Book Reviews AAJ
Where the Clouds Can Go

Where The Clouds Can Go. The Autobiography of Conrad Kain. Edited, with additional chapters by J. Monroe Thorington. 480 pages ; 20 illustrations. 1935. $3.00.


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse, Unroped, British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Deville Glacier

FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Glacier National Park, Deville GlacierOn May 6, B.E. (48) fell 60 feet to his death in a crevasse in the Selkirk Mountains while ski touring on the Deville Glacier in Glacier National Park. B.E. and fou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nampa Attempt

Nampa Attempt. Our party included Susan Billings, Nancy Neiley, Jerry and Paul Sibley, Dr. Alan Sudweeks, Chuck Tolton, Matt Wells, Mark Udall and me as leader. Dr. Sudweeks had the misfortune to injure his knee on the approach and had to return t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Bhagirathi III, Southwest Buttress

Bhagirathi III, Southwest Buttress. Bob Barton and I established Base Camp on the meadows at Tapovan at 14,750 feet on September 11 after a day-and-a-half walk-in from the roadhead at Gangotri. In three days more we stocked and occupied Advanced B...


In Memoriam AAJ
Robert Lockwood Lipman, 1894-1968

ROBERT LOCKWOOD LIPMAN1894-1968Bob Lipman joined the American Alpine Club in 1927. Most of his climbing experience was in the Sierra Nevada of California, although he climbed the Grand Teton in 1926, when such, a feat was a rarity. In the Sierra h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Obelisk, West Face

The Obelisk, West Face. The Obelisk is an outstanding reddish monolith near the rim of the middle fork of the Kings River, just east of Spanish Mountain. On June 6, Hooman Aprin and I found an interesting new route, the west face. Some seven pitch...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Stairway Glacier, Probable First Ascents North America, Canada, St. Elias Range

Jenny Foister, Pete McCombie, Glenn Wilks, and I spent three weeks on the Stairway Glacier in Kluane National Park, climbing nine probably unvisited peaks that varied from straightforward snow plods to technical ridges. [The area is shown in the...

| Published 2009 | Author Mark Weeding, UK


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina–Central Andes, Cerro Pabellón, Second Ascent

Cerro Pabellón, Second Ascent. As a final celebration of a climbing course given during February by the Club Andinista Mendoza, nine mountaineers including several women made the second ascent of Cerro Negro or Pabellón (6152 meters, 20,183 feet),...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Sikkim, Frey Peak

Frey Peak. All nine members and two Sherpa instructors of the 35th Advance Course of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Darjeeling climbed Frey Peak (19,500 feet) on September 26.KAMAL K. Guha, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Mountains, Amin Brakk, West Face, Attempt

Amin Brakk, West Face, Attempt. The team members of the Korean Alpine Club Amin Brakk Expedition were Young Soon Hwang, Jung Ho Bang, Dong Chul Shin, Myoung Rae Kim and Ihn Soo Park. The team departed Seoul May 22 and established Base Camp at 4200...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Bhagirathi II

Bhagirathi II. A team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police climbed this peak on June 15, after setting up two camps. The members were N.C. Tripathi, Sohan Lal, L.P. Semwal, Marain Singh, Tej Bahadur Gurung, Nim Putar, Ang Putar, Puran Singh and Kun...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Northern Andes, Puna de Atacama, Peaks 5376m and 6070m, Veladero, Bonete, Reclus

Puna de Atacama, Peaks 5376m and 6070m, Veladero, Bonete, Reclus. On the high-altitude plateau of the Puna de Atacama, in November 2000, Britain John Biggar led a group (Brits G. Biggar, P. Clarke, P. Gilbert, and B. Powling and Peruvian D. Aureli...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori

Pumori. A Japanese expedition of the Fujiomiya Alpine Club was led by Miyoshi Mochizuki. They attempted the very steep rock and ice south face of Pumori (23,442 feet). On April 19 Osamu Matsumura, Saburo Kato and Kenichi Shinohara reconnoitered fo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Ala Norte, Condoriri, West Ridge, Cordillera Real

Ala Norte, Condoriri, West Ridge, Cordillera Real. Beautiful Condoriri’s two outspread wings give the image of a great bird in flight. The wings are separate from Condoriri itself. We climbed the Ala Norte (North Wing), which actually lies rather ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Himachal Pradesh, CB54

CB54. Our expedition, comprising my wife Lizzie, my brother Peter, Adam Brown, Jim Shilling and me, set out on August 22. Brown and I were the climbers, the other working in support. Our aim was to make the first ascent of CB54 and then travel 30 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Apostelens Tommelfinger Attempt

Apostelens Tommelfinger Attempt. A scientific-climbing expedition of the Trieste section of the CAI was led by Franco de Fachinetti and composed of Antonio Alberti, Tullio Piemontese, Giorgio Carpani, Giodo Cortese, Gino Comelli, Roberto Ive, Gior...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile—Central Andes, Torre San Andrès, Torres del Brujo Range, 1991

Torre San Andrés, Torres del Brujo Range, 1991. Chileans Waldo Farías and Christián Heitmann climbed the spectacular Torre San Andrés (3050 meters, 10,007 feet) in the first half of February of 1991, reaching the summit on February 10. The granite...


Accident Reports ANAM
Failure of Rappel Setup (Protection Pulled Out), Inadequate Equipment, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park

FAILURE OF RAPPEL SETUP (PROTECTION PULLED OUT),INADEQUATE EQUPMENT Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn May 7, 1989, Robert Johnston (30) was attempting to lead Conan’s Gonads, a 5.9 crack climb on Twin Owls Crag. After 12 meters of rock clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Diran Attempt and Tragedy

Diran Attempt and Tragedy. Seven Japanese led by Y. Yaezu had hoped to climb Diran (7257 meters, 23,810 feet) by its north ridge. On July 20 R. Iida disappeared between the 5000-meter col on the north ridge and 5400-meter Camp III. The expedition ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park (1)

Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park (2)—Little Matterhorn: On 31 July 1953, a party of nine girls was ascending the Little Matterhorn. This organized group had almost reached the summit when Miss Kathryn Rees (15) became startled at the movement...