AVALANCHE, POOR POSITIONNew York, Adirondack High Peaks, Wright PeakOn February 20, one skier was killed and five others injured when they were caught in an avalanche in the Adirondack High Peaks while skiing in an off-trail area. The avalanche oc...
Mountaineering Holiday, by Frank Smythe. 8 vo.; 229 pages, with 24 illustrations and a map. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1940. Price 12/6.This book describes the Alpine vacation and guideless climbing of two experienced English mountaineers. Th...
North post Spire, Bugaboos, North Face. From a camp on the west side of the Vowell Glacier, Jim Alt, Volker Vogt and I in June climbed the north face of Northpost Spire. We ascended easy third-class slopes to the right of the slabs to just below t...
Denali National Park, other ascents. The following information supplements the individual reports above. Ian Welsted and Chris Brazeau started up the Denali Diamond after the Japanese party (see above), and though they skipped the upper four pitch...
FAILED TO TURN BACK, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHER, POOR POSITION–BIVOUAC SITECalifornia, Split MountainIn October, the climb up our twelfth 14,000-foot peak, Split Mountain, did not go well. One member of our climbing party, Dave Fre...
MARW A Ice Screw. An ice screw has been developed in Austria, which is different from the type described in the A.A.J., 1960, 12:1, p. 190. The MARW A ice screws sent to me to test were about 6½" long with a shaft 5/16" in diameter. The upper inch...
Karambony, Sakay, Tsaranoro, The Zoze Wall, and Other New Routes. On July 8, Jim Haden and I arrived in Antananarivo, Madagascar. Within 20 minutes we were slapped in the face with the fact that we had no agenda or local contact. I had planned to ...
Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, by Frank S. Smythe. ix+260 pages, with three maps and 39 illustrations, two in color. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1950. Price, 20/-.There are three kinds of books about mountains. One kind makes scientific speci...
Teton Range, Wyoming: (3) Mount Owen. On 24 August 1947 William McIndoe, a park employee 20 years old, fell to a ledge within 40 yards of the site of the Ramsland accident. This climber had left the valley after a dance the night before, against t...
Huandoy, Peruvian Expedition. Our expedition was made up of Benjamín Morales Arnao, glaciologist, Alcides Ames M. and Wenceslao Gambini I., topographers, Marcelino Morales, Justiniano Huamán, Eugenio Angeles, Pablo Evangelista, Nemesio Figueroa, a...
Bicuspid Tower, Life in the Fast Lane. On our first day on the Tiedemann Glacier, August 20, Graham McDowell, Ryan O’Connell, and I tried to navigate the maze into the Stiletto cirque and our objective, the majestic 2,000' unclimbed granite wall o...
STRANDEDCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyThis report covers two incidents of climbers stranded on Lembert Dome. The first involved Keral Ellingsworth (22), who was spotted by an off-duty park employee. Ellingsworth was lowered to safety by park rangers....
Cerro “Aguilera” Attempt. A Chilean-British expedition jointly led by F. Medina and M. Hickman and comprising nine other climbers and scientists entered the Patagonian Icecap through the Fiordo Andrew and marched toward Cerro “Aguilera” (unofficia...
Warming Land exploration and first ascent. There is a picturesque valley in the extreme north of Greenland that is reminiscent of the Yosemite in California, with vertical walls topped by ice capped domes and mesas. It is intermittently intruded b...
MISSING CLIMBERS–ASSUMED FATAL, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT– SLEEPING BAGS and FUELAlaska, Mt. McKinley, Cassin RidgeTatsuro Yamada (27) and Yuto Inoue (24,) both from Japan, were expected to return from a climb of the Cassin Ridge on May 22. With no sig...
The West Face of ChacrarajuCracking one of South America’s long-standing problemsby Tomaz Zerovnik, Planinska zveza SlovenijeTranslated by Ana Percic1995 . Dusan, Viki, Aci and I stare at the west face of Chacraraju in the Paron Valley,still shock...
Galenstock, Southwest Pillar. The Spaniard Pedro Casanellas and I were attracted by the unclimbed 1500-foot southwest pillar of the Gallenstock. The greatest difficulties lay on the lower half, some 700 feet of extraordinarily compact and overhang...
“Up here, there is more ice than in Europe and Canada combined.” Bold words from Marius Morstad, who invited two alpinists from every UIAA country for an international gathering in Lofoten. “We promise fresh fish daily.” OK, I’m convinced.I land i...
Operation Everest, 1946Charles S. Houston, M.D.DURING the spring and summer of 1946, the U.S. Navy con- ducted one of the most unusual expeditions in mountaineering history. It was a small (but immobile) party of four climbers, with 40 men in supp...
Karun Koh, First Ascent. Our expedition consisted of Oskar Bubbnik, Walter Krampf, Heinz Zimmermann and me as leader. Although we had obtained permission for the K12 group, that area was closed for political reasons. We picked Karun Koh as an alte...