Tasilaq Fjord, East Greenland. The Expedition of the Bavarian Friends of Nature were Hans Altheimer, leader, Dr. Ekkehart Otto, Dieter Sause, Klaus Niggel, Heinrich Handel, Josef Schrank, Toni Weg- gel, Ludwig Hausinger, Rolf Scofer and I. On July...
Cerro Altar, South Face Solo. On April 7, I made the second ascent of this face. It was mixed climbing. The crux was a UIAA VI-pitch on very rotten rock. Cerro Altar rises to 5222 meters or 17,132 feet.Dagoberto Delgado, Club Alemán Andino, Chile
FALLING ROCK, NOT FOLLOWING INSTINCTS Colorado, Ophir WallOn May 27, 1989, Katie Kemble (34), former owner and Chief Guide of Leavenworth Alpine Guides, Inc., and Ric Hatch were climbing on the Ophir Wall when this accident occurred. Katie sent in...
Yakshin Gardin Sar. Iñaki Aldaya, Alfredo Zabalza, Tomás Miguel and I left Pasu on June 6. We reached Base Camp in six days with 13 very good porters. We used the same Base Camp and the same route as the 1984 Austrian party. The first attempt ende...
Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park (2)—Little Matterhorn: On 31 July 1953, a party of nine girls was ascending the Little Matterhorn. This organized group had almost reached the summit when Miss Kathryn Rees (15) became startled at the movement...
New Routes in Canyonlands National Park, Island in the Sky District, 1992-3. I made the following new routes. In February, 1992, David Lindy and I climbed Thracian Mare, a curving seam on the narrow west face (III, 5.8, A3+); this is in Taylor Can...
British Columbia, Northern Selkirks, Mt. Colossal. On 19 July Margaret Bland (30) and Al Ramanauskas (29), participants in an Appalachian Mountain Club Climbing Camp organized by the New York Chapter Mountaineering Committee, and Donald Sprecker (...
Gorge Of Despair, Silver Turret, Desperadoes. I started Desperadoes (III 5.12a) with Guy Keesee in 1993. We returned for another attempt in 1995, but Guy suffered a knee injury on the third pitch and we were forced to retreat again. In July, 1996,...
DOUGLAS WILLIAM FRESHFIELD1845-1934In the death of Douglas W. Freshfield, at Forest Row, Sussex, on February 9th, at the age of eighty-nine years, the Alpine world loses one of its most characteristic figures, and a man whose career was synonymous...
Siruanch Glacier, Shambhu Ka Qilla, first ascent. On May 16 six members of a British expedition, Roland Arnison, Angela Benham, Chris Drinkwater, Titch Kavanagh, Andy Phillips, and myself (leader) made the first ascent of a previously unnamed peak...
Dharamsura. On June 29, leader Captain Adrian Phillips and Captain A. Ibbotson of the British Army and Indian Chamanlal reached the summit of Dharamsura.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
Trisul Attempt. American Arthur B. Ferguson led Griff Smith and Robert Wade to the west face of Trisul (7120 meters, 23,360 feet). They established Base Camp on June 14 and Advance Base on June 20, but the weather in June continued bad and they co...
Alps and Elephants, by Gavin de Beers. London: Geoffrey Bles, 1955. 89 pages; appendices and references; map. Price 10 s 6 d.Gavin de Beers’ very readable re-examination of Hannibal’s route across the Alps begins by testing the original narratives...
More Information on the Ascent of Mount Vaughan. In addition to the people named above, the party was also composed of Alejo Contreras Staeding, Robert Hart, Larry Engel and Peter Miller both from the National Geographic, Barry Berkus and me. Thre...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1988, with membership remaining at 1100. Over 1700 people participated in one of the many instructional courses, mountaineering camps, or foreign expeditions that were from one to four w...
On May 21, Craig Johnson (26) was at the crux move on Intimidation (5.10) trying to place protection, but could not. So he “went for it.” He made the crux and was about to put in protection when he slipped off “polished, moist rock.” He fell 20 ...
Ama Dablam, Lagunak Ridge, attempt. Between October 1 and November 2, Tina Di Batista and I were members of a Slovenian Jubilee expedition to Ama Dablam. The expedition was organized to honor the 30th anniversary of the first Slovenian ascent of a...
Tennessee, Great Smoky Mountains National Park. On May 6, Charles Smith Sample (14) apparently attempted to climb a cliff above The Chimneys camp grounds. He apparently fell over 50 ft. and was dead when found.Source: Newspaper clipping.
Peak 4810, Northwest Face. It was reported that Viktor Komarov, Kostya Sakharov, Anatoli Vinokurov and Alexander Shcherbakov climbed the vertical to overhanging 1200-meter-plus Red Pillar on the northwest face of Peak 4810 in mid-July, 1994. Three...
Aconcagua, First Chilean Winter Ascent. From September 6 to 24 we made the first Chilean winter ascent of Aconcagua. We used skis from 3200 meters in the Horcones valley to the base of the Canaleta at 6800 meters. We climbed the north face, using ...