El Pilar, La Crux de Navidad. This route climbs the long diagonal crack on the east face of El Pilar. El Pilar is an isolated tower of solid volcanic rock (rhyolite?). Look for the beautiful dihedral halfway up. Start behind trees on boulders at t...
The Duke of the Abruzzi: An Explorer’s Life. Mirella Tenderini and Michael Shandrick. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1997. 216 pages. $24.95.Climbers of any age or experience level will treasure the biography of explorer and alpinist Luigi Amedeo di S...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club enjoyed an unusually eventful year in 1967. The annual banquet attracted 152 members; Layton Kor was the guest speaker. Twenty-three professional film-lectures were sponsored with an average attendance of 490 persons at...
Manaslu Northeast Face. A light-weight expedition of six Poles and two Mexicans was led by Jerzy Kukuczka. They established Base Camp on September 8 at 4400 meters. From September 17 to October 26 in very bad weather they climbed the difficult and...
Nampa, First Ascent. The Mountaineering Association of Aomori Prefecture expedition was led by Seigo Matsushima. They took the same route which had been attempted by the British in the fall of 1970. On May 4 Susumu Takahashi and Kukuju Kimura left...
Auyan Tepuye, Gran Sabana, Rainbow Jambaia. In March and April, Anne and John Arran, Ivan Calderón, Miles Gibson, Ben Heason, Alex Klenov, and Alfredo Rangel made a free ascent of the Angel Falls wall. Their line (Rainbow Jambaia, 31 pitches, E7 6...
The Colorado Mountain Club. Our club is an organization of 12 groups, located throughout Colorado. The total membership at the end of 1980 is about 7000. During the year we sponsored about 2000 trips.Club-sponsored outings included Yellowstone Nat...
Bhagirathi II, East Face and Northeast Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Wlodzimierz Lipinski, Lech Laski, Dr. Bogdan Meller, Zbigniew Mikolajczyk, Tadeusz Niedzwiedz, Marian Nowak, Marek Orenczuk, Piotr Wójtowicz, Vlademar Zmurko and me as le...
On October 3, shortly after 4:30 p.m., Chris Beoffoli (34) began his descent from Camp Muir. While descending near 7,800 feet on the Muir Snowfield, Beoffoli, according to a report from him, “...fell back and because it was steep, I started to p...
Lemur Wall, new route. To the right of Pectorine, in the vicinity of the huge broken flake, Swiss climbers, Jurg Bernhard and Andreas Bähler, created a new four-pitch route christened, La Voie Plaisir des Guides Suisses. The climb was put up on th...
Kangchenjunga Central Attempt. A 13-man Korean expedition led by Cho Sang-Ku tried to climb to the central summit of Kangchenjunga by the southwest face. On October 12, a high point of 8350 meters was reached.Elizabeth Hawley
La Mano de Fatima, Kaga Tondo, Forsakala Bimbaso. Adventure and unexpected situations guided a group of Czech climbers during their trip to La Mano de Fatima. In spite of very high temperatures, four of them, Pavel Jonak, Vasek Satava, Petr Piecho...
Ananea. We arrived on August 7 from Juliaca at Putina by truck and proceeded the next day on foot to Base Camp above Rinconada at Laguna de los Muertos at 16,850 feet. On the ninth all 13 of us climbed easy Punta Rinconada (17,225 feet). After an ...
Aiguille des Pèlerins, North Face. On April 21 and 22, Briton Andy Parkin and I climbed a new route on the north face of the Aiguille des Pèlerins (3318 meters, 10,887 feet). We climbed directly to the Col des Pèlerins and began about halfway betw...
WEATHER, FATIGUE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FALL OR SLIP ON ROCKWashington, Mixup PeakOn August 18, 1989, Tim Backman (30) and David Newton (36) ascended Mixup Peak in North Cascades National Park. They began the climb in fog from Gun Sight Notch. ...
Annapurna II Attempt. An American group of six led by Steven Brimmer attempted to climb the north face of Annapurna II (7937 meters, 26,041 feet). On October 10, they reached a high point of 7200 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, enroute to Wilson HeadwallOn the morning of May 4th, three climbers left Camp Muir, following a gentle downhill traverse to reach the base of the Wilson Headwall. About ten minutes out from the camp, th...
“Sukaq Nasaq,” “Mount Ise” and Attempts on Thor and Menhir. On July 22 and 23, Martin Krauer, Ansgar Haider, Dieter Stopper, Sabine Walter, Michael Roth and I climbed a peak behind Nanna Peak in the first side valley of the Fork Beard Glacier (5.l...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATWashington, Whitehorse MountainThis is to report a climbing accident that occurred on Whitehorse Mountain on June 9, 1991.1 was the climb leader. Tony Baird was the injured climber. Other climbers were Andy Doppel and Stev...
Pik Lenina and Pik Kommunizma Attempts. In July, David Bregenzer, Richard Goodell, Tim Lemmuchi, Alan Ropp, Fred Ziel and I went to the Soviet Union, hoping to climb the Razdelny route of Pik Lenina and the Borodin route of Pik Kommunizma. After o...