Early Chapters in the History oe Mt. McKinleyThe great explorer-navigator George Vancouver in 1794 sailed up Cook’s Inlet and saw “stupendous snow mountains covered with snow and apparently detached from each other.” This is the first written reco...
This is the twenty-first report of the Safety Committee and the eighth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. Data from accidents that occurred in former years and not previously reported have been incorporated in the statistical table.Att...
The Western Rib of Mount McKinley’s South Face*William J. BuckinghamThe little red and yellow airplane disappeared around a bend of the Kahiltna Glacier for the last time. As the hum of its motor faded and the deep silence of the mountains settled...
To the Peaks of ElzivirJ. Monroe Thorington“I love to lose myself in other men’s minds. When I am not walking, I am reading ; I cannot sit and think. Books think for me.”—Charles Lamb.LIKE the Alpines of Tarascon my bookshelves are neither very di...
Mt. Cheam, northwest face. Mt. Cheam, at the north end of the Cheam Range, rises 2,100m above the Fraser River. Its north face was first climbed in the 1970s as a summer route, and Cheam became semipopular for winter climbing in the 1980s. In 1987...
Liberty Bell and South Early Winter Spire. On August 16 and 17, Keith Hertel and I completed the first free ascent of the Independence Route. During the summer of 1990, with Bruce Anderson we had climbed the first six pitches, which were enjoyable...
On Friday June 18, after deejaying the Test of Metal blockparty in Squamish, I hopped in my truck and drove ten hours through the night to meet JR in the Robson parking lot. Earlier in the year I’d pulled a tendon pulley in my middle finger, and ...
Angel Wings, South Face, “Hell on Wings.” In July, Richard Leversee, Kim Grandfield and I climbed this route, located on the same pillar as the Rowell- Jones route. It follows a bold crack system just left of the aforementioned route and consists ...
Sixty-First Annual Report of the American Alpine ClubThis is the sixty-first issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering. At the time of publication, narratives and data from Canada were not available. However, one report was sent forward ...
Tasermiut Fjord, Ulamertorssuaq and Ketil, first ascents. Eight young French climbers on their first expedition were in the area from the end of June to early August. Jérôme Masoundabe, Benoît Montfort, Magali Salle and Rémy Sifilio, all from the ...
Pukarashta Group and Pukahirca Sur and Tragedy. Above an Alpamayo Base Camp in the Arhueikocha Quebrada is the long Pukahirka-Pukarashta ridge, which had remained untouched from the south until a British team climbed five lines on it in June. Aust...
An Ascent of Mt. Albert EdwardRichard ArchboldWE arrived at Port Moresby, the capital of Papua, in the beginning of February, 1933. Papua is the southeast section of New Guinea, being owned by Australia. We spent a couple of months getting house-b...
Northern and Central Cordillera Real, various new routes. Nick Flyvbjerg (New Zealand) and Erik Monasterio spent six weeks exploring the central and northern Real. They first visited the Chekapa (Chikapa) Valley, east of the Negruni and north of t...
Ascents in the Cascades. In the spring of 1957 we completed some interesting new routes. On the sheer face of Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon, which rises several hundred feet above the main highway near Leavenworth, Washington, Fred Beckey, John R...
JOHN M. WATERMAN 1952-1981In April John disappeared while attempting a solo climb of the east buttress of Mount McKinley. Crevasses were common on the route, and other climbers reported a period of frequent avalanches.John was a climber of great n...
Yosemite Climbing, 1991-1993. Some climbs done in past years were not lecorded and so this reflects not only climbs in 1993 but some earlier ones. Eric Kohl, who has never publicized any of his climbs, recently reported to Mountain Review the best...
Istor-O-Nal, Northeast Summit, Attempt. Ten members of the Neuchatel Section of the Swiss Alpine Club attempted the unclimbed northeast summit (7276m) of Istor-O-Nal from the north. The only known previous attempt on this mountain was made by a Ja...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, North CascadesOn June 22,1986, Bob Richards (36) and I (36) had just climbed the West Ridge of Triad and were descending. We were off the pinnacle and could have descended a long easy route back to the hig...
Opportunities on Mount McKinleyBradford WashburnThere Are few pastimes more interesting to a desk-bound mountaineer than studying maps and pictures in search of new routes—even if it is evident that the chances are very low of trying any of them y...
Everest Post-Monsoon Attempt. The members of a French expedition to Everest were Jean-Franck Charlet, leader, René Ghilini, Jacques Fouques, Guy Abert, Michel Flouret and Bruno Gouvy. They attempted to climb the south buttress but could reach only...