Bell Mountain, Hell's Bells. Brian Wood and I took advantage of a cold spell in early June, 2002, to establish Hell’s Bells (1,100 feet) on the northwest face of Bell Mountain in the Lemhi Range. The northwest face is cut by two large gully system...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 29, 1981, Les Ellison (30) was free climbing the New Dawn Route on El Capitan when he pulled a rock loose. There had been no indication that it might be insecure. The rock hit his thigh and cause...
Bharte Khunte and Kedarnath Dome. A 31-man Indian Air Force team was led by Squadron Leader V.P. Singh. On April 26 Base Camp was set up at Tapoban at 14,300 feet and Advanced Base at 15,000 feet on the Kirti Glacier. There they parted into variou...
The Brown Cliffs, Wind River Range. A new approach to this relatively unknown climbing area was proved feasible the first week of July when Bill Eubank, Chris, his 12 year old son, Jim Petroske, Carl Plassmann and I pushed through knee-deep snow f...
Api, South Face Attempt. Our 12-man (British) Army Mountaineering Association expedition was driven from Kathmandu to Dandeldhura. The new mountain road from Dangadhi to Dandeldhura is easily passable by jeep; a jeep track from Dandeldhura to Bait...
Langille Peak, East Buttress. Langille Peak, far up the middle fork of the Kings River, is known more to hikers of the John Muir Trail than to climbers. Its eastern face is hollowed by several deep gullies and highlighted by many long spur ridges....
Fitz Roy. Scott Backes and I climbed Fitz Roy by the American Route. We arrived in Base Camp on January 2. After 42 days and four unsuccessful attempts we climbed the route in 2½ days from Base Camp. We reached the summit at three P.M. on February...
Ronti. A ladies’ expedition to Ronti (19,893 feet) was organized at my residence and my wife, Mrs. Sujaya Guha, accompanied the team as manager. The other members were Misses Deepali Sinha, leader, Sudipta Sen Gupta, Lakshmi Pal, Swapna Nandy, Swa...
Manaslu Attempt. A South Korean expedition was led by Kim Ho Sup. They attempted the northeast side, by which the Japanese had made the first ascent in 1956. As the leader, his brother Kim Ki Sup and three Sherpas were making a summit attempt, Kim...
Guan Nelda I and II. An Indian expedition led by Bishnu Prasad Roy in August climbed Guan Nelda I (6303 meters, 20,680 feet) and Guan Nelda II (6157 meters, 20,200 feet). The summits were reached by B. Banerjee and S. Biswas and two high-altitude ...
Staunings Alps. The Cambridge Staunings Expedition consisted of K.J. Miller, leader, A.W. Billinghurst, E.W. Smith and me. We arrived in Greenland on July 9, at Mesters Vig airstrip via Reykjavik in Iceland. The approach to the heart of the Stauni...
Cerro Punta Negra, South Face, 1990. On December 9, 1990, Christian Buracchio and I climbed the beautiful ice couloir at the right side of the south face to the summit ridge and summit (4090 meters, 13,419 feet). The good ice was angled at 45° to ...
Shani, Naltar Valley. Guy Muhlemann and I, members of our Scots expedition, on August 14 reached the summit of Shani (5800 meters, 19,029 feet), near Gilgit, in the Karakoram. Base Camp was situated at 3750 meters below the east side of the mounta...
Colorado—North face of ridge between Twin Thumbs and Peak 11, Needle Mountains: On 26 July 1953, Barry Bishop (21), Walt Bailey (35), and Phyllis Anderson (25) were returning from a successful ascent of theTwin Thumbs. At about 4:30 p.m. they set ...
Canyonlands National Park, Island in the Sky District. In October, Jon Burnham and Bill Duncan climbed Chortler’s Joy (II, 5.9, Al, 3 pitches) on Candlestick Spire by first the west and then the north face. Jim Bodenhamer and Al Torrisi made the f...
Lone Pine Peak, South Face, Land of Little Rain. As you sit by the Stone House, an old building at the end of Tuttle Creek trail, the south face of Lone Pine Peak looms above you. This mile-wide and 3,000-foot-high wall is one of many great Sierra...
CB 13. This peak (6264 meters, 20,550 feet) was climbed by its north ridge on August 18 by T. Itsumi, T. Yairi and two high-altitude porters. The other member was leader Yukio Matsukuma.
Kamet and Abi Gamin. This massif is the goal each year of a number of Indian expeditions trying the normal route. In 1992, Kamet and Abi Gamin were the objectives of at least five parties. One is described below. A group from Durgapur led by Swapa...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNew Hampshire, Rumney Cliff, Holderness School CrackOn July 3, I was leading Holderness School Crack, which I have climbed at least 20 times and led (in fact I led it before the accident). I scrambled onto the le...
Canada: Many thanks to Rod Plasman for compiling last year’s accident information.The number of accidents that occurred in 1999 was average in comparison to previous years. There was a noticeable increase in the number of accidents that occurred w...