Spiti. The Cambridge University Expedition to Spiti comprised Mr. and Mrs. P. F. Holmes, Mr. and Mrs. H. A. Lamb, Dr. R. W. Hey, geologist,and me. We left Manali on August 10, 1955, and crossed the Rohtang Pass (13,050 feet) to the Chandra valley ...
IndiaGarhwalNilkanth, West Ridge, New Route. Between May 28 and June 3, a guided British expeditionled by Martin Moran made the first ascent of the west ridge of Nilkanth. This ice spire rising directly above Badrinath Temple is one of the most be...
Zaalayskiy Range, Kurumdy East, north rib. Our team of 11 Czech and Slovak climbers approached the Eastern Zaalayskiy Range by six-wheel-drive from the settlement of Sary Tash, on the rough Osh-Kashgar road near the Tajik border. When we could dri...
ROBERT LINDLEY MURRAY UNDERHILL1889-1983With Robert Underhill’s death on May 11, 1983, after a short illness, America lost one of its pioneers in the advancement of technical climbing. A quiet and unassuming person, he never advertised his exploit...
Mt. McKinley Map, Second ascent of Mt. Brooks, second and third ascents of Scotts Peak, Alaska Range. During the summer of 1953, the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey and Boston’s Museum of Science completed a long series of field observations which...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION AT RAPPEL ANCHORWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonAt approximately 1500 on August 15, Teton Interagency Dispatch Center (TIDC) received a cellphone call from Matej Bosak. Mr. Bosak reported that his...
BENJAMIN E. (TOM) KING1929-1985Tom King, a member of the southern California Section, died on September 15, 1985 while doing what he loved best. He was training in the mountains near Los Angeles for an expedition due to leave less than two weeks l...
The Ascent of Mt. GrenvillePolly PrescottMT. GRENVILLE, located about 15 miles as the crow flies N. E. of the head of Bute Inlet in the Coast Range of British Columbia, rises to a height of 10,200 ft. to dominate the vast Homathko snowfield and th...
The Mountaineers. During 1960 club membership grew to about 4100 people, with an accompanying sizable increase in mountaineering activities. In Seattle 427 persons registered for the Basic and Intermediate Climbing Courses, with the Everett and Ta...
TABLE III1951-891959-8919901990USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock27273309313Snow1744262388Ice1305664River12300Unknown19620Ascent or DescentAscent24333418013Descent15522325311Unknown2374531Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock17641637312Slip on snow or ice615...
McKinley-Hunter TraverseJ. Vincent Hoeman, Mountaineering Club of AlaskaLike the great Swedish explorer, Sven Hedin, who once convinced his Tibetan captors that it was against his religion to walk in his own footprints, we four McKinley climbers w...
Karcha Parbat. An 11-member team from Calcutta was led by Satyajit Kar. They trekked from Batal and set up a transit camp at Grelu Thach and on August 30 established Base Camp at 4900 meters. Camps I, II and III were at 5180, 5640 and 5945 meters....
The Quotable Climber: Literary, Humorous, Inspirational, and Fearful Moments in Climbing. Edited by Jonathan Waterman. The Lyons Press: New York, 1998. 20 Photos. 253 pages. $20.00.Put down the notebook you’ve been using to record your favorite qu...
Degrees Of FreedomFrom dry tooling to figure fours, M-climbing in the mountains is redefining the vision of what’s a climhahle line.Raphael Slawinski“We cannot solve problems by using the same kind of thinking we used when we created them.”–Albert...
60 Centuries of Skiing, by Charles M. Dudley. 202 pages, with numerous illustrations. Brattleboro, Vermont: Stephen Daye Press, 1935. Price $3.00.This volume, which is charmingly and profusely illustrated, is by no means a text book, but as one wi...
The West Ridge of Mount FairweatherWalter Gove and Loren Adkins, UnaffiliatedIn southeastern Alaska there is a peninsula, at one point only fifteen miles wide, where a dozen peaks tower more than two miles high above the sea. Half are unclimbed. F...
Going Higher, the Story of Man and Altitude. Charles S. Houston, M.D. Boston, Little, Brown and Company, revised edition, 1987. 324 pages, 39 black-and-white illustrations, bibliography. Price $10.95.This is the second revision of the book origina...
Peter Thompson and I visited three regions during the summer: Shimshal, Hispar, and Chapursan. In Shimshal we were accompanied by fellow U.K. mountaineers Ben Cheek and Gregory Nunn. We attempted six peaks, reaching the summits of four. Nearly all...
Mount Rainier’s Willis Wall in WinterJames F. WickwireFIRST climbed by Ed Cooper and Mike Swayne in 1962, Mount Rainier’s 4000-foot Willis Wall yielded to two other successful ascents in 1963 and 1965. The Cooper-Swayne route stays left of the 250...
Tambo, Churros Y AmigosOne crazy adventure on the southeast face of Jirishanca.Didier JourdainAfter a last long night in El Tambo, we took the bus directly the Cordillera Huayhuash. We had with us three weeks of food, which amounted to seven bags ...