Sometimes a scene remains indelibly imprinted on one’s mind. On April 5, 2002 I came across such a scene. I was in central China, cresting a 4,500-meter col (in a bus!) when a range of spiky mountains became visible. They were impressive enough fo...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlaska, Mt. McKinleyThe four-member “Savoyards” Climbing expedition (a group from France) registered in the spring of 1980 to make a traverse of Mount McKinley—ascending the West Buttress route and descending the Muld...
Mt. Russell, North Ridge. On March 2-7, Colby Coombs, Caitlin Palmer, Meg Perdue and I flew to Mt. Russell in the Alaska Range. Colby, Meg and I made the sixth ascent of Mt. Russell, the fourth ascent of the North Ridge, and the second ascent in w...
Washington, summary of activity. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, several of the bigger routes have individual reports, below—Ed.] The Cascades saw a fairly typical year of new route activity, with notable winter ascents, ski descent...
Annapurna III, Southeast Buttress Attempt. The expedition members were Tim Leach, leader, Steve Bell and I. We reached Base Camp in ten days from Pokhara via the top village of Imu. This was the first time an expedition had been to that side of th...
On July 20, Chris Van Leuven and I were dropped off in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada’s Northwest Territories. We spent 11 days in the Cirque, during which we climbed the Lotus Flower Tower, before we were flown into the Ragged Range for...
The Forgotten Adventure: Mount Everest, The Reconnaissance,1935. Tony Astill. Foreword by Lord Hunt. Introduction by Sir Edmund Hillary. Southhampton: Les Alpes Livre, 2005. 359 PAGES, NUMEROUS BLACK & WHITE PHOTOGRAPHS, AND 2 FOLDING MAPS PLU...
During the first week of August of 1986, Steve Petro and I made the first ascent of the east face of Cloud Peak. The face is about 1,000 feet high and consists of generally smooth solid granite with several ledge and dihedral systems. The route be...
Peak 11,520’, north face to summit ridge; and Mt. Huntington. Around 10 p.m. on May 17 Patricia Deavoll, Anna Keeling, Scott Simper, and I flew onto the Tokositna Glacier. By 3 p.m. May 18, all four of us had reached the summit of Huntington via t...
Exploration and various descents. The original premise of Brad Barlage’s and my trip, from mid-April to mid-May, was to traverse from Pond Inlet, near the northern tip of Baffin Island, to Clyde River, 200 miles to the south. The idea was to use s...
SLIP ON SNOW, FATIGUE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Mount AndersonOn July 27, 1982, Dr. Robert Thompson (40) and Dr. Robert Oaks (40) were injured in a fall on Mount Anderson in Olympic National Park. Ranger George Bowen was given the followin...
CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED–FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTWashington, Glacier Peak, Sitkum GlacierMy climbing group, which included Jason Cass, Janie Cogen, Jon Hayes, and Yoav Bar-Ness, left camp in Boulder Basin about 4:00 ...
Illimani Peak Names. By far the best map of Illimani is Cordillera Real Süd Illimani, published by the Deutschen Alpenverein in 1990. It contains far more information than the Bolivian Instituto Geográfico Militar maps and has relief shading. It i...
The Wolf’s Fang11 days on the northwest wall of Ulvetannaby IVAR ERIK TOLLEFSENtranslated by ROLAND HUNTFORDAntarctica is the fifth largest continent in the world, an island east of the sun, west of the moon and south of everything else. It is cov...
La Espada, East Face, Under the Knife. During the months of January and February, Jimmy Haden, Sean Leary, and I completed the first ascent of the 900-meter east face of the Sword (La Espada) in the Bader Valley. This wall had seen two previous at...
Ngojumba Kang II. The members of our expedition were Edin Alikalfic, Zdenko Anic, Mario Bago, Nives Boršic, Davor Butkovic, Željko Gobec, Jerko Kirigin, Boris Kovacevic, Branko Ognancevic, Branko Puzak, Mario Rodeš, Branko Šeparovic, Vojislav Vusi...
FALL ON ROCK–HANDHOLD CAME OFF, CLIMBING ALONE, LEFT NO INFORMATION ON WHEREABOUTSCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne PeakOn July 15, at 4:30 p.m. I (Jeff Moore, 27) was injured when I dislodged a large rock while climbing a short Class 3...
The Story of Everest, by W. H. Murray. 195 pages, 24 photographs, 14 maps and diagrams. English edition: London, J. M. Dent & Sons, 1953. Price, 15/—. American edition: New York, Dutton, 1954. Price, $3.75.Murray’s book is opportune, not only ...
How could it possibly have happened? Only moments before there had been the tranquil joy of the summit. Traversing downward on hard snow, my back was turned when the sound of a fall caused me to spin around. Through the midnight dusk, I first saw ...
Huntington's East FaceRoger Mear, Alpine Climbing GroupON MAY 3 Steve Bell and I waved goodbye to Hudson and his Cessna. We erected our mini box tent on the Ruth Glacier below the north face of Mount Huntington. For training we repeated the Japane...