Snowpatch Spire, East Face, Deus ex Machina Route, Bugaboos. On August 4 to 6, 1974 Mike Jefferson, Dennis Saunders and I did this new route, beginning in an F9 off-width crack a few hundred feet north of the Chouinard route and directly below the...
Pik Unmarked Soldier, China View. In the summer of 2001, we put up a previously unreported route on Pik Unmarked Soldier (5,322m). “China View” ascends the east face on snow and ice to the right of the main gully (560m, 50° to 70°).Irena Mrak, Slo...
Annapurna IV Attempts. A student from Osaka, Japan, Koichi Sugiyama, with Kami Tshering Sherpa, climbed to 6480 meters via the northwest ridge. They gave up on September 7 due to adverse weather. A South Korean Buddhist monk, Rim Jong-Bum, with fi...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn April 1, 1988, Mark Gable (21) suffered lacerations and abrasions when he fell six meters from a climb on the South Face of East Bluff near the Devil’s Doorway. Other climber...
Cimes et Visages du Haut Dauphiné, by Felix Germain. 185 pages, including 110 photographs in black and white, 16 in color, and 17 vignettes, one map and a circular panorama with key. Paris: Arthaud, 1955.An excellent picture-book of Dauphiné, with...
Climbing in Albania. In the summer of 1993, three climbers, Adriano Marini, Mario Vannuccini and I, and three scientists, Fabio Penati, Paride Dioli and Angelo Zilio, spent 12 days in the northern range of the Albanian Alps, in the Theth valley. P...
Gangstang, South Ridge. Thirteen Bengalis were led by Amulya Sen. Base Camp was at 4490 meters. On August 17, Tushar Deb Tapadar, Goutam Ghosh, Sandip Sarkar and Tapan Sarkar with high-altitude porters Jeevan Lal and Alam Chand Thakur left Camp II...
The Incredible Hulk, West Face, Polish Route. In August Bob Harrington and I climbed this excellent eight-pitch route. When viewing the west face from Little Slide Canyon, our route follows the continuous “stoveleg-like” cracks that split the narr...
Burkett Needle, Southeast Ridge. Greg Collum, Greg Foweraker, and I helicoptered in from Petersburg to the Baird Glacier on the evening of May 3 and set up our basecamp. The next day we packed a load of gear to the foot of the Needle and began pre...
STRANDED, UNFAMILIAR WITH DESCENTColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn October 15, rescuers were notified that two overdue climbers, Nicholas Kainrath (22) and Bryan Karban (23), were stranded on a rock climb in the Canyon. A search was started a...
Shani, Naltar Valley. Our expedition had as climbers Duncan Francis, Martin Oakes and me, as well as support members. Having arrived at Naltar by jeep, on July 29 and 30 we walked to Base Camp in the upper Shani valley by the Shani Glacier at 3700...
Lopsang Peak. Like most expeditions this year in the Baltoro Glacier area, we ran into problems. The sudden opening of the region brought a flood of expeditions, overtaxing the limited facilities. The porters took full advantage of the seller’s ma...
La Academia Nacional de Alta Montaña (National High Mountain Academy) has recently been organized under the auspices of the Federación de Andinismo y Excursionismo de Chile. This group, not unlike the American Alpine Club in its aims, hopes to rai...
Mr. Yasushi Yamanoi and his wife Taeko, two of Japan's premier alpinists, climbed Gyachung Kang (7,985m) via the Slovenian Route this October. They arrived at base camp on October 5 and proceeded to an advanced base camp at the foot of the Sloveni...
Un Pionero de Bariloche: Otto Meiling. Vojslav Arko. Bavaria y Cía., Bar- iloche, Argentina, 1991. 125 pages, 58 black-and-white illustrations, 6 sketch-maps. Paperback.Sitting at the gates of Argentinian Patagonia, Bariloche (population: 100,000)...
Mount Crillon, West Ridge. Terry Cline, Dave Dahl, Bruce Tickell and I left Lituya Bay in early July and on July 6 after several days of packing loads through the endless moraine of the North Crillon Glacier established Base Camp in the cirque b...
SLIP ON SNOW, AVALANCHE, AND INEXPERIENCE—British Columbia, Mount Robson, Kain Face. Brian Darragh, Claude Ribordy, Jan Straith, Frank Campbell, and Robin White were descending the ridge bordering the Kain Face of Mt. Robson on July 30 due to bad ...
South Early Winter Spire, Southeast Face. In July, 1977 Duane Constantino and I completed in a single day a route which I had begun a year earlier on the southeast face of South Early Winter Spire. The route begins just right of the center of the ...
Janak (Outlier Peak) (7,044m), attempt. In November two members of a Romanian team led by Constantine Lacatusu were the first to climb on to Janak above the upper plateau of the Broken Glacier. This summit west of Jongsang was referred to as Outli...
Nanga Parbat. Our Catalan expedition was composed of Jordi Bosch, Pep Permañé, Ramón Estiu, Xavier Robiró, Iñaki Garijo and me as leader. We climbed the Kinshofer route on the Diamir flank. We established Base Camp and Camps I, II, III and IV at 4...