Parchamo, Rolwaling Himal. On October 14 Cosimo Zappelli, Giovanni Martinelli, Carlo Buzzi and Alberto Rauzi climbed Parchamo (20,-577 feet) above the Teshi Lapcha pass.
At the end of June our team of Ines Bozic Skok and Janez Skok (Slovenia), and Hannes Mair and I (Austria), established base camp under the Great Tower (Shingu Charpa). After a few days of acclimatization and rock scouting, we carried a tent and eq...
El Capitan’s West ButtressLayton KorThe spring of 1963 seemed almost unreasonable: storm after storm kept the Valley walls plastered and the climbers grounded. As the bad weather continued, our patience began to fade. Finally Eric Beck and I decid...
Alone on Denali’s South FaceMark HesseI WAS AT AN IMPASSE. Seated on my pack with my elbows on my knees and my chin buried in the palms of my hands, I stared intently at the face. I had ventured out across the glacier only two hundred yards before...
NED GILLETTE 1945-1998“Ned left me and a lot of us with the courage, passion and imagination to push on, to go and live our dreams.”—Susie Patterson GilletteNed Gillette, 53, was killed by two bandits on August 5, 1998, in the Haramosh Valley of n...
First Winter Ascent of North Face, Grand TetonGeorge LoweWHEN one’s climbing is limited by such mundane considerations as a lack of time or money because one happens to be a student, the winter Tetons provide excellent substitutes for some of the ...
DAVID CHEESMOND 1952–1987David Cheesmond was so well described by Michael Kennedy in Climbing of October 1987 that I quote extensively from that issue. “By the time we met on the Kahiltna Glacier below Mount McKinley on a May afternoon in 1981, Da...
Ulamertorssuaq, Left-Hand Tower. High quality big-wall-type climbs can be found in the Tasermiut Fjord region of South Greenland. Many lines have not had ascents. The Ulamertorssuaq Towers form a line of three satellite peaks to the main mass of U...
Quechua Names in the Northern Peruvian Andes and Their MeaningsCésar Morales Arnao,1 Club Andino Peruano Translated by H. Adams CarterIt is not hard to express oneself in everyday Quechua. What is difficult is to give an etymological explanation o...
FALL ON ROCK, NUT/CAM PULLED OUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESTennessee, Sunset Rock, Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military ParkThe park received a report of a serious fall and injury to a male climber (23) beneath Sunset Rock in the park’s Lookout...
Mountaineer: Thirty Years of Climbing on the World’s Great Peaks. Chris Bonington. Diadem Books, London, and Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1989. 192 pages, numerous color illustrations. £17.95 or $29.95.Chris Bonington’s latest book, his tenth...
The Last Blue Mountain, by Ralph Barker. London: Chatto & Windus, 1959- 212 pages, 22 ills. Price 21s. New York: Doubleday, 1960. Price $3.95.This is not just another book of the expedition; it is different in two important respects. First it ...
Mount Vancouver, West Face. Mount Vancouver was first climbed in 1938 by Noel Odell and party. Our ascent, the fifth, was by the previously unclimbed west face. We flew in from Kluane on May 27. After four days of avalanche watching, we had some...
Photography of the Kangto Range. During a trek to the East Kamang district in October-November, Harish Kapadia took photos of the enigmatic high peaks straddling the Arunachal-Tibet border. These form what is generally referred to as the Kangto Ra...
Arrigetch Peaks, Western Brooks Range. On July 9 Dave Dahl, Jock Richardson, Bill Zaumen and I flew from Betties to Takahula Lake and began the long walk into the Arrigetch Peaks. By early evening of the next day we reached our base camp in Aiyago...
BELAY FAILURE—Washington, The Tooth. Jack Bartleson (46) was injured while climbing on the southwest corner of The Tooth on April 24.The accident occurred as Bartleson was being belayed by Don Brooks while a second rope team consisting of Jim Llew...
FALL ON SNOW, UNROPED, POOR POSITION Colorado, Mount Sneffles(Following is a letter from Adam Beal [early 20’s] to a friend.)Our plan was to set up a base camp on Sunday, and then do a technical ascent of Mount Sneffles on June 24. The climb up Mo...
Cholatse from the WestAndrew SeltersOUR CHOLATSE CLIMB proved to me the value of setting ambitions high enough to make life interesting but modest enough to let life in general remain the truer goal. We had no illusions about an ultimate climb, bu...
Siguniang, north face attempt; Siguniang North, attempt; Camel Peaks. The Siguniang Group was visited in May by UK alpinists, Tom Chamberlain, Dave Evans, Dave Hollinger, and Andy Sharpe. This team, which set up Base Camp in the Chang Ping, had as...
Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. Bob McDougall and I spent our first six days in the spires getting acquainted with the sleet and snow storms characteristic of the Kichatnas, and moving our supplies despite them. After landing on the Tatina G...