Cerro “Aguilera” Attempt. A Chilean-British expedition jointly led by F. Medina and M. Hickman and comprising nine other climbers and scientists entered the Patagonian Icecap through the Fiordo Andrew and marched toward Cerro “Aguilera” (unofficia...
Warming Land exploration and first ascent. There is a picturesque valley in the extreme north of Greenland that is reminiscent of the Yosemite in California, with vertical walls topped by ice capped domes and mesas. It is intermittently intruded b...
MISSING CLIMBERS–ASSUMED FATAL, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT– SLEEPING BAGS and FUELAlaska, Mt. McKinley, Cassin RidgeTatsuro Yamada (27) and Yuto Inoue (24,) both from Japan, were expected to return from a climb of the Cassin Ridge on May 22. With no sig...
The West Face of ChacrarajuCracking one of South America’s long-standing problemsby Tomaz Zerovnik, Planinska zveza SlovenijeTranslated by Ana Percic1995 . Dusan, Viki, Aci and I stare at the west face of Chacraraju in the Paron Valley,still shock...
Galenstock, Southwest Pillar. The Spaniard Pedro Casanellas and I were attracted by the unclimbed 1500-foot southwest pillar of the Gallenstock. The greatest difficulties lay on the lower half, some 700 feet of extraordinarily compact and overhang...
“Up here, there is more ice than in Europe and Canada combined.” Bold words from Marius Morstad, who invited two alpinists from every UIAA country for an international gathering in Lofoten. “We promise fresh fish daily.” OK, I’m convinced.I land i...
Operation Everest, 1946Charles S. Houston, M.D.DURING the spring and summer of 1946, the U.S. Navy con- ducted one of the most unusual expeditions in mountaineering history. It was a small (but immobile) party of four climbers, with 40 men in supp...
Karun Koh, First Ascent. Our expedition consisted of Oskar Bubbnik, Walter Krampf, Heinz Zimmermann and me as leader. Although we had obtained permission for the K12 group, that area was closed for political reasons. We picked Karun Koh as an alte...
U.S.S.R. A Soviet press dispatch quoted in “Die Alpen” gives a review of mountaineering in 1953 in the U.S.S.R. The sport seems to have become very popular; they claim to have 17,000 mountain climbers, many of whom participated in climbs from the ...
Cheo Himal Attempt and Tragedy. There was an attempt on an unclimbed mountain, a British try on Cheo Himal (6820 meters, 22,375 feet) in the Peri Himal not far from the Manaslu area, a peak which had never been attempted before. This pioneering ef...
The North Face of KangtegaPerseverance on a Himalayan wallValeri Babanov, RussiaKangtega…. What does it mean to me?Some time has passed. I’m trying to bring meaning to my own work on the north face of Kangtega, to appraise it. Victory or defeat? B...
Pik Kommunizma. Our team was composed of Ken Bures, Al Bernsconi, Chuck Betcher, Dan Aguillar, Dave Grier, Al Chambard, Ken Asvitt, LaVerne Woods, Dan Holle, Tim Gage, Gunter Bergner, Burt Falk, Jim Scott, and me as leader. We ascended the mountai...
Verónica, Soray, Salcantay. In May and June 1956 the French guide, Lionel Terray, the Dutch geologists, C. G. Egeler and Tom de Booy, and the Swiss, Raymond Jenny, made three remarkable ascents west of Cusco. From camp at 15,400 feet on the northe...
Kinnaur Kailas, Spiti. This 21,240-foot peak beat back yet another attempt. The Indian Army expedition was led by Major D.K. Khullar. The approach to this peak poses the greatest problem.Soli S. Mehta, Himalayan Club
PAUL KIESOW PETZOLDT 1908-1999Legendary mountaineer, educator and conservationist Paul Kiesow Petzoldt died in Maine on October 6.From the moment of his birth on January 16, 1908, Paul’s character was forged on an anvil of resourceful poverty with...
Piks Shumkar (4,925m, Falcon), Helen (4,710m), Bars (4,800m, Snow Leopard), Pik Kumay (Vulture, 4,830m), first ascents. Time flies. This was the International School of Mountaineering (ISM)’s 14th expedition to the Tien Shan, and it was as great a...
Oregon, Mt. Hood—A party consisting of 30 members (men, women and children) of the Sierra Club climbed Mt. Hood on August 19, 1955 from Timberline Lodge to the summit via the normal route (all class 2 and 3). The party was led by Gene Todd, an exp...
Sierra Club Ascents in the Canadian RockiesNorman ClydeFOR its summer outing of 1928 the Sierra Club of California decided upon a trip to the Canadian Rockies. Two base camps of about ten days each were contemplated: one in the Tonquin Valley, the...
GeographicalDistricts1951-731974Number of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta512066000British Columbia77261095343Yukon Territory9822126Ontario111000Quebec111000West Arctic112000Practice...
STORM clouds were thickening. Herb Staley, Mel Marcus and I pushed rapidly up a steep rock buttress, apparently the only approach to the South Peak of Mount Hozomeen. When we reached the tip of the buttress, we could catch only glimpses of the gau...