Danga II, First Ascent. We set out from the airstrip at Suketar, some 60 kilometers southwest of Danga, on April 18. There were seven of us: my son Daniel, my brother Gerald and my nephew James; Daniel’s wife Jude; her brother David; our local doc...
Churen Himal, Central Summit. Our team consisted of Christopher Burt, Henry Chaplin and Roger Pyves and me as leader, as well as Sherpas Ang Jangbo and Lkakpa Gyalu. We completed the third ascent of the central summit of Churen Himal. There are th...
Chicllarazo, Cordillera de la Apacheta, and other climbs. Chuquichanca (Cordillera Vilcanota) revisited. The Apacheta is the first high pass (15,436 feet, 4705 meters) on the Via de los Libertadores from Ayacucho to the coast, not far from Lircay’...
Ramjak, first ascent. An Indian Mountaineering Foundation expedition led by Sangay Dorjee Sherpa made the first ascent of Ramjak (6,318m). This peak has attracted many climbers in the past, including attempts by IMF expeditions in 2000 and 2001. A...
Kulu Pumori. A training expedition of the Western Himalayan Mountaineering Institute climbed this beautiful peak, which rises above Concordia in the center of the Bara Shigri Glacier. On August 15, three groups reached the peak, led by Instructor ...
Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley. As the Journal goes to press, we receive word of the successful winter ascent of Mount McKinley, completed on March 1 by Art Davidson, Dave Johnston and Ray Genet. The party was flown to the Kahiltna Glacier on Jan...
1953 Expeditions. This year promises to be one of the most active ever in the Himalayas. A British expedition* under Col. John Hunt, consisting of 12 members with 4 in reserve, is leaving for Everest in February for another try at the southern rou...
Shispare, Batura Muztagh. The Polish-German Academic Expedition climbed the virgin summit of Shispare. The members were Leszek Cichy, Miroslaw Dabrabowski, Marek Grochowski, Jan Holnicki-Szulc, Dr. Piotr Kintopf, Ryszard Marcjoniak, Andrzej Mlynar...
Manaslu North Attempt. Five Frenchmen led by Michel Richard attempted to climb Manaslu North (7157 meters, 23,481 feet) by the northeast face to reach the south ridge. On October 23, they reached their high point of 6400 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Trango Group, various new routes; tower northwest of Garda Peak, first ascent; Trango Tower, attempts. Two Polish teams operated separately from the Trango Glacier during August and September. One comprised Maciej Ciesielski, Wawrzyniec Zakrzewski...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Alaskan mountaineers were again active in the Alaskan, Brooks, Talkeetna, and Chugach ranges. A highlight was the second ascent of Mount Deborah via a new route by Brian Okonek, Pat Condran, Mark Hotman, Dave Pettigr...
Thulagi (7,059m), attempt. Nine Japanese led by the well-known Himalayan explorer, Tamotsu Ohnishi, made the first known attempt on Thulagi, a southwestern outlier of Manaslu (8,163m) that was opened for climbing by the Nepalese government in 2003...
Black Peak, Northwest Face. On August 27 my brother Carl and I, from Wing Lake, crossed the northeast col and descended to Shelockum Glacier. We ascended the glacier to gain a rib on the face which led directly to the summit. NCCS II, F5.Gordon R....
Cirque of the Towers Traverse. When our party of six arrived in the Cirque of the Towers, Dick McCracken and Charlie Raymond and I were immediately struck by two fine challenges: the unclimbed south face of the Watchtower and a traverse of the Cir...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallOn September 10, 1994, a climber (30) was leading on “Blackwalk” (5. l0b/c) on Red Garden Wall. He was 30 feet off the ground and five feet above...
Mt. Huber. G. Collier was of the party which made the first ascent in 1903 (E. Tewes, C. Bohren, C. Kaufmann). Their route, little likely to be repeated, is not given in the Guidebook, but is nevertheless remarkable. Leaving the chalet at Lake Lou...
Deo Tibba and Shilla. An All-India University Students Expedition led by R. Jaikumar climbed Deo Tibba in July. The main objective of this party was, however, Shilla, once reported as over 23,000 feet when it was first climbed a hundred years ago ...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AssiniboineOn 1 August 1979, Edward Donn (39) and Vic Beresford (24) were descending Mt. Assiniboine at 930 hours after reaching the summit. Beresford easily crossed a six-fo...
Premiere Buttress. The first climb of this sloping, rounded buttress, just above the last road switchback at Whitney Portal, was made on November 17 by Brian Gochoel and me in 5½ leads. The rock is excellent granite, with numerous chickenheads tha...
Langtang Lirung, Winter Ascent and Attempt. Two Japanese teams attempted the normal route, the southeast ridge of Langtang Lirung (7234 meters). The first party consisted of eight Japanese and four Sherpas under the leadership of Koichi (also spel...