Flathead Spire, South Face, Blodgett Canyon, Bitterroot Range. Wayne Wallace and I began this route by climbing the first two pitches of the Ballard-Everingham route to a good ledge below the base of a large dihedral, just to the right of “Afterbu...
Avalanche, by Joseph Wachsberg. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1958. Price $4.00.This is an excellent narrative of the events leading up to, during, and following the two notorious avalanches that struck the village of Blons, Austria, in January 1954....
Alaska Ascents. Edited by Bill Sherwonit. Alaska Northwest Books, Seattle, 1996. 295 pages. $16.95.For those interested in Alaska in particular and mountaineering history in general, Alaska Ascents, a compilation of 17 stories written by climbers ...
Thamserku, West Ridge. Our expedition made a new route on Thamserku’s west ridge. We had Camps I and II at 5500 and 6000 meters. We fixed 2000 meters of rope. On October 25 Sonam, Pemba Sherpa and I reached for the first time the 6300-meter foresu...
ROCK PULLED OFF–BROKE CLIMBING ROPE, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Wind River Range, Cirque of the Towers, Wolf's Head PeakOn September 22, Michael “Scott” Shaw (31) of Talkeetna, Alaska, died in a mountaineering accident while descending Wolf’s Head Peak ...
Pumori, Japanese Southwest Ridge Ascent. This large expedition marched up the mountain in true Himalayan style with four camps, 3000 meters of fixed rope and four Nepalis accompanying them. The result was that eight Japanese and a Nepali got to th...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWashington, Whitehorse MountainOn September 18, 1984, Jim Scott (52) fell while descending from the summit of Whitehorse Mountain (2135 meters). Scott, who had moved from Seattle to Los...
Matakoyaré, Northwest Face. On January 26, Toni Galvan, Joan Sole, and Jenny Lafarga (Spain) established the new route Buen Rollete Dogoncete (6a, 300m) on the northwest face of Matakoyaré. The peak lies along the route from Banako to Gao. Further...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, LOST ICE AX Colorado, Maroon BellsOn July 26, 1986, Greg Mace (42) and three other Mountain Rescue-Aspen members departed on a scheduled training exercise to scout alternative evacuation routes and to locate he...
FROSTBITE, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE FOOD, LOST EQUIPMENT Washington, Mount Rainier National Park, Ptarmigan RidgeOn February 1, Chris Bamer (25) and Robert Montague (28) set out to ascend Ptarmigan Ridge. Both were guides for Rainier Mountaineering I...
Sia Chhish, Batura Group. [This peak lies southwest of Hachindar Chhish.—Editor.] Our expedition was composed of Enrico De Luca, Giam- piero Di Federico, Eugenio Di Marzio, Sandro Pucci, Giuseppe Ricciuti and me as leader. From Gilgit we traveled ...
Nevado Llongote, Los Pecados se Rien!, I-Célines, and Longue, Haute, et Magnifico. Two teams of young French climbers sponsored by the FFME visited the unfrequented Nevado Llongote massif in August. A group of four young men was joined toward the ...
Ost-Tirol, Land-Volk-Kunst, by Franz Kollreider. 46 pages of trilingual text and 120 full-page photographs by Jahn-Dietrichstein. Innsbruck: Der Tiroler Graphik, 1951. Price, $2.50.This is the first book dealing exclusively with the country, peopl...
Passu I and II Ascents and Nanga Parbat Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Yoshitoyo Oishi, Katsuto Soejima, Naoya Yamasaki, Koji Yamauchi, Dr. Tetsuro Nishida and me as leader. We climbed the Passu peaks from the east. Our route went up the Pas...
Central Lahul. Under the leadership of Hamish McArthur, a small expedition consisting of Mrs. McArthur, Mr. and Mrs. Frank Solari, and Captain and Mrs. K. Goswami, entered Spiti on July 23, 1955. From a camp near Shitakar they made a plane table s...
Asgard Peak, North Ridge, Valhalla Mountains, Southern Selkirks. On September 2 Shari Nelson and I climbed the north ridge of Asgard Peak. We followed the ridge crest, traversing when necessary. NCCS III, F7.Alan J. Kearney, Mazamas
Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park: (3) On August 7, 1952 Charles Mahan (20), slipped on a steep snowfield on Ypsilon Mountain while on a Y. M. C. A. Conference hike. He slid into a rock pile, fractured his left collar bone, and lacerated his l...
Climbs in Auyuittuq National Park, Cumberland Peninsula. In June, Germans Frank Jourdan and Wilhelm Alfred attempted two climbs both of which were turned back before they reached the summit by extremely cold snowstorms. They climbed 11 pitches on ...
California, Sierra Nevada, Rae Lakes. On 4 April Keith Stampher (18) and Randy Jolly (17) proceeded to the Rae Lakes area from their homes near Santa Barbara. Two days later and two 12,000-foot passes later, they reached their destination at the u...
FALLING ROCK, WEATHER, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Mount ShastaIn early January, Lorca Rossman (19), Roman Hruska (19), and Nic Rhind (23) were turned back from their summit attempt due to high winds which were blowing rocks down from the ridge...