Api, Winter Ascent and Tragedy. Api (7132 meters, 23,399 feet) is difficult to approach and the climbing route is long and dangerous. It was first climbed in 1960 by Katsutoshi Irabayashi, Gyaltsen Norbu, M. Terashi and Y. Tsuda from the northwest...
Tocllaraju (possible new route); La Esfinge; Huandoy Sur, new route to summit ridge. I went to Peru in early June, headed straight to Huaraz, the “Chamonix of South America,” and spent three months climbing in the Cordillera Blanca.After acclimati...
Tilitso Attempt. Eight Spaniards led by José Luis García wanted to climb the north ridge, the normal route on Tilitso. Very deep fresh snow defeated them. It took seven days to ferry the loads from where the porters had dumped them, refusing to go...
Hydrology, edited by Oscar E. Meinzer. 8vo., 712 pages; illustrations, charts and tables. New York: McGraw Hill, 1943. Price $7.50.A monumental work, to which 22 different scientists have contributed 15 chapters, covering almost every phase of hyd...
The Alaskan MileA winter circumnavigtion of the McKinley and Foraker massifsby Daryl MillerIn 1794, the first observations of the Mount McKinley and Mount Foraker massifs were recorded by George Vancouver. Since then, only a single team has experi...
The Springs of Enchantment—Climbing and Exploration in Patagonia. John Earle. Hodder and Stoughton, London, 1981. 191 pages, black and white illustrations, maps. £7.95.Though written in 1980, The Springs of Enchantment is like a book from the past...
West Face of Mount Huntington, Alpine-Style. Since the climb would be a second ascent, following the Harvard route, one should up the ante: do it alpine-style. Jeff Bevan, Randy McGregor, Bruce Wehman and I flew to the Tokositna Glacier on June 25...
Cochamó, Cerro Capicua, Los Gorilas del Norte and Los Tigres del Norte. Tom Holzhauser, Dominik Angehrn, my brother Michi, and I arrived without plans in Cochamó in early January 2009. After checking the area we decided on Cerro Capicua, which had...
Shivling Attempt. Our expedition was composed of geologists and climbers: Tony Rex, Mike Norry, Paul Metcalf, Nick Groves, Alan Newby, Jill Peacegood, Jon Tinker, Mark Miller, Simon Nathan and me, United Kingdom; Maryrose Fowlie, New Zealand; Patr...
South Ridge of Drizzlepuss. On July 6, 1957 William Cropper and John Dietschy took ten hours to climb the sharp ridge from Leigh Canyon to the summit of Drizzlepuss, the well known pinnacle at the base of the east face of Mount Moran. They avoided...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, CLIMBING ALONE, FATIGUEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 19 about 7:30 a.m., RMNP Dispatch received a cellphone call from a visitor reporting an accident and requesting help on Longs...
Steele Glacier SurgeWalter A. WoodFROM time to time dramatic natural events occur which overflow the frontiers of scientific concern and attract the attention and interest of a broad segment of the lay community. Earthquakes, volcanic eruptions an...
Lillooet Ice Field, Coast Range. Long approaches over rough terrain have preserved the Lillooet Ice Field area from exploration. Until 1960, only the perimeter of approximately 800 square miles of mountain and glacier had been explored. While maki...
How did five able and intelligent California Funhogs get involved in the Expedition Game? Shouldn’t we have known? Sure. It happened by accident really; we hadn’t planned it that way. It all began one sunny morning in Ventura, California. I was vi...
A further note. The February 1958 issue of Der Bergsteiger, pp. 198-202, has an excellent account of the Chinese expedition to Minya Konka written by the leader, Shih Chan-Chun. The criticisms so justly made by Terris Moore of the article in Peopl...
A New Route on the Petit DruWest Face DirectRoyal RobbinsIN July, Gary Hemming and I made a new route on the northwest shoulder of the Dru, one of the most striking peaks in the Mont Blanc massif. This route, about 1600 feet long on a 3000-foot fa...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, UNROPED, RAD WEATHER, OFF ROUTE AT NIGHT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn September 12, 1992, James H. (38) and Charles B. (30) met at Moraine Lake to climb the East Ridge of Mount Temple. They set off at 1300, intending ...
On the morning of May 16 at 0545, the Angolo Dell’ Avventura Expedition team of Luciano Colombo (67), Mauro Colombo, and Paolo Civera left the 17,200-foot camp for a summit attempt. While gearing up to leave, they decided they would not rope up ...
The Story Of Mont AiguilleJ. Monroe ThoringtonCURiosiTY and necessity, pilgrimages and military campaigns, were among the early motives in man’s approach to mountains. One peak, however, was attained by royal command, and this is its story. Mont A...
Climbing the Pico de OrizabaGeorges EstoppeyTHE Aztec name of Pico de Orizaba is “Citlaltepetl” meaning “Star Mountain.”The Pico de Orizaba is situated between Mexico City and Vera Cruz, in Latitude 18° 59' and Longitude 97° 16'. It is the highest...