Abi Gamin Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition of the Indian Corps of Engineers was led by Captain S.B. Vajramati. They set up Base Camp at Vasundahara Lake on September 12 and Camps I and II on the east Kamet Glacier at 6045 and 6450 meters. Camps I...
South Platte Rock Climbing and the Garden of the Gods. Peter Hubbel and Mark Rolofson. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1988. 292 pages, black and white photographs, route diagrams, maps. $19.95 (paper).Time was when most climbers would keep local crags ...
Nanga Parbat, winter attempt. The Italian Simone la Terra and the experienced Pakistani mountaineer Mehrban Karim attempted Nanga Parbat (8,125m) via the Diamir Face. They reached the standard base camp on December 3 and established Camp 1 on the ...
Wrangell/Saint Elias National Park. The 1996 spring and summer season in the Wrangell/Saint Elias National Park proved to be one of the most productive mountaineering periods ever for Ultima Thule clients, personnel and friends. In early April, Ru...
Beyond the SkylineAndrew John Kauffman, 2ndHALFWAY between the main transcontinental line of the Canadian Pacific Railroad and the northeast arm of Upper Arrow Lake stand the ramparts of the Battle Range. This remote, uncharted and almost legendar...
Karjiang attempt, Taptol Kangri and Kangmi Kangri first ascents. During the post monsoon season Rudolf van Aken, Pepijn Bink, Court Haegens, Willem Horstmann, Rein-Jan Koolwijk, and I attempted the first ascent of Karjiang South (7221m), the highe...
In a roundtrip of 40 hours from base camp and back, Jozef “Dodo” Kopold made an audacious first ascent, solo, of the central pillar on the east face of Annapurna South. His route, completed in early April, tops out more or less at the ca 7,100m no...
Washing ton, Mt. Erie Practice Bluff—On March 24, four members of The Mountaineers on a practice jaunt to Mt. Erie, decided to attempt the chute that can be seen from the road as a large crack in the main cliffs on the south side of the mountain. ...
RAPPEL FAILURE—INADEQUATE ANCHOR EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanAbout 1800 on July 31, Ik Tae Choi (23) died in a fall on the East Ledges descent route on El Capitan. Choi led 5.11, A3 and had six years climbing exper...
This is the thirteenth annual report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club. Only those accidents that occurred in the United States of America are included. In addition to the accidents of 1959, this report includes those reports of ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONQuébec, Mount Saint Hilaire, Dame Noire RouteOn May 31, M.L. (33), with six years of climbing experience, and C.M. were attempting Dame Noire (5.8). M.L. was leading in a dihedral, six meters above his second and...
Chamar Kang, probable first ascent. After a long trek around northern Dolpo following in the footsteps of the great Japanese explorer Ekai Kawaguchi, a seven-member Osaka Yamanokai (Osaka Alpine Club) party, led by Tamotsu Ohnishi, arrived at Tink...
Cerro Fitz Roy, Various Ascents. Italians Michele Guerrini and Diego Stefani climbed the Goretta Pillar via the Cassarotto route with the Kearney variation on November 15, 1995. It is unclear whether they merely reached the top of the pillar or co...
Colorado, Cliff near Virginia Dale. On April 23, Charles Blackmon (26), Merle Ihne (18), and five other University of Wyoming students were participating in a practice rescue and rock evacuation exercise in a granite canyon near Virginia Dale. It ...
Zion, Enchainment. It was reported that in April, Mike Pennings and Jeff Hollenbaugh linked the routes Touchstone Wall, Space Shot, Monkeyfinger Wall and Moonlight Buttress in 18 hours, free climbing through 5.11 and simul-climbing much of the ter...
A.A.C., Oregon Section. Four Section members, Arthur, Cramer, Pooley and McGown together with others, completed the final building requirements for occupancy of Mount Hood’s premier climbing-and-ski hut. Silcox Hut is now open for reservations. A ...
Two paintings by Gabriel Loppé. In the pages of the ‘Alpine Journal’ there is probably no biographical sketch more sympathetic than that of the artist, Gabriel Loppe (1825-1913), by D. W. Freshfield (A.J. 37, 334).Two of his paintings, held by the...
Mount Caubvik, Torngat Mountains, 1982. Mount Caubvik (c. 1730 meters, 5840 feet), also known as L1 and Mont d’Iberville, is the highest mountain in eastern Canada. It is located in the Torngat Mountains on the border between Quebec and the Labrad...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, SEVERED ROPE, NO BELAYWyoming, TetonsOn August 22, 1980, Jeffrey Burns (24) and Terence Burns (22) were attempting a climb of the north ridge of Teewinot. J. Burns led the first pitch and called t...
FALLING ROCKS – BROKE AWAY FROM ROUTESPennsylvania, Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, Mount Minsi, Mount TammanyThere were three climbing incidents reported from this area.The first report was of a fall on a route called Raptor of the S...