Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Sikkim, Frey Peak

Frey Peak. All nine members and two Sherpa instructors of the 35th Advance Course of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling climbed Frey Peak (19,500 feet) on September 26.KAMAL K. Guha, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Mountains, Amin Brakk, West Face, Attempt

Amin Brakk, West Face, Attempt. The team members of the Korean Alpine Club Amin Brakk Expedition were Young Soon Hwang, Jung Ho Bang, Dong Chul Shin, Myoung Rae Kim and Ihn Soo Park. The team departed Seoul May 22 and established Base Camp at 4200...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Bhagirathi II

Bhagirathi II. A team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police climbed this peak on June 15, after setting up two camps. The members were N.C. Tripathi, Sohan Lal, L.P. Semwal, Marain Singh, Tej Bahadur Gurung, Nim Putar, Ang Putar, Puran Singh and Kun...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Northern Andes, Puna de Atacama, Peaks 5376m and 6070m, Veladero, Bonete, Reclus

Puna de Atacama, Peaks 5376m and 6070m, Veladero, Bonete, Reclus. On the high-altitude plateau of the Puna de Atacama, in November 2000, Britain John Biggar led a group (Brits G. Biggar, P. Clarke, P. Gilbert, and B. Powling and Peruvian D. Aureli...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori

Pumori. A Japanese expedition of the Fujiomiya Alpine Club was led by Miyoshi Mochizuki. They attempted the very steep rock and ice south face of Pumori (23,442 feet). On April 19 Osamu Matsumura, Saburo Kato and Kenichi Shinohara reconnoitered fo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Ala Norte, Condoriri, West Ridge, Cordillera Real

Ala Norte, Condoriri, West Ridge, Cordillera Real. Beautiful Condoriri’s two outspread wings give the image of a great bird in flight. The wings are separate from Condoriri itself. We climbed the Ala Norte (North Wing), which actually lies rather ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Himachal Pradesh, CB54

CB54. Our expedition, comprising my wife Lizzie, my brother Peter, Adam Brown, Jim Shilling and me, set out on August 22. Brown and I were the climbers, the other working in support. Our aim was to make the first ascent of CB54 and then travel 30 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Apostelens Tommelfinger Attempt

Apostelens Tommelfinger Attempt. A scientific-climbing expedition of the Trieste section of the CAI was led by Franco de Fachinetti and composed of Antonio Alberti, Tullio Piemontese, Giorgio Carpani, Giodo Cortese, Gino Comelli, Roberto Ive, Gior...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile—Central Andes, Torre San Andrès, Torres del Brujo Range, 1991

Torre San Andrés, Torres del Brujo Range, 1991. Chileans Waldo Farías and Christián Heitmann climbed the spectacular Torre San Andrés (3050 meters, 10,007 feet) in the first half of February of 1991, reaching the summit on February 10. The granite...


Accident Reports ANAM
Failure of Rappel Setup (Protection Pulled Out), Inadequate Equipment, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park

FAILURE OF RAPPEL SETUP (PROTECTION PULLED OUT),INADEQUATE EQUPMENT Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn May 7, 1989, Robert Johnston (30) was attempting to lead Conan’s Gonads, a 5.9 crack climb on Twin Owls Crag. After 12 meters of rock clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Diran Attempt and Tragedy

Diran Attempt and Tragedy. Seven Japanese led by Y. Yaezu had hoped to climb Diran (7257 meters, 23,810 feet) by its north ridge. On July 20 R. Iida disappeared between the 5000-meter col on the north ridge and 5400-meter Camp III. The expedition ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park (1)

Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park (2)—Little Matterhorn: On 31 July 1953, a party of nine girls was ascending the Little Matterhorn. This organized group had almost reached the summit when Miss Kathryn Rees (15) became startled at the movement...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, River Road Area

River Road Area. During Jeff Lowe’s honeymoon with Teri Ebel, they established a new route, a hard, wide crack 200 feet left of Artist’s Tears, three miles up River Road from Moab. It ascends 30 feet of aid (climbed years ago by an unknown party) ...


In Memoriam ANAM
Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Olympus

Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Olympus. On the morning of 2 July Hartmut von Gaza (23) and Athol Abrahams (26) were ascending the N.W. ridge of Mt. Olympus (9,800 feet) at the head of Fryatt Creek. After mixed fourth and fifth class climbing, they...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sequoia National Park, Hamilton Dome, Before the Jury

Sequoia National Park, Hamilton Dome, Before The Jury. When you sit on the deck at the Bearpaw Meadows High Sierra Camp and look east toward Angel Wings and Valhalla, you look directly at the beautiful glaciated west face of Hamilton Dome. Dave Ne...


In Memoriam AAJ
His Majesty Albert I - King of the Belgians, 1875-1934

HIS MAJESTY ALBERT I—KING OF THE BELGIANS1875-1934Few men in high places have left so great a mark in the world through uprightness of character, zeal for country’s welfare, and bravery in the face of great odds as did His Majesty Albert I, King o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Lampak II (6181 m), Ascent

Lampak II (6181m), ascent. All seven members of an Indian expedition led by Swaraj Ghosh made the probable third ascent of this peak between the Siruanch and Kalla Glaciers above the road head at Malari. Base camp was established on August 29 at 4...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Dharamsura, Kulu

Dharamsura, Kulu. A 15-member Indian expedition was led by Swapan Kumar Ghosh. They made several attempts to get to the summit of Dharamsura (also known as White Sail; 6445 meters, 21,145 feet). Finally with only two days left to them, Sher Singh ...


Accident Reports AAJ
Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, Maiktoli Tragedy

Maiktoli Tragedy. An Indian expedition led by Ram Chandra Bharadwaj was mostly inexperienced and badly equipped. They set up Base Camp on the Sundardunga Glacier on September 7. After a long period of bad weather, Ratan Singh Bisht left Advance Ba...


Book Reviews AAJ
La Meiji

La Meije, by Henri Isselin. Collection Sempervivum. Paris and Grenoble: Arthaud, 1956. 262 pages; ills.Henri Isselin, whose "Barre des Ecrins" was reviewed in AAJ, 1955, has now turned his attention to the Meije. He has given us an equally complet...