Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ngojumba Kang II

Ngojumba Kang II. The members of our expedition were Edin Alikalfic, Zdenko Anic, Mario Bago, Nives Boršic, Davor Butkovic, Željko Gobec, Jerko Kirigin, Boris Kovacevic, Branko Ognancevic, Branko Puzak, Mario Rodeš, Branko Šeparovic, Vojislav Vusi...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Handhold Came Off, Climbing Alone, Left No Information on Whereabouts, California, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Peak

FALL ON ROCK–HANDHOLD CAME OFF, CLIMBING ALONE, LEFT NO INFORMATION ON WHEREABOUTSCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne PeakOn July 15, at 4:30 p.m. I (Jeff Moore, 27) was injured when I dislodged a large rock while climbing a short Class 3...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Story of Everest

The Story of Everest, by W. H. Murray. 195 pages, 24 photographs, 14 maps and diagrams. English edition: London, J. M. Dent & Sons, 1953. Price, 15/—. American edition: New York, Dutton, 1954. Price, $3.75.Murray’s book is opportune, not only ...


Feature Article AAJ
Hard Rock in the Fairweathers

How could it possibly have happened? Only moments before there had been the tranquil joy of the summit. Traversing downward on hard snow, my back was turned when the sound of a fall caused me to spin around. Through the midnight dusk, I first saw ...

| Keywords
| Published 1977 | Author James Wickwire


Feature Article AAJ
Huntington's East Face

Huntington's East FaceRoger Mear, Alpine Climbing GroupON MAY 3 Steve Bell and I waved goodbye to Hudson and his Cessna. We erected our mini box tent on the Ruth Glacier below the north face of Mount Huntington. For training we repeated the Japane...


Accident Reports ANAM
Overdue, Various Falls on Rock, Inadequate Equipment, Party Separated, Inexperience, California, Mount Shasta, Mud Creek Canyon

OVERDUE, VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PARTY SEPARATED, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount Shasta, Mud Creek CanyonOn June 24 at 1800, the Siskiyou County SAR was notified of a missing 25- year-old female. She had left her partner at 13,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Apolobamba, Cololo (5,915m); Chaupi Orco Northern Summit (6000m); Katantica Central (5,610m); New Routes and Repeats

Cololo (5,915m); Chaupi Orco northern summit (6,000m); Katantica Central (5,610m); new routes and repeats. During July resident French guide Alain Mesili and visiting Brazilian guide Waldemar Niclevicz spent almost two weeks climbing several route...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, South Face of Pilot Peak, Absoroka Range

South Face of Pilot Peak, Absoroka Range, Montana. Knowing only Pilot Peak’s name, its location and the fact that Phil Smith had climbed it previously, on July 31, 1955, Bill Buckingham, my wife Jean, and I followed Fox Creek as far as the limesto...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Paine Group, Patagonia

Paine Group, Patagonia. An Italian expedition, sponsored by Padre Alberto de Agostini and led by Dr. Guido Monzino, made several first ascents of severe difficulty in the Paine group. Although plagued by the bad weather typical of the region, on D...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Spiti

Spiti. The Cambridge University Expedition to Spiti comprised Mr. and Mrs. P. F. Holmes, Mr. and Mrs. H. A. Lamb, Dr. R. W. Hey, geologist,and me. We left Manali on August 10, 1955, and crossed the Rohtang Pass (13,050 feet) to the Chandra valley ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Nilkanth, West Ridge, New Route

IndiaGarhwalNilkanth, West Ridge, New Route. Between May 28 and June 3, a guided British expeditionled by Martin Moran made the first ascent of the west ridge of Nilkanth. This ice spire rising directly above Badrinath Temple is one of the most be...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Zaalayskiy Range, Kurumdy East, North Rib

Zaalayskiy Range, Kurumdy East, north rib. Our team of 11 Czech and Slovak climbers approached the Eastern Zaalayskiy Range by six-wheel-drive from the settlement of Sary Tash, on the rough Osh-Kashgar road near the Tajik border. When we could dri...


In Memoriam AAJ
Robert Lindley Murray Underhill, 1889-1983

ROBERT LINDLEY MURRAY UNDERHILL1889-1983With Robert Underhill’s death on May 11, 1983, after a short illness, America lost one of its pioneers in the advancement of technical climbing. A quiet and unassuming person, he never advertised his exploit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mt. McKinley Map, Second Ascent of Mt. Brooks, Second and Third Ascents of Scotts Peak Range

Mt. McKinley Map, Second ascent of Mt. Brooks, second and third ascents of Scotts Peak, Alaska Range. During the summer of 1953, the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey and Boston’s Museum of Science completed a long series of field observations which...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection at Rappel Anchor, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION AT RAPPEL ANCHORWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonAt approximately 1500 on August 15, Teton Interagency Dispatch Center (TIDC) received a cellphone call from Matej Bosak. Mr. Bosak reported that his...


In Memoriam AAJ
Benjamin E (Tom) King, 1929-1985

BENJAMIN E. (TOM) KING1929-1985Tom King, a member of the southern California Section, died on September 15, 1985 while doing what he loved best. He was training in the mountains near Los Angeles for an expedition due to leave less than two weeks l...


Feature Article AAJ
The Ascent of Mt. Grenville

The Ascent of Mt. GrenvillePolly PrescottMT. GRENVILLE, located about 15 miles as the crow flies N. E. of the head of Bute Inlet in the Coast Range of British Columbia, rises to a height of 10,200 ft. to dominate the vast Homathko snowfield and th...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

The Mountaineers. During 1960 club membership grew to about 4100 people, with an accompanying sizable increase in mountaineering activities. In Seattle 427 persons registered for the Basic and Intermediate Climbing Courses, with the Everett and Ta...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

TABLE III1951-891959-8919901990USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock27273309313Snow1744262388Ice1305664River12300Unknown19620Ascent or DescentAscent24333418013Descent15522325311Unknown2374531Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock17641637312Slip on snow or ice615...


Feature Article AAJ
McKinley-Hunter Traverse

McKinley-Hunter TraverseJ. Vincent Hoeman, Mountaineering Club of AlaskaLike the great Swedish explorer, Sven Hedin, who once convinced his Tibetan captors that it was against his religion to walk in his own footprints, we four McKinley climbers w...