REGIONAL MOUNTAIN SAFETY PROGRAMSIt is relevant to bring up reports on what some of the mountaineering clubs and related organizations in North America are doing to combat mountain accidents. Admittedly, not all climbing organizations are mentione...
The Obelisk, Northwest Corner. Don Palmer, Jack Bedell and I climbed a new route on the Obelisk’s northwest comer on June 19. Starting near the left edge of the west face, we ascended 3½ pitches of easy, delightful face-climbing to gain a notch be...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park. On 17 February Mr. Charles H. Anderson led a group from Paradise to the Paradise Ice Caves. The party consisted of him, his wife Edith (22), Dave Mischke, and Bob Brown. Brown, however, turned back shortly af...
The West Glacier of Pissis, Argentina, is 40km square, the biggest in the region. It can only be reached after a difficult 200km off-road ride. The only attempt on the route was by Mexicans in 1994. In March a team led by Guillermo Almaraz, with...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE BELAYColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallOn July 13 a climber (37) took a 100-foot fall on the Red Garden wall in Eldorado Springs before his partner managed to control the rope, stopping his pa...
Kang Guru. A Korean expedition of five was led by Park Soon Jo. They climbed the west face to the southeast ridge, joining the ridge at about 6000 meters. They had four camps above Base Camp, including two sites for Camp III. Two Koreans plus Pasa...
The Juggernaut. After Jack Roberts, Dave Black, and I climbed a simply gorgeous face, really a prow, southwest of Crown Lake, we could not focus on a name other than an uninspired “Crown Lake Buttress” . Greg Donaldson, who had earlier climbed mos...
Corn Dog, Park Avenue, Arches National Park. On December 20, Cameron Bums and I climbed the Com Dog in the Park Avenue area. The tower sits on an extremely narrow, sandy base. While we were on it, we had the feeling it might topple over at any mom...
Moditse or Annapurna South. A four-man Japanese group, led by Kasuo Yamada, had to call off the expedition because of the “unusual behavior” of the Nepalese liaison officer. He developed symptoms of high-altitude euphoria — laughing at the top of ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Ontario, Buffalo CragOn April 30, 1989, at 1550, Larry Forsyth was leading Flying Kiwi (5.8). He placed four pieces of protection on the route, including two #6 rocks (sic) just below the crux move. Attempting t...
The east face of Longs Peak was ascended by R. L. M. Underhill, alone, in June, 1929, by the original route. This is the first lone ascent since the original ascent, by Professor Alexander. The east face has, as usual, proved too difficult for ine...
Spedizioni d’alpinismo in Africa, by Guido Monzino. Verona: Mondadori, 1966. 348 pages, 177 photographs (31 in color), 27 maps and sketches. In this massive book, size 9"×l2" , Signor Monzino covers in a brief text and with a large number of plate...
Chirbas. A 15-man Calcutta expedition led by Indra Nath Mukherjee made the first ascent of Chirbas (6529 meters, 21,420 feet). The trek began from Bhairon Ghati on May 26. The weather was unfavorable during the approach march along Nelang and Gull...
Cerro Torre, El Area de los Vientos. On November 12 and 13, Alessandro Beltrami, Rolando Garibotti, and Ermanno Salvaterra became the first to climb Cerro Torre from the north. Their route, El Arca de los Vientos (1,200m, 37 pitches, VI 5.11 A1 90...
Gasherbrum IV, South Ridge Attempt. We were Geoff Hibbert, Phil Thornhill, Martin Hind, Pakistani liaison officer Rozi Ali and I. We suffered a porter strike at Dassu; the porters demanded an extra 400 rupees each but settled for 200 rupees. This ...
Shipton Spire, Inshallah, third ascent. CeciliaBuil, Nan Darkis, and I did the third ascent of Inshallah (1,350 meters: 5.12 and A2) on the south east face Shipton Spire. Darkis and I attempted to free climb most of the 30 pitches we led. Buil aid...
Tawoche. German Jürgen Knappe led a four-man expedition which made the ninth ascent of Tawoche (6501 meters, 21,329 feet). On October 26, Knappe and Axel Schlönvogt reached the summit via the south ridge and the south face.Elizabeth Hawley
Everest: The Swiss Expedition in Photographs, compiled by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. XV pages of Introduction, 6 plates in color and 144 full page illustrations in black and white, and various sketches. New York: E. P. Dutton & ...
Putha Hiunchuli Attempt. The Japanese Yokkaichi Alpine Club Expedition, led by Kunihiko Noro, was composed of six men and two women. They were attempting a new route, the northeast ridge. On October 12 an avalanche hit and destroyed Camp V at 21,0...
Shigri Parbat, Lahoul. A seven-man Indian team led by Dhiren Pania made the fourth ascent of Shigri Parbat (6526 meters, 21,411 feet) at the head of the Bara Shigri Glacier. They established Base Camp at Concordia and climbed the south face to a p...