Makalu Ascent and Tragedy and Kangchungtse. The Polish Makalu Expedition consisted of Krystyna Palmowska, Amalia Kaploniak, Jolanta Patynowska, Dr. Ryszard Dlugolecki, Tomasz Kopys, Ryszard Kolakowski, Zbigniew Kacuga and Zbigniew Skierski and me ...
FALLING ROCK, RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILUREWashington, Mount RainierMichael Maude (22) and Russell Ward (28) left Camp Muir for the Gibralter ledge route in the early hours of May 26, 1985. They arrived at the Bee Hive around 0300 and began to cross the C...
Cordilleras Blanca. Raura, Chacua, Volcánica and Central. The names of the members of our expedition were Jan Weigel, Adam Zyzak, Tadeusz Marek, Alina Chytros, Zbigniew Bojarski, Jan Junger, Adam Bilczewski, Bronislaw Korzec, Roman Trzeszewski, Jo...
The Mountaineers, Inc., Seattle, Washington, have made great strides: “To prevent mountaineering accidents it is necessary to educate the climbers themselves.” This organization has spearheaded the formation of the Mountain Rescue and Safety Counc...
Squaretop Mountain, 1989. In August, 1989, Mike Colacino and I made the first free ascent of the west face of Squaretop Mountain. We climbed a 1600-foot dihedral on the buttress on the right skyline as seen from Green River Lakes. The Lowe route b...
Point 465 179 on McArthur, East Ridge. On May 18 and 19, Grant Stathem and I climbed a new route on the south buttress of Point 465 179 on the east ridge of McArthur. We had 5000 feet of very pleasant climbing on good granite with little objective...
On October 17, Mike Caldwell (20) and Don Fredrickson (27) started up the West Buttress route. Short days slowed their progress, but after three consecutive hammock bivouacs they had surmounted all of the major technical difficulties of the route ...
Sia Kangri. We have returned from traversing the entire Siachen Glacier and an ascent of Sia Kangri (7422 meters, 24,350 feet). There was a war going on, right in the heart of the mountains of central Asia, a war mostly unknown to the outside worl...
Exploratory Mountaineering in the Revelation Mountains. After two weeks of frustrating waiting in Anchorage in one of the worst Mays in recent years, Paul Gonzalez and Scott Raynor were flown to the Lyman Glacier in the northern Revelation Mountai...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Tunnel Mountain, Gooseberry RouteTwo climbers reached the small belay stance at the end of pitch three on the route “Gooseberry” (5.8). This is a popular local eight...
Manaslu Solo Winter Attempt, 1991. Frenchman Eric Monier attempted to climb the normal route on Manaslu in winter. He reached 7950 meters on January 6, 1991 before having to give up the attempt. He realized he had been hallucinating. He had been t...
P 19,507 and P 20,049, Chamba-Lahoul Divide. Virgin P 19,507 was climbed by seven members of the Indian-Tibetan Border Police team on July 23. The summiters were Thakur Shyam Singh, leader, K. Paras Ram, Kartar Chand, Thandup, Devi Ram, Harbhajan ...
Pumori, Winter Attempt. South Korean Shinji Sasaoka failed to climb the northeast face of Pumori solo. He reached 6700 meters on December 25.Elizabeth Hawley
Shipton Corridor Expedition, 1993-4. Andrzej Makaram and I hoped to reach the Patagonian Icecap from the Soler Glacier. On December 21, 1993, we camped at 250 meters at the tongue of the glacier. After reconnaissance, we decided that the only way ...
Thalay Sagar from the South and Rudugaira. Our expedition made a second, and this time successful, attempt by a new route on Thalay Sagar from the Phatung Glacier to the south. Our previous try was in 1990. Because of deep winter snow, most of the...
FALL ON ROCK AND SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING, CLIMBING ALONEOregon, Mount ThielsenOn June 25, Tristan Massie (40), visiting Oregon from Maryland, was free-solo climbing the spectacular talus of the class four summit of Mo...
The Accident on the Minarets. Walter A. Starr, Jr., left on July 29th, 1933, for a climbing trip in the Sierras alone. When he did not return on schedule, a search was instituted and first his car, then his camp was found obviously untouched for a...
Tuomur or Pik Pobedy Attempt and Tragedy, Tien Shan. This 7439-meter (24,407-foot) peak, the highest in the Tien Shan, lies on the boundary between China and the Soviet Union. It is called Tuomur by the Chinese and Pik Pobedy by the Soviets. Its s...
Washington, Redstone Peak—A party of four mountaineers from Tacoma climbed Redstone Peak northeast of Mt. Rainier on Aug. 3. Redstone was 6.5 miles from where they left the car. Rain set in part way in, but they decided to go on. They attacked the...
FALL/SLIP ON ICE, EXCEEDED ABILITIES—New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Huntington’s Ravine. On March 25, Margaret Snyder Cassidy (24) of Wolfeboro, New Hampshire, her husband Daniel (24), and her two brothers Jim (19) and Mike Snyder (13) of Elkins, ...