FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE-STRANDED,Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount HaddoOn July 21, after completing the North Glacier Route on Mounts Haddo and Aberdeen, a party of four began descending the “easy” south face of Mount Haddo as described in a lo...
Peaks Above the Matanuska Valley. Greg Higgins, Tom Choate and I made several climbs from the Matanuska Glacier from July 15 to 20. On July 16, we climbed Mount Wickersham (7415 feet) from the southeast, finding only two entries in the summit jar:...
Colchuck Balanced Rock, The Tempest. With a storm parked over most of the Cascades, I convinced Sol Werkin to change plans and head to the Enchantments, one of the driest spots in the range. Equipped with a full set of aid gear and extra clothing,...
Rock Climbs in Central Chile. Columbians Luis Andrés Romero and Marcelo Arbelaez made a new route in December 1982 on the south face of San Gabriel, 40 miles from Santiago in the Cajón del Maipo. This is probably the best rock climb in the Santiag...
On July 3, 2009, Dave Nettle and Reuben Shelton climbed a new route on the central buttress of the northeast face of Chamberlin. Innominata (5.11 A1) is mostly free, with two points of aid, and climbs all independent terrain. It starts with two ...
Ak-Su Valley, Various Ascents. It was reported that in September, 1995, the French team of P. Caribo, J.P. Calvet and A. Robert spent three weeks in the Ak-Su Valley, repeating Perestroika Crack on Slessova Peak after two days of preparation. The ...
Aconcagua, Descent by Parachute. A Frenchman, Alain Estève, first climbed Aconcagua solo but failed after four hours of effort to take off by a special kind of parachute (parapente). On January 10, accompanied by other French climbers, he returned...
Kabru Dome, Forked Peak and Rathong. An Indian Army expedition led by Major K.V. Cherian climbed these three peaks in western Sikkim. After establishing two high camps, they climbed Kabru Dome (6600 meters, 21,655 feet) on May 15 and Forked Peak (...
Bunnell Point, Little Yosemite, “The Golden Bear.” In June, Richard Swayze and I climbed two-and-a-half pitches on this large formation before retreating due to a lack of bolts. Mike Jauregui and I returned the following month to complete the clim...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FRIEND PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT-SHOES Arizona, Oak Creek CanyonOn October 1, 1986, Mark Monroe (26) and Carol Williams (26) were making an ascent of “Geology Sign Crack” (5.8), which was in good ...
A seven-man Polish expedition led by Bogumil Slama finally made the first ascent of Arjuna, which has been attempted various times in the last years. The climbers have compared Arjuna’s west face to the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. After es...
Viking’s Shield Wall, solo first ascent. From August 15 to September 7 Mike Libecki made a solo first ascent of the 4,000-foot Viking’s Shield wall, establishing Giving Birth to Reason (VI 5.10b A3+). See his lead story earlier in this Journal for...
Sangmissoq. Our French expedition climbed Sangmissoq (2060 meters, 6759 feet) on the south shore of Evinghedsfjord. The first ascent had been made by the Gréloz Franco-Swiss party in 1958. There was a crumbling cairn on the summit. The only other ...
California, Yosemite National Park, North Face of Rostrum. On 13 September Tim Auger (23), and Neil Bennett (21), were climbing Rostrum. From a belay ledge, Tim placed two aid pins and then started up a layback crack, carrying two pins on slings i...
FALL ON ROCK AND SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Slalok MountainIn late September, 1988, Kirby Inwood, an inexperienced climber in his early 30’s, was on Slalok Mountain, a 2650 meter peak about 30 kilometers east of Pember...
Matterhorn (A. A. J.,ii, 510). William Oxnard Moseley. Dr. Claude Wilson, former President of the A. C., writes : “I, with my brother and two guides made the ascent on August 22nd, and F. Morshead with Melchior Anderegg started with us to recover ...
Cascade Peak, East Ridge. On July 27, Mike Anthony and I completed a first ascent of the east ridge of the peak in beautiful weather. The climb was class 4 and 5 on very crumbly, rotten rock. Our ascent was the sixth registered ascent of the peak....
Mount Baring and Dolomite Tower, 1992. Dolomite Tower is a 1300-foot- high vertical pillar of very fine, compact metamorphic rock adjacent to Mount Baring in the North Cascades. In June of 1992,I climbed over four days a rib on the right side of t...
Cardinal Peak, Chelan Range. This 8595-foot summit in the northern Chelan Range, which parallels the western shore of Lake Chelan, was finally climbed by Burr Singleton, Don Avery and W. A. Gilbaugh in late June. Five earlier attempts over a perio...
Tapie Shikhar, First Ascent. Not far south-southwest of Drohmo is the 6341-meter mountain generally known as Cross Peak (its Nepalese name is Taple Shikhar). The mountain had been attempted only once before, by Japanese in 1963; it is not at the p...