Accident Reports ANAM
Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (2) The Flatirons (near Boulder)

Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (2) The Flatirons (near Boulder). On 10 October 1948 a group of students from the University of Colorado climbed to the top of the first Flatiron by a short, easy route up the back. Two of them then decided to descend ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Range, Nanga Parbat, Various Ascents

Nanga Parbat, Various Ascents. It was reported that a number of teams made successful ascents of Nanga Parbat in 1997. A China-Pakistan expedition that fixed rope up to 7400 meters on the Diamir Face put eight climbers on top June 15. Two Japanese...


Book Reviews AAJ
Publications of the American Alpine Club

Publications of the American Alpine Club.The following publications may be obtained upon application to the Assistant Secretary at the Club Rooms. Prices include postage.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Peak 12,416, North Face

Peak 12,416, North Face. In September 1971 Jeanne Neale and I climbed five pitches of free climbing up a diagonal crack system. Moderate but continuous fifth class brought us to the virgin summit of the highest peak on Glacier Divide, a 15-mile-lo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure of Nut and Piton, Washington, Mount Garfield

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT AND PITONWashington, Mount GarfieldOn May 14, Frank Wells (33) and Craig Parsley (25) started an ascent of the South Face of the West Peak of Mount Garfield at 0700. At 1100, around the 1200-meter level, Wells fell, pu...


In Memoriam AAJ
Gustave Ernest Landt, 1894-1977

GUSTAVE ERNEST LANDT 1894-1977Gustave Landt was born in Highwood, Illinois, November 29, 1894, and died suddently of a heart attack on April 5, 1977, at his home inNorristown, Pa., survived by his wife, a daughter and three grandchildren.Gus reciv...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Mango Gusor

Mango Gusor. A Japanese expedition led by Tateshi Sudo is said to have climbed Mango Gusor (6288 meters, 20,630 feet). Details are lacking.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru?Cordillera Blanca, Taulliraju and Other Peaks

Taulliraju and Other Peaks. Our High-Mountain Military Group expedition was made up of Captain Jean-Pierre Charles, Dr. Emmanuel Cauchy, Adjutants Lionel Mailly and Hervé Farges, Sergeants Yves Tedeschi, Bruno Prom, Jean-Marc Gryska and Dominique ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan—Hindu Kush, Darban Zom Attempt and Accident, 1975

Darban Zom Attempt and Accident, 1978. Paddy Feely, Irish, Fred van Gemert, Dutch, Bob Milwood and I, English, in early August of 1978, made very good progress on the north side of Darban Zom (23,665 feet). After only two weeks our first summit at...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Mount Sally Serena and the Irish Peaks, Taurus Group, Purcells

Mount Sally Serena and the “Irish Peaks", Taurus Group, Purcells. On July 24 the A. Maki, C. Wagner, and R. C. West families began their backpacking up Irish Creek to camps at Tara and Shannon Lakes. Two days later Bob and David West made a first ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Yukon, St. Elias Range, Border Peak of Mt. Vancouver

Yukon, St. Elias Range, Border Peak of Mt. Vancouver. The 10-man Japanese party was flown to the Seward Glacier 28 May to attempt a new route, the SW Ridge, on the Border Peak of Mt. Vancouver, 15,700. A steep snow slope was utilized to reach a co...


Accident Reports ANAM
Probable Cornice Collapse, Weather, Yukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount Logan

PROBABLE CORNICE COLLAPSE, WEATHERYukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount LoganOn May 10,1987, a party of six was flown into the Seward Glacier on the base of the Hummingbird Ridge. Four of the party crossed the glacier and climbed Mount Augusta...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mount Everest, Ascent and Tragedy

Mount Everest, Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was organized by the Slovak Geographical Society of the Slovak Academy of Sciences with two parallel programs: scientific research and mountaineering. The research concerned the problems of nature ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, Parque Nacional Cascada de Basaseachic, Summary of Climbing on El Gigante

Summary of climbing on El Gigante. This year saw at least two repeats of Logical Progression and the establishment of two new long routes (described in the reports that follow this one). Neither ascent of Logical Progression was clean, so the rout...


Book Reviews AAJ
Against the Wall

Against the Wall. Simon Yates. Jonathan Cape: London, 1997. Distributed in the U.S. by Trafalgar Square, North Pomfret, Vermont. Color photographs. 176 pages. $35.00.Okay, let’s get this over with: Simon Yates is the guy who cut the rope on Joe Si...


Club Activities AAJ
Mazamas

Mazamas. During the year The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, started 128 climbs on 45 different peaks in their regular climbing schedule. In addition, club outings added many new peaks to the collective mountaineering experience of The Mazamas. The g...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Himalchuli North Tragedy

Himalchuli North Tragedy. Germans Dr. Wolfgang Weinzierl and Peter Wauer and South Tirolean Günther Einsendle set out for Camp I on October 15, hoping to pitch Camp II on the southwest ridge at 6500 meters. The only survivor, Siegfried Reiter, doe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Jethibohurani or Nampa South Attempt

Jethibohurani or Nampa South Attempt. Yasuo Ohsumi led eight climbers from Nagoya University. Their aim was to climb Jethibohurani or Nampa South (22,802 feet). They placed Base Camp at 12,300 feet on its west side. They reached 20,175 feet on Oct...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Suriname, Duivelsei, First Ascent

Duivelsei, first ascent. Intending to ascend an unclimbed mountain in the southern Suriname jungle, Gerke Hoekstra, Ronald Naar, and I traveled to Paramaribo in September. We chartered a small plane that flew us to an isolated airstrip south of th...


Club Activities AAJ
Explorers Club of Pittsburgh

Explorers Club of Pittsburgh. ECP enjoyed another active year in 1980. Membership has remained at about 150 (in line with the concept that “small is beautiful”). There was no snow or ice to speak of in western Pennsylvania. Energies normally devot...