On the Brink on Broad PeakCarlos Carsolio, MexicoBlackest night, silence … As Iapproach the edge, I feel frustrated by my sluggishness. I unconsciously tighten my grip on the shafts of my ice tools. The beam of my headlamp is lost in the unending ...
Areri and Chuchubalstering, Various Ascents. Also in the Hindu Raj massif (see above) was a group selected from previous members of the Jeunes Alpinistes FFME. Accompanied by Emmanuel Guy, they profited from the logistics of the UIAA expedition wh...
Crossing the Northern Continental Icecap. The expedition of Rokko Jesuit High School in Kobe consisted of Isao Ikawa, Mimio Matsunaga, Shuji Iwata, Hiroyuki Maekawa and myself as leader. On December 22, 1968 we all gathered in Puerto Eden and wait...
Paddle to the Peaks Expedition, first ascents between Maniitsoq and the Evigkels Fjord. Althea Rogers, Kelly Ryan, and I spent 65 days exploring the magnificent region between Kangerlussuaq and Maniitsoq. Mountains here rise directly from the sea,...
The Games Climbers Play, edited by Ken Wilson. London: Diadem Books Ltd., 1978. 688 pages, 35 black-and-white plates, 24 maps and cartoons. £ 8.50 (UK).The implicit premise behind Ken Wilson’s hefty new anthology is that the journal article is the...
On July 3 Viktor Mlinar, Tomaz Zerovnik, Aritza Monasterio, and I left Huaraz and took a bus to Chiquian, where we hired donkeys to get to the Cordillera Huayhuash. From July 4-6 we marched to base camp, which we placed at 4,300m, half an hour fro...
Yanashinga, West Face. One could consider Yanashinga (5,250m) the most technical and dizzying mountain of the Tíclio group. It is located 135km east of Lima and has only two routes and not a single repeat. The central highway reaches 4,818m, and t...
This is the fifth annual report of the American Alpine Club Safety Committee and the most encouraging report which the Committee has been able to publish. This Committee has attempted to describe and to make constructive comments on the causes of ...
Baudha. The Aichi University of Education Expedition had as leader Yutaka Nakai, as climbing leader Toshihiko Hanai and three other members. They made the second ascent of Baudha (21,890 feet) by a new route, the southeast ridge. Mixed ice and roc...
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.orgCajon de Maipo, various ascents I flew to Santiago in November with vague plans to make an excursion ...
The Mountaineers. The Seattle Mountaineers climbing program, under the leadership of Barbara McCann, expanded its traditionally alpine program by adding an introductory class on sport climbing. Enrollment in the alpine climbing courses has remaine...
Lassiter Coast, Antarctic Peninsula. A six-man U.S. Geological Survey party (Steve Boyer, Karl Kellogg, Peter Rowley, Dick Waitt, a Russian exchange scientist E.N. Kamenev and I) spent three months of the 1972-3 austral summer conducting reconnais...
Everest - Lhotse, 1956JÜRG MARMETTranslated from the German by H. Adams Carter.The two 1952 Swiss Mount Everest expeditions, on the first of which Raymond Lambert with the Sherpa Tenzing climbed to the highest point yet reached, also had serious s...
Mardi Phabrang Attempt, Southeast Kishtwar Himalaya. In late August, Mark Miller, Sean Smith, Tom Curtiss and I visited the Kaban Nala, approaching from Kishtwar via Galhar, Athole, Schol and Kaban in four days. We established Base Camp at 12,000 ...
Eyetooth and Sugartooth, Ruth Gorge. On June 17, Doug Keeting flew Tommi Bonapace, Raimund Haas and me to just below Mount Bradley in the Ruth Gorge. That afternoon, we skied to the gap due east of Mount Dickey to study the smooth west faces of ou...
This is the forty-fifth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the fourteenth that has been done jointly by the American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: Fewer accidents were reported this year than last year, and...
Kangshung Face of EverestJames D. Morrissey, M.D.OCTOBER 8, 1983—It was a day of patient dread and wild exultation, a day of incredible humor and expectant waiting. On this day those two elusive phantoms, dream and reality, met at the summit of Ev...
Alps Across the FootlightsJ. Monroe Thorington“Ay; now I am in Arden,” complains Touchstone, “the more fool I; when I was at home I was in a better place; but travellers must be content.” One recalls that mountaineers on occasion have paraphrased ...
Chiring Attempt and Tragedy. A Japanese expedition led by T. Shigetani established Base Camp at 4460 meters on the Chiring Glacier on June 3. Camps I and II were placed at 5050 and 5560 meters. On June 25 H. Kanda was killed when he fell into a cr...
The Challenge of Rainier, by Dee Molenaar. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1971. 332 pages, profusely illustrated with photographs and pencil sketches. $12.95.Just as “Mount Rainier in Washington State is many things to many people,” so will this super...