Torre San Andrés, Torres del Brujo Range, 1991. Chileans Waldo Farías and Christián Heitmann climbed the spectacular Torre San Andrés (3050 meters, 10,007 feet) in the first half of February of 1991, reaching the summit on February 10. The granite...
FAILURE OF RAPPEL SETUP (PROTECTION PULLED OUT),INADEQUATE EQUPMENT Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn May 7, 1989, Robert Johnston (30) was attempting to lead Conan’s Gonads, a 5.9 crack climb on Twin Owls Crag. After 12 meters of rock clim...
Diran Attempt and Tragedy. Seven Japanese led by Y. Yaezu had hoped to climb Diran (7257 meters, 23,810 feet) by its north ridge. On July 20 R. Iida disappeared between the 5000-meter col on the north ridge and 5400-meter Camp III. The expedition ...
Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park (2)—Little Matterhorn: On 31 July 1953, a party of nine girls was ascending the Little Matterhorn. This organized group had almost reached the summit when Miss Kathryn Rees (15) became startled at the movement...
River Road Area. During Jeff Lowe’s honeymoon with Teri Ebel, they established a new route, a hard, wide crack 200 feet left of Artist’s Tears, three miles up River Road from Moab. It ascends 30 feet of aid (climbed years ago by an unknown party) ...
Alberta, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Olympus. On the morning of 2 July Hartmut von Gaza (23) and Athol Abrahams (26) were ascending the N.W. ridge of Mt. Olympus (9,800 feet) at the head of Fryatt Creek. After mixed fourth and fifth class climbing, they...
Sequoia National Park, Hamilton Dome, Before The Jury. When you sit on the deck at the Bearpaw Meadows High Sierra Camp and look east toward Angel Wings and Valhalla, you look directly at the beautiful glaciated west face of Hamilton Dome. Dave Ne...
HIS MAJESTY ALBERT I—KING OF THE BELGIANS1875-1934Few men in high places have left so great a mark in the world through uprightness of character, zeal for country’s welfare, and bravery in the face of great odds as did His Majesty Albert I, King o...
Lampak II (6181m), ascent. All seven members of an Indian expedition led by Swaraj Ghosh made the probable third ascent of this peak between the Siruanch and Kalla Glaciers above the road head at Malari. Base camp was established on August 29 at 4...
Dharamsura, Kulu. A 15-member Indian expedition was led by Swapan Kumar Ghosh. They made several attempts to get to the summit of Dharamsura (also known as White Sail; 6445 meters, 21,145 feet). Finally with only two days left to them, Sher Singh ...
Maiktoli Tragedy. An Indian expedition led by Ram Chandra Bharadwaj was mostly inexperienced and badly equipped. They set up Base Camp on the Sundardunga Glacier on September 7. After a long period of bad weather, Ratan Singh Bisht left Advance Ba...
La Meije, by Henri Isselin. Collection Sempervivum. Paris and Grenoble: Arthaud, 1956. 262 pages; ills.Henri Isselin, whose "Barre des Ecrins" was reviewed in AAJ, 1955, has now turned his attention to the Meije. He has given us an equally complet...
Mount Vaughan, Climbed at 89 Years, Queen Maud Mountains. On December 16, 1994, our summit party including my wife Carolyn Muegge- Vaughan, Gordon Wiltsie, Vernon Tejas and me made the first ascent of Mount Vaughan (3140 meters, 10,302 feet; 85°55...
Idaho Alpine Club. The past year began as a poor one for ice climbing. However, with the low snowfall, rock climbing started in February, several months earlier than usual. Also, the annual snow school was held a month early to assure adequate sno...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE COVERED ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTNew Hampshire, Cannon Cliff, OmegaOn March 13, Alan Cattabriga (35) started up Omega, an extremely difficult and dangerous mixed (ice, rock, verglas, and snow-covered rock) route on the east face...
Svalbard. In the early weeks of April, Steve Trafton, Frank Baird, Sam Gardner, John Mason and I visited the remote ranges of Svalbard (Spitsbergen) in the Norwegian High Arctic, and archipelago which lies between the latitudes of 76° and 81° N. W...
Washington, Darrington Area, Whitehorse Mountain—On May 30 Wallace Reid (40) an experienced climber was fatally injured while climbing alone just a short distance from base camp. Reid and ten othermembers of the Washington Alpine Club had establis...
Notch Peak, North Face, Book of Saturday, Previously Unreported. Between May, 1997, and May, 1999, the late Tom Lyde and I established a new route on the north face of Notch Peak (9,725') with some assistance from Tracey Price. This limestone face...
Losar, solo ascent. Sometime after the ascent reported above and after I returned from an attempt on Cholatse’s southwest ridge, I found myself back in Namche with a few days to spare. Losar allowed me to ascend and descend in just under six hours...
Gasherbrum II Ascents and Attempts. An international expedition climbed Gasherbrum II. On August 1, Americans Tom Hargis, leader, John Giban, Charlotte Fox and Randy Coffman, Ukrainian Oleg Banar, and Norwegians Bj0rn Arne Evensen, Simon Mordre an...