In Memoriam AAJ
Kate Gardiner, 1886-1977

Solo Ascents. I climbed Huayna Potosí on August 9, 1972, Sajama on August 15 and Illimani on August 23. All were solo climbs.Michael Kelsey, Unaffiliated


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Falling/Loose Rock, Unroped, California, Clyde Minaret

FALL ON ROCK, FALLING/LOOSE ROCK, UNROPEDCalifornia, Clyde MinaretOn June 22, 1991, Bruce Parker (45) and Kathy Moore set out to do the fourth class “Starr’s Route” on Clyde Minaret. The route has some high fourth and low fifth class rock with a l...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Everest West Ridge Attempt

Everest West Ridge Attempt. The British Services Everest Expedition attempted to climb Mount Everest from Tibet via the west ridge in the premonsoon period. The members were 17 soldiers, ten sailors and Royal Marines, nine airmen and a TV crew. Fi...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Unroped, Handhold Failure, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cosmology Crag

FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, HANDHOLD FAILURE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cosmology CragAt 1515 on March 31, 1993, J.B., a member of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, contacted Bow Valley Provincial Park to report that an unidentified climber h...


In Memoriam AAJ
Carlton P Fuller, 1898-1984

CARLTON P. FULLER1898-1984Carl Fuller, a lifetime lover of the mountains, distinguished himself in many ways. Born in Mansfield, Massachusetts in 1898 and graduated from Harvard (Phi Beta Kappa) twenty years later, he became a successful banker in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Gangotri, Thalay Sagar, North Face Attempt

Thalay Sagar, north face attempt. A skilled team of seven Koreans, with considerable 8,000m experience, was led by Lee Sang Cho. They attempted to make the second ascent of the 1997 Australian-New Zealand Route up the Central Couloir. The climbers...


Club Activities AAJ
Mountaineering Club of Alaska

Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The year 1973 saw much activity by our members in the Wrangells and, of course, in the mountain ranges visible from Anchorage including the Chugach, Kenai, Talkeetna and western Alaska Ranges. With the aid of accommo...


In Memoriam AAJ
Lawrence Irving Grinnell, 1889-1985

LAWRENCE IRVING GRINNELL 1889-1985Lawrence Grinnell was not perhaps one of our most outstanding climbers, but rather an all-around outdoorsman, who enjoyed mountaineering, mountain hiking and whitewater river running for his personal pleasure and ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rock Foothold Came Loose — Fall on Rock, Washington, North Cascades, Vesper Peak

ROCK FOOTHOLD CAME LOOSE – FALL ON ROCKWashington, North Cascades, Vesper Peak(The following account is edited from a narrative submitted by Steph Abegg, 27.)At 5:00 a.m. on September 14, I pulled up at my sister Jenny’s house in Seattle. We were ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Honboro Peak West, First Ascent; "Bukma Peak," Ascent by South Ridge; Mirkasia Peak, First Ascent Pakistan, Karakoram, Masherbrum Range

The Honboro Group and Shimshak (Mango Gusor) Mountains are located on the other side of the deep Hushe Valley from the better-known Charakusa and Nangma valleys. Andrzej Gluszek, Wojciech Kozub, and I visited these mountains from July 20 to August...

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| Published 2007 | Author Lukasz Depta


Book Reviews AAJ
The Dishonorable Dr. Cook: Debunking the Notorious Mount McKinley Hoax

The Dishonorable Dr. Cook: Debunking the Notorious Mount McKinley Hoax. Bradford Washburn and Peter Cherici. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001.192 pages, 80 BLACK-AND-WHITE PHOTOS, 8 PAGES DUOTONE INSERT, 6 MAPS, HARDCOVER. $29.95.I ask you to...


Feature Article AAJ
The Incredible Hulk

The Incredible HulkHitting the jackpot in the High Sierra, CaliforniaPeter CroftAt three in the morning I couldn’t stand it anymore. Although we had set the alarm for five, I was just too wound up. Catnapping through the night, every hour or so I ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Little Switzerland, Royal Tower, East Buttress and The Throne

Royal Tower, East Buttress, and The Throne. In mid-June, 1994, Ned Lewis enticed me onto the Pica Glacier’s Royal Tower with a beautiful picture of a 1,500-foot unclimbed rock buttress rising out of a smooth glacier. We spent five days hand-drilli...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942—256—231—019—2196047—464—1237—819—419614...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju, West Face, Alpos-Facig Slovenija

Chacraraju, West Face, Alpos-Facig Slovenija. In June, a team of climbers from Slovenia pioneered a route up the west face of Chacraraju (6112 m). The expedition of four climbers (Dusan Debelak, Viktor Mlinar, Igor Oblak and Tomaz Zerovnik) came t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Greenland, Kronprins Frederiks Bjerge,

Kronprins Frederiks Bjerge, East Greenland. In June we visited the east coat of Greenland. We were climbing about 100 miles northeast of Angmagssalik in the Kronprins Frederiks Bjerge. We had Base Camp at 66° 59' N and 35° 40' W on the glacier at ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Cliff above Yale Dam

Washington, Cliff Above Yale Dam—On March 1, late in the afternoon of a sunny day, Charles Haas (17) and Darrell Jones (18) decided to climb the cliff above the Pacific Power and Light Company’s powerhouse at the Yale Dam, Washington. Having no pr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Nevada, Red Rocks, Various Activity

Red Rocks, Various Activity. Due the vastness of the area and the cracks and faces that characterize these pinnacles, several new routes have been added to the throng of classics gracing Red Rocks’ flame-colored features. Roxanna Brock and Gary Fi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, The Sphinx

The Sphinx. A second ascent of the very airy S. or skyline ridge was made by Hans Kraus, Delphine Wilde and Roger Wolcott on 11 August 1946, from a bivouac on upper Dinwoody Glacier. A partially new traverse, beginning near the S. end of the E. fa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Losar, ascent and possible future permit requirement

Losar, ascent and possible future permit requirement. On January 10, 2006 Whit Magro and I climbed the stupendous frozen waterfall, Losar, which lies directly opposite Namche Bazaar. After 1½-hour approach, we took nine hours to reach the top, sim...