Sisne, North Peak, Kanjiroba Himal. A Swiss expedition was composed of Daniel Chevallier, Pierre Galland, Jean-Claude Chautems, André Meillard, André Egger, Dr. Gilbert Villard and me as leader. We took 20 days to travel from Surkhet to Base Camp ...
Ellingwood, North Face; Fremont, West Face; Sacajawea, West Face; Arrowhead, South Face; Raid Peak, East Face; Peak 365, East Face. Fred Beckey and I completed four new routes in the impressive Fremont Peak area. On August 25 we climbed the north ...
Rock climbs along the John Muir Trail. While working on a story for the National Geographic, I skied the length of the John Muir Trail in February with David Wilson and Rob Mckinlay. We saw no one for the first 160 miles and made ascents of Mount ...
FALLING ROCKBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Lake O'Hara, Abbott PassTwo climbers were ascending the steep approach gullies to Abbott Pass from Lake O’Hara in Yoho National Park on July 25. They were packing heavy packs, planning a few days c...
Chiring We, Kalabaland Area. The Kalabaland Glacier lies east of the Milam Glacier. To the north lies Tibet, to the east, the Darma valley and western Nepal and to the south, the Chaudhara and Rajrambha peaks. Chiring We had never been attempted b...
Shivling Northwest Face Attempt. Tony Bedel, Dominique Julien and I had hoped to climb the 4000-foot-high northwest face of Shivling. We placed our tent at 17,725 feet above the bergschrund from which we thought we could make the climb in three da...
JAMES THOMAS MADSEN1947-1968On October 16 Jim Madsen was killed in a fall from the top of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. He died attempting to help his friends who were temporarily stalled by storms on the Dihedral Wall. They were in no danger, bu...
Mount Russell, Northeast Face. On June 10, Reed Cundiff and I made the first climb of this very alpine, slabby face. Terrible snow conditions prevented us from gaining the central slabs, so we were forced to settle for a less classic, but still va...
After a long journey in mid-July, Lisi Steurer (Austria) and I arrived in one of the most beautiful and wildest rock-climbing areas in the world, the Cirque of the Unclimbables, in Nahanni National Park. It was real Canadian wilderness—hard to ...
Fitz Roy, North Face. A Polish expedition climbed a new route on the north face of Fitz Roy between the Casarotto buttress and Afanassieff’s route. They were Piotr Lutynski, Wieslaw Burzynski, Miroslaw Falco-Sasal, Michal Kochanczak and Jacek Koza...
Kedarnath Dome. The Gangotri Glacier Exploration Committee, of which I am the President, organized an expedition to Kedarnath Parbat (22,770 feet).* The members were Amulya Sen leader, Pranesh Chakraborty, Biren Sarkar, Asit Bose, Sujal Mukherjee,...
Amin Brakk, Czech Express. Based on the experience of previous groups, we arranged to arrive in the Amin Brakk area at the end of June. The unclimbed west face of Amin Brakk, situated in the Nangma Valley, was the object of our interest. Our climb...
Sierra Nevada de Lagunas Bravas. Three years ago John Biggar’s book High Andes came out, listing three 6000+-meter peaks in South America as having “no known ascent.” “No known ascent is not the same as “no ascent,” and I figured these peaks were ...
Lhotse Shar. A South Korean expedition led by Park Shulam attempted to climb Lhotse Shar (27,504 feet) by a route slightly east of the one by which the Austrians made the first ascent in 1970. Their highest camp was at 23,625 feet. Choi Soon Nanam...
HuaynaPotosí, West Rib, Cordillera Real. In July of 1989, my wife Julie and I repeated the Lyon route on the massive west face of Huayna Potosí. Our attention was held by the 3000 feet of 50° to 65° ice, but we couldn’t help noticing the distinct ...
Phabrang. In June a nine-man Indian expedition climbed Phabrang (6172 meters, 20,250 feet). Leader Y.K. Puri, P.D. Dandriyal and high-altitude porter Devi Singh reached the summit. A second Indian expedition led by Kala Chand Chatterjee also attem...
Tasilaq Fjord, East Greenland. The Expedition of the Bavarian Friends of Nature were Hans Altheimer, leader, Dr. Ekkehart Otto, Dieter Sause, Klaus Niggel, Heinrich Handel, Josef Schrank, Toni Weg- gel, Ludwig Hausinger, Rolf Scofer and I. On July...
Cerro Altar, South Face Solo. On April 7, I made the second ascent of this face. It was mixed climbing. The crux was a UIAA VI-pitch on very rotten rock. Cerro Altar rises to 5222 meters or 17,132 feet.Dagoberto Delgado, Club Alemán Andino, Chile
FALLING ROCK, NOT FOLLOWING INSTINCTS Colorado, Ophir WallOn May 27, 1989, Katie Kemble (34), former owner and Chief Guide of Leavenworth Alpine Guides, Inc., and Ric Hatch were climbing on the Ophir Wall when this accident occurred. Katie sent in...
Yakshin Gardin Sar. Iñaki Aldaya, Alfredo Zabalza, Tomás Miguel and I left Pasu on June 6. We reached Base Camp in six days with 13 very good porters. We used the same Base Camp and the same route as the 1984 Austrian party. The first attempt ende...