Ritipampa del Quelccaya. A field party from the Institute of Polar Studies, The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio, made several ascents of the Ritipampa del Quelccaya, an ice plateau in the Cordillera Vilcanota, during the course of glaciologi...
Peak 6,075 m, first ascent. In early September a nine-member all women team from the IMF led by Chandraprabha Aitwal approached an unclimbed 6,075m peak in Kakora Gad from Harsil on the Gangotri Road. After acclimatizing at Kana Tal, base camp was...
Sentinel, Devachan, Papsura Ascents and Tragedy. Base Camp was established by 17 New Zealanders on the west bank of the Tos Glacier at Sara on September 2. Over the next ten days, two camps were placed on the névé beneath the two principal objecti...
Manaslu. Jerónimo López Martínez, Gererdo Blázquez García and the Sherpa Soman reached the summit of Manaslu (26,760 feet) on April 27. They had made the sixth ascent of the mountain and the third from the east. The Spanish expedition, led by Jaim...
Mount McKinley. Although the weather turned back several expeditions to Mount McKinley, three were successful. On June 23 Lee Nelson, Webb Sater, Bud Payne and Steve Horner reached the South Peak via the West Buttress. Two groups climbed Karsten’s...
Rubal Kang. On June 26th K. E. Snelson and J. de V. Graaf of Cambridge University, with Pasang Dawa, who previously had climbed on K2, reached the summit of Rubal Kang, 20,300 feet. This peak lies at the head of one of the four glaciers explored b...
Pumari Chhish Attempt and Ascent of “Skirish Sar”. Our Austrian expedition to the mountains north of the Hispar Glacier was composed of Georg Bachler, Robert Schauer, Hilmar Sturm, Hias Schreder, Sepp Portenkirchner and me as leader. With 32 porte...
Langtang Lirung Winter Attempt. Eight Japanese led by Kouich Ezaki attempted to climb Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 27,324 feet) by its southeast ridge. They were able to get only to 6250 meters on December 11.Elizabeth Hawley
Trango Tower, West Pillar, second ascent. A Swiss team comprising Francesco Pellanda, Giovanni Quirici, and Christophe Steck made the second ascent of the 1987 Dedale-Schaff- ter-Fauquet-Piola route on the west pillar of Trango Tower (6,251m), a d...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club has become increasingly active in sponsoring skiing, backpacking, and mountaineering courses for University of Iowa credit. In January 40 members camped at 11,000 feet in Colorado’s Collegiate Range and completed a 10-d...
Peak 6,100m, attempt. A 16-member Japanese team, with Sherpa support, visited the mountains north of the Annapurna Range during the summer season. Susumu Akihata and Yuichiro Ishi- hara were joint leaders. The expeditions goal was an unnamed and u...
Burgundy Spire, Annie Green Spring Route. David Jay and I climbed this new route on the south ridge and southwest face in mid-October. We scrambled up the obvious gully to a large chockstone and moved right to the ridgecrest. We followed the ridge...
Mount Moran, Central Triple Glacier. The last of the three glaciers on the northwest side of Mount Moran was investigated this past summer on August 24 by James Greig and P. Cleveland. A bivouac was made at the base of the glacier and the next mor...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, The BookOn August 15, 1994, about 1500, Laura Grignon (29) slipped and fell on rock while leading what they believed to be the J Crack III 5.10a on ...
Mt. Haddo. Tewes calls this peak “Sheol,” but there is no doubt as to the summit which he and C. Bohren attained. Crossing Castle Crags, they found the Aberdeen Glacier too steep and therefore took to the face and ridge of Mt. Haddo, of which they...
Deo Tibba. This now frequently climbed, 19,687-foot Kulu peak was climbed on May 18 by the expedition’s leader, C. Pritchard, and R. Hatch and on May 20 by S. Kumar, B. Merchant and the Ladakhi porter Wangyal. On the 20th Pritchard and Hatch also ...
FALLING ROCKBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. QuadraA. Magnus, a member of a party of 13, was crossing a pass, which required a rappel, near Mt. Quadra on 5 August 1979. Magnus was first down and stayed at the foot. A rock fall hit him on the...
The Citadel, North Face. In early August, TM Herbert, Dennis Hennek, and I climbed the 1700-foot north face of the Citadel at the south end of Le Conte Canyon. We chose the longest most direct line leading to the east summit. The first day was spe...
Dhaulagiri Attempts, Ascents and Tragedy. Nine teams attempted Dhaulagiri (8167 meters) this autumn, all via the Northeast Ridge. The climbers came from Georgia, Belarussia, Bulgaria, Kazakhstan, Japan, Spain, Austria, France, Italy, the Netherlan...
Acamani Sur. Our objective had been to reach the summit of Aca- mani (18,590 feet) via its south ridge. Unfortunately the ridge comes to a high point (17,455 feet) detached from the main peak, which could not be seen from the distance with binocul...