Mount Hunter. Arturo and Guido Giovanoli, Leo Hartmann, Jon Rudolf Bezzola and I tried to climb the north face of Mount Hunter, but we got hit by an avalanche at 9000 feet and so we gave it up. After climbing Mount Crosson by the east ridge on May...
Washington, Mount Baker. On May 20th Stephen Esses (age 22) died of exposure after spending a stormy night in a rudimentary snow cave near the summit of Mt. Baker. Esses, a University of Washington student, was one of fifteen student climbers in a...
Nun. Spanish Basques made the ascent of Nun by the northwest face. After establishing three high camps, leader Juan Manuel Sotillos, Juan Fernando Azcona, Josu Bereciartua and Amaya Aranzábal reached the top on July 19. A second summit attempt by ...
The Diagonal, East Face of Longs Peak. The “Diagonal” spans the east face of Longs Peak between Stettner’s Ledges and Craig’s Chimney. This smooth, vertical or overhanging face rises diagonally to an altitude of 13,200 feet. In 1958 George Lamb an...
FALL ON ROCK, HEAVY PACK Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleWhile five climbers were being evacuated higher on the mountain on August 1, 1994, a party of four began climbing the ‘Big Step’ on the East Ridge, as two ropes of two. The first rope ...
Nanga Parbat Attempts. There were several unsuccessful attempts on Nanga Parbat in 1991. Koreans led by Lee Dong-Won were unable to complete the climb via the 1962 German Diamir route. Italians under the leadership of Stefano Righetti reached a hi...
Cannon Mountain, YMC Dike. On September 17 John Reppy, Bob Crawford and I ascended the "YMC Dike,” adding a second NCCS IV to the list of Eastern climbs. (See also A.A.J., 1966, 15:1, p. 147.) In the middle of the face just left of the Conn Buttre...
Mamostong Kangi II. Our joint Indo-Austrian expedition of twelve made the first ascent of Mamostong Kangri II (7023 meters, 23,042 feet). The Austrian members were Reinhard Streif, Wolfgang Mörtl, Wolfgang Köblinger, Hans Kloimstein, Raimund Vielk...
Going Light with Backpack or Burro, edited by David R. Brower. Foreword by Newton B. Drury. Contributions by Lewis F. Clark, Elizabeth Cowles, Alex Hildebrand, Joel H. Hildebrand, Milton Hildebrand, Mildred Jentsch, H. Stewart Kimball, Louise H. K...
South Rawah Peak, Medicine Bow Mountains. While conducting a mountaineering survey for the U.S. Forest Service in the Rawah Wilderness, Stanley Irwin Grossman, Gretchen Laura Kluge and I on August 10 climbed the east face of South Rawah Peak (12,6...
Danish Expedition to East Greenland. A 2 5-member Danish expedition, which included nine women, reached its Base Camp at Quinguorsaq from Angmagssalik. They made 15 first ascents of peaks which varied in altitude from 4000 to 5500 feet.
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Paintbrush DivideOn the afternoon of June 7, 1994, David Turk and Dan Turk (25) were traversing a steep snow couloir near Paintbrush Divide when Dan Turk slipped and fell appro...
Huascarán Norte, North Face, Solo. Renato Casarotto climbed the north face of Huascarán Norte solo in sixteen days from June 5 to 21, cut off from direct contact with his base except by radio with his wife Goretta, who waited in a tent at the Llan...
Disappointment Peak, West Arête. A second new route on the west side of this peak was made on July 17, 1979 by Jim Beyer and JoAnne Urioste. It starts about 100 yards down and south of the col separating the Red Sentinel from Disappointment Peak a...
Longs Peak, East Face, Gear and Clothing, Previously Unreported. In August, 1998, Cameron Tague and I did the second ascent of Gear and Clothing (IV 5.9 A4) on the Diamond. The ascent itself is not significant; however, the amount of free climbing...
British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The year’s climbing activities were curtailed somewhat by bad weather, especially in the normally good months of September and October. As in the past the club’s climbing and hiking program was organized for e...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCK Washington, Mount ThompsonOn September 17, John Cain and Dale Ramquist climbed Mount Thompson via the West Ridge. Instead of going down the East Ridge, the normal descent route, they opted...
Tower à la Neptune, Wheeler Crest. This is the farthest left of the “Hot Tuna” towers, a row of pink granite spires about 3000 feet above the Owens Valley floor on the Wheeler Crest. In December Mike Graber and I started before dawn and roped up a...
ROBERT HAMILTON BISHOP, III1916–1963Bob Bishop died by his own hand on December 11, 1963. Those of us who had seen him only a few days previously had found him as cheerful and active as usual and had no premonition of the tragedy shortly to occur....
FALLING BAG OF ROCKS–HAUL ROPE SEVERED, POOR POSITION, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn October 8 at 1430, Daniel Gibson was practicing haul techniques by raising a 40 pound bag of rocks to his belay point. The bag became hung...