I made a solo, alpine-style, first ascent of the west-northwest face of Langshisha Ri (6427 meters, 21,086 feet) and the first traverse of the peak. I was accompanied to Base Camp by Dr. Matjaž Vrtovec, Chindi Phurba Sherpa and liaison officer Kes...

Cerro Pyramid, Southwest Face. It was reported that Slovenian Dusan Debelek and Spanish climber Aritza Monastero climbed an 800-meter route on the south west face of Cerro Pyramid (5885 m) on July 13. The route, called Facig Uno, follows the an ic...

FRANCIS L. CAREY1903-1990Frank Carey died on September 13, 1990 in Sharon, Connecticut after a short illness. He was bom in Seneca, South Carolina and graduated from Clemson College in 1925 with a degree in electrical engineering. He retired from ...

Rampart Peak (Peak 9). Two ascents of this peak were reported, the earlier being a snow and ice climb from the N.E., and the second an ascent of the precipitous E. face by Charles Grant, William Farrell and David Ragle. The latter climb led direct...

General Sherman, East Face. On May 31, Billie Butterfield, Dave LeBlanc, Juan Esteban Lira, Natala Goodman and I climbed an outrigger summit of Sherman Peak at the south edge of the Pasayten Wilderness. General Sherman (7,640') lies due east of Sh...

Aconcagua, North Face Variation. On January 22, 1982, from a high camp at 20,500 feet on a rock outcrop north of the Polish Glacier, Marty Hoey, George Dunn, Dick Bass, Frank Wells, Chuck Goldmark and I attempted a direct variation up the glacier....

Mt. Foraker, The Infinite Spur, Ascent. On May 18, Carl Tobin and I flew into the West Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and established our base camp to attempt the third ascent of the Infinite Spur on the south face of Mt. Foraker. We invested May 20...

FALL ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, PARTY SEPARATED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWyoming, TetonsOn October 10 at 10 a.m. Carlos Medrano (25), Fernand Kuhr (23), and Chesley Rowe (21) set out from the Meadows in Garnet Canyon to climb the Grand Teton via the Owen-...

STRANDED, INADEQUATE FOOD and FUELWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeOn June 15, two climbers called on a cell phone to the White River Ranger Station to report that they were pinned down in bad weather on Liberty Cap. Mike Catlett and Don Wi...

K2 Attempt and Ascent of P 6640. Towards the end of April, Americans Mark Wilford and Brad Johnson, Britons Alan Burgess, Alan Hinkes, Paul Moores and I assembled in Kathmandu with all equipment and food. All this baggage was put on a truck and fi...

Tetons, 1980-1982. In the past few years, climbers have been very active in the Tetons. Hanging Canyon Arêtes, Mount St. John. Within the past five years, several routes on the short arêtes leading up toward Mount St. John near the eastern end of ...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral RockOn October 10, Dan Goriesky (43) set out to lead Pee Pee Pillar (a one pitch,5.10a) with his friends Josh Vendig and Randy Dewees. The rating was...

Mt. Frigga I and Mt. Frigga II, Ascents. Minoru Nagosi and seven other people, all from Hiroshima, Japan, ascended Mt. Frigga in Auyuittuq National Park in Baffin Island. They climbed on the west faces of Mt. Frigga I and Mt. Frigga II. On the wes...

Flathead Spire, South Face, Blodgett Canyon, Bitterroot Range. Wayne Wallace and I began this route by climbing the first two pitches of the Ballard-Everingham route to a good ledge below the base of a large dihedral, just to the right of “Afterbu...

Avalanche, by Joseph Wachsberg. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1958. Price $4.00.This is an excellent narrative of the events leading up to, during, and following the two notorious avalanches that struck the village of Blons, Austria, in January 1954....

Alaska Ascents. Edited by Bill Sherwonit. Alaska Northwest Books, Seattle, 1996. 295 pages. $16.95.For those interested in Alaska in particular and mountaineering history in general, Alaska Ascents, a compilation of 17 stories written by climbers ...

Thamserku, West Ridge. Our expedition made a new route on Thamserku’s west ridge. We had Camps I and II at 5500 and 6000 meters. We fixed 2000 meters of rope. On October 25 Sonam, Pemba Sherpa and I reached for the first time the 6300-meter foresu...

ROCK PULLED OFF–BROKE CLIMBING ROPE, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Wind River Range, Cirque of the Towers, Wolf's Head PeakOn September 22, Michael “Scott” Shaw (31) of Talkeetna, Alaska, died in a mountaineering accident while descending Wolf’s Head Peak ...

Pumori, Japanese Southwest Ridge Ascent. This large expedition marched up the mountain in true Himalayan style with four camps, 3000 meters of fixed rope and four Nepalis accompanying them. The result was that eight Japanese and a Nepali got to th...

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWashington, Whitehorse MountainOn September 18, 1984, Jim Scott (52) fell while descending from the summit of Whitehorse Mountain (2135 meters). Scott, who had moved from Seattle to Los...