Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, llliniza, 1979. Swiss Dölf Zellweger, Fredy Kälin, Walter and Mario Zehnder, Hans Grätzer, Res Menzi, Austrian Horst Schwarz and Ecuadorians Hugo Alvarez and Nicolás Martínez climbed in Ecuador in December 1979. They ascended...
Mt. Awesome, North Face. Mt. Awesome (8,645'), an attractive peak on the west side of the Spectrum Glacier, saw an ascent in April. During the spring crust weeks, Matt Porter skied in to snag a solo ascent of the impressive north face. The route i...
Mount Tyr, East Peak Cumberland Peninsula. On August 5, Mary Little, John Shapiro, Mona Devlin and I climbed the east peak of Mount Tyr (1310 meters or 4298 feet). Scrambling up the side of a snow gully, our route eventually brought us out on a bu...
Routes on the South Face of Chacraraju. A number of routes have now been climbed on the south face of Chacraraju. These are marked on the photograph. Chacraraju Oeste: A. John Bouchard, Marie-Odile Meunier, Americans, 1977 (A.A.J., 1978, pages 486...
Canadian-New Zealand Andean Expedition. Lisle Irwin of Calgary, Ken Baker of Banff, Gerald Holdsworth of Christchurch, New Zealand and John Ricker of Nanaimo, B.C. climbed in the Cordillera Blanca in July and part of August. On July 18 the north p...
On September 18, following the first major snow of the year, Brian Wood and I established Psycho Therapy (1,200', 5.9+ M6 AI4) on the north face of Borah Peak. This route follows the obvious couloir and black shaft of rock on the far right side of...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Toulumne MeadowsAccording to James Hobdy’s climbing partner, Paul McCandless, Hobdy (27) was free climbing the Deimos Route on Polly Dome on August 9, 1981. He had placed two anchor pieces in a crack ...
Kedarnath and Kedarnath Dome. A 22-man Indo-Tibetan Border Police team was led by Y.C. Khanna. Base Camp was at Tapoban. At Camp II at 20,000 feet, occupied on April 3, they split into two groups. Four members, led by deputy leader S.P. Chamoli, l...
Environmental Security Deposit and Environmental Fees for Expeditions. Col. J. P. Bhagatjee, Director of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, states that the IMF does not take require environmental security deposits from visiting expeditions. How...
Even from the highway skirting the Wind River Range on the south the profile of a sharp buttress stands out clearly. Located on a subsidiary summit about two miles north of Little Sandy Lake, it provided Bob Stevenson and me with a fine one-day c...
P 12,659. In July Fred Beckey, Bill Lahr and I started out to complete a climb Fred, Jim States, Chris Kopczynski and I had attempted in 1985 when we failed in bad weather. Our objective was P 12,659 in the Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park. It l...
Atlantis. Several years ago Kent Wheeler identified an unclimbed buttress below and around the corner from his route Lost Cities. Kent has the eye of a tiger and experience of many years in the Black, so when he asked me to join him for a new rout...
Sisne, North Peak, Kanjiroba Himal. A Swiss expedition was composed of Daniel Chevallier, Pierre Galland, Jean-Claude Chautems, André Meillard, André Egger, Dr. Gilbert Villard and me as leader. We took 20 days to travel from Surkhet to Base Camp ...
Ellingwood, North Face; Fremont, West Face; Sacajawea, West Face; Arrowhead, South Face; Raid Peak, East Face; Peak 365, East Face. Fred Beckey and I completed four new routes in the impressive Fremont Peak area. On August 25 we climbed the north ...
Rock climbs along the John Muir Trail. While working on a story for the National Geographic, I skied the length of the John Muir Trail in February with David Wilson and Rob Mckinlay. We saw no one for the first 160 miles and made ascents of Mount ...
FALLING ROCKBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Lake O'Hara, Abbott PassTwo climbers were ascending the steep approach gullies to Abbott Pass from Lake O’Hara in Yoho National Park on July 25. They were packing heavy packs, planning a few days c...
Chiring We, Kalabaland Area. The Kalabaland Glacier lies east of the Milam Glacier. To the north lies Tibet, to the east, the Darma valley and western Nepal and to the south, the Chaudhara and Rajrambha peaks. Chiring We had never been attempted b...
Shivling Northwest Face Attempt. Tony Bedel, Dominique Julien and I had hoped to climb the 4000-foot-high northwest face of Shivling. We placed our tent at 17,725 feet above the bergschrund from which we thought we could make the climb in three da...
JAMES THOMAS MADSEN1947-1968On October 16 Jim Madsen was killed in a fall from the top of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. He died attempting to help his friends who were temporarily stalled by storms on the Dihedral Wall. They were in no danger, bu...
Mount Russell, Northeast Face. On June 10, Reed Cundiff and I made the first climb of this very alpine, slabby face. Terrible snow conditions prevented us from gaining the central slabs, so we were forced to settle for a less classic, but still va...