Yerupajá and Jirishanca West Face. After arriving at Cajatambo by bus, Toni Ponholzer, Dr. Rolf Klett, Erich Grossegger, Mario Bürgen and I took four days to reach Base Camp at Jahuacocha. We then placed a camp at 5250 meters on the Yerupajá Glaci...
EXPOSURE, WEATHER, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinleyNaomi Uemura (43) was a Japanese explorer and climber who had completed many solo dog sled treks and mountaineering expeditions throughout the world. On August 26, 1970, he became the first pe...
Nuestra Señora de las Nieves, First Ascent. In January, twelve climbers from San Juan made attempts to ascend the southern peak of Cerro de la Ramada (c. 5900 meters, or about 19,350 feet). Due to route-finding problems, the attempts had to be aba...
DEHYDRATION–EXHAUSTION, MINOR FROSTBITE, CLIMBING TOO SLOWLY-FAILURE TO TURN BACKAlaska, Mount McKinley, Messner CouloirAt 0500 on June 3, Jan Markup (27), Petr Hoffman (27) from the Czech Republic, and Camelo Lopez from a Colombian-American exped...
K2, South Face Attempt. Our Franco-German expedition was composed of Germans Reinhard Karl and Hans Martin Götz and Frenchmen Jean Afanassieff, Dr. Donald Morcamp and me as leader. We were at Base Camp at 16,400 feet from May 16 to June 23. We app...
La Esfinge, Todos Narcos. Spaniards José Fernández and Daniel Lacueva (“Papiol”) attempted to climb the southeast face of La Esfinge by a new route, but because of the poor quality of the rock and the absence of a direct, logical line, they decide...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, HYPOTHERMIA Alberta , Rocky Mountains, Mount AndromedaOn April 25, 1986, David Bennett (18) and Jeff Hanson (18) were climbing on Sky Ladder, a popular climbing route on Mount Andromeda. At 1600, the weather b...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome). A French expedition led by Bernard Muller attempted this peak by its north face. They pitched three camps above Base Camp. They had reconnoitered to 21,000 feet above Camp III on October 8.Heavy snowfall brought avalanch...
AAC, Oregon Section. The Oregon Section has been infused with some new members and great input. Tom Thrall continues to work on various conservation projects for the upcoming year. Tom Thrall, Tom Bennett and I recently decided to mix a little fun...
Himalchuli North, First Ascent. A Korean expedition led by Lee Kyu-Jin and a Polish expedition were the first to attempt to reach this summit and both succeeded. Korean Lee Jae-Hong went to the top (7371 meters, 24,182 feet) on October 27 from a s...
Trisul I, West Face. In August and September, a Korean expedition led by Yeon Soo Park made an ascent of Trisul I (7120m) via the seldom-climbed 1976 Yugoslavian West Face route. Two members, Hyung Yull Kim and Jong Young Park, reached the summit ...
Churen Himal East Peak Attempt. An eight-man Korean expedition led by Do Chang-Ho attempted to climb the east peak of Churen Himal by its southeast ridge but they found the final summit ridge too difficult. It was very sharp, knife edged, steep ic...
Clyde Palisade, Primrose Ridge. This prominent crest adorns the north face of Clyde Palisade to end on the west summit. It is very visible from Glacier Lodge and usually divides the light from shadow. Dave Black, Mike Graber, and I made the first ...
The Third International Congress of Alpinism will be held at Chamonix, August 25th to 28th to discuss numerous items under the six main headings of Mountaineering (general and technical), Science, Conservation, Travel and Transportation, Health, a...
Monte Shipton-Monte Darwin, naming and reconnaissance. In 1962 my father, Eric Shipton, made the first ascent of the highest peak of the Cordillera Darwin in Tierra del Fuego with three Chilean companions, Cedomir Marangunic, Eduardo Garcia, and F...
Makalu, Ascent and Tragedy. Miss Taeko Nagao, Yuji Futamata, Yuko Okada, Takumi Ishizaka, Ayumi Nozawai and I were on Makalu’s normal northwest route. We placed Camp III on the Makalu Col at 7400 meters on September 26 and Camp IV at 7800 meters o...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideOn January 27, an experienced Mazama Club climbing leader (65) was climbing solo on the popular Southside route when he slipped at 9,000-foot elevation, sliding about 50 feet befo...
Pik Kommunizma and Pik Korzhenevskoi Winter Ascents, 1986. Serious winter mountaineering in the USSR has only comparatively recently begun. Until the beginning of 1986, no notable peaks in the Pamir Mountains had been climbed in winter. In January...
Tatatunshu and Pachancoto. Andreas Brückner, Caspar Vogel, Mark Ebneter and I climbed in the Cordillera Central in July before going to Huascarán. We made the fourth ascent of Pachancoto (18,537 feet) by the northwest face, possibly a new route, o...
P 1980, Above Jorge Montt Glacier, 1992. In August 1992, Gianni Rovedatti, Maurizio Folini, Dario Mura and I hoped to make a north-south traverse of the Northern Patagonian Icecap, starting up the Jorge Montt Glacier. Ten days of continuous bad we...