Environmental Security Deposit and Environmental Fees for Expeditions. Col. J. P. Bhagatjee, Director of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, states that the IMF does not take require environmental security deposits from visiting expeditions. How...
Even from the highway skirting the Wind River Range on the south the profile of a sharp buttress stands out clearly. Located on a subsidiary summit about two miles north of Little Sandy Lake, it provided Bob Stevenson and me with a fine one-day c...
P 12,659. In July Fred Beckey, Bill Lahr and I started out to complete a climb Fred, Jim States, Chris Kopczynski and I had attempted in 1985 when we failed in bad weather. Our objective was P 12,659 in the Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park. It l...
Atlantis. Several years ago Kent Wheeler identified an unclimbed buttress below and around the corner from his route Lost Cities. Kent has the eye of a tiger and experience of many years in the Black, so when he asked me to join him for a new rout...
Sisne, North Peak, Kanjiroba Himal. A Swiss expedition was composed of Daniel Chevallier, Pierre Galland, Jean-Claude Chautems, André Meillard, André Egger, Dr. Gilbert Villard and me as leader. We took 20 days to travel from Surkhet to Base Camp ...
Ellingwood, North Face; Fremont, West Face; Sacajawea, West Face; Arrowhead, South Face; Raid Peak, East Face; Peak 365, East Face. Fred Beckey and I completed four new routes in the impressive Fremont Peak area. On August 25 we climbed the north ...
Rock climbs along the John Muir Trail. While working on a story for the National Geographic, I skied the length of the John Muir Trail in February with David Wilson and Rob Mckinlay. We saw no one for the first 160 miles and made ascents of Mount ...
FALLING ROCKBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Lake O'Hara, Abbott PassTwo climbers were ascending the steep approach gullies to Abbott Pass from Lake O’Hara in Yoho National Park on July 25. They were packing heavy packs, planning a few days c...
Chiring We, Kalabaland Area. The Kalabaland Glacier lies east of the Milam Glacier. To the north lies Tibet, to the east, the Darma valley and western Nepal and to the south, the Chaudhara and Rajrambha peaks. Chiring We had never been attempted b...
Shivling Northwest Face Attempt. Tony Bedel, Dominique Julien and I had hoped to climb the 4000-foot-high northwest face of Shivling. We placed our tent at 17,725 feet above the bergschrund from which we thought we could make the climb in three da...
JAMES THOMAS MADSEN1947-1968On October 16 Jim Madsen was killed in a fall from the top of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. He died attempting to help his friends who were temporarily stalled by storms on the Dihedral Wall. They were in no danger, bu...
Mount Russell, Northeast Face. On June 10, Reed Cundiff and I made the first climb of this very alpine, slabby face. Terrible snow conditions prevented us from gaining the central slabs, so we were forced to settle for a less classic, but still va...
After a long journey in mid-July, Lisi Steurer (Austria) and I arrived in one of the most beautiful and wildest rock-climbing areas in the world, the Cirque of the Unclimbables, in Nahanni National Park. It was real Canadian wilderness—hard to ...
Fitz Roy, North Face. A Polish expedition climbed a new route on the north face of Fitz Roy between the Casarotto buttress and Afanassieff’s route. They were Piotr Lutynski, Wieslaw Burzynski, Miroslaw Falco-Sasal, Michal Kochanczak and Jacek Koza...
Kedarnath Dome. The Gangotri Glacier Exploration Committee, of which I am the President, organized an expedition to Kedarnath Parbat (22,770 feet).* The members were Amulya Sen leader, Pranesh Chakraborty, Biren Sarkar, Asit Bose, Sujal Mukherjee,...
Amin Brakk, Czech Express. Based on the experience of previous groups, we arranged to arrive in the Amin Brakk area at the end of June. The unclimbed west face of Amin Brakk, situated in the Nangma Valley, was the object of our interest. Our climb...
Sierra Nevada de Lagunas Bravas. Three years ago John Biggar’s book High Andes came out, listing three 6000+-meter peaks in South America as having “no known ascent.” “No known ascent is not the same as “no ascent,” and I figured these peaks were ...
Lhotse Shar. A South Korean expedition led by Park Shulam attempted to climb Lhotse Shar (27,504 feet) by a route slightly east of the one by which the Austrians made the first ascent in 1970. Their highest camp was at 23,625 feet. Choi Soon Nanam...
HuaynaPotosí, West Rib, Cordillera Real. In July of 1989, my wife Julie and I repeated the Lyon route on the massive west face of Huayna Potosí. Our attention was held by the 3000 feet of 50° to 65° ice, but we couldn’t help noticing the distinct ...
Phabrang. In June a nine-man Indian expedition climbed Phabrang (6172 meters, 20,250 feet). Leader Y.K. Puri, P.D. Dandriyal and high-altitude porter Devi Singh reached the summit. A second Indian expedition led by Kala Chand Chatterjee also attem...