Kulti Glacier Basin. The R.A.F. Mountaineering Expedition to Kulu and Spiti led by Group Captain A. J. M. Smyth attempted in late May to reach the Bara Shigri Glacier, but heavy snows on the Rohtang Pass kept them from their objective. They crosse...
Totem Peak, East Face, Southern Purcells. Art Twomey saw that the good late-year weather would be excellent for his latest pipe dream, an ascent of the east face of unclimbed Totem Peak. Even the higher peaks in the St. Mary’s wilderness, usually ...
Colorado—Boulder: Blain St. Clair, a freshman business student, checked out with the Mountaineer’s Register sometime in early 1952 at the University of Colorado and started up “the back route of the rock” alone. He reached the top and started down...
Ellesmere Island. The Innuitian Orogen geological province constitutes a marvelous sandstone desert of mesas and buttes punctuating the icefields. The corridor from Tanquery Fjord to Hazen and to northwest Greenland has been used since the days of...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Owens GorgeOn June 17 a friend, Courtney Smith (?), fell while climbing in Owens Gorge in eastern California. The climb he was on started from a three meter high ledge, ascending about five meters to ...
Rubal Kang. Led by Dilip Kumar Bhattacharya, twelve Bengalis set up Base Camp at 4875 meters at Ratirang on July 30. Seven members and a Sherpa reached the summit (6188 meters, 20,300 feet) on August 3.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
Our expedition was organized by the Japanese Alpine Club, Student Section. The six members were Yasuhiko Iso, Takeshi Ogawa, Kazuya Murayama, Yasuo Kubota, Yuuzo Samura and myself as leader. We wanted to climb Hunter’s east ridge from the Tokositn...
Manaslu. Our expedition was the best and the most successful I have ever been on, not just because we reached the summit, but because of the warm relationship between the members. There was never a single quarrel among the eight of us. Arthur Haid...
Whitechuck Mountain, North Face. On June 5 Larry Cooper, Don Page, Steve Kieffer and I climbed the north face of Whitechuck Mountain, completing eleven roped pitches on rock, snow and some ice. We needed snow flukes and small knifeblade pitons. NC...
South Buttress of the Watchtower. Viewed from Lonesome Lake, the Watchtower presents an elegant 800-foot buttress. On July 18 Charlie Raymond and I began from just inside the couloir south of the Watch- tower. The first pitch went up a ramp leanin...
The Mitre. On August 13th, 1903, Collier, Tewes and C. Bohren ascended Mitre by “a couloir in the south wall and thence over the greatly exposed ridge.” This would seem to have been the first ascent by tourists, since the 1901 ascent was by profes...
Attempt on Reo Purgyol. Gurdial Singh, Balbir Singh, Deepak Capoor, Major Balwant Sandhu and I proceeded beyond Simla to Kalpa, headquarters of Kinnaur District. We travelled along the Sutlej gorge, a truly fascinating countryside, and turned up t...
Mount Carillon, East Face. From below, the topography of the ridges and faces around the Boy Scout Lakes is somewhat confusing. Seeing fine rock walls in the area of Lone Pine Creek’s north fork, Chuck Haas and I chose the attractive, steep east f...
Lemon Mountains, Various Activity. The Lemon Mountains are one of Greenland’s geological freaks; their spiky peaks sit uncomfortably between the usual Greenland domes on either side. You can find them on the map at the northern end of Kangerdlugss...
Choktoi Glacier Area, Various Ascents. It was reported that a British expedition of Alex Franklin, Will Garrett, Fiona Hatchell, Colin Spark and Guy Willett operated in the Choktoi Glacier area in late June and some of July. They attempted Hanipis...
Alpina Americana. No. 1. The High Sierra of California. By Joseph N. LeConte. 1907. No. 2. The Canadian Rocky Mountains. By Charles E. Fay. 1911. No. 3. Mountain Exploration in Alaska. By Alfred H. Brooks. 1914. Each issue now fifty cents per copy.
Bear Creek Spire, North Arête. In August 1971 Jeanne Neale and I climbed this narrow arête which is plainly visible from the roadhead at upper Rock Creek. The northeast ridge is an unroped scramble and should not be confused with the steep slabs o...
Hidden Peak South, Southwest Ridge, and Hidden Peak, Southwest Face. Ours was an ultra-lightweight expedition of only two members, Georges Narbaud and me, without logistic support at Base Camp, high- altitude porters or artificial oxygen. We made ...
Cerro Parón, South-Southeast Face. On August 14, Iñaki San Vicente and I made a new route on the nearly vertical south-southeast face of Cerro Parón or Colca (5325 meters, 17,470 feet). I knew this mountain well, having climbed the east buttress i...
Tirich Mir, South Face, 1978. Not reported in last year’s A.A.J. was a Japanese expedition led by Kotsutoshi Ikebe. They placed Base Camp on June 20, 1978 at 12,800 feet and Camp I at 15,250 feet on the South Barum Glacier. On July 26, 1978 Eiji K...