Mt. Adams, Adams Headwall variation. It is a testament to E1 Nino and an open-minded approach to ice climbing that an interesting new route was enjoyed on the 4th of July. It was made possible by its high altitude, the shade of a northwest face, a...
San Juan Group, Cordillera Blanca. Lisle Irwin and I went in August, 1966 into the Quebrada Shallap with David Bathgate and Terry Burnell. We tried San Juan Sur without success but did climb P 5459 (17,911 feet) at the head of the Quebrada Minas, ...
FALLING ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn August 11 at 1130 Ranger Jim Woodmency was hit by rockfall in the Black Ice Couloir on the Grand Teton while on a routine mountain patrol. The rockfall was spontaneous from a ledge on the northeast side of The Enclosu...
Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy, Aguja Guillaumet and Aguja Poincenot, 1983. In October 1982 Ermanno Salvaterra and Elio Orlandi failed by 100 feet to complete the Maestri route on the east buttress of Cerro Torre when the weatherturned bad. They returned i...
White Mountains and Tawny Plain, by Günter Hauser, Translated by Richard Rickett. London: Allen and Unwin, 1961. 224 pages; illustrated. Price 28s.This excellent book originally appeared in German as Ihr Herren Berge, Menschen und Gipfel im Lande ...
FALL ON ROCK, EXHAUSTIONUtah, Little Cottonwood CanyonOn June 2, 1985, Richard Jefferis (29) fell while attempting to climb Half A Finger (5.9). He had been bouldering on the rocks at the entrance to the climbing area for several hours before agre...
Mustagh Ata. A five-man Japanese party led by Keizo Yabuki climbed Mustagh Ata in the autumn. Yukata Takagi and Shohei Suzuki arrived at the summit.
Chekiaraju, Winter Ascent. Although according to the position of the sun from December to March it is summer, this season with much unfavorable weather is generally called “winter” throughout the Andean regions of Peru. David Teegardin, Andy Bell ...
REGIONAL MOUNTAIN SAFETY PROGRAMSIt is relevant to bring up reports on what some of the mountaineering clubs and related organizations in North America are doing to combat mountain accidents. Admittedly, not all climbing organizations are mentione...
The Obelisk, Northwest Corner. Don Palmer, Jack Bedell and I climbed a new route on the Obelisk’s northwest comer on June 19. Starting near the left edge of the west face, we ascended 3½ pitches of easy, delightful face-climbing to gain a notch be...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park. On 17 February Mr. Charles H. Anderson led a group from Paradise to the Paradise Ice Caves. The party consisted of him, his wife Edith (22), Dave Mischke, and Bob Brown. Brown, however, turned back shortly af...
The West Glacier of Pissis, Argentina, is 40km square, the biggest in the region. It can only be reached after a difficult 200km off-road ride. The only attempt on the route was by Mexicans in 1994. In March a team led by Guillermo Almaraz, with...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE BELAYColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallOn July 13 a climber (37) took a 100-foot fall on the Red Garden wall in Eldorado Springs before his partner managed to control the rope, stopping his pa...
Kang Guru. A Korean expedition of five was led by Park Soon Jo. They climbed the west face to the southeast ridge, joining the ridge at about 6000 meters. They had four camps above Base Camp, including two sites for Camp III. Two Koreans plus Pasa...
The Juggernaut. After Jack Roberts, Dave Black, and I climbed a simply gorgeous face, really a prow, southwest of Crown Lake, we could not focus on a name other than an uninspired “Crown Lake Buttress” . Greg Donaldson, who had earlier climbed mos...
Corn Dog, Park Avenue, Arches National Park. On December 20, Cameron Bums and I climbed the Com Dog in the Park Avenue area. The tower sits on an extremely narrow, sandy base. While we were on it, we had the feeling it might topple over at any mom...
Moditse or Annapurna South. A four-man Japanese group, led by Kasuo Yamada, had to call off the expedition because of the “unusual behavior” of the Nepalese liaison officer. He developed symptoms of high-altitude euphoria — laughing at the top of ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Ontario, Buffalo CragOn April 30, 1989, at 1550, Larry Forsyth was leading Flying Kiwi (5.8). He placed four pieces of protection on the route, including two #6 rocks (sic) just below the crux move. Attempting t...
The east face of Longs Peak was ascended by R. L. M. Underhill, alone, in June, 1929, by the original route. This is the first lone ascent since the original ascent, by Professor Alexander. The east face has, as usual, proved too difficult for ine...
Spedizioni d’alpinismo in Africa, by Guido Monzino. Verona: Mondadori, 1966. 348 pages, 177 photographs (31 in color), 27 maps and sketches. In this massive book, size 9"×l2" , Signor Monzino covers in a brief text and with a large number of plate...