FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATWashington, Whitehorse MountainThis is to report a climbing accident that occurred on Whitehorse Mountain on June 9, 1991.1 was the climb leader. Tony Baird was the injured climber. Other climbers were Andy Doppel and Stev...

Pik Lenina and Pik Kommunizma Attempts. In July, David Bregenzer, Richard Goodell, Tim Lemmuchi, Alan Ropp, Fred Ziel and I went to the Soviet Union, hoping to climb the Razdelny route of Pik Lenina and the Borodin route of Pik Kommunizma. After o...

We climbed two volcanoes, Tajumulco (13,810 ft.) and Picaya (9000 ft.), the latter semi-active, both easy climbs. One rides a mule to within a few hundred feet of the top of each and walks the rest of the way. Tajumulco is the highest mountain in ...

Adirondack Mountains, Various Ice Ascents. Two hard mixed climbs were established at Poke- O-Moonshine in the Adirondack Mountains. Jeff Lowe put up Gorillas in the Mist (M6+). On Jeff’s suggestion, Alex Lowe visited the area with Randy Rackliff. ...

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn April 11, 1993, around 1100, Mike Fischesser (40ish) and Joe Lackey were ascending fixed ropes to reach their gear on Sickle Ledge (top of pitch #4) on the Nose route of El Cap. W...

The Teton Range. Our member, F. M. Fryxell, whose interest in this range is well known, has made a relief model of the range and the neighboring Jackson Hole, which was on exhibition this past summer at the Century of Progress Exposition in Chicago.

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Our expedition was composed of Antonio Trabado, Ramón Portilla, Pedro Miguel Sánchez, Pedro San Ramón, José Manuel Cardero, Juan María Calderón and me. We got to Base Camp on June 17 after a four-day approach. Already fo...

FALL IN RIVER—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Blaeberry River. Mountain climbers frequently have to cross rivers, and occasionally drown in them as a result. We are reminded of this by the following accident which was serious and could have bee...

I made a solo, alpine-style, first ascent of the west-northwest face of Langshisha Ri (6427 meters, 21,086 feet) and the first traverse of the peak. I was accompanied to Base Camp by Dr. Matjaž Vrtovec, Chindi Phurba Sherpa and liaison officer Kes...

Cerro Pyramid, Southwest Face. It was reported that Slovenian Dusan Debelek and Spanish climber Aritza Monastero climbed an 800-meter route on the south west face of Cerro Pyramid (5885 m) on July 13. The route, called Facig Uno, follows the an ic...

FRANCIS L. CAREY1903-1990Frank Carey died on September 13, 1990 in Sharon, Connecticut after a short illness. He was bom in Seneca, South Carolina and graduated from Clemson College in 1925 with a degree in electrical engineering. He retired from ...

Rampart Peak (Peak 9). Two ascents of this peak were reported, the earlier being a snow and ice climb from the N.E., and the second an ascent of the precipitous E. face by Charles Grant, William Farrell and David Ragle. The latter climb led direct...

General Sherman, East Face. On May 31, Billie Butterfield, Dave LeBlanc, Juan Esteban Lira, Natala Goodman and I climbed an outrigger summit of Sherman Peak at the south edge of the Pasayten Wilderness. General Sherman (7,640') lies due east of Sh...

Aconcagua, North Face Variation. On January 22, 1982, from a high camp at 20,500 feet on a rock outcrop north of the Polish Glacier, Marty Hoey, George Dunn, Dick Bass, Frank Wells, Chuck Goldmark and I attempted a direct variation up the glacier....

Mt. Foraker, The Infinite Spur, Ascent. On May 18, Carl Tobin and I flew into the West Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and established our base camp to attempt the third ascent of the Infinite Spur on the south face of Mt. Foraker. We invested May 20...

FALL ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, PARTY SEPARATED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWyoming, TetonsOn October 10 at 10 a.m. Carlos Medrano (25), Fernand Kuhr (23), and Chesley Rowe (21) set out from the Meadows in Garnet Canyon to climb the Grand Teton via the Owen-...

STRANDED, INADEQUATE FOOD and FUELWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeOn June 15, two climbers called on a cell phone to the White River Ranger Station to report that they were pinned down in bad weather on Liberty Cap. Mike Catlett and Don Wi...

K2 Attempt and Ascent of P 6640. Towards the end of April, Americans Mark Wilford and Brad Johnson, Britons Alan Burgess, Alan Hinkes, Paul Moores and I assembled in Kathmandu with all equipment and food. All this baggage was put on a truck and fi...

Tetons, 1980-1982. In the past few years, climbers have been very active in the Tetons. Hanging Canyon Arêtes, Mount St. John. Within the past five years, several routes on the short arêtes leading up toward Mount St. John near the eastern end of ...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral RockOn October 10, Dan Goriesky (43) set out to lead Pee Pee Pillar (a one pitch,5.10a) with his friends Josh Vendig and Randy Dewees. The rating was...