Alpina Americana. No. 1. The High Sierra of California. By Joseph N. LeConte. 1907. No. 2. The Canadian Rocky Mountains. By Charles E. Fay. 1911. No. 3. Mountain Exploration in Alaska. By Alfred H. Brooks. 1914. Each issue now fifty cents per copy.
Bear Creek Spire, North Arête. In August 1971 Jeanne Neale and I climbed this narrow arête which is plainly visible from the roadhead at upper Rock Creek. The northeast ridge is an unroped scramble and should not be confused with the steep slabs o...
Hidden Peak South, Southwest Ridge, and Hidden Peak, Southwest Face. Ours was an ultra-lightweight expedition of only two members, Georges Narbaud and me, without logistic support at Base Camp, high- altitude porters or artificial oxygen. We made ...
Cerro Parón, South-Southeast Face. On August 14, Iñaki San Vicente and I made a new route on the nearly vertical south-southeast face of Cerro Parón or Colca (5325 meters, 17,470 feet). I knew this mountain well, having climbed the east buttress i...
Tirich Mir, South Face, 1978. Not reported in last year’s A.A.J. was a Japanese expedition led by Kotsutoshi Ikebe. They placed Base Camp on June 20, 1978 at 12,800 feet and Camp I at 15,250 feet on the South Barum Glacier. On July 26, 1978 Eiji K...
Himalchuli. Our expedition was composed of Hizuru Nakamura, Noriyuki Muraguti, Hiroyuki Suzuki, Kiyoshi Furuno, Itarou Isakawa, Sigeki Imoto and me as leader. We climbed Himal Chuli by the south ridge and the southwest face, a new route. We establ...
P 19,081 (Durgakot). This peak in the Tharkot range was climbed on October 15 by Pranesh Chowdhury, Monuj Bhowmik, Dr. Sunirmal Ghosh and Ram Singh. They reached Base Camp at Sukhram on October 10 and established Camp I on the 12th. As snow condit...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The club continues to encourage climbing at Harvard. Membership this year has grown to 120 under-graduates, with as many graduate and alumni members. We introduce beginners to technical climbing on afternoon trips to s...
Bhagirathi III, Southwest Buttress. Our team consisted of (Mr.) Carol McDermott and me. We established Base Camp at Tapovan on August 24 and by September 9 had acclimatized and carried our gear to the base of the climb. After some bad weather, we ...
Makalu, Indonesian Attempt. Our expedition attempted the normal northwest ridge. The climbers were Irawan Ari Muladi, Bambang Setio Reharjo, Tumbur H.P. Nainggolan, Iskandar, Dedi Agus Indra Setiawan, Rachmat Ruk mantara and I as leader. We left K...
Condoriri and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. Our party consisted of Richard and Lisa Hechtel, Donald and Winifred Morton, Alan Waterman, Les Wilson and me. On July 3 we all climbed Chacaltaya (17,650 feet) and on July 6 we all climbed Khalla Cruz (...
Mount Kenya, Diamond Buttress, 1991. A probable new route on the 500-meter-high rocky south face of Batian, the highest summit of Mount Kenya, was climbed on December 19, 1991 by Bulgarians Ivan Maslarov and NikolaiPetkov. They ascended a 15-pitch...
Peaks in the Fanskiye Gory, Tajikistan. Three Bulgarians, Nikolai Velikov, Kiril Rusev and K. Krumov climbed in August and September in the Fanskiye Gory, where they climbed four summits: Alaudin (4200 meters, 13,780 feet), Zamok (5070 meters, 16,...
Philip Smith Mountains. A striking 6,400-plus foot massif rises prominently three miles to the north of Porcupine Lake out of the upland tundra fields. George Budenbender, Katy Elwyn and I were able to attain the summit from the south face by trav...
Southwestern Colorado was again the center of considerable climbing activity as well as the location of the first work of the San Juan Mountaineers Geological Survey. The Sneffels section was that covered by the survey (yet incomplete). An interes...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Hans Petter Aas, Ole Mentzoni, Morten Ros trup, Harold Braendshøi and I arrived at the Diamir Base Camp on July 10 after four days of dealing with 50 porters, heavy rucksacks and a hot, dry desert. After four more days, ...
HIT BY AVALANCHE—British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Fisher Peak. Chris Sadleir and Bob Bauman (23) and Mavis Bauman were approaching the summit of Fisher Peak on June 6, 1976, when a warm front engulfed the mountain and raised the air temperature ...
To the Very SummitSilvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Alpino ItalianoAS MOUNTAIN CLIMBING develops, more and more ethical questions arise nowadays in the mountaineering world. Having become a mass sport, climbing has shoved aside or changed earlier st...
Chopicaliqui, West Face; Yerupaja Sur, West Face; Yerupaja Grande, Ascent and Tragedy. It was reported that Germans Mario Witte and Falk Liebstein climbed two difficult routes in the Andes. First the team summited Chopicaliqui (6345 m). It took Li...
Everest: 50 Years on Top of the World, The Official History. George Band. New York: Barnes & Noble, 2003. (In association with the Mount Everest Foundation, the Royal Geographical Society, and the Alpine Club, London.) 256 pages. Hardcover. $1...