RAPPEL FAILURE New York, ShawangunksWhile descending Easy Overhang on July 28, a climber (18) rappelled off the end of his rope and fell 20 feet, suffering cuts and bruises. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisIn many places in this climbing area, a 150-...
Crescent South Faces, Bugaboo Spires. The first climb done on the 1968 Calgary Mountain Club camp was the south face of one of the Crescent Towers, the "Donkey’s Ears” face visible from Boulder Camp, and it was climbed by Brian Greenwood, Ron Thom...
STRANDED–FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Eldorado State ParkOn June 13, a twenty-one-year-old male with moderate climbing experience was seconding the second pitch of the Bulge (5.7) at Redgarden Wall when he fell about three feet...
Trango Nameless Tower, Insumisioa. It was reported that the Spainish team of Fermín Izco, Mikel Zabalza, and Antonio Aquerreta established a new route on the Northeast Face of the Trango Nameless Tower. Insumisoa was developed at roughly the same ...
Khinyang Chhish. The British-Pakistani Karakoram Expedition, under the joint leadership of Major E. James E. Mills and Captain Jawed Akhter, had overcome the greatest obstacles on the route up the southeast side of Kkinyang Chhish (25,762 feet) ab...
Himalchuli, South Face. The Yuki-To-Iwa-No-Kai Expedition made the second ascent of Himalchuli by a new route. We were Kazumi Fuji- kura, Satoru Tamura, Hisao Miyazaki, Sandaichi Omata, Shigenori Tamura, Tadashi Okamoto, Kenji Morohashi, Kazuhiro ...
Effects Of El Niño On Patagonia’s 1997-’98 Climbing Season. Briefly explained, El Niño is a sporadic warm water current that flows clockwise from west to east along the equator and then south along South America’s west coast against the normal pol...
Liberty Bell, Direct East Face. The first ascent of this marvelous granite face was made in July 1965 (NCCS V, F7, A4). Since then two more V's have been done, one being a variation of the original route, and the other a hard V on the opposite sid...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTAlberta, Ghost River, DuveinafeesOn October 8, around 1400, B.W. was leading the second pitch of Duveinfafees (5.7) when his right foot slipped while bridging and lay-backing a comer. He pulled a fixed pin, a cam...
Lhotse, Solo Attempt. In the second week of October Reinhold Messner climbed through the Khumbu Icefall and the Western Cwm to 24,275 feet along the route of the 80-man Italo-Nepalese Everest expedition accompanied by its Sherpas. He went from the...
Witch Doctor Wall. Aerial photography has illuminated the few remaining “secrets” of the North Cascades, but a newly cut logging road south of Darrington led to the ‘discovery’ of a marvelous 75° granite wall, which rises 1100-feet. It can be seen...
Ama Dablam, North Ridge. On October 21 Francis Chaud, Yvan Estienne, Jean-François Magnificat, Raymond Renaud, Marc Salomez, Bruno Solemieux and I reached the summit of Ama Dablam by the north ridge. On the 22nd it was the turn of Bernard Charbonn...
Kulu. In the fall of 1963 I was "guest instructor” at the Western Himalayan Mountaineering Institute at Manali, Kulu in the Punjab. During the first month-long course, in September, I climbed solo a previously unclimbed peak of c. 18,000 feet, whi...
Lamjung Himal, Southeast Ridge. Our women’s expedition was composed of Key Hyoung-Hee, Youn Hyun-Ok, Lee Won-Haeng, So You-Mee, Manager Kim Kyung-Bae and me as leader. Our difficult route on the southeast ridge starting from Chame had been previou...
Trollveggen. In July three Norwegians, Odd Eliassen, Ole Enersen and Jon Teigland, and I ascended the Troll-Wall in Romsdalen. Almost simultaneously a British team led by Tony Howard made an ascent of the same wall by a very different route. At it...
Istor-o-Nal Group. Two German Alpine Club (DAV) expeditions combined in Pakistan for most of their climbing. From Munich were H. Hesslinger, L. Jaumann, H. Wagner, and H. Wiessmeier. From Garmisch-Partenkirchen were K. and U. Schoenwald, N. Hendri...
Crossing of the Northern Patagonian Icecap and Cerro Largo, 1985. In November and December of 1985 American Bonnie Schwahn and Chileans Gino Casassa and I were on the Northern Patagonian Icecap (Hielo Continental Norte). We made the crossing of th...
Mount Winstone, Coast Range. An outstanding peak east of Mount Monmouth was climbed and named on a 1964 expedition of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club. Mount Winstone is still little known, as is the glacial area of the Falls, Tchaikazan, ...
Batura I, Attempt and Tragedy. Atsushi Inenaga led a team in an attempt on Batura I (7785m) via the south face. Team members were Seki Tsuyoshi, Sugiyama Hirota, Takasaki Wataru and Fujita Yasunobu. Batura I was first scaled by the German climbers...
Churen Himal. An Italian Expedition led by Paolo Consiglio and composed of Franco Alletto, Carlo Claus, Ignazio Piussi, Aldo Gross, Sergio Bellini, Claudio Dal Bosco, Piergiorgio Franzina, Giorgio Giacomelli and Vincenzo Monti failed to climb Chur...