EDWIN MULLER, JR.1892–1963Edwin Muller, a roving editor of the Reader’s Digest for more than 25 years, died in Good Hill, Kent, Connecticut on September 20 at the age of 71. He was born in Louisville, Kentucky on March 23, 1892, the son of a Presb...
STRANDED, DARKNESS–FAILURE TO TURN BACK, INADEQUATE CLOTHING and EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn September 15 at 2200, NPS dispatch received a report of climbers who were yelling for help on the Royal Arches Route. Rangers Kei...
K2, Attempts and Tragedy. Seven Spanish Catalans led by Josep Aced reached 8300 meters on the Abruzzi route. During the descent, Jordi Angles (39) was killed when he slipped not far from Base Camp.Xavier Eguskitza, Pyrenaica, Bilbao, Spain
New climbs in Peak Lake and Upper Wells Creek Regions. Our party of six, Walter Hermann, Richard Judy, Gerald Marsden, David Sanderson, David Spencer and I, climbed in the central Wind Rivers. Climbs included first ascents of G-18 (12,100 feet) vi...
Mongol Peaks, Monarch Icecap, Coast Range. A Mountain Travel (USA) expedition spent three weeks from July 18 to August 9 in the area around Ape Lake. We ascended a new route on East Mongol up its northwest ridge, reaching this from the glacier to ...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF CHOCKManitoba, Gunton, Limestone QuarryOn May 31, 1981, Everett Fee (36), who had been climbing for nine years, was aid climbing at a limestone quarry near Gunton, Manitoba. When he was 30 feet off the ground, the bottom c...
STRANDED—OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE RESEARCH, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Waterton Lakes National Park, Crandell Mountain, Tick RidgeA group of 25, including five teacher/leaders and 20 grade 10–11 students, were attempting the “moderately-difficult” s...
K7 Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Hiroshi Ishikawa attempted unsuccessfully the west face of K7 (22,750 feet from the Charakusa Glacier.
Baruntse Tragedy. Three Frenchmen attempted or climbed Baruntse by the north ridge from the west. One of the three left the expedition early, having received minor injuries in a fall. Julien Graux and Phillipe Grézat climbed high on the north ridg...
Apolobamba, Various Activity. Team members Simon Cooke (leader), Toby Spence, David Gerrard, Andrew Naslas and Kate Ackroyd arrived in La Paz on July 26. Traveling through Charazani, Lagunilla, Jatunpampa, and Incachani, we reached Sunchuli on the...
Talkeetna Mountains. In March my husband Vin and I left the Glenn Highway at Mile 123 near Tahneta Lake. We motormushed and skijored north up Crooked Creek into South Creek, above which we made the first ascent of Table Mountain. A few weeks later...
Lhotse, Polish Ascent. An expedition from Gliwice was the fourth to climb Lhotse (27,923 feet), following the original route and establishing the regular number of high camps. Three parties got to the top, including one oxygenless one, Andrzej Czo...
Cho Oyu, South Face Winter Attempt. Reinhold Messner, Friedl Mutschlechner, Paul Hanny, Hans Kammerlander and Peter Eisendle, South Tiro- lean Italians, Wojciech Kurtyka, Polish, and I, Austrian, were accompanied to Base Camp by four women, a writ...
Mt. Barille, Feeling Randy. On April 22 Sean Easton, Dave Marra, and I flew into the Ruth Gorge with aspirations to climb new routes. We decided to “warm up” on the southeast buttress of Mt. Barille. Two days after landing I started up the first p...
Alpine Club of Canada. The main summer camp for 1968 was held at Lake O’Hara in Yoho National Park, with 127 members and friends in attendance. The camp was set up in Schaeffer Meadow, adjacent to Schaeffer Lake at 7200 feet. The first few days we...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2009 climbing season once again featured great triumphs and moving tragedies. Four deaths occurred on Mt. McKinley, and 47 climbers were stricken with injuries or illnesses that required medical inte...
Soviet Climbs in Asia, 1964. Reported in Alpinismus were climbs in the Pamirs. On August 3, four Siberian climbers led by G. Schwarzmann climbed a 20,223-foot peak neighboring Pik Lenin. A 10-man expedition led by W. Syrkin made the first ascent o...
East Peak of the Gothics, Southwest Face, Adamant Peaks, Northern Selkirks. Fred Beckey, Jan Schwarzburg and I made the first ascent of the impressive southwest face of the east peak of the Gothics (10,640 feet) on July 24 to 26 (V, 5.9, A2). An a...
FALL ON SNOW, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, North Cascades National Park, Mount Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys RouteOn September 16, John Nedila (50) slipped on a 50-degree snow slope on the Fisher Chimneys route on Mount Shuksan. He slid about 125 ...
Mt. Columbia. Ascent direct from Columbia Icefield chalet, via Athabaska Glacier and S. E. ridge. 1940, Miss J. Atkin, D. R. Crosby, P. Lagerström. Chalet to top of glacier 2 h. 45 m. Icefalls well bridged and ascended without rope; skis with skin...