East Face of Longs Peak, Diamond, From August 25 to 27 Mike Covington and I made a new route on the Yellow Wall to the left of "Diamond-7,” which we called the "Curving Vine” because of the abundance of green plants in the long curving dihedral we...
Aq Task. A joint Indo-Japanese expedition was led by Indian Hukam Singh and me. After arriving at Base Camp at 4800 meters on July 18, we established Camp I at 5600 meters on the Yangbar Glacier on July 21. From there, the eight Indians headed for...
High Adventure, by Bob and Ira Spring. Text by Norma and Patricia Spring. 128 pages, 150 illustrations. Seattle: Superior Publishing Co., 1951. Price, $8.50.The cover of High Adventure states that it is by “America’s Outstanding Mountain Photograp...
Yugoslavian-American Exchange Program. Yugoslavian climbers, Borut Bergant and Iztok Tomanzin, visited the United States for 38 days. This was an exchange program between the American Alpine Club and the Yugoslavian Alpine Organization. (Komisija ...
Staunings Alps. The Italian Greenland Expedition, led by Guido Monzino of Milan, last summer visited the Staunings Alps on the east coast at 72° North. In 1963 Monzino had led another expedition to the same region, which visited the area of the Be...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, POOR ROUTE SELECTION, HASTE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount TeewinotOn the afternoon of May 14, 1994, Arlo Morrill (51), Steve Olsen (45), and Terri Buceambuso were descending the east face of Mount T...
Huascarán Norte, North Face. In the latter half of June my brother Alan, Brian Hall and I were camped in the Llanganuco valley in preparation for an ascent of the French (Paragot) route of 1966. Alongside the large, well-organized expedition of De...
Disappointment Peak, West Side Story. This route lies on the west side of the southwest ridge of Disappointment Peak, where a large dihedral system begins about 200 yards past the base of the ridge. The first ascent of this route was made on Augus...
Longs Peak, East Face, The Casual Route, First Solo, and Other Activity, Previously Unreported. I soloed (what is now called) the Casual Route on Longs Peak on July 14, 1980, all free; it took me two hours something. My girlfriend walked up and me...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The 1966 summer camp was in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park with 172 members and friends attending. Mount Assiniboine (11,870 feet) dominated the area. However, only two successful ascents of its summit were made. Snow...
FALLING ROCK Washington, Guye PeakOn June 1, while climbing on the lower part of the south section of Guye Peak’s West Face, Kristin Beerli was struck and injured by a large (about 100 pounds) rock slab that came loose while she was being top bela...
Kings Canyon, The Red Blade. This formation is easily seen from the Cedar Grove roadhead up the hill to the east of North Dome. In May Fred Beckey, Mike Scherer and I climbed a route on the southeast face. We walked up the Copper Creek trail for a...
EDWIN MULLER, JR.1892–1963Edwin Muller, a roving editor of the Reader’s Digest for more than 25 years, died in Good Hill, Kent, Connecticut on September 20 at the age of 71. He was born in Louisville, Kentucky on March 23, 1892, the son of a Presb...
STRANDED, DARKNESS–FAILURE TO TURN BACK, INADEQUATE CLOTHING and EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn September 15 at 2200, NPS dispatch received a report of climbers who were yelling for help on the Royal Arches Route. Rangers Kei...
K2, Attempts and Tragedy. Seven Spanish Catalans led by Josep Aced reached 8300 meters on the Abruzzi route. During the descent, Jordi Angles (39) was killed when he slipped not far from Base Camp.Xavier Eguskitza, Pyrenaica, Bilbao, Spain
New climbs in Peak Lake and Upper Wells Creek Regions. Our party of six, Walter Hermann, Richard Judy, Gerald Marsden, David Sanderson, David Spencer and I, climbed in the central Wind Rivers. Climbs included first ascents of G-18 (12,100 feet) vi...
Mongol Peaks, Monarch Icecap, Coast Range. A Mountain Travel (USA) expedition spent three weeks from July 18 to August 9 in the area around Ape Lake. We ascended a new route on East Mongol up its northwest ridge, reaching this from the glacier to ...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF CHOCKManitoba, Gunton, Limestone QuarryOn May 31, 1981, Everett Fee (36), who had been climbing for nine years, was aid climbing at a limestone quarry near Gunton, Manitoba. When he was 30 feet off the ground, the bottom c...
STRANDED—OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE RESEARCH, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Waterton Lakes National Park, Crandell Mountain, Tick RidgeA group of 25, including five teacher/leaders and 20 grade 10–11 students, were attempting the “moderately-difficult” s...
K7 Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Hiroshi Ishikawa attempted unsuccessfully the west face of K7 (22,750 feet from the Charakusa Glacier.