Trango Nameless Tower, Attempt and Ascent. Paul Pritchard, Noel Craine, Adam Wainwright and Andy Cave traveled by jeep to arrive at Askole on July 5. We were travelling and sharing many expenses with the British Women’s Trango Expedition, so we le...
Indus Kohistan. I visited Swat and Indus Kohistan between August 15 and September 10. Although the Swat valley is relatively well frequented, Indus Kohistan is almost entirely unknown. There, it is possible to find the odd corner where the Western...
Himalchuli, Attempt from the Northeast. Already attempted several times unsuccessfully, the extremely long northeast ridge of Himalchuli butts into a final steep face. Our attempt was post-monsoon, lightweight, Sherpa-less and with a minimal budge...
Pumori Attempt. Five Italians led by Toni Klingendrath hoped to climb Pumori alpine-style. They first tried the southeast face direct and in mid-October placed a camp at 19,200 feet. Then three members left for home. Klingendrath and Roberto Giber...
Lamjung. This three-person Japanese expedition was composed of Kazuki Yoshino, the lone man, and two women, Tomoko Takasu and Keiko Kido. Base Camp was established on the Kamba Khola at 12,650 feet on April 11. Camps I, II, III and IV at 15,100, 1...
Volcán Lautaro, West Face. An official expedition of the Federatión de Andinismo de Chile reached the Continental Icecap by way of Fiordo Exmouth and headed for Volcán Lautaro (3380 meters, 11,089 feet), previously ascended by Argentinians and Bri...
Peak 29. Osaka University made its third attempt to climb Peak 29. (The new altitude of this peak is now given as 24,652 feet, over 1000 feet lower than the previous altitude. — Editor.) The members were Senya Sumiyoshi, leader, Yasuo Tamai, Hideo...
FALL ON SNOW, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount WashingtonOn May 18, 1985, a group of 20 Boy Scouts, including six or seven leaders, were returningfrom the summit of Mt. Washington in the Olympic Range when one of the rope leaders...
South Platte Area. Gene Ellis and I were active here during the summer of 1990, climbing several routes on the Upper Etive Slabs and another on the center of the Dome. On the Etive Slabs, on June 3 we climbed a two-pitch face route, Joy Ride (5.11...
Peaks in the Upper Donjek Glacier Area, St. Elias Mountains. In June and July, 13 members of the Toronto Section of the Alpine Club of Canada enjoyed 16 days of continuously perfect weather amid the mountains that surround the upper Donjek Glacier...
Himalchuli West, Winter Ascent. An expedition of six Koreans was led by Park Dong-Seol. They climbed the southwest ridge. On December 19, Lee Suk-Hwan completed the fourth ascent of the western summit (7540 meters, 24,738 feet) of Himalchuli.Eliza...
P 21,199. This previously unclimbed mountain lies on the Spiti-Kinnaur divide just inside Spiti near the Manirang Pass. It was climbed on October 8 by Nitai Roy, Keshab Kar and Sherpas Pemba Norbu and Nima Dorje from Camp II at 20,000 feet. The le...
Lobuje East and Kwangde Shar, 1990. Micha Miller and I climbed Lobuje East on the Bibler-Freer route on the east ridge (5.9, Al) on mostly solid rock, before we merged with the normal route. We did the climb alpine-style in five days. We also clim...
The Accident on Mt. Jefferson. Labor Day week-end (September 4th-5th, 1933) three Portland, Ore., boys set out to climb Mt. Jefferson by the east face, a steep snow climb. The three, Davis McCamant, Don Burkhart, and John Thomas were first missed ...
Washington—Cascades—Forbidden Peak—On 25 August, Stan Johnson (31), Barry White and three others set out to climb Forbidden Peak by the conventional route. They reached the summit ridge by the way of a steep ice couloir at 1:00 P.M. The other thre...
Valley of the Gods, Southeast Utah. This long-neglected area, first visited by Ron Wiggle and me in 1974, is reached via Highway 163 a few miles north of the town of Mexican Hat. The rock is composed of Chinle sandstone which is similar in density...
STRANDED ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. LouisThree young climbers, Phil Smith, Scott Duncan, and Ron Carmichael, started up the standard southeast face route of Mt. Louis early on 25 June 1978. It requires about 600 meters of ...
AAC, New England Section. The highlight of formal activity was the Section’s Sixth Annual Dinner, a black-tie event attended by 93 members and their guests. Everyone, as seems usual, had a good time, and we increased our Henderson Film Fund to $3,...
On September 23, 2008, Grzegorz Chwola and I flew from Kathmandu to Lhasa intending to reach the Mayer Kangri Massif on the Chang Tang plateau. As far as we could ascertain, these isolated mountains remained unexplored. Although the highest peak (...
OVERDUEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn the afternoon of September 18, rescue coordinator Mark Magnuson was notified of three overdue climbers on the North Face of the Grand Teton. A check of the trailhead found the subjects’ vehi...