Shipton Spire, Women and Chalk, first ascent. Italians Mauro “Bubu” Bole, Mario Cortese, and photographer, Fabio Dandri, put up the impressive all-free Women And Chalk on the South East Face roughly mid-way between Inshallah and the line of the 19...
Gyachung Kang Attempt. Nine Britons, most of them in the army, and nine Nepalese, including two Gurkhas, were led by Major Roger Antolik. They were unable to get higher than 7100 meters on the lower part of the west face, where they had hoped to p...
The Picture of Everest, by Alfred Gregory. 43 pages of colored illustrations with brief explanatory text. Great Britain: Hodder and Stoughton, 1954.Since the recent improvements in photography and the reproduction of photographs, it has become cus...
P 20,430, Kanjiroba Himal. The Kitasato University Expedition was composed of Kazuo Yago, Mitsuhiro Kikuchi, Eiken Moriyama, Hiromi Ichikawa, Morihiro Takechi and me as leader. We flew to Jumla on September 6, leaving there on the 9th. We traveled...
Cerro Huiluco, Quimsa Cruz. Because of icy winds and snow during the “dry” Bolivian winter, traveling alone from mid June to early July, I was only able to make the second ascent of Chiar Huyo on July 2 and the first ascent of Cerro Huiluco on Jul...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL FAILURE/ERROR, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTNorth Carolina, Paint RockPaint rock (also known as Graffiti Rock), a popular roadside rappelling and training site in Pisgah National Forest was the scene of a rappelling accident on August ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—GLISSADE, NO ICE AXE, INEXPERIENCE Oregon, Mount HoodOn June 9,1993, Gary Whalen told me that he and his companion were glissading down from the Hogsback when suddenly his friend went over a large cliff and tumbled down about 200 f...
Shisha Pangma Central Summit and Cho Oyu. Our expedition left Kathmandu on August 29, hoping to climb both peaks by the normal routes and to film the ascents for Spanish television. We were Juanjo San Sebastián, Antonio Trabado, Ramón Portilla, At...
Changsanglamu. Changsanglamu (6324 meters, 20,748 feet) rises south of the Shigatse-Lhasa road between Kado La and Langkarzu. A beautiful lake lies 40 minutes above Base Camp. Legend tells us that formerly the lake was very muddy, but the goddess ...
Miyar Valley, various ascents. Thanks to good preparation, a few spells of good weather, and staying healthy throughout the expedition, Ines Peschel and I made seven ascents in the Miyar, which we visited from mid-August till the end of September....
Wheeler Crest, 1980. A number of fine routes were done in this area near Bishop in 1980. In general, climbers were seeking out shorter, harder routes than in years past. The routes are listed south to north. 1. Soaring Eagle Tower, John Birch Soci...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Banff, Parker’s RidgeGraham Tretick and five companions were ski touring on Parker’s Ridge on 15 February 1977. The skies were clear and temperature about 0°C, and snow structure was surface hoar below settled snow with rounded g...
Mermoz, Attempt, and Fitz Roy, Ascent. In December, 1993, Kennan Harvey and I climbed about 1,500 feet up the east face of the Mermoz. Our route gains an obvious 400-foot crack on the orange prow in the center of the wall. We found stunning finger...
Emerald Star Mountain, Leaving Llamaland. From May 30-June 3, Amanda Tarr established the route Leaving Llamaland (V+ 5.7 A2+, 1,000') on Emerald Star Mountain, two buttresses right of the route Emerald Star Majesticus. A full account of her solo ...
Redakh Brakk, and Other Ascents. During the Haramosh II Expedition in 1995, we could not help noticing a prominent unknown mountain that dominated the view to the northeast looming up behind the ridge bounding the far end of the Sgari Byen Gang Gl...
Hidden Peak. An 11-man Japanese expedition led by Masahiro Maezawa climbed Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) by its first-ascent route on the southeast ridge. After reconnaissance, they left the mountain for nine days in early July to assist in the rescu...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainOn May 27,1986, two climbers were ascending Lien’s Layback, a four-pitch rock route rated 5.7, near Banff townsite. The lead climber (25) had rea...
The California Mountaineering Club. With the last issue of our newsletter, the California Mountaineering Club entered its eighth year. Membership this year exceeded the 300 mark. This year saw the tragic death of our president, R. Dave Dykeman, wh...
Himalchuli North. Just five days after the South Koreans put a team on top of this virgin peak, two Poles made the second ascent. Zdzislaw Jakubowski and Jerzy Klincewicz went to the top on November 1 from their bivouac at 6600 meters. The expedit...
Trisul I, Attempt. Three years after a previous attempt, Iñaki Ruiz, Jesus Gómez and I returned to try Trisul I again. Our climbing style was simple: alpine-style, no fixed ropes, three high camps and two altitude tents for those three camps.We ar...