Broad Peak, Attempts and Tragedy. A Ukranian expedition was led by Vadim Sviridenko in memory of three companions who died on K2 in 1994. Only the foresummit was reached. This team, as well as a Canadian commercial group led by Nick Cienski, came ...
New Routes on the East Face of Longs Peak. Wayne Goss and I made the Stripped Wall route in August. Our route began fifty feet right of Stettner’s Ledges and more or less paralleled it to Broadway. The climbing was mostly mixed aid and free. The r...
Squamish Chief, Black Dike. Al Givler and I completed this climb in three weekends in February. We climbed on the first two weekends in the rain, fixing three ropes on the first five pitches, in a total of 18 hours of climbing. On the third weeken...
AVALANCHEYukon Territory, St. Elias Range, Mount St. EliasIn June 1981, a party of four American climbers, C. Campbell, Mach Ellerby, Ted Hand- werk and Jon Iltis, were attempting Mount St. Elias via the Newton Glacier-Russell Col route. At 11:00 ...
STRANDED—SOLO CLIMBING, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHING, WEATHERAlberta, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Mount Brock, Southwest FaceC.F., set out on July 2 around 1400 to do a solo, ropeless climb on Mount Brock, about 50 kilometer...
Mount Ghent Northeast and Other Peaks, Kondus Group. Our expedition celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Climbing Group of the Austrian Mountain Club Section of the Austrian Alpine Club. We were led by Bruno Klausbruckner and composed of Günther...
Sherpa Climbing Courses. 37 Sherpas received certificates upon completion of mountaineering safety and rescue courses taught by two Sherpas and the members of the Eastern Sierra Himalayan Expedition in September. They were conducted in the Dzongla...
Various Ranges, Various Activity. Luke Aspinall, Toby Johnson, John Marsham and I planned a three-month expedition to Bolivia, with the intention of climbing in the Cordilleras Apolobamba, Real and Quimsa Cruz. However, things very rarely go to pl...
Paradise Peak, Kenai Peninsula. Although my husband Vin had been attracted by Paradise Peak as early as 1961, it remained virgin until June. F. Cady, D. and H. Bludworth, D. Johnston, D. Hodaway, H. Van der Laan and I committed ourselves to the sw...
Kusum Kangguru and. Nuptse. A plan emerged to climb several peaks that would not only offer interesting climbing but would also enable the members to acclimatize sufficiently to tackle Everest in alpine style. Georges Bettembourg (French), Michael...
Khatang, Rolwaling Himal. This mountain was opened to climbers only in 1981 and we were the first to try it. We climbed the northeast ridge. We established the following camps: Base Camp at 15,700 feet on October 8 and Camps I, II and III at 17,82...
Dragons Spine, Apocryphal Arête. I went to Little Switzerland for the first two weeks of June. There Adam George, Ben Lamm, and I climbed the Dragon’s Spine. We climbed the south-facing slab to the left of the major dihedral that splits the wall. ...
Appalachian Mountain Club. The Mountaineering Committee of the AMC trained beginners in rock, snow, and ice climbing as well as training mountaineering and expedition leaders during 1968. In excess of 3000 man-hours of climbing were scheduled duri...
On April 12 Norwegians Nils Nielsen and Eiliv Ruud climbed a likely new six-pitch variation (AI4/5) of the modern classic Shaken Not Stirred, on the Moose’s Tooth. They took a rarely forming ice smear to the left of the Narrows section (marked “po...
Soviet Climbs in Asia, 1965. Reported in Bergkamerad was the ascent of the 8000-foot-high north face of Pik Mramornaja-Stena in the Tien Shan, that of the 6500-foot-high south face of the Pik Kommacademie in the Pamirs and the traverse of the 6000...
Mount Fay, East Face. In early March, after waiting for the sun to leave the east face of Mount Fay, Barry Blanchard, David Cheesmond and I began climbing, expecting to spend one night on the face. After gaining height quickly, at the top of the f...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PROBLEMS (3), HAND STUCK IN HOLDWisconsin, Baraboo State ParkFour reports came in from Baraboo State Park this year. All involved leader falls and three resulted in fractures. One resulted in a dislocation when th...
Mt. Olympus. From Camp Parker crossed Nigel Pass with packtrain and on second day passed warden’s cabin on Brazeau outlet stream, following Brazeau River to second creek coming in from N. Old trail on E. side of stream leads to high-level campgrou...
Liberty Cap called us back for another round after we added Scarface in 2010. Starting halfway out the traverse ledge, in a thin corner system rising through overhanging stone, the line eventually trends right and joins the West Buttress rou...
Urus Group, Ishinca, Ranrapalca Norte. The Swiss Arthur Schumacher, Paul Roth, Peter Lässer and Lilo Zimmermann with the Frenchman Serge Sarkissian climbed in June in the Cordillera Blanca. Roth and Schumacher made the first ascent of minor peaks ...