Fitz Roy, Slovak Route, third ascent and first free ascent; Desmochada, El Facón. Patagonian weather seemed like it was never going to let up this season for any long spell. Does it ever? December brought more snow than all of most winters. In one...
First Ascent of Mt. Drum. On June 4, 1954, the bush pilot, Herb Haley, flew Keith Hart from Chitna to a little meadow, southwest of Mt. Drum (12,002 feet), a place which Keith knew from a previous unsuccessful attempt on the mountain. George Schal...
CONCLUSIONThe accident record of American mountaineering has improved very substantially during the past five years. Although this fact is a source of much encouragement, the efforts which have contributed to this reduction must be continued unrel...
Torre Egger (2,850m), west face, attempt. In December 2011 and January 2012 Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo della Bordella made attempts to climb the west face of Torre Egger. They followed the large corner system on the left side of the face, which ...
Makalu. A Spanish expedition led by Joaquim Prunés was composed of Jordi Agulló, Jordi Anglés, Serge Benet, Antoni Bros, Josep Cañellas, César Comas, Adrià Font, Jaume Segura, Narcés Serrat, Jaume Sorolla and Francesc Zamora. They climbed the Kuku...
FALL ON ROCK - RAPPEL ERROR, INADEQUATE PROTECTION- OLD ANCHOR WEBBING PARTED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT - NO HEADLAMPSKentucky, Red River Gorge, Emerald CityOn November 4, the bodies of Benjamin Strohmeier (18) and Laura Fletcher (18) were found near ...
Mt. McKinley s Slovak RouteSeeking the vision in the Alaska RangeScott BackesDuring the long flight, I debated, internally and incessantly, the conundrum: Was I over it? Was I too old? Or did I need more? What was out there for me? Why go back aga...
The Mighty Sierra, by Paul Webster. Palo Alto: American West Publishing Co. 1972. 287 pages, over 200 illustrations, 70 color plates. $17.50Gentle Wilderness, The Sierra Nevada was published almost a decade ago by the Sierra Club as part of their ...
Autumn 2005-Spring 2006, summary. In 2005 climbing slowly began to pick up again in Wadi Rum, and just before Easter 2006 many climbers and trekkers were active. Visitors are advised to have travel and sports activity insurance, even if climbing w...
North Arête of Mount Stuart, Cascades. Mount Stuart, a huge granite peak, soars to 9500 feet above the Cashmere Crags and the country of Ingalls Creek. Most of the previous ascents were made on the south face. The north face was climbed once, by H...
Solo Ascents. I climbed Huayna Potosí on August 9, 1972, Sajama on August 15 and Illimani on August 23. All were solo climbs.Michael Kelsey, Unaffiliated
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING/LOOSE ROCK, UNROPEDCalifornia, Clyde MinaretOn June 22, 1991, Bruce Parker (45) and Kathy Moore set out to do the fourth class “Starr’s Route” on Clyde Minaret. The route has some high fourth and low fifth class rock with a l...
Everest West Ridge Attempt. The British Services Everest Expedition attempted to climb Mount Everest from Tibet via the west ridge in the premonsoon period. The members were 17 soldiers, ten sailors and Royal Marines, nine airmen and a TV crew. Fi...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, HANDHOLD FAILURE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cosmology CragAt 1515 on March 31, 1993, J.B., a member of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, contacted Bow Valley Provincial Park to report that an unidentified climber h...
CARLTON P. FULLER1898-1984Carl Fuller, a lifetime lover of the mountains, distinguished himself in many ways. Born in Mansfield, Massachusetts in 1898 and graduated from Harvard (Phi Beta Kappa) twenty years later, he became a successful banker in...
Thalay Sagar, north face attempt. A skilled team of seven Koreans, with considerable 8,000m experience, was led by Lee Sang Cho. They attempted to make the second ascent of the 1997 Australian-New Zealand Route up the Central Couloir. The climbers...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The year 1973 saw much activity by our members in the Wrangells and, of course, in the mountain ranges visible from Anchorage including the Chugach, Kenai, Talkeetna and western Alaska Ranges. With the aid of accommo...
LAWRENCE IRVING GRINNELL 1889-1985Lawrence Grinnell was not perhaps one of our most outstanding climbers, but rather an all-around outdoorsman, who enjoyed mountaineering, mountain hiking and whitewater river running for his personal pleasure and ...
ROCK FOOTHOLD CAME LOOSE – FALL ON ROCKWashington, North Cascades, Vesper Peak(The following account is edited from a narrative submitted by Steph Abegg, 27.)At 5:00 a.m. on September 14, I pulled up at my sister Jenny’s house in Seattle. We were ...
The Honboro Group and Shimshak (Mango Gusor) Mountains are located on the other side of the deep Hushe Valley from the better-known Charakusa and Nangma valleys. Andrzej Gluszek, Wojciech Kozub, and I visited these mountains from July 20 to August...