Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia—Cordillera Apolobamba, Condorini, Acamani and Other Peaks, Southern Apolobamba

Condorini, Acamani and Other Peaks, Southern Apolobamba*. Our expedition was composed of Régis Cazes, Philippe Couture, Xavier Mes- saut, Serge Renner and me. While acclimatizing, we left La Paz on July 15, headed for Huayna Potosí and climbed to ...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineering Club of Alaska

The Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The club now has a membership of over 100 persons and has maintained an active climbing schedule throughout the year. Although the club has not sponsored any major expeditions this year, individual members have d...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Northeast, Lindbergh Fjelde, Various Activity

Lindbergh Fjelde, Various Activity. On July 25, Paul Walker of Tangent Expeditions International flew a team comprising Ralph Atkinson, James Berry, Luke Francis, David Howe, Phil and Anita Jones, Malcolm Minchin and Owain Turner into the Lindberg...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, West Face, and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real

Ancohuma, West Face, and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. As training for a Himalayan expedition to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Club Andino Bariloche, we organized this expedition to Bolivia. The climbers were Pablo Hülskamp, Alejandro Ro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Attempt on Rupal Face

Nanga Parbat, Attempt on Rupal Face. The eleventh German expedition to the mountain, led again by Dr. Karl M. Herrligkoffer, made an attempt to climb the 15,000-foot-high Rupal or South Face of Nanga Parbat (26.660 feet). If it had been successful...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna, Glacier Dome and Tent Peak

Gangapurna, Glacier Dome and Tent Peak. The members of our expedition were Günther Hauser, leader, Ludwig Greissl, Hermann Wünsche, Hermann Köllensperger, Otto Seibold, Erich Reismüller, K. H. Ehlers and myself. We set up Base Camp at 12,000 feet,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Peak 29 Nepal

Peak 29 (25,705 feet), sometimes called Manaslu II or Dakura Himal, is located between Manaslu (26,760 feet) and Himalchuli (25,895 feet). It was Nepal’s highest unclimbed mountain. Yet it was nearly an unknown peak when we started our exploration...

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| Published 1970 | Author Senya Sumiyoshi


Accident Reports ANAM
Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (2) The Flatirons (near Boulder)

Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (2) The Flatirons (near Boulder). On 10 October 1948 a group of students from the University of Colorado climbed to the top of the first Flatiron by a short, easy route up the back. Two of them then decided to descend ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Range, Nanga Parbat, Various Ascents

Nanga Parbat, Various Ascents. It was reported that a number of teams made successful ascents of Nanga Parbat in 1997. A China-Pakistan expedition that fixed rope up to 7400 meters on the Diamir Face put eight climbers on top June 15. Two Japanese...


Book Reviews AAJ
Publications of the American Alpine Club

Publications of the American Alpine Club.The following publications may be obtained upon application to the Assistant Secretary at the Club Rooms. Prices include postage.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Peak 12,416, North Face

Peak 12,416, North Face. In September 1971 Jeanne Neale and I climbed five pitches of free climbing up a diagonal crack system. Moderate but continuous fifth class brought us to the virgin summit of the highest peak on Glacier Divide, a 15-mile-lo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure of Nut and Piton, Washington, Mount Garfield

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT AND PITONWashington, Mount GarfieldOn May 14, Frank Wells (33) and Craig Parsley (25) started an ascent of the South Face of the West Peak of Mount Garfield at 0700. At 1100, around the 1200-meter level, Wells fell, pu...


In Memoriam AAJ
Gustave Ernest Landt, 1894-1977

GUSTAVE ERNEST LANDT 1894-1977Gustave Landt was born in Highwood, Illinois, November 29, 1894, and died suddently of a heart attack on April 5, 1977, at his home inNorristown, Pa., survived by his wife, a daughter and three grandchildren.Gus reciv...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Mango Gusor

Mango Gusor. A Japanese expedition led by Tateshi Sudo is said to have climbed Mango Gusor (6288 meters, 20,630 feet). Details are lacking.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru?Cordillera Blanca, Taulliraju and Other Peaks

Taulliraju and Other Peaks. Our High-Mountain Military Group expedition was made up of Captain Jean-Pierre Charles, Dr. Emmanuel Cauchy, Adjutants Lionel Mailly and Hervé Farges, Sergeants Yves Tedeschi, Bruno Prom, Jean-Marc Gryska and Dominique ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan—Hindu Kush, Darban Zom Attempt and Accident, 1975

Darban Zom Attempt and Accident, 1978. Paddy Feely, Irish, Fred van Gemert, Dutch, Bob Milwood and I, English, in early August of 1978, made very good progress on the north side of Darban Zom (23,665 feet). After only two weeks our first summit at...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Mount Sally Serena and the Irish Peaks, Taurus Group, Purcells

Mount Sally Serena and the “Irish Peaks", Taurus Group, Purcells. On July 24 the A. Maki, C. Wagner, and R. C. West families began their backpacking up Irish Creek to camps at Tara and Shannon Lakes. Two days later Bob and David West made a first ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Yukon, St. Elias Range, Border Peak of Mt. Vancouver

Yukon, St. Elias Range, Border Peak of Mt. Vancouver. The 10-man Japanese party was flown to the Seward Glacier 28 May to attempt a new route, the SW Ridge, on the Border Peak of Mt. Vancouver, 15,700. A steep snow slope was utilized to reach a co...


Accident Reports ANAM
Probable Cornice Collapse, Weather, Yukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount Logan

PROBABLE CORNICE COLLAPSE, WEATHERYukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount LoganOn May 10,1987, a party of six was flown into the Seward Glacier on the base of the Hummingbird Ridge. Four of the party crossed the glacier and climbed Mount Augusta...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mount Everest, Ascent and Tragedy

Mount Everest, Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was organized by the Slovak Geographical Society of the Slovak Academy of Sciences with two parallel programs: scientific research and mountaineering. The research concerned the problems of nature ...