Club Activities AAJ
The Colorado Mountain Club

The Colorado Mountain Club. Our club is an organization of 12 groups, located throughout Colorado. The total membership at the end of 1980 is about 7000. During the year we sponsored about 2000 trips.Club-sponsored outings included Yellowstone Nat...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Bhagirathi II, East Face and Northeast Ridge

Bhagirathi II, East Face and Northeast Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Wlodzimierz Lipinski, Lech Laski, Dr. Bogdan Meller, Zbigniew Mikolajczyk, Tadeusz Niedzwiedz, Marian Nowak, Marek Orenczuk, Piotr Wójtowicz, Vlademar Zmurko and me as le...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Faulty Use of Crampons Washington, Mount Rainier, Muir Snowfield

On October 3, shortly after 4:30 p.m., Chris Beoffoli (34) began his descent from Camp Muir. While descending near 7,800 feet on the Muir Snowfield, Beoffoli, according to a report from him, “...fell back and because it was steep, I started to p...

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Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Madagascar, Lemur Wall, New Route

Lemur Wall, new route. To the right of Pectorine, in the vicinity of the huge broken flake, Swiss climbers, Jurg Bernhard and Andreas Bähler, created a new four-pitch route christened, La Voie Plaisir des Guides Suisses. The climb was put up on th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga Central Attempt

Kangchenjunga Central Attempt. A 13-man Korean expedition led by Cho Sang-Ku tried to climb to the central summit of Kangchenjunga by the southwest face. On October 12, a high point of 8350 meters was reached.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Mali, La Mano de Fatima, Kaga Tondo, Forsakala Bimbaso

La Mano de Fatima, Kaga Tondo, Forsakala Bimbaso. Adventure and unexpected situations guided a group of Czech climbers during their trip to La Mano de Fatima. In spite of very high temperatures, four of them, Pavel Jonak, Vasek Satava, Petr Piecho...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Condoriri and Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real

Ananea. We arrived on August 7 from Juliaca at Putina by truck and proceeded the next day on foot to Base Camp above Rinconada at Laguna de los Muertos at 16,850 feet. On the ninth all 13 of us climbed easy Punta Rinconada (17,225 feet). After an ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, France, Aiguille des Pélerins, North Face

Aiguille des Pèlerins, North Face. On April 21 and 22, Briton Andy Parkin and I climbed a new route on the north face of the Aiguille des Pèlerins (3318 meters, 10,887 feet). We climbed directly to the Col des Pèlerins and began about halfway betw...


Accident Reports ANAM
Weather, Fatigue, Failure to Follow Route, Fall or Slip on Rock, Washington, Mixup Peak

WEATHER, FATIGUE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FALL OR SLIP ON ROCKWashington, Mixup PeakOn August 18, 1989, Tim Backman (30) and David Newton (36) ascended Mixup Peak in North Cascades National Park. They began the climb in fog from Gun Sight Notch. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna II Attempt

Annapurna II Attempt. An American group of six led by Steven Brimmer attempted to climb the north face of Annapurna II (7937 meters, 26,041 feet). On October 10, they reached a high point of 7200 meters.Elizabeth Hawley


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse, Washington, Mount Rainier, Enroute to Wilson Headwall

FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, enroute to Wilson HeadwallOn the morning of May 4th, three climbers left Camp Muir, following a gentle downhill traverse to reach the base of the Wilson Headwall. About ten minutes out from the camp, th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Nunavut, "Sukaq Nasaq," "Mount Ise" and Attempts on Thor and Menhir

“Sukaq Nasaq,” “Mount Ise” and Attempts on Thor and Menhir. On July 22 and 23, Martin Krauer, Ansgar Haider, Dieter Stopper, Sabine Walter, Michael Roth and I climbed a peak behind Nanna Peak in the first side valley of the Fork Beard Glacier (5.l...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, No Hard Hat, Washington, Whitehorse Mountain

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATWashington, Whitehorse MountainThis is to report a climbing accident that occurred on Whitehorse Mountain on June 9, 1991.1 was the climb leader. Tony Baird was the injured climber. Other climbers were Andy Doppel and Stev...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Pik Lenina and Pik Kommunizma Attempts

Pik Lenina and Pik Kommunizma Attempts. In July, David Bregenzer, Richard Goodell, Tim Lemmuchi, Alan Ropp, Fred Ziel and I went to the Soviet Union, hoping to climb the Razdelny route of Pik Lenina and the Borodin route of Pik Kommunizma. After o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Guatemala, Tajumulco and Picaya

We climbed two volcanoes, Tajumulco (13,810 ft.) and Picaya (9000 ft.), the latter semi-active, both easy climbs. One rides a mule to within a few hundred feet of the top of each and walks the rest of the way. Tajumulco is the highest mountain in ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, New York, Adirondack Mountains, Various Ice Ascents

Adirondack Mountains, Various Ice Ascents. Two hard mixed climbs were established at Poke- O-Moonshine in the Adirondack Mountains. Jeff Lowe put up Gorillas in the Mist (M6+). On Jeff’s suggestion, Alex Lowe visited the area with Randy Rackliff. ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, No Hard Hat, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn April 11, 1993, around 1100, Mike Fischesser (40ish) and Joe Lackey were ascending fixed ropes to reach their gear on Sickle Ledge (top of pitch #4) on the Nose route of El Cap. W...


Notes AAJ
The Teton Range

The Teton Range. Our member, F. M. Fryxell, whose interest in this range is well known, has made a relief model of the range and the neighboring Jackson Hole, which was on exhibition this past summer at the Century of Progress Exposition in Chicago.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Our expedition was composed of Antonio Trabado, Ramón Portilla, Pedro Miguel Sánchez, Pedro San Ramón, José Manuel Cardero, Juan María Calderón and me. We got to Base Camp on June 17 after a four-day approach. Already fo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall in River—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Blaeberry River

FALL IN RIVER—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Blaeberry River. Mountain climbers frequently have to cross rivers, and occasionally drown in them as a result. We are reminded of this by the following accident which was serious and could have bee...