Pumari Chhish Attempt and Ascent of “Skirish Sar”. Our Austrian expedition to the mountains north of the Hispar Glacier was composed of Georg Bachler, Robert Schauer, Hilmar Sturm, Hias Schreder, Sepp Portenkirchner and me as leader. With 32 porte...
Langtang Lirung Winter Attempt. Eight Japanese led by Kouich Ezaki attempted to climb Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 27,324 feet) by its southeast ridge. They were able to get only to 6250 meters on December 11.Elizabeth Hawley
Trango Tower, West Pillar, second ascent. A Swiss team comprising Francesco Pellanda, Giovanni Quirici, and Christophe Steck made the second ascent of the 1987 Dedale-Schaff- ter-Fauquet-Piola route on the west pillar of Trango Tower (6,251m), a d...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club has become increasingly active in sponsoring skiing, backpacking, and mountaineering courses for University of Iowa credit. In January 40 members camped at 11,000 feet in Colorado’s Collegiate Range and completed a 10-d...
Peak 6,100m, attempt. A 16-member Japanese team, with Sherpa support, visited the mountains north of the Annapurna Range during the summer season. Susumu Akihata and Yuichiro Ishi- hara were joint leaders. The expeditions goal was an unnamed and u...
Burgundy Spire, Annie Green Spring Route. David Jay and I climbed this new route on the south ridge and southwest face in mid-October. We scrambled up the obvious gully to a large chockstone and moved right to the ridgecrest. We followed the ridge...
Mount Moran, Central Triple Glacier. The last of the three glaciers on the northwest side of Mount Moran was investigated this past summer on August 24 by James Greig and P. Cleveland. A bivouac was made at the base of the glacier and the next mor...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, The BookOn August 15, 1994, about 1500, Laura Grignon (29) slipped and fell on rock while leading what they believed to be the J Crack III 5.10a on ...
Mt. Haddo. Tewes calls this peak “Sheol,” but there is no doubt as to the summit which he and C. Bohren attained. Crossing Castle Crags, they found the Aberdeen Glacier too steep and therefore took to the face and ridge of Mt. Haddo, of which they...
Deo Tibba. This now frequently climbed, 19,687-foot Kulu peak was climbed on May 18 by the expedition’s leader, C. Pritchard, and R. Hatch and on May 20 by S. Kumar, B. Merchant and the Ladakhi porter Wangyal. On the 20th Pritchard and Hatch also ...
FALLING ROCKBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. QuadraA. Magnus, a member of a party of 13, was crossing a pass, which required a rappel, near Mt. Quadra on 5 August 1979. Magnus was first down and stayed at the foot. A rock fall hit him on the...
The Citadel, North Face. In early August, TM Herbert, Dennis Hennek, and I climbed the 1700-foot north face of the Citadel at the south end of Le Conte Canyon. We chose the longest most direct line leading to the east summit. The first day was spe...
Dhaulagiri Attempts, Ascents and Tragedy. Nine teams attempted Dhaulagiri (8167 meters) this autumn, all via the Northeast Ridge. The climbers came from Georgia, Belarussia, Bulgaria, Kazakhstan, Japan, Spain, Austria, France, Italy, the Netherlan...
Acamani Sur. Our objective had been to reach the summit of Aca- mani (18,590 feet) via its south ridge. Unfortunately the ridge comes to a high point (17,455 feet) detached from the main peak, which could not be seen from the distance with binocul...
Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland. Oregon, launched 112 mountain climbs in Oregon, Washington, and California in 1964. Bad weather defeated 31 of these attempts, of which 14 were on Mount Hood, where the club introduces hundreds of newcomers to mou...
Rignys Bjerg Area, Various Activity. The Rignys Bjerg mountains lie some distance east of the Watkins Bjerge and Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjelde areas at approximately 69° 5' N, 26° 30' W. In late May, Nigel Edwards and three others were flown into the ar...
Ancohuma, East-northeast Face. The route we climbed on Ancohuma was to the right of the one done in 1978 by Cosimo Zappelli and his party (A.A.J., 1979, p. 252). We left La Paz on May 22 and drove to the Candelaria mine. The next day with 40 llama...
Attempt on Malubiting. We were dead unlucky on this trip. Extreme frustration ended on April 25 with permission for Malubiting from the south (we had asked for a northerly approach). Ian Bell, Arthur Clarke, Brian Cosby, Ian Grant, Brian Ripley, T...
Langtrang Himal. A two-man expedition of the Uozu Alpine Club of Toyama Prefecture, consisting of Ikuo Saegi and Tokumi Yamaguchi, did not have serious climbing objectives but they tried to climb Dôme Blanc and reached considerable height. They we...
Dhaulagiri VI, Second Ascent. Michihiko Ogata led a second Japanese expedition, this one from Fukuoka Alpine Club, to attempt Dhaulagiri IV (25,153). This post-monsoon expedition was also unsuccessful in reaching its main objective. They climbed f...