After a long journey in mid-July, Lisi Steurer (Austria) and I arrived in one of the most beautiful and wildest rock-climbing areas in the world, the Cirque of the Unclimbables, in Nahanni National Park. It was real Canadian wilderness—hard to ...
Fitz Roy, North Face. A Polish expedition climbed a new route on the north face of Fitz Roy between the Casarotto buttress and Afanassieff’s route. They were Piotr Lutynski, Wieslaw Burzynski, Miroslaw Falco-Sasal, Michal Kochanczak and Jacek Koza...
Kedarnath Dome. The Gangotri Glacier Exploration Committee, of which I am the President, organized an expedition to Kedarnath Parbat (22,770 feet).* The members were Amulya Sen leader, Pranesh Chakraborty, Biren Sarkar, Asit Bose, Sujal Mukherjee,...
Amin Brakk, Czech Express. Based on the experience of previous groups, we arranged to arrive in the Amin Brakk area at the end of June. The unclimbed west face of Amin Brakk, situated in the Nangma Valley, was the object of our interest. Our climb...
Sierra Nevada de Lagunas Bravas. Three years ago John Biggar’s book High Andes came out, listing three 6000+-meter peaks in South America as having “no known ascent.” “No known ascent is not the same as “no ascent,” and I figured these peaks were ...
Lhotse Shar. A South Korean expedition led by Park Shulam attempted to climb Lhotse Shar (27,504 feet) by a route slightly east of the one by which the Austrians made the first ascent in 1970. Their highest camp was at 23,625 feet. Choi Soon Nanam...
HuaynaPotosí, West Rib, Cordillera Real. In July of 1989, my wife Julie and I repeated the Lyon route on the massive west face of Huayna Potosí. Our attention was held by the 3000 feet of 50° to 65° ice, but we couldn’t help noticing the distinct ...
Phabrang. In June a nine-man Indian expedition climbed Phabrang (6172 meters, 20,250 feet). Leader Y.K. Puri, P.D. Dandriyal and high-altitude porter Devi Singh reached the summit. A second Indian expedition led by Kala Chand Chatterjee also attem...
Tasilaq Fjord, East Greenland. The Expedition of the Bavarian Friends of Nature were Hans Altheimer, leader, Dr. Ekkehart Otto, Dieter Sause, Klaus Niggel, Heinrich Handel, Josef Schrank, Toni Weg- gel, Ludwig Hausinger, Rolf Scofer and I. On July...
Cerro Altar, South Face Solo. On April 7, I made the second ascent of this face. It was mixed climbing. The crux was a UIAA VI-pitch on very rotten rock. Cerro Altar rises to 5222 meters or 17,132 feet.Dagoberto Delgado, Club Alemán Andino, Chile
FALLING ROCK, NOT FOLLOWING INSTINCTS Colorado, Ophir WallOn May 27, 1989, Katie Kemble (34), former owner and Chief Guide of Leavenworth Alpine Guides, Inc., and Ric Hatch were climbing on the Ophir Wall when this accident occurred. Katie sent in...
Yakshin Gardin Sar. Iñaki Aldaya, Alfredo Zabalza, Tomás Miguel and I left Pasu on June 6. We reached Base Camp in six days with 13 very good porters. We used the same Base Camp and the same route as the 1984 Austrian party. The first attempt ende...
Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park (2)—Little Matterhorn: On 31 July 1953, a party of nine girls was ascending the Little Matterhorn. This organized group had almost reached the summit when Miss Kathryn Rees (15) became startled at the movement...
New Routes in Canyonlands National Park, Island in the Sky District, 1992-3. I made the following new routes. In February, 1992, David Lindy and I climbed Thracian Mare, a curving seam on the narrow west face (III, 5.8, A3+); this is in Taylor Can...
British Columbia, Northern Selkirks, Mt. Colossal. On 19 July Margaret Bland (30) and Al Ramanauskas (29), participants in an Appalachian Mountain Club Climbing Camp organized by the New York Chapter Mountaineering Committee, and Donald Sprecker (...
Gorge Of Despair, Silver Turret, Desperadoes. I started Desperadoes (III 5.12a) with Guy Keesee in 1993. We returned for another attempt in 1995, but Guy suffered a knee injury on the third pitch and we were forced to retreat again. In July, 1996,...
DOUGLAS WILLIAM FRESHFIELD1845-1934In the death of Douglas W. Freshfield, at Forest Row, Sussex, on February 9th, at the age of eighty-nine years, the Alpine world loses one of its most characteristic figures, and a man whose career was synonymous...
Siruanch Glacier, Shambhu Ka Qilla, first ascent. On May 16 six members of a British expedition, Roland Arnison, Angela Benham, Chris Drinkwater, Titch Kavanagh, Andy Phillips, and myself (leader) made the first ascent of a previously unnamed peak...
Dharamsura. On June 29, leader Captain Adrian Phillips and Captain A. Ibbotson of the British Army and Indian Chamanlal reached the summit of Dharamsura.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
Trisul Attempt. American Arthur B. Ferguson led Griff Smith and Robert Wade to the west face of Trisul (7120 meters, 23,360 feet). They established Base Camp on June 14 and Advance Base on June 20, but the weather in June continued bad and they co...