Shispare, Batura Muztagh. The Polish-German Academic Expedition climbed the virgin summit of Shispare. The members were Leszek Cichy, Miroslaw Dabrabowski, Marek Grochowski, Jan Holnicki-Szulc, Dr. Piotr Kintopf, Ryszard Marcjoniak, Andrzej Mlynar...
Manaslu North Attempt. Five Frenchmen led by Michel Richard attempted to climb Manaslu North (7157 meters, 23,481 feet) by the northeast face to reach the south ridge. On October 23, they reached their high point of 6400 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Trango Group, various new routes; tower northwest of Garda Peak, first ascent; Trango Tower, attempts. Two Polish teams operated separately from the Trango Glacier during August and September. One comprised Maciej Ciesielski, Wawrzyniec Zakrzewski...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Alaskan mountaineers were again active in the Alaskan, Brooks, Talkeetna, and Chugach ranges. A highlight was the second ascent of Mount Deborah via a new route by Brian Okonek, Pat Condran, Mark Hotman, Dave Pettigr...
Thulagi (7,059m), attempt. Nine Japanese led by the well-known Himalayan explorer, Tamotsu Ohnishi, made the first known attempt on Thulagi, a southwestern outlier of Manaslu (8,163m) that was opened for climbing by the Nepalese government in 2003...
Black Peak, Northwest Face. On August 27 my brother Carl and I, from Wing Lake, crossed the northeast col and descended to Shelockum Glacier. We ascended the glacier to gain a rib on the face which led directly to the summit. NCCS II, F5.Gordon R....
Cirque of the Towers Traverse. When our party of six arrived in the Cirque of the Towers, Dick McCracken and Charlie Raymond and I were immediately struck by two fine challenges: the unclimbed south face of the Watchtower and a traverse of the Cir...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallOn September 10, 1994, a climber (30) was leading on “Blackwalk” (5. l0b/c) on Red Garden Wall. He was 30 feet off the ground and five feet above...
Mt. Huber. G. Collier was of the party which made the first ascent in 1903 (E. Tewes, C. Bohren, C. Kaufmann). Their route, little likely to be repeated, is not given in the Guidebook, but is nevertheless remarkable. Leaving the chalet at Lake Lou...
Deo Tibba and Shilla. An All-India University Students Expedition led by R. Jaikumar climbed Deo Tibba in July. The main objective of this party was, however, Shilla, once reported as over 23,000 feet when it was first climbed a hundred years ago ...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AssiniboineOn 1 August 1979, Edward Donn (39) and Vic Beresford (24) were descending Mt. Assiniboine at 930 hours after reaching the summit. Beresford easily crossed a six-fo...
Premiere Buttress. The first climb of this sloping, rounded buttress, just above the last road switchback at Whitney Portal, was made on November 17 by Brian Gochoel and me in 5½ leads. The rock is excellent granite, with numerous chickenheads tha...
Langtang Lirung, Winter Ascent and Attempt. Two Japanese teams attempted the normal route, the southeast ridge of Langtang Lirung (7234 meters). The first party consisted of eight Japanese and four Sherpas under the leadership of Koichi (also spel...
Condorini, Acamani and Other Peaks, Southern Apolobamba*. Our expedition was composed of Régis Cazes, Philippe Couture, Xavier Mes- saut, Serge Renner and me. While acclimatizing, we left La Paz on July 15, headed for Huayna Potosí and climbed to ...
The Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The club now has a membership of over 100 persons and has maintained an active climbing schedule throughout the year. Although the club has not sponsored any major expeditions this year, individual members have d...
Lindbergh Fjelde, Various Activity. On July 25, Paul Walker of Tangent Expeditions International flew a team comprising Ralph Atkinson, James Berry, Luke Francis, David Howe, Phil and Anita Jones, Malcolm Minchin and Owain Turner into the Lindberg...
Ancohuma, West Face, and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. As training for a Himalayan expedition to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Club Andino Bariloche, we organized this expedition to Bolivia. The climbers were Pablo Hülskamp, Alejandro Ro...
Nanga Parbat, Attempt on Rupal Face. The eleventh German expedition to the mountain, led again by Dr. Karl M. Herrligkoffer, made an attempt to climb the 15,000-foot-high Rupal or South Face of Nanga Parbat (26.660 feet). If it had been successful...
Gangapurna, Glacier Dome and Tent Peak. The members of our expedition were Günther Hauser, leader, Ludwig Greissl, Hermann Wünsche, Hermann Köllensperger, Otto Seibold, Erich Reismüller, K. H. Ehlers and myself. We set up Base Camp at 12,000 feet,...
Peak 29 (25,705 feet), sometimes called Manaslu II or Dakura Himal, is located between Manaslu (26,760 feet) and Himalchuli (25,895 feet). It was Nepal’s highest unclimbed mountain. Yet it was nearly an unknown peak when we started our exploration...