The Dishonorable Dr. Cook: Debunking the Notorious Mount McKinley Hoax. Bradford Washburn and Peter Cherici. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001.192 pages, 80 BLACK-AND-WHITE PHOTOS, 8 PAGES DUOTONE INSERT, 6 MAPS, HARDCOVER. $29.95.I ask you to...
The Incredible HulkHitting the jackpot in the High Sierra, CaliforniaPeter CroftAt three in the morning I couldn’t stand it anymore. Although we had set the alarm for five, I was just too wound up. Catnapping through the night, every hour or so I ...
Royal Tower, East Buttress, and The Throne. In mid-June, 1994, Ned Lewis enticed me onto the Pica Glacier’s Royal Tower with a beautiful picture of a 1,500-foot unclimbed rock buttress rising out of a smooth glacier. We spent five days hand-drilli...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942—256—231—019—2196047—464—1237—819—419614...
Chacraraju, West Face, Alpos-Facig Slovenija. In June, a team of climbers from Slovenia pioneered a route up the west face of Chacraraju (6112 m). The expedition of four climbers (Dusan Debelak, Viktor Mlinar, Igor Oblak and Tomaz Zerovnik) came t...
Kronprins Frederiks Bjerge, East Greenland. In June we visited the east coat of Greenland. We were climbing about 100 miles northeast of Angmagssalik in the Kronprins Frederiks Bjerge. We had Base Camp at 66° 59' N and 35° 40' W on the glacier at ...
Washington, Cliff Above Yale Dam—On March 1, late in the afternoon of a sunny day, Charles Haas (17) and Darrell Jones (18) decided to climb the cliff above the Pacific Power and Light Company’s powerhouse at the Yale Dam, Washington. Having no pr...
Red Rocks, Various Activity. Due the vastness of the area and the cracks and faces that characterize these pinnacles, several new routes have been added to the throng of classics gracing Red Rocks’ flame-colored features. Roxanna Brock and Gary Fi...
The Sphinx. A second ascent of the very airy S. or skyline ridge was made by Hans Kraus, Delphine Wilde and Roger Wolcott on 11 August 1946, from a bivouac on upper Dinwoody Glacier. A partially new traverse, beginning near the S. end of the E. fa...
Losar, ascent and possible future permit requirement. On January 10, 2006 Whit Magro and I climbed the stupendous frozen waterfall, Losar, which lies directly opposite Namche Bazaar. After 1½-hour approach, we took nine hours to reach the top, sim...
Gasherbrum I. A Japanese expedition led by Naoyuki Saeki hoped to climb a new route on the north face of Gasherbrum I. After an eight-day approach from Askole, they established Base Camp, Camps I and II at 5100, 5900 and 6450 meters on July 3, 10 ...
Maine, Monhegan Island Cliffs. On August 18, J. Robert Hamilton (36) and Fred Newcombe were doing a number of practice climbs on the cliffs of Monhegan Island. In mid-afternoon Hamilton was leading the second pitch of a climb. Newcombe, as belayer...
Merra, second known ascent, new route. During their acclimatization for Jannu, Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov made an ascent of 6,334m Merra in the Anidesh Himal directly north of the Kumbhakarna Glacier. The mountain received its first known a...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE-STRANDED,Alberta, Banff National Park, Mount HaddoOn July 21, after completing the North Glacier Route on Mounts Haddo and Aberdeen, a party of four began descending the “easy” south face of Mount Haddo as described in a lo...
Peaks Above the Matanuska Valley. Greg Higgins, Tom Choate and I made several climbs from the Matanuska Glacier from July 15 to 20. On July 16, we climbed Mount Wickersham (7415 feet) from the southeast, finding only two entries in the summit jar:...
Colchuck Balanced Rock, The Tempest. With a storm parked over most of the Cascades, I convinced Sol Werkin to change plans and head to the Enchantments, one of the driest spots in the range. Equipped with a full set of aid gear and extra clothing,...
Rock Climbs in Central Chile. Columbians Luis Andrés Romero and Marcelo Arbelaez made a new route in December 1982 on the south face of San Gabriel, 40 miles from Santiago in the Cajón del Maipo. This is probably the best rock climb in the Santiag...
On July 3, 2009, Dave Nettle and Reuben Shelton climbed a new route on the central buttress of the northeast face of Chamberlin. Innominata (5.11 A1) is mostly free, with two points of aid, and climbs all independent terrain. It starts with two ...
Ak-Su Valley, Various Ascents. It was reported that in September, 1995, the French team of P. Caribo, J.P. Calvet and A. Robert spent three weeks in the Ak-Su Valley, repeating Perestroika Crack on Slessova Peak after two days of preparation. The ...
Aconcagua, Descent by Parachute. A Frenchman, Alain Estève, first climbed Aconcagua solo but failed after four hours of effort to take off by a special kind of parachute (parapente). On January 10, accompanied by other French climbers, he returned...