“La Fiamma”. The first ascent of this spectacular pinnacle was made on September 23 by Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and me. “La Fiamma”, named by our party, is near the end and just west of the ridge leading south from Packrat. From the notch between ...
Hamilton Lakes Region. We had three days of vacation left, and the fine pinnacles and domes in the region of Hamilton Lake persuaded us to leave by way of that area. The ridge between Hamilton Lake and Eagle Scout Creek has some ten pinnacles on i...
Appalachian Mountain Club. In 1989 the Appalachian Mountain Club continued to maintain over 1,000 miles of hiking trails in the northeastern U.S., dozens of back-country campsites and shelters, and various public workshops in hiking leadership and...
Greenland, North-South Traverse, Solo. After his trip to the North Pole, Naomi Uemura left the northern tip of Greenland, Kap Morris Jesup, on May 12 with 16 dogs. He traveled up Independence Fjord to reach the Icecap. He got to Narssarssuaq near ...
Fisher Towers Area. Mike Baker soloed the northwest corner of River Tower, correcting its rating to III 5.8 C2. On the 900-foot Titan, Steve Haston, partnered by his wife, French alpinist Laurence Gouault, made the first clean (C3, hammerless) asc...
Langtrang Himal. The original intention of the Langtrang-Himal Anglo- Swiss Expedition had been to climb Ganesh Himal, but this seemed impossible owing to the shortage of time and difficulties over the route taken by Raymond Lambert in 1955. We we...
André Roch 1906-2002The 20th of November saw the passing of one of the great mountaineers of our time: André Roch. Engineer, avalanche and snow expert, high mountain guide, father, oil painter, and author were some of his many accomplishments. He ...
Fitz Roy. In December of 1976 Ruedi Homberger, René Major, Paul Muggli and Jean Troillet, Swiss, climbed the American route on Fitz Roy in four days. In late January Mike Weiss and the Frenchman Jean Afanassief made a 19-hour ascent of the Super C...
Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, llliniza, 1979. Swiss Dölf Zellweger, Fredy Kälin, Walter and Mario Zehnder, Hans Grätzer, Res Menzi, Austrian Horst Schwarz and Ecuadorians Hugo Alvarez and Nicolás Martínez climbed in Ecuador in December 1979. They ascended...
Mt. Awesome, North Face. Mt. Awesome (8,645'), an attractive peak on the west side of the Spectrum Glacier, saw an ascent in April. During the spring crust weeks, Matt Porter skied in to snag a solo ascent of the impressive north face. The route i...
Mount Tyr, East Peak Cumberland Peninsula. On August 5, Mary Little, John Shapiro, Mona Devlin and I climbed the east peak of Mount Tyr (1310 meters or 4298 feet). Scrambling up the side of a snow gully, our route eventually brought us out on a bu...
Routes on the South Face of Chacraraju. A number of routes have now been climbed on the south face of Chacraraju. These are marked on the photograph. Chacraraju Oeste: A. John Bouchard, Marie-Odile Meunier, Americans, 1977 (A.A.J., 1978, pages 486...
Canadian-New Zealand Andean Expedition. Lisle Irwin of Calgary, Ken Baker of Banff, Gerald Holdsworth of Christchurch, New Zealand and John Ricker of Nanaimo, B.C. climbed in the Cordillera Blanca in July and part of August. On July 18 the north p...
On September 18, following the first major snow of the year, Brian Wood and I established Psycho Therapy (1,200', 5.9+ M6 AI4) on the north face of Borah Peak. This route follows the obvious couloir and black shaft of rock on the far right side of...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Toulumne MeadowsAccording to James Hobdy’s climbing partner, Paul McCandless, Hobdy (27) was free climbing the Deimos Route on Polly Dome on August 9, 1981. He had placed two anchor pieces in a crack ...
Kedarnath and Kedarnath Dome. A 22-man Indo-Tibetan Border Police team was led by Y.C. Khanna. Base Camp was at Tapoban. At Camp II at 20,000 feet, occupied on April 3, they split into two groups. Four members, led by deputy leader S.P. Chamoli, l...
Environmental Security Deposit and Environmental Fees for Expeditions. Col. J. P. Bhagatjee, Director of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, states that the IMF does not take require environmental security deposits from visiting expeditions. How...
Even from the highway skirting the Wind River Range on the south the profile of a sharp buttress stands out clearly. Located on a subsidiary summit about two miles north of Little Sandy Lake, it provided Bob Stevenson and me with a fine one-day c...
P 12,659. In July Fred Beckey, Bill Lahr and I started out to complete a climb Fred, Jim States, Chris Kopczynski and I had attempted in 1985 when we failed in bad weather. Our objective was P 12,659 in the Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park. It l...
Atlantis. Several years ago Kent Wheeler identified an unclimbed buttress below and around the corner from his route Lost Cities. Kent has the eye of a tiger and experience of many years in the Black, so when he asked me to join him for a new rout...