Matakoyaré, Northwest Face. On January 26, Toni Galvan, Joan Sole, and Jenny Lafarga (Spain) established the new route Buen Rollete Dogoncete (6a, 300m) on the northwest face of Matakoyaré. The peak lies along the route from Banako to Gao. Further...

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, LOST ICE AX Colorado, Maroon BellsOn July 26, 1986, Greg Mace (42) and three other Mountain Rescue-Aspen members departed on a scheduled training exercise to scout alternative evacuation routes and to locate he...

FROSTBITE, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE FOOD, LOST EQUIPMENT Washington, Mount Rainier National Park, Ptarmigan RidgeOn February 1, Chris Bamer (25) and Robert Montague (28) set out to ascend Ptarmigan Ridge. Both were guides for Rainier Mountaineering I...

Sia Chhish, Batura Group. [This peak lies southwest of Hachindar Chhish.—Editor.] Our expedition was composed of Enrico De Luca, Giam- piero Di Federico, Eugenio Di Marzio, Sandro Pucci, Giuseppe Ricciuti and me as leader. From Gilgit we traveled ...

Nevado Llongote, Los Pecados se Rien!, I-Célines, and Longue, Haute, et Magnifico. Two teams of young French climbers sponsored by the FFME visited the unfrequented Nevado Llongote massif in August. A group of four young men was joined toward the ...

Ost-Tirol, Land-Volk-Kunst, by Franz Kollreider. 46 pages of trilingual text and 120 full-page photographs by Jahn-Dietrichstein. Innsbruck: Der Tiroler Graphik, 1951. Price, $2.50.This is the first book dealing exclusively with the country, peopl...

Passu I and II Ascents and Nanga Parbat Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Yoshitoyo Oishi, Katsuto Soejima, Naoya Yamasaki, Koji Yamauchi, Dr. Tetsuro Nishida and me as leader. We climbed the Passu peaks from the east. Our route went up the Pas...

Central Lahul. Under the leadership of Hamish McArthur, a small expedition consisting of Mrs. McArthur, Mr. and Mrs. Frank Solari, and Captain and Mrs. K. Goswami, entered Spiti on July 23, 1955. From a camp near Shitakar they made a plane table s...

Asgard Peak, North Ridge, Valhalla Mountains, Southern Selkirks. On September 2 Shari Nelson and I climbed the north ridge of Asgard Peak. We followed the ridge crest, traversing when necessary. NCCS III, F7.Alan J. Kearney, Mazamas

Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park: (3) On August 7, 1952 Charles Mahan (20), slipped on a steep snowfield on Ypsilon Mountain while on a Y. M. C. A. Conference hike. He slid into a rock pile, fractured his left collar bone, and lacerated his l...

Climbs in Auyuittuq National Park, Cumberland Peninsula. In June, Germans Frank Jourdan and Wilhelm Alfred attempted two climbs both of which were turned back before they reached the summit by extremely cold snowstorms. They climbed 11 pitches on ...

California, Sierra Nevada, Rae Lakes. On 4 April Keith Stampher (18) and Randy Jolly (17) proceeded to the Rae Lakes area from their homes near Santa Barbara. Two days later and two 12,000-foot passes later, they reached their destination at the u...

FALLING ROCK, WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Mount ShastaIn early January, Lorca Rossman (19), Roman Hruska (19), and Nic Rhind (23) were turned back from their summit attempt due to high winds which were blowing rocks down from the ridge...

Danga II, First Ascent. We set out from the airstrip at Suketar, some 60 kilometers southwest of Danga, on April 18. There were seven of us: my son Daniel, my brother Gerald and my nephew James; Daniel’s wife Jude; her brother David; our local doc...

Churen Himal, Central Summit. Our team consisted of Christopher Burt, Henry Chaplin and Roger Pyves and me as leader, as well as Sherpas Ang Jangbo and Lkakpa Gyalu. We completed the third ascent of the central summit of Churen Himal. There are th...

Chicllarazo, Cordillera de la Apacheta, and other climbs. Chuquichanca (Cordillera Vilcanota) revisited. The Apacheta is the first high pass (15,436 feet, 4705 meters) on the Via de los Libertadores from Ayacucho to the coast, not far from Lircay’...

Ramjak, first ascent. An Indian Mountaineering Foundation expedition led by Sangay Dorjee Sherpa made the first ascent of Ramjak (6,318m). This peak has attracted many climbers in the past, including attempts by IMF expeditions in 2000 and 2001. A...

Kulu Pumori. A training expedition of the Western Himalayan Mountaineering Institute climbed this beautiful peak, which rises above Concordia in the center of the Bara Shigri Glacier. On August 15, three groups reached the peak, led by Instructor ...

Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley. As the Journal goes to press, we receive word of the successful winter ascent of Mount McKinley, completed on March 1 by Art Davidson, Dave Johnston and Ray Genet. The party was flown to the Kahiltna Glacier on Jan...

1953 Expeditions. This year promises to be one of the most active ever in the Himalayas. A British expedition* under Col. John Hunt, consisting of 12 members with 4 in reserve, is leaving for Everest in February for another try at the southern rou...