Southeastern Rock, Harrison Shull. Asheville, NC: Harrison Shull, 2003. 144 pages, 250 photographs. Hardcover. $39.95.Having accidentally tucked this book in the seat pocket of my van, I carried it around with me on a road trip for several months....
Red Rocks Select. 500 Selected Routes in the Red Rocks of Nevada. Todd Swain. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1993. 186 pages, 42 black-and- white photographs, 20 sketch maps, numerous topos. $18.00.The desert is a land of contrasts and Red...
Brenva, by T. Graham Brown. 8vo., 225 pages, with 72 photographs and a map. London: J. M. Dent and Sons Ltd., 1944. Price 25 s.The Brenva face of Mont Blanc, facing almost directly toward the Italian side of the Col du Geant, is one of the few gre...
Stortind’s Unclimbed Southwest RidgePaul Richins, Jr.HÅVARD nesheim had viewed with awe the impressive, unclimbed southwest ridge of Stortind many times from the Ullsfjorden ferry. The ferry is the main transportation link between the quaint villa...
Hunter’s Peak (5,360m), northeast face, attempt. Ahn, Chi-young, and I attempted a new route on the northeast face of Hunter’s Peak, a.k.a. Lieren Feng. A Japanese-authored photograph book with English text (The Goddess on the Mountains in Southwe...
Pasang Lhamu Peak, Second Official Ascent. On April 22, 1993, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa became the first woman of Nepal to climb to the summit of Everest; unfortunately, she died while descending. In Nepal, she became a national heroine. The government ...
Tuolumne Meadows, 1985. Tuolumne has finally gone the way of most other major climbing areas; every cliff, no matter how tiny or obscure, has had routes put up on it. There was lots of activity in 1985, and not all of the reported routes are liste...
Oregon, Mt. Hood, October 1963. On 21 July Dr. Eberhard Gloecker, Robert Shoemaker and Dr. Mark Hanschka set out from Cloud Cap at 2:40 P.M. for the summit of Mt. Hood via the Sunshine Route. Dr. Gloecker soon noticed the other two seemed to tire ...
Spearhead Mountain, Midevil Wall. From March 22-25 Ammon McNeely and I established Midevil Wall (V 5.9 A3+) over three days. The first day we climbed approach pitches to a killer bivy at the base of the wall. We climbed three pitches the next day ...
CEREBRAL EDEMAAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 2, 1982, a six-member guided Mountain Trip party led by Gary Bocarde flew to the Kahiltna Glacier to climb the North Buttress of Mount McKinley. On May 6, the party established an advance base on the Pete...
FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS-FALL ON SNOWCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Wintun Ice FallOn June 24, David Lowe (24) was glissading at 13,500 feet with his crampons on. His crampons caught and threw him into a tumble, and his leashed ice ax penetrated his thig...
K2—Giant of the KarakoramDave BohnTragic news reached me in late November, for I learned of the death of Günter Jahr, hit by an automobile in Munich while riding his motorcycle. Though Günter spoke no English, and I no German, we shared twelve fin...
Peak 6,482', The Reach Around; and Peak 6,482', and Slow and Delirious. In spring 2005 two routes were started on Peak 6,482', unnamed but known in the local climbing community as G-l. G-l is short for Mt. Greer, named in honor of the Greer brothe...
This is the thirty-eighth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the eighth that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: There was a substantial decrease in the numbe...
AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains North, Durrand GlacierOn January 20, a group of eleven backcountry skiers was caught in an avalanche. Three people were able to extricate themselves and they dug out one injured person. Seven other skie...
Nalumasortoq, Planeta Spisek, New Route, and Ulamertorssuaq, Ascents. The Polish Greenland 2000 expedition climbing team consisted of Jacek Fluder, Janusz Golab, Stan Piecuch, and Marcin Tomaszewski. They were accompanied by a small television tea...
Everest, West Ridge Attempt. Our team members were Jim Sano, leader; Chas Macquarie, climbing leader; Todd Bibler, Sandy Stewart, Claude Fiddler, Alex Moad, Shari Kearney, Lucy Smith, Doug Dalquist, Eric Reynolds, Annie Whitehouse, Rennie Jackson,...
Baffin Land—astonishing land of vertical walls, unearthly landscapes, permanent sun. And erotic dreams. Our gang included Alexander Odintsov (continuous leader of crazy project “The Russian Way—Walls of the World”), Valery Rozov (flight leader of ...
Growing up in the heart of the Wrangell Mountains in interior Alaska, I have always had a penchant for vertical escape. My friend John Giraldo also shares this interest, and together we spent our teenage years pushing ourselves on little-known pea...
Mt. Wilson, Rivers of Babylon. On November 26 and 27 Paul McSorley and I climbed a new nine-pitch route on Mt. Wilson, in the bowl between Mixed Monster and Ice Nine. Rivers of Babylon is the central of three ice flows. The climbing is sustained, ...