St. Elias Range, Various Ascents. On August 2, Tiffany Scrymgeour, Rafael Grana, Jon Webb, Chris Brick, Steve Sheriff, Kim Beatty, Brendan Beatty, Gray Thompson, Eloise Thompson, and I put on to the Tatshenshini River at Dalton Post, Yukon Territo...
Mt. Baker, Crater Route. An ascent of 10,100-foot Sherman Peak (the south peak of Mt. Baker) in 1959 gave us a view directly down into the summit crater separating us by ¾ of a mile from the 10,778-foot main peak. A traverse of the crater’s west r...
DAVID W. MEASUROLL1905-1966David W. Measuroll, retired vice president of the First Pennsylvania Banking and Trust Co., was born in Hightstown, New Jersey, on January 25, 1905. On September 26, 1966, while vacationing, he died suddenly at Dorset, V...
Longs Peak: The Story of Colorado’s Favorite Fourteener. Dougald MacDonald. Englewood, CO: Westcliffe Publishers, 2004.240 pages. Paperback. $24.95.From a speeding airliner high over the American West you gaze down upon many mountains. But even th...
SiulÁ ChicoThe first ascent of a huge ice wall in the Cordillera Huayhuash of Peru.JORDI COROMINASOutside in the urban night it is snowing. The cold wind howls intensely off the port. After dinner, without the help of either drink or smoke, our co...
Ayres Crag Number Five. The most outstanding crag wall above Cascade Canyon is about three miles along the trail and is known as Ayres Crag Number Five, Its startling, nearly vertical, 1100-foot-high profile identifies it. Its sheer south face had...
Hawaian Islands, Oahu, Koolau Range—On the morning of September 5, 1960 (Labor Day) the Reverend Irwin Jackson (30+) pastor of the Kaimuki Christian Church in Honolulu, led a picnic-hiking group of one adult and 12 teenagers into Manoa Valley in b...
Yosemite Valley, various activity. (Editor’s note: Several of the ascents mentioned in this summary, particularly new routes, appear in greater detail as individual reports below.) In 2001, Yosemite continued to be an arena of significant free-cli...
Cassin Route Variant—Mount McKinleyBENOIT RENARD, Club Alpin FrançaisOUR expedition landed on June 27 in Anchorage, where we spent the next day buying a little food and equipment, though most of it had been brought from France. On June 29, at Talk...
Mt. Hood’s south side, about 24 hours after the avalanche on May 31, 1998. (A) The 300-foot crown fracture extended across the whole slope above Crater Rock, varying from one to five feet high. (B) The Hogsback bergschrund, below the Pearly Gate...
Schweizerland, Various Activity. From July 22-August 22, Britons A1 Powell, Kenton Cool, Pete and Andy Benson, Andy MacNae and Richard Spillet achieved ten free climbs and much sun bathing on south-facing walls at the head of the 16th September Gl...
The Boys of Everest: Chris Bonington and the Tragedy of Climbing’s Greatest Generation. Clint Willis. New York: Carroll and Graf, 2006. Black and white photos. 535 pages. Hardcover. $27.95.I confess my initial reaction to hearing the title of Clin...
Mount Everest, Northeast Ridge. The Nihon University Mountaineering Club and Alumni Association determined to mount an all-out effort to climb this long route, one of the two last remaining major unclimbed routes on Mount Everest, on the occasion ...
A Mes Montagnes, by Walter Bonatti. Translated into French from Italian by F. Germain, Collection Sempervivum No. 38. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1962. 291 pages, 41 illustrations, 5 maps and sketches.This superb mountaineering chronicle has more hair-rais...
A Joint Committee of the American Alpine Club and the Mountain Rescue AssociationIn this pioneer effort to report on alpine rescue in North America no attempt will be made to cover all rescue efforts. In future years, however, as the reporting pro...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Half DomeOn August 4 about 0800, two climbers reported to Ranger Steve Yu that one member of their party of five Koreans had broken his right leg in a fall the previous day on the Regular Northwest Face (VI...
Cerro Torre FreeBy an accident of timing, the long-coveted first free ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre takes place without Maestri’s holts as protection.David LamaI returned to El Chalten on January 12. My goal of free-climbing Cerro T...
Gothics East Peak and Sundry Other MattersAndrew John Kauffman, 2ndTWICE in my climbing career it has been my good fortune to join forces with the same two pleasant companions. It was on the 1946 St. Elias Expedition that my admiration for Bill Pu...
HENRY BALDWIN de VILLIERS SCHWAB 1887-1935It is hard to realize that Henry Schwab, my companion of three happy summers in the Canadian Rockies and good friend ever since, has gone. We first met in 1921, I having previously heard of him as a mounta...
California, Sierra Nevada, Middle Fork Lone Pine Creek (Whitney Portal). On 11 January Frederick C. Scheberies (27) arrived at the climbing area at approximately 9:30 a.m. with other climbers. He strapped on crampons and carried an ice axe, but wa...