Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park (2)—Little Matterhorn

Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park (2)—Little Matterhorn: On 31 July 1953, a party of nine girls was ascending the Little Matterhorn. This organized group had almost reached the summit when Miss Kathryn Rees (15) became startled at the movement...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, New Routes in Canyonlands National Park, Island in the Sky District, 1992-3

New Routes in Canyonlands National Park, Island in the Sky District, 1992-3. I made the following new routes. In February, 1992, David Lindy and I climbed Thracian Mare, a curving seam on the narrow west face (III, 5.8, A3+); this is in Taylor Can...


In Memoriam ANAM
British Columbia, Northern Selkirks, Mt. Colossal

British Columbia, Northern Selkirks, Mt. Colossal. On 19 July Margaret Bland (30) and Al Ramanauskas (29), participants in an Appalachian Mountain Club Climbing Camp organized by the New York Chapter Mountaineering Committee, and Donald Sprecker (...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Gorge of Despair, Silver Turret, Desperadoes

Gorge Of Despair, Silver Turret, Desperadoes. I started Desperadoes (III 5.12a) with Guy Keesee in 1993. We returned for another attempt in 1995, but Guy suffered a knee injury on the third pitch and we were forced to retreat again. In July, 1996,...


In Memoriam AAJ
Douglas William Freshfield, 1845-1934

DOUGLAS WILLIAM FRESHFIELD1845-1934In the death of Douglas W. Freshfield, at Forest Row, Sussex, on February 9th, at the age of eighty-nine years, the Alpine world loses one of its most characteristic figures, and a man whose career was synonymous...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Siruanch Glacier, Shambhu Ka Qilla, First Ascent

Siruanch Glacier, Shambhu Ka Qilla, first ascent. On May 16 six members of a British expedition, Roland Arnison, Angela Benham, Chris Drinkwater, Titch Kavanagh, Andy Phillips, and myself (leader) made the first ascent of a previously unnamed peak...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Dharamsura  

Dharamsura. On June 29, leader Captain Adrian Phillips and Captain A. Ibbotson of the British Army and Indian Chamanlal reached the summit of Dharamsura.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, Trisul Attempt

Trisul Attempt. American Arthur B. Ferguson led Griff Smith and Robert Wade to the west face of Trisul (7120 meters, 23,360 feet). They established Base Camp on June 14 and Advance Base on June 20, but the weather in June continued bad and they co...


Book Reviews AAJ
Alps and Elephants

Alps and Elephants, by Gavin de Beers. London: Geoffrey Bles, 1955. 89 pages; appendices and references; map. Price 10 s 6 d.Gavin de Beers’ very readable re-examination of Hannibal’s route across the Alps begins by testing the original narratives...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, More Information on the Ascent of Mount Vaughan

More Information on the Ascent of Mount Vaughan. In addition to the people named above, the party was also composed of Alejo Contreras Staeding, Robert Hart, Larry Engel and Peter Miller both from the National Geographic, Barry Berkus and me. Thre...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1988, with membership remaining at 1100. Over 1700 people participated in one of the many instructional courses, mountaineering camps, or foreign expeditions that were from one to four w...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding Abilities New Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, Intimidation

On May 21, Craig Johnson (26) was at the crux move on Intimidation (5.10) trying to place protection, but could not. So he “went for it.” He made the crux and was about to put in protection when he slipped off “polished, moist rock.” He fell 20 ...

| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam, Lagunak Ridge, Attempt

Ama Dablam, Lagunak Ridge, attempt. Between October 1 and November 2, Tina Di Batista and I were members of a Slovenian Jubilee expedition to Ama Dablam. The expedition was organized to honor the 30th anniversary of the first Slovenian ascent of a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Tennessee, Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Tennessee, Great Smoky Mountains National Park. On May 6, Charles Smith Sample (14) apparently attempted to climb a cliff above The Chimneys camp grounds. He apparently fell over 50 ft. and was dead when found.Source: Newspaper clipping.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Karavshin Region, Peak 4810, Northwest Face

Peak 4810, Northwest Face. It was reported that Viktor Komarov, Kostya Sakharov, Anatoli Vinokurov and Alexander Shcherbakov climbed the vertical to overhanging 1200-meter-plus Red Pillar on the northwest face of Peak 4810 in mid-July, 1994. Three...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina–Central Andes, Aconcogua, First Chilean Winter Ascent

Aconcagua, First Chilean Winter Ascent. From September 6 to 24 we made the first Chilean winter ascent of Aconcagua. We used skis from 3200 meters in the Horcones valley to the base of the Canaleta at 6800 meters. We climbed the north face, using ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Sikkim, Kangchenjunga Ascent and Tragedy

Kangchenjunga Ascent and Tragedy. A 62-member team from the Indian Army Assam Rifles, including three women, was led by Major General Prem Lal Kukrety. They left Gangtok on March 8, heading for the northeast face of Kangchenjunga, the route previo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Moro Rock, East Face, Sequoia National Park, "Piece de Renaissance"

Moro Rock, East Face, Sequoia National Park, “Pièce de Renaissance.” In mid April during a spell of clear weather, Jon Gatti, John Vargas and I completed this 9-pitch route just left of the climbs, Moro Oro and Full Metal Jacket. Fantastic face cl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru-Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Este, 1988

Huandoy Este, 1988. In May, 1988, Adrian Baker and I climbed a new route on the southeast face of Huandoy Este. This direct, 900-meter-high line to the summit had some truly frightening snow formations. We abseiled down the north face.Graham E. Li...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Switzerland, Monte Rosa

Kl. Doldenhorn. John St. Boalt, of Ohio, joined E. v. Fellen- berg and P. Gosset, of Bern, in an attempt on the Doldenhorn, May 27th, 1862, resulting in the first ascent ofthe lower W. peak. Their guides were Christian Lauener, Johann Bischof and ...