Around the Roof of the World. Edited by Nicholas and Nina Shoumatoff. The University of Michigan Press, Ann Arbor, 1996. 23 chapters, 23 drawings, and 16 colored plates. Notes, index, 227 pages. Hard cover. $29.95.This fine book by American Alpine...

Kangtega in Winter. Kangtega (6779 meters, 22,241 feet) was climbed in the winter for the first time. Ten South Koreans led by Kyong Soo-Jeon climbed it from the south, establishing three camps, the highest at 5800 meters. On December 31 Lee Dae-S...

BELAY ANCHOR FAILU RE-KNOT CAME UNDONE, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount OwenOn the evening of September 3, a cell phone call reported an Exum client with a sprained anlde on the West Ledges of Mount Owen. Tanya Bradby of Seat...

Pumori, East Face. On October 25, Sherpas Sundare, Ang Dorje and Nima and I got to the top of Pumori. We made the climb directly from Base Camp. With five Sherpas, I had fixed 1500 meters of rope for my seven clients, but not one of them could get...

FALL ON ROCKWashington, Magic MountainOn September 16, 1984, Alex Deak (50) fell while descending the east side of Magic Mountain. His ten meter fall resulted in a broken ankle, and a helicopter evacuation was made. A month earlier, the same indiv...

Dhaulagiri Winter Ascent, January, 1985, Correction. The Poles Czok and Kukuczka climbed the northeast (normal) ridge of Dhaulagiri, not the north face as stated in A.A.J., 1985 on page 293. They reached the summit on January 21.

Peak 4040m, New Route. On April 18, Tomas Gomez Gomez and Massimilliano Montemagno (Spain) established the new route, Eva se Desespera (V+ 75°, 645m), on Peak 4040m , near Afellah N’Ouanoukrim in the Western Atlas. Further details are lacking. (Se...

FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITION Colorado, Eldorado SpringsOn June 21,1986, a Japanese climber was hit by a rock while sitting at the base of a climb on the Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Springs State Park. No other climbers were visible above him when th...

FALL ON ROCKOregon, Three Fingered JackKate Tinnesand (23), a graduate student at Oregon State University and member of Corvallis Mountain Rescue Unit, died in a fall while descending Three Fingered Jack, on July 23, after a climb with two other U...

Southwest Ridge of Mount Moran. Between the many-stepped south and west ridges of Mount Moran there is only one other, the long southwest ridge which leads directly to the summit plateau. John Fonda, Dave Dingman, and Karl Pfiffer climbed this fro...

Batura IV. An expedition of nine Poles and a German led by Wladylaw Wisz succeeded in making the first ascent of Batura IV (7500 meters, 24,607 feet) by the splendid south face. This face of about 11,500 feet had very difficult passages and could ...

Cordillera Jatún Chácua, clarification, and Cerro Janpari, ascent. The Cordillera Jatún Chácua is located south of the Cordillera Raura and north of the Cordillera de la Viuda. The only access is through the mining town of Oyón and up the Pucayacu...

Oesterreich: Austria, her landscape and her art, by Viktor Griessmaier. 60 pages of trilingual text, with 336 full-page photographs. Vienna: Anton Schroll, 1950. Price, $11.00.The newest and most comprehensive pictorial work on Austria, this book ...

Serei Porkush, 1984. More details are available on the first ascent of 6872-meter (22,546-foot) Serei Porkush. The peak lies south of Kampir Dior above the lower part of the Batura Glacier. The British climbers took eight days to ascend the glacie...

Ronti. Mr. Peter Aufschnaiter and I reached the summit of Ronti (19,895 feet) on June 15, 1955. [This was the first ascent. Editor.] Setting out from Nanda Prayag, we ascended the Nanda Kini valley, crossed the Humkum Gala (17,000 feet) and next a...

West Molar, south face. For some time I had hoped there would be a classic line from the east on the main peak of Gladsheim in the Valhalla group; a shortage of information did not tell the true story—of cutoff notches and a final alpine problem. ...

Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park: (2) On July 13, 1952 J. Henry Fortenback (45), received a laceration of the temple caused by a dislodged rock above the cables of Longs Peak. Clifford Doty (30) also received a bruised left knee and leg from ...

Proboscis Variant, Logan Mountains, 1992. Spaniards José María Codina and Joaquín Olmo made the second ascent of the 1963 first-ascent route of Proboscis, with a variant. After climbing the first third of the route, they continued straight up, whe...

California, Yosemite, Serenity Crack. On 20 March, Verne Muhr and Gary Lane were climbing Serenity Crack. Since there already was a party of two on the climb they let them get about halfway up the first pitch then Verne started nailing the first p...

FALL ON SNOW, NOT WEARING CRAMPONSCalifornia, Mount ShastaOn June 11, 1989, Richard Ferrell (45) and his brother Brett Ferrell (31) were climbing on Sergeants Ridge on Mount Shasta. They had ice axes and were carrying (but not wearing) crampons. R...