Club Activities AAJ
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club

Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The club’s Mountaineering Section began 1974 in possession of a small tract of land near Mouth of Seneca, West Virginia. A major goal for the year was the construction of a cabin on this site for the use of climbers...


Feature Article AAJ
St. Elias from the Sea: An Attempt on the South Face

St. Elias from The Sea: An Attempt on the South FaceWalter R. GoveSINCE THE MASTERY OF techniques for sustained climbing on big walls and for climbing of vertical ice, we have entered an era where virtually anything can be climbed. To read the cli...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Aconcagua Bites Back

Aconcagua Bites Back. The last two seasons on Cerro Aconcagua (22,800 feet) have been remarkably cold and windy, and authorities with Aconcagua Provincial Park report that unseasonably cold temperatures and high winds have made getting up even the...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

TABLE III1951-911959-9119921992USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock29253541207Snow1835277443Ice15162117River12300Unknown22600Ascent or DescentAscent263436512512Descent1652252495Unknown241110Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock1896183923Slip on snow or ice6681...


Feature Article AAJ
Petit Dru, West Face Direttissima

Petit Dru, West Face DirettissimaJohn Harlin*I started mixed climbing of an Alpine standard at an early age and found it much to my personal taste. I had never been very interested in pure rock climbing, despite its challenge; but a few years ago ...


Feature Article AAJ
Cho Oyu

Cho OyuVera KomarkovaDINA AND I MET up in Bangkok; she had arrived circuitously from Czechoslovakia and I from Antarctica, where I had been doing research, with a three-day stopover in Boulder, Colorado. In sunshine, we flew together to Kathmandu,...


Accident Reports ANAM
Protection Bolt Pulled Out, West Virginia, Meadow River

PROTECTION BOLT PULLED OUTWest Virginia, Meadow RiverLate in the day on June 23, a bolt pulled out while a climber was lowering off a sport route. The climber struck the ground and broke his leg.The accident took place at a crag along the Meadow R...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Dall Attempt, Alaska Range

Mount Dall Attempt, Alaska Range. In 1902 after a spectacular expedition up the Yentna River, during which he sighted the 8756-foot peak, Alfred Hulse Brooks named Mount Dall in honor of Henry Healy Dall (1845-1927): “one of the foremost students,...


In Memoriam AAJ
James Monroe Thorington, 1894-1989

JAMES MONROE THORINGTON1894-1989James Monroe Thorington, born in Philadelphia on October 7, 1894, died in nearby Germantown on November 29, 1989, at the age of 95. Roy, as his friends called him, was not only a distinguished opthalmologist, writer...


In Memoriam AAJ
Burge Bickford, 1906-1975

BURGE BICKFORD1906–1975September 1975 ended almost a lifetime of adventure in the mountains for Burge Bickford.His first ventures were with his father who was a guide in the Presidential Range of New Hampshire. Joining the Mountaineers in 1936 and...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Makalu Section, Makalu (8,485m), West Face, Attempt; Makalu II (7,678m), West Face, New Route

Makalu (8,485m), west face, attempt; Makalu II (7,678m), west face, new route. Our three-man expedition, which ran from September 12 to November 15, was plagued by difficulties from start to finish. We made two attempts to climb the west face of M...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, Mt. Foraker, North Face, and Circumnavigation

Mt. Foraker, North Face, and Circumnavigation. Historically, getting to the north side of Mt. Foraker has been a serious endeavor. The conditions of the terrain during the climbing season tend to be horrible; there is usually poor-quality snow, ra...


Book Reviews AAJ
Climb: The History of Rock Climbing in Colorado

Climb: The History of Rock Climbing in Colorado. Jeff Achey, Dudley Chelton, Bob Godfrey. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, second edition, 2002.200 b&w photos. 256 pages. Hard cover: $44.95. Paperback: $29.95.The Rocky Mountain’s Front Range a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Lobuje East (6,119m), Southwest Face, Night Terror Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal Khumbu Section

On October 29, Jared Vilhauer and I started up what we believe to be a previously unclimbed ice line on the southwest face of Lobuje East. We'd spotted it while making day hikes toward the Cho La (pass). Ice in the back of a prominent weakness cau...

| Published N/A | Author Joel Kauffman


Feature Article AAJ
Cerro Stanhardt

Cerro StanhardtJames BridwellFIVE DAYS AFTER LEAVING LOS ANGELES, Elisa Moran, Greg Smith, Jay Smith and I arrived at Fitz Roy National Park in the heart of Patagonia, the promised land. The promise is bad weather, but that of course allowed us ti...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Mahalangur Himal, Everest, Search for Andrew Irvine's Body

Everest, search for Andrew Irvine’s body. Amid much speculation about the fate of Andrew Irvine, members of the 1999 and 2001 Mallory and Irvine Research Expeditions joined the fray in 2004 to continue their efforts to locate the famous British cl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Mt. Blanca

Colorado, Mt. Blanca—On June 18, 14 members of the Los Alamos Mountaineers were camped below the N. Face of Mt. Blanca (14,364 feet). Plans called for the main party to ascend the NE ridge; two members (H. Hoyt, S. Landeen) elected to climb to the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Climbing Unroped, Inadequate Equipment, Colorado, Red Peak

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Colorado, Red PeakOn August 5, John Wood (20) and Christina Moir (28) had climbed to the ridge from the west side of Red Peak and came to the top of the couloir. Wood had glissaded the slope bef...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, North West Territories, Logan Mountains

Logan Mountains. Geoff Spedding and I spent five weeks of June and July climbing in the Ragged Range of the Logan Mountains, followed by two weeks on the South Nahanni and Liard rivers, which we descended to Fort Simpson. We flew in by jet helicop...


Feature Article AAJ
Mt. Stanford: A Alaskan Ski Climb

Mt. Sanford: An Alaskan Ski ClimbTerris MooreMT. SANFORD is remarkable because of its unique shape. Although presenting precipitous cliffs from the edge of its 16,206-ft. summit toward the S. and E. where it faces the rest of the Wrangell Range, i...