Beyond the Vertical. Layton Kor. Bob Godfrey, editor. Alpine House, Boulder, 1983. 215 pages, color photographs. $35.00.Anyone growing up in Colorado and coming of age in Eldorado Springs can tell you that the name Kor stands second only to Moses ...
Everest, Post-Monsoon South Col Ascents and Attempt. A total of 32 climbers ascended Everest in the post-monsoon season, all via the South Col. On September 25, Spanish Basques Pitxi Eguillor, Patxi Fernández and brothers Alberto and Félix Inurrat...
In 2009 Edward Lemon and I formed part of a team that was the first to venture to the lower Sarychat Glacier. Problems with the drop-off location reduced our stay to only two days of climbing. We managed ascents of a number of minor peaks (AAJ 201...
Shigrila Attempt, Lahoul. An expedition led by me and composed of Britons Tony and Vicky Cuddy, Neal and Geraldine Goldsmith and Swede Nils Sjostrom attempted the south ridge of Shigrila (6247 meters, 20,496 feet) in June. We fixed 400 feet of rop...
Number ofTotalAccidentsReportedPersonsInvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN1951152211319523135171319532427121219543141318195534392861956467254131957455328181958323923111959422562310192196047464123781941961499611445101441962711901640191...
East Coast Rock Climbs. John Harlin III. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1986. 397 pages, black and white photographs, line drawings, maps. $22.00 (paper).This is the third volume of John Harlin’s ambitious Climber’s Guide to North America series. It pr...
Central Borkoldoy, Pik Tansovsitsa, north ridge; Alpinistka, west ridge; Pik Koldunia, south ridge; “Pik Borkoldoy” south ridge. The central area of the Borkoldoy Range in southeast Kyrgyzstan is a collection of superb alpine peaks, which are well...
Mazamas. The climbing school has become one of the most important programs of the Mazamas and was improved greatly this past year; 447 people registered for the course. The school is open to the public as well as to Mazamas. Bill Oberteuffer direc...
1951-19901991Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsTotalTotalDeathsPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta2617657415540British Columbia229894965126Yukon Territory292563000Ontario27650000Quebec21549000East Arctic7220...
Abi Gamin Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition of the Indian Corps of Engineers was led by Captain S.B. Vajramati. They set up Base Camp at Vasundahara Lake on September 12 and Camps I and II on the east Kamet Glacier at 6045 and 6450 meters. Camps I...
South Platte Rock Climbing and the Garden of the Gods. Peter Hubbel and Mark Rolofson. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1988. 292 pages, black and white photographs, route diagrams, maps. $19.95 (paper).Time was when most climbers would keep local crags ...
Nanga Parbat, winter attempt. The Italian Simone la Terra and the experienced Pakistani mountaineer Mehrban Karim attempted Nanga Parbat (8,125m) via the Diamir Face. They reached the standard base camp on December 3 and established Camp 1 on the ...
Wrangell/Saint Elias National Park. The 1996 spring and summer season in the Wrangell/Saint Elias National Park proved to be one of the most productive mountaineering periods ever for Ultima Thule clients, personnel and friends. In early April, Ru...
Beyond the SkylineAndrew John Kauffman, 2ndHALFWAY between the main transcontinental line of the Canadian Pacific Railroad and the northeast arm of Upper Arrow Lake stand the ramparts of the Battle Range. This remote, uncharted and almost legendar...
Karjiang attempt, Taptol Kangri and Kangmi Kangri first ascents. During the post monsoon season Rudolf van Aken, Pepijn Bink, Court Haegens, Willem Horstmann, Rein-Jan Koolwijk, and I attempted the first ascent of Karjiang South (7221m), the highe...
In a roundtrip of 40 hours from base camp and back, Jozef “Dodo” Kopold made an audacious first ascent, solo, of the central pillar on the east face of Annapurna South. His route, completed in early April, tops out more or less at the ca 7,100m no...
Washing ton, Mt. Erie Practice Bluff—On March 24, four members of The Mountaineers on a practice jaunt to Mt. Erie, decided to attempt the chute that can be seen from the road as a large crack in the main cliffs on the south side of the mountain. ...
RAPPEL FAILURE—INADEQUATE ANCHOR EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanAbout 1800 on July 31, Ik Tae Choi (23) died in a fall on the East Ledges descent route on El Capitan. Choi led 5.11, A3 and had six years climbing exper...
This is the thirteenth annual report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club. Only those accidents that occurred in the United States of America are included. In addition to the accidents of 1959, this report includes those reports of ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONQuébec, Mount Saint Hilaire, Dame Noire RouteOn May 31, M.L. (33), with six years of climbing experience, and C.M. were attempting Dame Noire (5.8). M.L. was leading in a dihedral, six meters above his second and...