Mt. Hood’s south side, about 24 hours after the avalanche on May 31, 1998. (A) The 300-foot crown fracture extended across the whole slope above Crater Rock, varying from one to five feet high. (B) The Hogsback bergschrund, below the Pearly Gate...
Schweizerland, Various Activity. From July 22-August 22, Britons A1 Powell, Kenton Cool, Pete and Andy Benson, Andy MacNae and Richard Spillet achieved ten free climbs and much sun bathing on south-facing walls at the head of the 16th September Gl...
The Boys of Everest: Chris Bonington and the Tragedy of Climbing’s Greatest Generation. Clint Willis. New York: Carroll and Graf, 2006. Black and white photos. 535 pages. Hardcover. $27.95.I confess my initial reaction to hearing the title of Clin...
Mount Everest, Northeast Ridge. The Nihon University Mountaineering Club and Alumni Association determined to mount an all-out effort to climb this long route, one of the two last remaining major unclimbed routes on Mount Everest, on the occasion ...
A Mes Montagnes, by Walter Bonatti. Translated into French from Italian by F. Germain, Collection Sempervivum No. 38. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1962. 291 pages, 41 illustrations, 5 maps and sketches.This superb mountaineering chronicle has more hair-rais...
A Joint Committee of the American Alpine Club and the Mountain Rescue AssociationIn this pioneer effort to report on alpine rescue in North America no attempt will be made to cover all rescue efforts. In future years, however, as the reporting pro...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Half DomeOn August 4 about 0800, two climbers reported to Ranger Steve Yu that one member of their party of five Koreans had broken his right leg in a fall the previous day on the Regular Northwest Face (VI...
Cerro Torre FreeBy an accident of timing, the long-coveted first free ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre takes place without Maestri’s holts as protection.David LamaI returned to El Chalten on January 12. My goal of free-climbing Cerro T...
Gothics East Peak and Sundry Other MattersAndrew John Kauffman, 2ndTWICE in my climbing career it has been my good fortune to join forces with the same two pleasant companions. It was on the 1946 St. Elias Expedition that my admiration for Bill Pu...
HENRY BALDWIN de VILLIERS SCHWAB 1887-1935It is hard to realize that Henry Schwab, my companion of three happy summers in the Canadian Rockies and good friend ever since, has gone. We first met in 1921, I having previously heard of him as a mounta...
California, Sierra Nevada, Middle Fork Lone Pine Creek (Whitney Portal). On 11 January Frederick C. Scheberies (27) arrived at the climbing area at approximately 9:30 a.m. with other climbers. He strapped on crampons and carried an ice axe, but wa...
AVALANCHECalifornia, Mount ShastaOn April 2, 1983, Wes Wagnon (31), Don Zimmerlin (30) and Julian Harrison (28) attempted a climb of the south side of Mount Shasta via the Green Butte Ridge. About 1400, noting that the weather was becoming unstabl...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, WEATHERAlaska, Mount ForakerOn April 6, the Talkeetna Ranger Station received mountaineering registration forms for Kevin Strawn (27), Travis Strawn (21) and Colby Strawn (15). They intended to climb both the West Rib on ...
Cuernos del Paine, Patagonia. Our group of four university students, José P. Pagano, Norberto Sampietro, Carlos Luis Bonfico and I, left Puerto Natales by truck for the Paine region, where with the help of ranchers, who provided horses, we set up ...
Baintha Brakk, Attempts. It was reported that Germans Jan Mersch and Jochen Hasse attempted the South Pillar on Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. the Ogre, 7285m), reaching 6250 meters. (High Mountain Sports 183)
The Fin, Fin Wall to summit ridge; Rogue Peak, first ascent, northeast face; Mantok 1, first ascent, All Talk Couloir. In early May on the northeast fork of the Yentna Glacier, Peter Doucette, Ben Gilmore, and Freddie Wilkinson climbed the remote ...
A Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada. By Howard Palmer and J. Monroe Thorington. 1930. Revised edition ; 244 pages. Now $1.25 to members; $2.00 to non-members.
Tulainyo Tower, East Face. One mile northwest of Tulainyo Lake is a large granite spire facing east into a cirque at the head of one of the forks of George Creek. If that sounds confusing, Tulainyo Lake is only two miles north of Mount Whitney as ...
Stanford Alpine Club. While the Stanford Alpine Club has not made any major ascents in the last year, it has organized several very successful outings. Notable was a five-day pack trip into Rainbow Bridge National Monument in April. This was well ...
LAWRENCE COOLIDGE1905–1950A life full of accomplishment and promise came to an untimely end with the death of Lawrence Coolidge on 3 January 1950, just two weeks before his 45th birthday.At college, where he rowed and played football, he was one o...