Gothic Peak, south face; The Stickle, south face. Fred Beckey recruited and led our party from Squamish and Pemberton, B.C. into the Adamant Range this summer. The trip produced two new high-quality free climbs on good granite. Our first and main ...
Gesellschaft Alpiner Bücherfreunde. The annual subscription to this Munich organization (founded 1928; Schellingstr. 39) is RM. 10, plus RM. 1.60 postage, for which one receives three to four books, usually rare classics in German translation. Its...
Khumbu Himal (Nepal), edited by Forschungsunternehmung Nepal Himalaya (Research Scheme Nepal Himalaya), Schloss Nymphenburg Nordflügel, Munich 19, Germany: 1965. Price $2.50.This excellent map finally gives us a highly accurate picture of the terr...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The club saw an increase in membership during the past year; over 200 members are now listed. An active climbing and hiking schedule was maintained throughout the year. Trips into the Chugach Mountains, the Alaska, T...
Jensenland, explorations of most northerly land. This was the seventh in a series of joint European and American expeditions to explore the peninsulas, mountains, and islands at the extreme North of Greenland. Our exploration of the world’s most n...
RUPRECHT OTTO KAMMERLANDER1940-1978You entered our lives as a warm wind on melting snow, a newness that startled and changed.You lived life on the edge, pulling us up with you at times to share the view.You climbed with us, laughed with us, cried ...
In the first week of May, Mark Allen and I set up base camp at Kahiltna International, then headed off for the rarely visited northwest fork of Lacuna Glacier. We had learned about the Lacuna the previous winter, while digging around for objective...
The First Ascent of Mt. CoppercrownA. A. McCoubreyMOUNT Coppercrown (10,218 ft.), is situated in the central Purcells at the source of Coppercrown Creek (a tributary of Toby Creek) and some twenty-five miles southwest of Lake Windermere, B. C.From...
The Unknown Mountain, by Don Munday. 8vo., 268 pp., photographs and map. London, 1948: Hodder and Stoughton, Ltd. Price, 21/-.The story of the exploration of the Mount Waddington area of the British Columbia Coast range has long called for a book;...
Makalu and Lhotse, the Last of Messner’s 8OOOers. Our expedition was composed of Reinhold Messner, Hans Kammerlander, Friedl Mutschlechner, Giuseppe Enzio, Fernando Bernascone, Wolfgang Tomaset, Denis Ducroz, Giuliano De Marchi, Sabine Stehle, Bri...
Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, previously unreported ascents. In 2004 Marco Kuppianen and I came close to onsighting Moby Dick. I fell on the 28th pitch and had to make a couple of aid moves on the 30th (7c+) pitch. We led in two blocks. Marco led the...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION—BAD FOOT PLACEMENT FOR SETTING PROWashington, Mount Erie, Snag ButtressI am a climber of about three years, much of that indoors. On October 26, my friend Mark, a very experienced climber, was tea...
Royal Society Range. The peak at 78° 50' S and 163° W terminates a ridge running east and west. From a camp near the junction of the Walcott and Radian glaciers I followed the obvious corniced ridge. The 2000-foot climb consisted of easy step kick...
Tasermiut fjord, Kirkespiret, Alpin Glow; Nalumasortoq, Nagguteeqqat. I first saw the granite walls of Tasermiut at a slide show in Murcia. After several years of climbing in the Alps and Yosemite, I was ready for them, but had done too much train...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTINCTSNorth Carolina, Table Rock, Talkin' 'Bout MudflapsDuring the morning of October 17, Jeff Pock (36) fell while climbing Talkin’ ’Bout Mudflaps (5.11) causing his first piece of...
Trisul. Trisul (23,360 feet) was attempted by a 24-member team from Baroda led by Deepak Ambegaonkar, who died on June 13 from a slip on the mountain.Sohli S. Mehta, Himalayan Club
Arctic DisciplineModem techniques and old-fashioned grit in the coldest pocket of Canada by Jack RobertsI was bored. Bored with all the sport climbing I had been doing and bored with most of the ice. Sure, the routes themselves were technical and ...
On Edge: The Life & Climbs of Henry Barber. Chip Lee, with David Roberts and Kenneth Andrasko. Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston, 1982. 291 pages, black and white photographs. $14.95.At age 28, Henry Barber makes a problematic subject for the ...
Bhrigupanth. We climbed Bhrigupanth (6772 meters, 22,220 feet), above the Kedar valley. First, we had hoped to climb Thalay Sagar, but there was too much snow. We established Base Camp, Advance Base, Camps I, II and III at 4000, 4600, 5300, 5500 a...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWest Virginia, Nelson Rocks PreserveWest Virginia State Police say Amanda Joy Crawford was climbing a “via ferrata” (iron way) at the Nelson Rocks Preserve in Pendleton County when she unhooked one of her lines t...