Karcha Parbat. An 11-member team from Calcutta was led by Satyajit Kar. They trekked from Batal and set up a transit camp at Grelu Thach and on August 30 established Base Camp at 4900 meters. Camps I, II and III were at 5180, 5640 and 5945 meters....
The Quotable Climber: Literary, Humorous, Inspirational, and Fearful Moments in Climbing. Edited by Jonathan Waterman. The Lyons Press: New York, 1998. 20 Photos. 253 pages. $20.00.Put down the notebook you’ve been using to record your favorite qu...
Degrees Of FreedomFrom dry tooling to figure fours, M-climbing in the mountains is redefining the vision of what’s a climhahle line.Raphael Slawinski“We cannot solve problems by using the same kind of thinking we used when we created them.”–Albert...
60 Centuries of Skiing, by Charles M. Dudley. 202 pages, with numerous illustrations. Brattleboro, Vermont: Stephen Daye Press, 1935. Price $3.00.This volume, which is charmingly and profusely illustrated, is by no means a text book, but as one wi...
The West Ridge of Mount FairweatherWalter Gove and Loren Adkins, UnaffiliatedIn southeastern Alaska there is a peninsula, at one point only fifteen miles wide, where a dozen peaks tower more than two miles high above the sea. Half are unclimbed. F...
Going Higher, the Story of Man and Altitude. Charles S. Houston, M.D. Boston, Little, Brown and Company, revised edition, 1987. 324 pages, 39 black-and-white illustrations, bibliography. Price $10.95.This is the second revision of the book origina...
Peter Thompson and I visited three regions during the summer: Shimshal, Hispar, and Chapursan. In Shimshal we were accompanied by fellow U.K. mountaineers Ben Cheek and Gregory Nunn. We attempted six peaks, reaching the summits of four. Nearly all...
Mount Rainier’s Willis Wall in WinterJames F. WickwireFIRST climbed by Ed Cooper and Mike Swayne in 1962, Mount Rainier’s 4000-foot Willis Wall yielded to two other successful ascents in 1963 and 1965. The Cooper-Swayne route stays left of the 250...
Tambo, Churros Y AmigosOne crazy adventure on the southeast face of Jirishanca.Didier JourdainAfter a last long night in El Tambo, we took the bus directly the Cordillera Huayhuash. We had with us three weeks of food, which amounted to seven bags ...
Pare Chu region, Thongsal. On August 9, after a flight from Delhi to Leh several days earlier,Irena Artuñedo and I made a six-hour jeep ride to Korzok (4,500m) and began a three-day trek south to advanced base at 4,735m. [Editor’s note: Tsuneo Suz...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alaska, Talkeetna Mountains, Archangel ValleyOn July 1, 1994, Beav Deering and I finally made it up to Archangel Valley on a sunny day for some long awaited climbing. We chose an easier route, Toto (5.7)—on the ...
A Hidden Gem—Ama Dablam’s Northeast FaceMichael KennedySUNSHINE, light, and warmth were all I wanted after Ama Dablam. But memory plays its tricks. The cold, the wind, the frustration of moving too slowly through soft, deep snow, the long, dark ni...
Huascarán. Peru’s highest peak had not been reached outside the months of June, July and August till the Alaska Andean Expedition reached its 22,205-foot south summit on the Ides of March. David P. Johnston, Peter H. Robinson and I left commercial...
Mount Goode. Bill Fryberger and I climbed the couloir to the south of the northeast buttress on July 3, 1977 and exited between the main and southeast summits. The couloir provided a fine, sustained route of about 2000 feet mostly on hard snow wit...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE EXTRICATION PROCEDURE Alaska, Mount McKinley, Ruth GlacierOn June 16, all six members of the French “Wayne’s World” expedition including Thomas Roques, Jean Jacques Peladeix, Jacqueline Peladeix, Michelle Pertuis, Je...
Taste the PaineThirty-four days alone on a big wall in Patagonia.Dave TurnerWiping the rime ice from my goggles, I could barely make out the glacier far below. I stepped higher in my aider, gaining a few inches onto the poor hook placement. “Don’t...
Fifty Years After- Aiguille VerteBradford WashburnDURING the summers of 1926 and 1927 my family stayed at Chamonix and in 1927 my brother and I made a number of excellent climbs, including the first complete traverse of the Arête des Rochassiers, ...
Pasang Lhamu Chuli, south ridge attempt and tragedy. South Tyrolean mountaineers, Alois “Luis” Brugger and Hans Kammerlander returned to 7,351m Pasang Lhamu Chuli, still intent, it seems, to make the “first ascent” of this peak formerly known as J...
1951-20102011Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaN.B.Alberta5201421033British Columbia317119641Yukon Territory372877New Brunswick100Ontario37967Quebec311063Eas...
Ascent of the E. Face of Mt. Index. Visible from the Stevens Pass Highway (Washington State Highway 15) near the town of Index, the E. Face of the N. Tower of Mt. Index is a seemingly vertical 2300-ft. wall. In 1941 Fred Beckey and Tom Campbell su...