Haydon Peak on Skis. Our group, consisting of Pierre Beghin, Christian Bougnaud, Jackiepolo Duliand, Alain Gaimard, Michel Poencet, Maurice Poulain and me, landed on May 6 at Yakatat in very bad weather. On May 8 we made a reconnaissance flight of...
Colorado, North Cheyenne Canyon—On November 28, Roger E. Ross (18), Lawrence L. Beckner (17) and Edward Rhodes (17) went from Colorado Springs to the nearby cliffs of Cheyenne Canyon. The area is used by Ft. Carson soldiers for mountaineering prac...
Sierra Nevada de Mérida. This note is contributed to encourage North Americans visiting on business to pack their climbing boots. Access to this range from Mérida, by the world’s highest cable-car system, is now so rapid as to put a premium upon a...
Mount Adams, Pinnacle Glacier Headwall. On June 26 Gary Faulkes and I packed into Killen Creek Meadow on the west side of Mount Adams to climb the northwest ridge route and to reconnoiter the Pinnacle Glacier Headwall, which lies between the north...
Mt. Saugstad. Mt. Saugstad (about 11,000 ft.*) is in the Coast Range of British Columbia, some 13 miles S.E. of the small fishing and lumbering town of Bella Coola. The Mundays and Henry Hall visited the area in three different years and carried o...
Bollinger, East Face, Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range. Dave Goeddel and I completed an exhilarating new route on the vertical east face of Bollinger. The route follows a prominent diagonal crack system for four leads before zigzagging to th...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, ROPE SEVERED New York, ShawangunksOn April 29, a climber (20) became tired while attempting High Exposure, a 5.6 route. He was also off route. He fell, and his rope severed as a result of impact on a sharp ed...
Palcaraju Sur, New Route. Palcaraju Sur (6100m) is at the end of the Cojup range in the Cordillera Blanca. Pedro Gonzales Bris and I established base camp at 4300 meters on July 3 in the ruins of the site Electroperu once used to modify runoffs in...
Pilgrims of the Vertical: Yosemite Rock Climbers and Nature at Risk. Joseph E Taylor III. Harvard University Press, 2010. 384 pages. Hardcover. $29.95.Taylor's unique book stems from an earlier article that has evolved to 276 pages, with another 7...
First Ascents and New Routes, Southern Wind River Range. We are uncertain how much of our route on Mount Temple’s north face, which we did on August 22, is new, but we believe that the upper half, above the glacier, is a complete deviation from a ...
Report on Bolivian Climbing. The year looked good on paper—twelve good new routes, a couple of old classics like Huayna Potosí, innumerable shorter climbs and so forth—but the memory is deadened by the July coup d’état which brought so much pain t...
Scottish East Greenland Expedition to Southern Staunings Alps. The following members of the mountaineering clubs of St. Andrews University, Dr. Philip Gribbon (Leader), Ian Wasson, John Wedderburn, Ian Wilkinson and of the Royal College of Science...
British Mountaineering Council Meet. Mark Hutchinson, our British Mountaineering Council host, has a most enjoyable and charismatic personality and did an unsurpassable job of organizing the meet and in particular of arranging an itinerary which a...
Peak 12,360' South Ridge. In mid-April Jon Miller and I left Fairbanks for a climb of the obvious line on the south face of Peak 12,360'. Situated between Mt. Hayes and Mt. Shand, this unnamed peak is the third highest peak in the Hayes Range. We ...
Pumori. A Japanese expedition led by Yasuo Iwazoe successfully climbed the normal, south ridge of Pumori. From Camp III, after a bivouac, on October 21 Ryoichi Hamada, Michio Sugawara and Hiroyuki Mizuguchi got to the summit (7145 meters, 23,442 f...
In 2003, in Chamonix, France, conditions were good, and alpinists in heaven. I heard whispers in the lift lines of an American woman, an accomplished alpinist. The whispers carried awe, respect, and stories of the Croz Spur on the north face of th...
On a rainy day in early spring 2005, I walked below Lower Cathedral Rock and Middle Cathedral Rock. As I came to the base of the Gunsight, the gully that splits Lower and Middle, I gazed at the sweeping north-northwest face of Middle. A hast...
Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing. Jeff Lowe. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1996. 256 pages, color photos. $29.95.Waterfall Ice: Jeff Lowe’s Climbing Techniques. Arctic Wolf, Nederland, Colorado, 1995. Video. 180 minutes. $...
The Citadel, Supa Dupa Couloir. While climbing Off the Wall Madness in 2002, Twid Turner and I were amazed by a couloir running vertically, straight to the summit. In 2003 we were back for more, accompanied by Ollie Sanders. The Shadows Glacier wa...
FALLING ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn July 12, 1981, Lori Rose and Climbing Ranger Randy Harrington climbed Sentinel Turret in Death Canyon. At the beginning of the second pitch, a large (approximately 10” × 4”) rock came hurtling down from above and hit...