SLIDE/FALL ON ICE, INEXPERIENCE, IMPROPER USE OF CRAMPONS, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—UNCLIPPED, PARTY SEPARATEDCalifornia, Eastern Sierras, Lamarck ColOn October 22, David Lown (29), a second year family practice resident, and three friends were desce...
Everest Post-Monsoon Attempt. Our members were Dr. Howard Chuntz, Stanton Smith, Craig Bishop, Dr. Keith Hooker and I as leader. We had been scheduled to fly on the Thai Airbus that crashed and killed all 99 passengers, but we luckily had changed ...
White Knight. The White Knight is a 310-foot sandstone pillar first climbed in November, 1977, by George Hurley and Bill Forrest. The ascent is previously unreported. The tower, (located a mile north of Interstate 70 in central Utah) is approached...
FALLING OFF A CORNICEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AssiniboineAliester (Bugs) McKeith and two companions were climbing the north face of Mt. Assiniboine on 17 June 1978. About 1500 hours, McKeith went on alone toward the summit in blowing snow wit...
Huascarán Norte, New Route on North Face. José L. Moreno, Carlos Val- lés and I made a new route on the north face of Huascarán Norte. It lies left of Casarotto’s 1978 route and is principally on rock with small stretches of ice and mixed climbing...
East Ridge of Inspiration Peak, Southern Picket Range. Making the weekend of October 5 a three-day affair, Fred Beckey, Ed Cooper, and David Collins took the circuitous ridge route into Terror Creek Cirque for a second try at the unclimbed east ri...
Mooseskin Mountain, The Ass of Spades, and various attempts. First, I thank the American Alpine Club for considering awarding a young dirtbag a Mountain Fellowship Grant to go climbing. Marcus Donaldson and I flew out of Talkeetna on April 14 and ...
Changla Attempt. A joint Japanese-Nepalese women’s expedition led by Mrs. Kyoko Endo failed to make the first ascent of Changla (6721 meters, 22,051 feet). There were seven Japanese and three Nepalese members. The women were supported by two high-...
Nilgiri South. Four Japanese led by Kenji Ohama got to 5900 meters on the unclimbed south face of Nilgiri South on October 26 when they decided the unstable rock was too dangerous. They had been at Base Camp since September 12 waiting for favorabl...
Bharte Khunta. We set up Base Camp at Topovan on September 18. Once acclimatized and having set up Camp I on the Kirti Bamak at 4630 meters, we made a cache higher. On September 26, we occupied Camp II at 5640 meters. On the 27th, Toni Bou, Kiko C...
North Ridge of Peak 11,585. The northern aspect of this peak has two facets, a concave north face and a spectacular northwest face, both of which probably have too much rotten rock for good climbing. The separating ridge, however, is of excellent ...
Sekha Brakk, First Ascent. It was reported that a British team consisting of Dave Wilkinson (leader), Ken Findlay, Paul Hudson and Karl Zientek made a probable first ascent of Sekha Brakk (ca. 5450m) on the Hispar watershed ridge of the Solu Glaci...
Little Roman Nose, Southern Selkirks. Mark Guthrie and I did the first ascent of the north face on September 27. We climbed the obvious dihedral that can be seen from the lake below it in four pitches of mixed free and aid climbing; the climbing w...
Medicine for Mountaineering. James A. Wilkerson, M.D., Editor. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1985. 438 pages, black and white drawings, diagrams and tables. Appendices, glossary, index. $8.95.This sixteen-ounce medical and surgical textbook is worth ...
Jugal Himal. Carla Maverna and Irene Affentranger climbed Jugal Himal in October.Mario Fantin, Club Alpino Italiano
Chong Kumdan II (7,004m). The isolated Chong Kumdan Group was explored in 1991 by an Indo- British expedition that climbed 10 peaks, including the first ascent of the highest, Chong Kumdan I (7,071m). This team approached along the Shyok River and...
Shishapangma: The Alpine-Style Ascent of the South-West Face, by Doug Scott and Alex MacIntyre (Mountaineers Books, $19.95), was the winner of the first Boardman Tasker Award in 1984 when it was published as The Shishapangma Expedition. This new e...
Hunters Peak and Troublesome Peak, Chugach Mountains. This fall as my brother Jim and I started winding our way up Bountiful Creek through frustrating alders, our goal was to explore a previously unvisited section of the Chugach Mountains. During ...
FALL ON ROCK New York, ShawangunksOn December 2, a climber (age unknown) fell while setting up a top rope on a route called Reefer Madness. He sustained arm and back injuries which warranted a visit to the hospital. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisTh...
FALL ON ROCK–UNABLE TO SELF-RESCUEColorado, Eldorado State ParkOn August 8, A twenty-eight-year-old male experienced climber was leading the fourth pitch of Rewritten (5.7) on Redgarden Wall when he slipped and fell twelve feet. The victim’s prote...