Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, previously unreported ascents. In 2004 Marco Kuppianen and I came close to onsighting Moby Dick. I fell on the 28th pitch and had to make a couple of aid moves on the 30th (7c+) pitch. We led in two blocks. Marco led the...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION—BAD FOOT PLACEMENT FOR SETTING PROWashington, Mount Erie, Snag ButtressI am a climber of about three years, much of that indoors. On October 26, my friend Mark, a very experienced climber, was tea...
Royal Society Range. The peak at 78° 50' S and 163° W terminates a ridge running east and west. From a camp near the junction of the Walcott and Radian glaciers I followed the obvious corniced ridge. The 2000-foot climb consisted of easy step kick...
Tasermiut fjord, Kirkespiret, Alpin Glow; Nalumasortoq, Nagguteeqqat. I first saw the granite walls of Tasermiut at a slide show in Murcia. After several years of climbing in the Alps and Yosemite, I was ready for them, but had done too much train...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTINCTSNorth Carolina, Table Rock, Talkin' 'Bout MudflapsDuring the morning of October 17, Jeff Pock (36) fell while climbing Talkin’ ’Bout Mudflaps (5.11) causing his first piece of...
Trisul. Trisul (23,360 feet) was attempted by a 24-member team from Baroda led by Deepak Ambegaonkar, who died on June 13 from a slip on the mountain.Sohli S. Mehta, Himalayan Club
Arctic DisciplineModem techniques and old-fashioned grit in the coldest pocket of Canada by Jack RobertsI was bored. Bored with all the sport climbing I had been doing and bored with most of the ice. Sure, the routes themselves were technical and ...
On Edge: The Life & Climbs of Henry Barber. Chip Lee, with David Roberts and Kenneth Andrasko. Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston, 1982. 291 pages, black and white photographs. $14.95.At age 28, Henry Barber makes a problematic subject for the ...
Bhrigupanth. We climbed Bhrigupanth (6772 meters, 22,220 feet), above the Kedar valley. First, we had hoped to climb Thalay Sagar, but there was too much snow. We established Base Camp, Advance Base, Camps I, II and III at 4000, 4600, 5300, 5500 a...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWest Virginia, Nelson Rocks PreserveWest Virginia State Police say Amanda Joy Crawford was climbing a “via ferrata” (iron way) at the Nelson Rocks Preserve in Pendleton County when she unhooked one of her lines t...
Fitz Roy, Slovak Route, third ascent and first free ascent; Desmochada, El Facón. Patagonian weather seemed like it was never going to let up this season for any long spell. Does it ever? December brought more snow than all of most winters. In one...
First Ascent of Mt. Drum. On June 4, 1954, the bush pilot, Herb Haley, flew Keith Hart from Chitna to a little meadow, southwest of Mt. Drum (12,002 feet), a place which Keith knew from a previous unsuccessful attempt on the mountain. George Schal...
CONCLUSIONThe accident record of American mountaineering has improved very substantially during the past five years. Although this fact is a source of much encouragement, the efforts which have contributed to this reduction must be continued unrel...
Torre Egger (2,850m), west face, attempt. In December 2011 and January 2012 Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo della Bordella made attempts to climb the west face of Torre Egger. They followed the large corner system on the left side of the face, which ...
Makalu. A Spanish expedition led by Joaquim Prunés was composed of Jordi Agulló, Jordi Anglés, Serge Benet, Antoni Bros, Josep Cañellas, César Comas, Adrià Font, Jaume Segura, Narcés Serrat, Jaume Sorolla and Francesc Zamora. They climbed the Kuku...
FALL ON ROCK - RAPPEL ERROR, INADEQUATE PROTECTION- OLD ANCHOR WEBBING PARTED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT - NO HEADLAMPSKentucky, Red River Gorge, Emerald CityOn November 4, the bodies of Benjamin Strohmeier (18) and Laura Fletcher (18) were found near ...
Mt. McKinley s Slovak RouteSeeking the vision in the Alaska RangeScott BackesDuring the long flight, I debated, internally and incessantly, the conundrum: Was I over it? Was I too old? Or did I need more? What was out there for me? Why go back aga...
The Mighty Sierra, by Paul Webster. Palo Alto: American West Publishing Co. 1972. 287 pages, over 200 illustrations, 70 color plates. $17.50Gentle Wilderness, The Sierra Nevada was published almost a decade ago by the Sierra Club as part of their ...
Autumn 2005-Spring 2006, summary. In 2005 climbing slowly began to pick up again in Wadi Rum, and just before Easter 2006 many climbers and trekkers were active. Visitors are advised to have travel and sports activity insurance, even if climbing w...
North Arête of Mount Stuart, Cascades. Mount Stuart, a huge granite peak, soars to 9500 feet above the Cashmere Crags and the country of Ingalls Creek. Most of the previous ascents were made on the south face. The north face was climbed once, by H...