Lillooet Ice Field, Coast Range. Long approaches over rough terrain have preserved the Lillooet Ice Field area from exploration. Until 1960, only the perimeter of approximately 800 square miles of mountain and glacier had been explored. While maki...
How did five able and intelligent California Funhogs get involved in the Expedition Game? Shouldn’t we have known? Sure. It happened by accident really; we hadn’t planned it that way. It all began one sunny morning in Ventura, California. I was vi...
A further note. The February 1958 issue of Der Bergsteiger, pp. 198-202, has an excellent account of the Chinese expedition to Minya Konka written by the leader, Shih Chan-Chun. The criticisms so justly made by Terris Moore of the article in Peopl...
A New Route on the Petit DruWest Face DirectRoyal RobbinsIN July, Gary Hemming and I made a new route on the northwest shoulder of the Dru, one of the most striking peaks in the Mont Blanc massif. This route, about 1600 feet long on a 3000-foot fa...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, UNROPED, RAD WEATHER, OFF ROUTE AT NIGHT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn September 12, 1992, James H. (38) and Charles B. (30) met at Moraine Lake to climb the East Ridge of Mount Temple. They set off at 1300, intending ...
On the morning of May 16 at 0545, the Angolo Dell’ Avventura Expedition team of Luciano Colombo (67), Mauro Colombo, and Paolo Civera left the 17,200-foot camp for a summit attempt. While gearing up to leave, they decided they would not rope up ...
The Story Of Mont AiguilleJ. Monroe ThoringtonCURiosiTY and necessity, pilgrimages and military campaigns, were among the early motives in man’s approach to mountains. One peak, however, was attained by royal command, and this is its story. Mont A...
Climbing the Pico de OrizabaGeorges EstoppeyTHE Aztec name of Pico de Orizaba is “Citlaltepetl” meaning “Star Mountain.”The Pico de Orizaba is situated between Mexico City and Vera Cruz, in Latitude 18° 59' and Longitude 97° 16'. It is the highest...
Parchamo, Rolwaling Himal. On October 14 Cosimo Zappelli, Giovanni Martinelli, Carlo Buzzi and Alberto Rauzi climbed Parchamo (20,-577 feet) above the Teshi Lapcha pass.
At the end of June our team of Ines Bozic Skok and Janez Skok (Slovenia), and Hannes Mair and I (Austria), established base camp under the Great Tower (Shingu Charpa). After a few days of acclimatization and rock scouting, we carried a tent and eq...
El Capitan’s West ButtressLayton KorThe spring of 1963 seemed almost unreasonable: storm after storm kept the Valley walls plastered and the climbers grounded. As the bad weather continued, our patience began to fade. Finally Eric Beck and I decid...
Alone on Denali’s South FaceMark HesseI WAS AT AN IMPASSE. Seated on my pack with my elbows on my knees and my chin buried in the palms of my hands, I stared intently at the face. I had ventured out across the glacier only two hundred yards before...
NED GILLETTE 1945-1998“Ned left me and a lot of us with the courage, passion and imagination to push on, to go and live our dreams.”—Susie Patterson GilletteNed Gillette, 53, was killed by two bandits on August 5, 1998, in the Haramosh Valley of n...
First Winter Ascent of North Face, Grand TetonGeorge LoweWHEN one’s climbing is limited by such mundane considerations as a lack of time or money because one happens to be a student, the winter Tetons provide excellent substitutes for some of the ...
DAVID CHEESMOND 1952–1987David Cheesmond was so well described by Michael Kennedy in Climbing of October 1987 that I quote extensively from that issue. “By the time we met on the Kahiltna Glacier below Mount McKinley on a May afternoon in 1981, Da...
Ulamertorssuaq, Left-Hand Tower. High quality big-wall-type climbs can be found in the Tasermiut Fjord region of South Greenland. Many lines have not had ascents. The Ulamertorssuaq Towers form a line of three satellite peaks to the main mass of U...
Quechua Names in the Northern Peruvian Andes and Their MeaningsCésar Morales Arnao,1 Club Andino Peruano Translated by H. Adams CarterIt is not hard to express oneself in everyday Quechua. What is difficult is to give an etymological explanation o...
FALL ON ROCK, NUT/CAM PULLED OUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESTennessee, Sunset Rock, Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military ParkThe park received a report of a serious fall and injury to a male climber (23) beneath Sunset Rock in the park’s Lookout...
Mountaineer: Thirty Years of Climbing on the World’s Great Peaks. Chris Bonington. Diadem Books, London, and Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1989. 192 pages, numerous color illustrations. £17.95 or $29.95.Chris Bonington’s latest book, his tenth...
The Last Blue Mountain, by Ralph Barker. London: Chatto & Windus, 1959- 212 pages, 22 ills. Price 21s. New York: Doubleday, 1960. Price $3.95.This is not just another book of the expedition; it is different in two important respects. First it ...