Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

FALL ON SNOW-BACK COUNTRY SKIING, TRAVELING ALONEWyoming, Grand Teton National ParkOn April 11, Vito Seskunas (53) obtained a backcountry permit at the Moose Visitor Center for a five day ski trip to Death Canyon. He parked at the winter trailhead...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Other Ranges, Peruvian Ascents

Peruvian Ascents. H. Arbaiza, R. Carrascal and M. Cadillo of the Club Cordillera Huayhuash of Chiquián made the first ascent of Pampash (17,503 feet) on November 5. E. Leon, F. Diaz, R. Orrego, H. Tanaka and M. Canessa climbed Rajuntay Oeste (18,0...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Mustagh Ata

Mustagh Ata. Our group of eleven rode with jeep and truck south from Kashgar. On July 4 we reached a Kirghiz settlement, Jambukuk, at 12,500 feet, west of Mustagh Ata. Five camels carried our loads to 14,750 feet below the Chal Tumak Glacier on Ju...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru–Cordillera Blanca, Huantsán Attempt on East Ridge

Huantsán, Attempt on East Ridge. Jeffrey Duenwald, Andrew Harvard, Del Langbauer, James Janney, Paul and Chela Kunasz, my wife Nola and I left Olleros on July 21 and trekked for three days along an ancient Inca road over 15,700-foot Punta Yanashal...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Angel Peak

Angel Peak. In January, Paul Fehlau and I attempted a new route on the unclimbed south face of Angel Peak. The rock was softer than any I had played on in the desert. I knocked so much loose material on Paul that we abandoned the attempt. We then ...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Deep South Section

La Ramada Range, Rio Colorado Valley, ascents. La Ramada is a remote, little-visited range in Argentina, 200km northwest of Mendoza, without a precise map. With Argentine climbers, I’ve climbed in this area, specifically the Rio Colorado Valley, t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kang Guru, Winter Attempt

Kang Guru, Winter Attempt. A British-Australian team led by Michael Chapman was unsuccessful on Kang Guru, but they got close. Their high point was 6800 meters. They climbed the west face to the west ridge.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mount Thor, Southeast Face

Mount Thor, Southeast Face. A new route, using the prominent dihedral bearing toward the east summit crest, was done on May 19 by Leland Davis, Mike McGoey, and me. The key pitches were the second one in the dihedral, and the final one on the head...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Idaho, He Devil Peak, East Ridge, Seven Devils Mountains

He Devil Peak, East Ridge, Seven Devils Mountains. On July 24,I climbed He Devil Peak by following the crest of the east ridge from the He Devil-She Devil col to the summit of He Devil. Three short fourth-class chimneys were encountered, the last ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Solo, No Hard Hat, Quebec, Charlevoix Mountains, Mont du Gros Bras

FALL ON ROCK, COMBING SOLO, NO HARD HAT Quebec, Charlevoix Mountains, Mont du Gros BrasOn September 3, 1989, at 1645, Alain S. (29) was climbing solo on Hallunbeinbrunch, a difficult 300-meter route. He was wearing a harness with some hardware, bu...


Notes AAJ
The Adaman Club

The Adaman Club of Denver and Colorado Springs continue their custom of ascending Pikes Peak (14,110 feet) every New Year’s Eve. Several members of The American Alpine Club are members.A small group of members of the Colorado Mountain Club have or...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Jogin I and III Ascents; P 6529 Attempt

Jogin I and III Ascents; P 6529 Attempt. A 19-man expedition of the London Metropolitan Police and Scotland Yard was led by Superintendent John Peck; the climbing leader was Lew Hardy. On September 6, 8, and 10, Jogin I (6465 meters, 21,210 feet) ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchung, 1989

Kangchung, 1989. In April and May, 1989, Caroline Albright, David Kennison, Paul Gardner, Donald Cook, Bob Chereck, John Landers, David Landers and I made several climbs in the Everest region. A warm-up climb was made to the highest point of P 548...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Hiunchuli Patan

Hiunchuli Patan. Our party consisted of Roger Breakall, J. Darling, J. Gostling and me. We arrived in the vicinity of Hiunchuli Patan (28° 55'N, 82° 40'E) on September 30 but it took us two weeks to force a way through a trackless bamboo forest an...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

Nevado Anucara and Other Peaks, Northern Andes, 1993. In August, 1993, at the height of the southern winter, climbers from Valparaíso traveled to northernmost Chile. A military truck took them to Base Camp in the hamlet of Caquena at the northern ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma Ascent and Tragedy

Shisha Pangma Ascent and Tragedy. A 14-man Spanish Army expedition, led by Major Francisco Soria, also included several civilians. They were the only group to reach the main summit of Shisha Pangma (8027 meters, 26,336 feet) in the post-monsoon se...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mazamas

The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee guides comprehensive mountaineering education from beginning through advanced levels; organizes summer, winter, and rock climbing schedules; selects and trains new climb leaders; and promotes safety in all Mazam...


Book Reviews AAJ
Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue

Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue. Andy Selters. Illustrations by Jennifer Hahn. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1990. 154 pages, 60 illustrations, 5 black-and-white photographs. Paperback. $12.95.This clearly-written and well-illustrated little textb...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Siguniang (6,250m), South Face, The Free Spirits Asia, China, Qonglai Shan, Siguniang National Park

From November 23 to 27 Zhou Peng and I climbed the central south face of Siguniang (a.k.a. Yaomei Feng), the main peak of Siguniang Shan (Four Girls Mountains). In December 2008 the Chinese Ultimate Expedition attempted this line using fixed r...

| Published 2009 | Author Yan Dongdong


Book Reviews AAJ
Driftwood Valley

Driftwood Valley, by Theodora C. Stanwell-Fletcher. 369 pages and 15 page appendix; illustrated. Boston: Little, Brown & Co., 1946. $4.00.An account of two whole years in a cabin some hundred miles northeast of Hazleton, B. C., Driftwood Valle...