FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonClay Roscoe (26) and Megan T. Piper (25) traveled down from Montana on July 30 and spent the night in the Bridger Teton National Forest at Station Creek, located in ...
El Mocho, Little Big Wall. We left our equipment at the foot of Media Luna, in front of El Mocho, in preparation for our attempt on Cerro Torre. Thanks to all the strong mental training for our first expedition, we took our stuff and put everythin...
The Stettner Way: The Life and Climbs of Joe and Paul Stettner. Jack Gorby. Golden: Colorado Mountain Club Press, 2003. 210 pages. Paperback. $14.95.When I opened this book and began reading a description of the authors visit to Joe Stettner’s hom...
Our initial plan was to explore valleys and the previously unattempted mountains in the Xiangqiuqieke Massif. In particular we wanted to try the second highest summit, 5,867m Xiangqiuqieke (the highest, an unnamed peak of 5,870m, lies near...
Bolivia, 1980-1981. There was a lot of trash this year. Fifty large parties climbed out of the Tuni Condoriri valley and Huayna Potosí and Illimani had such herds on them that their normal routes became trenches, fine lines dotted with rubbish, zi...
Bruce Anderson and I climbed this route, The Chimney (IV 5.10+, 8 pitches), in a one-day push in mid-summer 1993. The route, on the north side of the creek, lies on the largest, most prominent buttress in the first three miles of the canyon. This ...
West Sichuan Highland, an exploratory visit and first ascent of Peak 5,160m. On the advice of Tamotsu Nakamura, a party from the Yamanashi Mountaineering Federation visited the unknown mountains of South Kham, Sichuan, from October 1 to 16. The ar...
Shisha Pangma in the Pre-Monsoon, Mostly to the Lower Central Summit. Only one climber, German Jakob Kirschmer, reached the highest summit (8027 meters, 26,336 feet) of Shisha Pangma this spring. All others climbed to the slightly lower central su...
EMILY YOUNG O' BRIEN1866 - 1945Emily Young O’Brien was horn in Lisbon, N. H., October 28, 1866, and as a girl early acquired a love for the mountains and forests of northern New England. She graduated from Boston University in 1891, as valedictori...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Two members of the successful Italian expedition on the South face suffered frostbitten feet. Further details are not available.Safety Committee, American Alpine Club, 1961Benjamin G. Ferris, Jr., Chairman Weston, Massachuset...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Colorado, Longs PeakGary Quinn, an employee of the Tahusa Boy Scout Camp, was the designated “guide” of a group of scouts who were involved in a clim...
Bawangshan (5,551m), Susunshan (5,183m), first ascents. Our expedition went in commemoration of the 10th anniversary of the Japanese Alpine Club, Hiroshima Section. Though Bawangshan belongs to the Qonglai Mountains, the area surrounding this peak...
FALLING ROCK-CRUSHED HANDCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Sea of DreamsMy name is Robert. I am a 24 year old Austrian. On April 12, I started soloing the Sea of Dreams on El Capitan. The climbing was excellent—demanding but not dangerous. ...
What Can Belong to Patagonia ClimbingSilvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Andino Italiano*PATAGONIAN WINTER SKI-MOUNTAINEERING has its difficulties and its charms. Now winter is ending and the first spring storms are wafting into the lonely valleys. We...
Utah Desert Climbing. River Road Area: This is a local name for the section of State Highway 128 that follows the Colorado River east from US 191 at the Colorado River Bridge in Moab. Rick’s Rotten Ramp. Rick Norman, Mike Meyer, Brett Maurer and C...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Banff National Park, Cascade MountainOn August 30, N.P. (16), C.B. (18) and J.P. (17) left Calgary in the afternoon and drove to Banff to the base of Cascade Mountain. The three left their vehicle and started scr...
Shivling, South Buttress. From September 27 to October 18 Karl Kosa, Ernst Machacek, Robert Glatter, Michael Fasan, Peter Hanzlik and I as leader were on the south buttress of Shivling. We got to the top of the buttress but could not reach the sum...
Central Rockies Section. For the third consecutive year, the Section sponsored and helped fund the Waterfall Ice Roundup in Cody, Wyoming, on February 18-20. Some 50-60 climbers from five states traveled to Cody to attend this event, which is also...
GENE MASON1928-1993Gene Mason loved life, never seemed to stop finding it exciting. The last letter I had from him was from Africa, and it began with the phrase “I've taken my new heart to Africa.” It was his last trip there. He was working again ...
Central Rockies Section. The year started out with a bang in January, when the Central Rockies Section sponsored the 13th Annual Ouray Ice Festival. We provided a station and the CRS Tent, a volunteer staff, and swag. Our members Ryan McCombs, Chr...