Book Reviews AAJ
Un Pionero de Bariloche, otto Meiling

Un Pionero de Bariloche: Otto Meiling. Vojslav Arko. Bavaria y Cía., Bar- iloche, Argentina, 1991. 125 pages, 58 black-and-white illustrations, 6 sketch-maps. Paperback.Sitting at the gates of Argentinian Patagonia, Bariloche (population: 100,000)...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Crillon, West Ridge

Mount Crillon, West Ridge. Terry Cline, Dave Dahl, Bruce Tickell and I left Lituya Bay in early July and on July 6 after several days of packing loads through the endless moraine of the North Crillon Glacier established Base Camp in the cirque b...

| Keywords
| Published 1977 | Author Walter Vennum


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Snow, Avalanche, and Inexperience – British Columbia, Mount Robson, Kain Face

SLIP ON SNOW, AVALANCHE, AND INEXPERIENCE—British Columbia, Mount Robson, Kain Face. Brian Darragh, Claude Ribordy, Jan Straith, Frank Campbell, and Robin White were descending the ridge bordering the Kain Face of Mt. Robson on July 30 due to bad ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, South Early Winter Spire, Southeast Face

South Early Winter Spire, Southeast Face. In July, 1977 Duane Constantino and I completed in a single day a route which I had begun a year earlier on the southeast face of South Early Winter Spire. The route begins just right of the center of the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Region, Janak Himal, Janak (Outlier Peak) (7,044m), Attempt

Janak (Outlier Peak) (7,044m), attempt. In November two members of a Romanian team led by Constantine Lacatusu were the first to climb on to Janak above the upper plateau of the Broken Glacier. This summit west of Jongsang was referred to as Outli...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat. Our Catalan expedition was composed of Jordi Bosch, Pep Permañé, Ramón Estiu, Xavier Robiró, Iñaki Garijo and me as leader. We climbed the Kinshofer route on the Diamir flank. We established Base Camp and Camps I, II, III and IV at 4...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Kumaon and Garhwal Himalaya, Chaukhamba II, Chaukhamba I, and Unnamed Peak, First Ascents

Chaukhamba II, Chaukhamba I, and Unnamed Peak, First Ascents. An expedition mounted by the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi, and led by Col. M.P. Yadav succeeded in climbing to the summits of Chaukhamba I (7068 meters) via the southwe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Idaho, Sawtooth Range, Packrat, North Face

Packrat, North Face. Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and I made the first ascent of the north face of Packrat on September 21. From the center of the base of the face we worked our way up angling ledge systems to the base of the largest slab, which we by...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California - Sierra Nevada, Peak 11,598, East Face and Peak 11,830, East Ridge

Peak 11,598, East Face and Peak 11,830, East Ridge. There was a definite allure about the sound of Big Bird Lake; we might be carried off by a pterodactyl, and besides there were supposed to be some good climbs in the area. Greg Henzie, Galen Rowe...


Club Activities AAJ
Alpine Club of Canada

Alpine Club of Canada. Following are highlights of the A.C.C.’s 1989 achievements. In the facilities area, 1989 marked the completion of the Wapta Icefields project, whose centerpiece was the July construction of the new Bow Hut. This project repr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, To the North Pole Solo

To the North Pole Solo. The Japanese Naomi Uemura made a solo dog-team trip from Ellesmereland to the North Pole, which he reached on April 30. He was supported by aircraft which then airlifted him back to his base and then to the northern tip of ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Langtrang Himal, Attempts and Ascents Nepal, Langtrang Himal

Osaka City University Himalayan Expedition consisted of Takeo Suzuki, leader; T. Kondo, Y. Kadota, T. Kiyohara, A. Ban, K. Jokei and S. Sasaki. We tried to climb Langtrang Lirung (23,750 feet) from the south ridge and reached the height of 18,850 ...

| Keywords Langtang Himal, Langtang Lirung
| Published N/A


In Memoriam AAJ
William Hearrell Robins, 1957-2002

William (Bill) Hearrell Robins 1957-2002Bill Robins, 45, died on July 7 while attempting a technical climb on the northeast face of Bolivia’s 17,159-foot Pyramide Blanca of the Cerro Condoriri group.Bill was born on July 3, 1957, in Salt Lake City...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Torre Egger Attempt

Torre Egger Attempt. An Italian expedition led by Aldo Gross and composed of 16 guides from the Fassa valley failed to climb a new route, the east face of Torre Egger in December, 1976.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Ecuador, Chimborazo, Lesser Summits

Chimborazo, Lesser Summits. The two easternmost peaks of Chimborazo had remained so far unclimbed. They were traversed on May 20, 1979 by the Ecuadorians W. Villacís and O. Omar, of the Polytechnical School of the Ecuadorian army. These summits re...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Mt. Amulet, North Face

Mt. Amulet, North Face. Heading east on the Glenn Highway, there is a great clump of peaks to the south across the Matanuska River opposite the Victory Bible Camp. The Spectrum Glacier that Monument Creek flows from has been visited often in the p...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic—Baffin Island, Killabuk and Other Peaks

Killabuk and Other Peaks. A Belgian expedition led by Alain Grignard seems to have run into very poor weather from July 7 to 24. On July 7 J.C. Sonnenwyl, P. Morand, E. Blanc (Swiss), and B. Legros climbed the east face of Mount Killabuk by the di...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Pisco Oeste, Chopicalqui, and Chacraraju

Pisco Oeste, Chopicalqui, and Chacraraju. The Alpine Club Impol of Slovenska Bistrica expedition was composed of Ivan Šturm, Marjan Frešer, Francek Knez, Janko Korent, Matjaž Peckovnik, Milan Romih, Dani Tic and Dr. Tone Žuntar. On June 4 Knez and...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Ishinca and Ranrapalca, Cordillera Blanca

Ishinca and Ranrapalca, Cordillera Blanca. In late April two friends from the University of British Columbia, Hamish Mutch and Gordon Dunham, turned up in Lima. Here was an opportunity to visit the range in the off-season. We decided on the Quebra...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Idaho, Peak 11, 308', White Line Couloir

Peak 11, 308', White Line Couloir. In May, Travis Michaelis, Abe Dickerson, and I made the first complete ascent of the 1,200-foot White Line Couloir, on Peak 11,308' (2.3 miles sou:hwest of Borah Peak, in the Lost River Range). I previously climb...