CB 13. This peak (6264 meters, 20,550 feet) was climbed by its north ridge on August 18 by T. Itsumi, T. Yairi and two high-altitude porters. The other member was leader Yukio Matsukuma.
Kamet and Abi Gamin. This massif is the goal each year of a number of Indian expeditions trying the normal route. In 1992, Kamet and Abi Gamin were the objectives of at least five parties. One is described below. A group from Durgapur led by Swapa...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNew Hampshire, Rumney Cliff, Holderness School CrackOn July 3, I was leading Holderness School Crack, which I have climbed at least 20 times and led (in fact I led it before the accident). I scrambled onto the le...
Canada: Many thanks to Rod Plasman for compiling last year’s accident information.The number of accidents that occurred in 1999 was average in comparison to previous years. There was a noticeable increase in the number of accidents that occurred w...
Slovene Kangchenjunga ExpeditionTone Škarja and Marko Prezelj, Planinska zveza SlovenijeŠkarja begins:THE OBJECTIVES OF OUR EXPEDITION were three-pronged. We hoped to ascend several of the summits of Kangchenjunga from the west primarily by alread...
A First Ascent on the North Face ot Hallett PeakRay NorthcuttAT four a.m., on the morning of July 28, 1956, a shrill wail pierced the brisk mountain air at Emerald Lake, Colorado. On this particular morning, however, being awakened by an alarm clo...
New Mexico Rocky Mountains: In late October 1947, two girl secretaries from Los Alamos lost their lives on an icy slope of Truchas Peak (13,275 ft.), New Mexico’s highest mountain. One was 34 years old, the other 35. Having climbed the peak, they ...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Membership in our organization remained at about 350 members. The club maintained its past tradition of offering hiking and low-key climbing trips to members, mostly during the summer months. Training in the areas of...
Colorado, Cliff near Tunnel 3, U.S. 6. On February 2, Kenneth Cooper (16), a member of a Boy Scout group, was climbing alone. He walked up to a downward sloping ledge that ended in an abrupt cliff. As he traversed the ledge his foot slipped and he...
The Last Of His Kind; The Life and Adventures of Bradford Washburn,Americas Boldest Mountaineer. David Roberts. William Morrow, 2009. 352 pages. Hardcover. $25.99.I never understood Bradford Washburn.Or rather, I never understood his place in the ...
AAC, New England Section. Owing to the conjunction of the AAC’s national meeting in Boston with our Section’s Eighth Annual Dinner, we deferred the Eighth Annual for a year, putting our energies into the national gathering.In June we offered a coo...
While climbing a new route on Palung Ri in 2006 (AAJ 2007), I looked at the possibility of a new route on the northwest face of Pt. 7,570m, directly opposite. In 2011 I was on Cho Oyu, guiding a group on the Normal Route. On a day off I studied Pt...
Peaks 10,630' and 10,150', Possible New Routes. On May 7, Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air flew me into the upper Chisana Glacier at 8,400 feet. Taking advantage of the good weather, I set up camp and immediately started skiing toward the base o...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment PeakOn October 5 at 1245, John Jay Leach (23) fell to his death while climbing up cliffs above Amphitheater Lake. He fe...
The Love of Mountains Is Best. Robert H. Bates. Peter Randall, 1994. 473 pages, 150 photos. $35.00.On a high rock of the Swiss Alp, Niesen, an early Greek climber inscribed: “The love of mountains is best.” And so Bob Bates has entitled his unpret...
Grand Canyon National Park, Comanche Point, Comanche Ridge. In November 2000, while hiking the Escalante Route, I couldn’t take my eyes off the long skinny arete ascending from Tanner Rapids on the Colorado River all the way to the Grand Canyon’s ...
Mount Dickey’s South FaceFabio Leoni, Club Alpino ItalianoAFTER LEAVING ITALY, we first visited for some training climbs the Yosemite, where the weather was bad: snowy and cold. Manica, Zampiccoli and I did manage to climb El Capitan by the Triple...
Fairweather. Mount Fairweather (15,320 feet), one of the official boundary points on the Alaska-British Columbia border, is actually the highest point in British Columbia. Since it had never been climbed by Canadians, its second ascent was logical...
TABLE IV ResultsStateNumber of Persons LocatedNumber of Persons RescuedNumber of Bodies RecoveredArizona886California51469Colorado40225Montana320Oregon1370Washington221911Wyoming030TOTAL13710731As statistical reporting becomes routine and more com...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE FOOD AND EQUIPMENT California, Yosemite ValleyOn September 29, 1982, two climbers (22 and 21) called for help from the Iron Hawk route on El Capitan. An assessment of the situation revealed that one of them had injured his...