FALL ON SNOW, LOSS OF CONTROL–VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWyoming, TetonsOn August 16, Clint Farbow (20), Ted Garner (20), and Joe Bossong (20) were descending from an unsuccessful climb of the Southwest Couloir of the Middle Teton. Farbow was glissading do...
Mischief among the Penguins, by H. W. Tilman. London: Rupert Hart- Davis, 1961. 192 pages. Price 21s.This is primarily the tale of an eleven months’ voyage to the Southern Ocean by six men in a 45-foot sail boat. The objective of this saga is moun...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE, DEHYDRATIONUtah, Zion National ParkOn August 4, 1985, a man (37) left his car and began hiking upstream in the Virgin River Narrows. He carried 15 meters of nylon clothesline, a hatchet, some steel ten...
Mustagh Ata. Englishman Norman Croucher was a member of a Mountain Travel expedition to Mustagh Ata led by John Cleare. Croucher reached the summit on two artificial legs.
Quebrada Ulta. An Italian expedition led by Giuseppe Dionisi had a very frustrating time. Their objectives were already being climbed by expeditions that had got into the field ahead of them. Expedition members fell ill and the weather was the wor...
The Alpine Club of Canada has local sections in all the principal cities of the country. Many of these sections conduct mountain training schools, each of which distributes to every member a booklet entitled “Safe Climbing” (published by the Tarar...
Obelisk, West Face. The west face of the Obelisk is a spectacular, orange-colored, knobby wall. On the right side of this face is the only major weakness, a continuous chimney system, which is probably Beckey’s orignal route. About 40 feet left is...
Washington, Mt. Rainier. On 23 June Ray Smutek (31), Patrick Chamay (31), Ian Wade (22) and David Hambly (28), were climbing Mt. Rainier. At about the 13,000 foot level Chamay apparently developed pulmonary edema and died before he could be evacua...
La Ramada is a remote, little-visited range in Argentina, 200km northwest of Mendoza, without a precise map. With Argentine climbers, I’ve climbed in this area, specifically the Rio Colorado Valley, three times. Access involves a four-hour drive...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEDColorado, Longs Peak, Lamb's SlideOn August 19, Ben Cort (age unknown) was climbing Lamb’s Slide with two friends. When Cort was at the top, he lost his footing and fell some 800 feet. “The next thing y...
Kang Guru, West Face. Our members were Yang Yong-Deok, Park Hee-dong and I as leader. We approached via the Kang La with 15 porters because the normal route via Chame and Meta was threatened by landslides in the monsoon. We established Base Camp a...
Horse Creek Tower. This surprising monolith is on the lower scarp of Sawtooth Ridge, in full view of Twin Lakes, but it had not been climbed. The route on the south face included some challenging climbing, both free and aid. Leland Davis, Mike McG...
New Routes in New Mexico, 1991-3. In January, 1993,I made several new ice climbs around Questa, New Mexico. Luke Laeser, Mike Lyons and I climbed Eskimo Pie (II, WI4+/5, A0; 3 pitches), one of the finest ice routes in the state. It rises above Hig...
Moditse or Annapurna South. An expedition from Chiba Institute of Technology was led by Dr. Tomoyo Minegishi. They attempted the north (“Sanctuary”) side and east ridge. From Camp IV at 20,675 feet on October 15 they got to 21,325 feet. After bein...
FALL ON ROCK, CHOCKS PULLED OUT Quebec, Gatineau Park EscarpmentOn May 14, 1989, Henry Marsden (25) was leading a 5.10b route up a thin crack in the ’Ron and John’ cliff. The lead was protected by five wired chocks: R.P.s and taper locks. At the t...
A winter ascent of Longs Peak was made on New Year’s Day, 1929, by Jess L. Fults, A. L. Richey and Leo Sisler and also another about the same time in 1930, by Fults. After the first climb the climbers were compelled to spend several days in the ca...
Spedizioni d’Alpinismo in Groenlandia, by Guido Monzino. Verona: Mondadori, 1966. 424 pages, 276 plates (42 in color), 30 maps, 9 sketches. This book is a photographic record of fine mountaineering expeditions to Greenland from 1961 to 1964 by 30 ...
Chandra Parbat. Our team established Base Camp at Vasuki Tal at 16,075 feet on September 17 and Advance Base at 16,800 feet after crossing the Sundar Bamak on September 19. Bikash Chandra Sayal, Miss Ila Mondal and I established Camp I at 18,700 f...
Cerro Torre, The Long Run; and Cerro Standhardt, Extreme Emotions. On Janurary 3, 2006, Stephen Koch and I went to Chalten and the next day to the Agostini/Bridwell Base Camp at Laguna Torre. The weather was unstable, as described in many Patagoni...
Biale Attempt. Our expedition comprised Mark Miller, Sean Smith, Simon Yates, Nick Groves, Maryrose Fowlie, liaison officer Naveed Gaznavi and me. We hoped to climb Biale (6730 meters, 22,080 feet) from the south, approaching from the Baltoro Glac...