Chaukhamba II, Chaukhamba I, and Unnamed Peak, First Ascents. An expedition mounted by the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi, and led by Col. M.P. Yadav succeeded in climbing to the summits of Chaukhamba I (7068 meters) via the southwe...
Packrat, North Face. Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and I made the first ascent of the north face of Packrat on September 21. From the center of the base of the face we worked our way up angling ledge systems to the base of the largest slab, which we by...
Peak 11,598, East Face and Peak 11,830, East Ridge. There was a definite allure about the sound of Big Bird Lake; we might be carried off by a pterodactyl, and besides there were supposed to be some good climbs in the area. Greg Henzie, Galen Rowe...
Alpine Club of Canada. Following are highlights of the A.C.C.’s 1989 achievements. In the facilities area, 1989 marked the completion of the Wapta Icefields project, whose centerpiece was the July construction of the new Bow Hut. This project repr...
To the North Pole Solo. The Japanese Naomi Uemura made a solo dog-team trip from Ellesmereland to the North Pole, which he reached on April 30. He was supported by aircraft which then airlifted him back to his base and then to the northern tip of ...
Osaka City University Himalayan Expedition consisted of Takeo Suzuki, leader; T. Kondo, Y. Kadota, T. Kiyohara, A. Ban, K. Jokei and S. Sasaki. We tried to climb Langtrang Lirung (23,750 feet) from the south ridge and reached the height of 18,850 ...
William (Bill) Hearrell Robins 1957-2002Bill Robins, 45, died on July 7 while attempting a technical climb on the northeast face of Bolivia’s 17,159-foot Pyramide Blanca of the Cerro Condoriri group.Bill was born on July 3, 1957, in Salt Lake City...
Torre Egger Attempt. An Italian expedition led by Aldo Gross and composed of 16 guides from the Fassa valley failed to climb a new route, the east face of Torre Egger in December, 1976.
Chimborazo, Lesser Summits. The two easternmost peaks of Chimborazo had remained so far unclimbed. They were traversed on May 20, 1979 by the Ecuadorians W. Villacís and O. Omar, of the Polytechnical School of the Ecuadorian army. These summits re...
Mt. Amulet, North Face. Heading east on the Glenn Highway, there is a great clump of peaks to the south across the Matanuska River opposite the Victory Bible Camp. The Spectrum Glacier that Monument Creek flows from has been visited often in the p...
Killabuk and Other Peaks. A Belgian expedition led by Alain Grignard seems to have run into very poor weather from July 7 to 24. On July 7 J.C. Sonnenwyl, P. Morand, E. Blanc (Swiss), and B. Legros climbed the east face of Mount Killabuk by the di...
Pisco Oeste, Chopicalqui, and Chacraraju. The Alpine Club Impol of Slovenska Bistrica expedition was composed of Ivan Šturm, Marjan Frešer, Francek Knez, Janko Korent, Matjaž Peckovnik, Milan Romih, Dani Tic and Dr. Tone Žuntar. On June 4 Knez and...
Ishinca and Ranrapalca, Cordillera Blanca. In late April two friends from the University of British Columbia, Hamish Mutch and Gordon Dunham, turned up in Lima. Here was an opportunity to visit the range in the off-season. We decided on the Quebra...
Peak 11, 308', White Line Couloir. In May, Travis Michaelis, Abe Dickerson, and I made the first complete ascent of the 1,200-foot White Line Couloir, on Peak 11,308' (2.3 miles sou:hwest of Borah Peak, in the Lost River Range). I previously climb...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Dragon PeakOn August 19,1981, Bruce Dyer (24) went on a solo backpacking and fishing trip to the lake east of Dragon Peak. He was not known to be a climber but evidently found he had time to sp...
Dunagiri Tragedy. Karl (“Chip”) Ketron and Brad Shaver made a five-day alpine ascent of Dunagiri (23,184 feet), reaching the summit on October 18. Tragedy struck during the descent. It is impossible to be sure just what happened, but from what Ind...
It was reported that Nyama Gyaltsen from Burma and Takashai Ozaki from Japan made the successful first ascent of Hkakbo Razi (5,881m, a.k.a. Hkakabo Razi), the previously unclimbed highest summit of Burma and the mountain marking the easternmost p...
“Continental Tower” Wind River Range. While hiking from Little Sandy Lake to the western shoulder of Wind River Peak near the southern end of the range, Bob Stevenson and I camped below several magnificent granite towers, of whose existence I had...
P 9385, University Range, Wrangell Mountains. From August 1 to 8, Bob Jacobs and I led Randy and Kathy Haines, Seth Moshman and Marvin Srulowitz to the Twaharpies Glacier area of the University Range. On August 1 we flew to the Glacier Creek landi...
Shield, The Promise Land. On Oct 3, 2004, Carolyn Parker and I completed the first ascent of our big-wall project, The Promise Land (V 5.12c), which climbs a l,200'-tall section of the Shield s southwest face. The Shield, in the Sandia Mountains, ...