Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (1) Pikes Peak On 24 July 1948 James Slack (20), a medical student at the University of Oklahoma, left Colorado Springs for a solo climb up Pikes Peak. He had been warned against the undertaking by the friends with who...
Nanga Parbat, First American Ascent. Carlos Buhler became the first native-born American to climb Nanga Parbat when he ascended the mountain with a Russian team in July. It was also the first Russian ascent of the mountain. Further details are lac...
A List of Publications Relating to The Mountains of Alaska, by Francis P. Farquhar and Mildred P. Ashley. New York. The American Alpine Club, 1934.In a monograph of thirty-seven pages, the authors present an extensive bibliography which should be ...
The Saddlehorn, South Face. This prominent tower is located east of Mount Ruskin and can be seen from the vicinity of Taboose Pass. In May, Steve Roper and I climbed three steep pitches of free climbing up a very straight crack system on the south...
FALL OFF CORNICE, FALL INTO CREVASSE, BAD WEATHERWashington, Mount RainierBetween 0930 and 1000 on May 7, 1983, Douglas Vercoe (34), Judd Flynn, and James Busek left Paradise for Camp Muir. Their intention was to climb Mount Rainier on the followi...
ALAN J. GIVLER 1947-1977 A1 Givler and Dusan Jagersky perished last summer in Alaska while descending P 8440. Both were beloved friends of many people and the loss of their continued companionship has been keenly felt. It is an honor and privileg...
Masherbrum Attempt. Christine de Colombel and I took as our objective the beautiful west ridge of Masherbrum (7821 meters, 25,660 feet), hoping to climb it without high-altitude porters, oxygen or fixed camps. It was the first time that a woman ha...
Santa Cruz, West Face. This summer, after two attempts with different partners, I was finally able to climb the west face of Santa Cruz on August 13. The route stayed on the west face rather than traversing to the west ridge, which is what the ori...
San Lorenzo Sur and Cerro Hermosa Este. My husband Gino Buscaini and I approached the San Lorenzo group from the Estancia El Rincón and went in three days with loads via Lago del Volcán, Río San Lorenzo and Río “Paso Clandestine” to the southwest ...
Ghochhar Sar Tragedy. Six members of a Japanese expedition were killed when buried by a huge avalanche on the Shachiokh Glacier as they were heading for Ghochhar Sar (20,502 feet). This peak lies east of Chitral. The leader was Yoshio Sugimura. Mo...
Mount Forbes, Northwest Face. Jeff Lowe, Graham Thompson and I walked in to Glacier Lake and the following day forded the stream emerging from the Lyell Glacier to bivouac on a moraine near the junction of the Mons and North Forbes glaciers. The c...
British Columbia, Mt. Waddington. In August, about 4 p.m., a party of four from British Columbia Mountaineering Club was preparing final rappel in descent of main tower of Mt. Waddington. Gary Kozel (28) strung a rope through rappel sling left by ...
FALL ON ROCK, SHOULDER DISLOCATIONQuebec, Val David, Mont CondorAt 1330 on September 12, 1987, a novice climber was beginning the ascent of a chimney of l’ Aiguille on Mont Condor. He was taking part in a rock-climbing school, was wearing a helmet...
Everest. An expedition of eight Netherlanders was led by Herman Plugge. They set up Base Camp on August 31 but claim they were prevented for a few days by the Nepalese clean-up group from using the route the latter had just opened through the icef...
El Pilar, La Crux de Navidad. This route climbs the long diagonal crack on the east face of El Pilar. El Pilar is an isolated tower of solid volcanic rock (rhyolite?). Look for the beautiful dihedral halfway up. Start behind trees on boulders at t...
The Duke of the Abruzzi: An Explorer’s Life. Mirella Tenderini and Michael Shandrick. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1997. 216 pages. $24.95.Climbers of any age or experience level will treasure the biography of explorer and alpinist Luigi Amedeo di S...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club enjoyed an unusually eventful year in 1967. The annual banquet attracted 152 members; Layton Kor was the guest speaker. Twenty-three professional film-lectures were sponsored with an average attendance of 490 persons at...
Manaslu Northeast Face. A light-weight expedition of six Poles and two Mexicans was led by Jerzy Kukuczka. They established Base Camp on September 8 at 4400 meters. From September 17 to October 26 in very bad weather they climbed the difficult and...
Nampa, First Ascent. The Mountaineering Association of Aomori Prefecture expedition was led by Seigo Matsushima. They took the same route which had been attempted by the British in the fall of 1970. On May 4 Susumu Takahashi and Kukuju Kimura left...
Auyan Tepuye, Gran Sabana, Rainbow Jambaia. In March and April, Anne and John Arran, Ivan Calderón, Miles Gibson, Ben Heason, Alex Klenov, and Alfredo Rangel made a free ascent of the Angel Falls wall. Their line (Rainbow Jambaia, 31 pitches, E7 6...