Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, California, Mount Shasta

AVALANCHECalifornia, Mount ShastaOn April 2, 1983, Wes Wagnon (31), Don Zimmerlin (30) and Julian Harrison (28) attempted a climb of the south side of Mount Shasta via the Green Butte Ridge. About 1400, noting that the weather was becoming unstabl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Poor Position, Weather, Alaska, Mount Foraker

AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, WEATHERAlaska, Mount ForakerOn April 6, the Talkeetna Ranger Station received mountaineering registration forms for Kevin Strawn (27), Travis Strawn (21) and Colby Strawn (15). They intended to climb both the West Rib on ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Cuernos del Paine, Patagonia

Cuernos del Paine, Patagonia. Our group of four university students, José P. Pagano, Norberto Sampietro, Carlos Luis Bonfico and I, left Puerto Natales by truck for the Paine region, where with the help of ranchers, who provided horses, we set up ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Central Karakoram, Baintha Brakk, Attempts

Baintha Brakk, Attempts. It was reported that Germans Jan Mersch and Jochen Hasse attempted the South Pillar on Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. the Ogre, 7285m), reaching 6250 meters. (High Mountain Sports 183)


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Denali National Park, The Fin, Fin Wall to Summit Ridge; Rogue Peak, First Ascent, Northeast Face; Mantok 1, First Ascent, All Talk Couloir

The Fin, Fin Wall to summit ridge; Rogue Peak, first ascent, northeast face; Mantok 1, first ascent, All Talk Couloir. In early May on the northeast fork of the Yentna Glacier, Peter Doucette, Ben Gilmore, and Freddie Wilkinson climbed the remote ...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Climber's Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada

A Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada. By Howard Palmer and J. Monroe Thorington. 1930. Revised edition ; 244 pages. Now $1.25 to members; $2.00 to non-members.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Tulainyo Tower, East Face

Tulainyo Tower, East Face. One mile northwest of Tulainyo Lake is a large granite spire facing east into a cirque at the head of one of the forks of George Creek. If that sounds confusing, Tulainyo Lake is only two miles north of Mount Whitney as ...


Club Activities AAJ
Stanford Alpine Club

Stanford Alpine Club. While the Stanford Alpine Club has not made any major ascents in the last year, it has organized several very successful outings. Notable was a five-day pack trip into Rainbow Bridge National Monument in April. This was well ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Lawrence Coolidge, 1905-1950

LAWRENCE COOLIDGE1905–1950A life full of accomplishment and promise came to an untimely end with the death of Lawrence Coolidge on 3 January 1950, just two weeks before his 45th birthday.At college, where he rowed and played football, he was one o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Adamant Range, Gothic Peak, South Face; The Stickle, South Face

Gothic Peak, south face; The Stickle, south face. Fred Beckey recruited and led our party from Squamish and Pemberton, B.C. into the Adamant Range this summer. The trip produced two new high-quality free climbs on good granite. Our first and main ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Gesellschaft Alpiner Bücherfreunde

Gesellschaft Alpiner Bücherfreunde. The annual subscription to this Munich organization (founded 1928; Schellingstr. 39) is RM. 10, plus RM. 1.60 postage, for which one receives three to four books, usually rare classics in German translation. Its...


Book Reviews AAJ
Khumbu Himal (Nepal)

Khumbu Himal (Nepal), edited by Forschungsunternehmung Nepal Himalaya (Research Scheme Nepal Himalaya), Schloss Nymphenburg Nordflügel, Munich 19, Germany: 1965. Price $2.50.This excellent map finally gives us a highly accurate picture of the terr...


Club Activities AAJ
Mountaineering Club of Alaska

Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The club saw an increase in membership during the past year; over 200 members are now listed. An active climbing and hiking schedule was maintained throughout the year. Trips into the Chugach Mountains, the Alaska, T...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, The Far North, Jensenland, Explorations of Most Northerly Land

Jensenland, explorations of most northerly land. This was the seventh in a series of joint European and American expeditions to explore the peninsulas, mountains, and islands at the extreme North of Greenland. Our exploration of the world’s most n...


In Memoriam AAJ
Ruprecht Otto Kammerlander, 1940-1975

RUPRECHT OTTO KAMMERLANDER1940-1978You entered our lives as a warm wind on melting snow, a newness that startled and changed.You lived life on the edge, pulling us up with you at times to share the view.You climbed with us, laughed with us, cried ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Voyager Peak (12,213'), South Face, To the Center Alaska, Denali National Park

In the first week of May, Mark Allen and I set up base camp at Kahiltna International, then headed off for the rarely visited northwest fork of Lacuna Glacier. We had learned about the Lacuna the previous winter, while digging around for objective...

| Published N/A | Author Graham Zimmerman


Feature Article AAJ
The First Ascent of Mt. Coppercrown

The First Ascent of Mt. CoppercrownA. A. McCoubreyMOUNT Coppercrown (10,218 ft.), is situated in the central Purcells at the source of Coppercrown Creek (a tributary of Toby Creek) and some twenty-five miles southwest of Lake Windermere, B. C.From...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Unknown Mountain

The Unknown Mountain, by Don Munday. 8vo., 268 pp., photographs and map. London, 1948: Hodder and Stoughton, Ltd. Price, 21/-.The story of the exploration of the Mount Waddington area of the British Columbia Coast range has long called for a book;...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Makalu and Lhotse, the Last of Messner's 8000ers

Makalu and Lhotse, the Last of Messner’s 8OOOers. Our expedition was composed of Reinhold Messner, Hans Kammerlander, Friedl Mutschlechner, Giuseppe Enzio, Fernando Bernascone, Wolfgang Tomaset, Denis Ducroz, Giuliano De Marchi, Sabine Stehle, Bri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell, Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, Previously Unreported Ascents

Ulamertorssuaq, Moby Dick, previously unreported ascents. In 2004 Marco Kuppianen and I came close to onsighting Moby Dick. I fell on the 28th pitch and had to make a couple of aid moves on the 30th (7c+) pitch. We led in two blocks. Marco led the...