Chirbas. A 15-man Calcutta expedition led by Indra Nath Mukherjee made the first ascent of Chirbas (6529 meters, 21,420 feet). The trek began from Bhairon Ghati on May 26. The weather was unfavorable during the approach march along Nelang and Gull...

Cerro Torre, El Area de los Vientos. On November 12 and 13, Alessandro Beltrami, Rolando Garibotti, and Ermanno Salvaterra became the first to climb Cerro Torre from the north. Their route, El Arca de los Vientos (1,200m, 37 pitches, VI 5.11 A1 90...

Gasherbrum IV, South Ridge Attempt. We were Geoff Hibbert, Phil Thornhill, Martin Hind, Pakistani liaison officer Rozi Ali and I. We suffered a porter strike at Dassu; the porters demanded an extra 400 rupees each but settled for 200 rupees. This ...

Shipton Spire, Inshallah, third ascent. CeciliaBuil, Nan Darkis, and I did the third ascent of Inshallah (1,350 meters: 5.12 and A2) on the south east face Shipton Spire. Darkis and I attempted to free climb most of the 30 pitches we led. Buil aid...

Tawoche. German Jürgen Knappe led a four-man expedition which made the ninth ascent of Tawoche (6501 meters, 21,329 feet). On October 26, Knappe and Axel Schlönvogt reached the summit via the south ridge and the south face.Elizabeth Hawley

Everest: The Swiss Expedition in Photographs, compiled by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. XV pages of Introduction, 6 plates in color and 144 full page illustrations in black and white, and various sketches. New York: E. P. Dutton & ...

Putha Hiunchuli Attempt. The Japanese Yokkaichi Alpine Club Expedition, led by Kunihiko Noro, was composed of six men and two women. They were attempting a new route, the northeast ridge. On October 12 an avalanche hit and destroyed Camp V at 21,0...

Shigri Parbat, Lahoul. A seven-man Indian team led by Dhiren Pania made the fourth ascent of Shigri Parbat (6526 meters, 21,411 feet) at the head of the Bara Shigri Glacier. They established Base Camp at Concordia and climbed the south face to a p...

Nevado de las Vírgenes, Correction. In AAJ, 1993, page 174, I mistakenly called one of the peaks of the Khori Chuma group “Nevado de las Vírgenes.” The details of the ascent are accurate, but after further investigation, I do not believe that P 54...

Mana and P 5730. A 19-member Indian Army Ordnance Corps expedition was led by Captain S.P. Malik. They approached from the west via the Nagthuni Glacier and the Gupta Khal. The team was involved in an avalanche on June 11 and injured members had t...

FALL ON ROCK, POORLY CONSTRUCTED ANCHORNorth Carolina, Hanging Rock State Park, Moore's WallOn May 2, Drew Witt (28) and I, Lee Kennedy (23) were climbing Zoo View (5.7+). I set up the belay by building an anchor on the large boulder located on th...

LOSS OF CONTROL—GLISSADE, CRAMPON CAUGHT ON ICE Oregon, Mount HoodOn May 23, 2993, Jason Bacon (22) said that he was sliding down the mountain when suddenly his crampon caught on the ice and he heard a loud pop in his leg. He was evacuated by Port...

Shisha Pangma Central Summit. A French group of hutmasters from Briançon, led by Pierre Lombard, managed to climb to the central summit (8008 meters, 26,274 feet) of Shisha Pangma in two groups: first, on September 30, by Jacques LeHir, André Beno...

Ningchin Kangsha. This 7223-meter (23,698-foot) peak lies southwest of Lhasa. It was attempted via its southwest ridge by Japanese in September, 1985, who reached 6800 meters, and was climbed by Tibetans in April 1986. Our expedition was composed ...

“Mont Maudit”, northwest face and north ridge. Many road blocks caused by landslides delayed arrival in the Miyar Valley, resulting in our seven-member expedition having only eight days at base camp. While five of the team ascended Masala Peak (ca...

North Palisade, West face. The Palisade Range offers California’s most alpine climbing on 14,000-foot peaks fluted with ice gullies that rise above cirque glaciers. Almost all the technical climbs have been in this picturesque setting on the easte...

AVALANCHE British Columbia, Yoho Park, Chancellor Peak Leif-Norman Patterson (40) and his son, Thor (12), of Golden, and J.R. Saarinen (17) of Calgary set out to climb Chancellor Peak on 12 December 1976. Avalanche warnings had been posted in th...

Varaha Shikhar (The Fang), second ascent, east face to south ridge. [Photo on page 4.] Gangwon University Korean Expedition made a new route up the Fang (7,647m), via the 1,400m east face to the south ridge. The only previous ascent of this diffic...

Aguja Mermoz, Northwest Face, Attempt. During the 1996-’97 season, Italians Maurizio Giordani and Aldo Levitti climbed a new line on the northwest face, but failed to reach the summit. The 16-pitch route climbs an obvious crack system to the left ...

Mt. Kinesava, Arrakis. In early October, Dan Gambino and I climbed a new route on the southwest face of Mt. Kinesava. Arrakis (V 5.8 A2+) is ten pitches long and took three days to complete. Located about 600 feet left of King Corner, the route fo...