Mr. Sydney Spencer has kindly transcribed the following American entries from Führerbücher in the A. C. library:1860. Aug. 29. Chamounix. Stephen zum Taugwald was my guide in the ascent of Monte Rosa, in the pass of the Weiss Thor, the tour of Mon...
Pirámide Garcilaso, Southwest Face, New Route. On August 26, Brett Wolf of Gardiner, NY, and Andy Clarke of Glasgow, Scotland, climbed a new route on the southwest face of Pirámide Garcilaso (5885 m). Previously the only route on the southwest fac...
ELWYN ALBERT ARPS1901-1990Elwyn Albert Arps, member of the American Alpine Club since 1940, was bom in Ouray, Colorado on June 4, 1901. In his boyhood, the family moved to Denver, where he grew up. He was an enthusiastic lover of the out-of-doors ...
Mt. Theodore Koven (Peak 8). AN. face and ridge route was made by Charles Grant, Jerry More and Horace Van Valkenburgh. This route, with variations, was used by several later parties. A S.-N. skyline traverse was followed by Robert Parker, Gibson ...
Thunder Peak, East Ridge. Thunder Peak is an 8,800-foot satellite of Mount Logan in the North Cascades. Its 2,000-foot east ridge first caught my eye 15 years ago during a ski ascent of Logan. The ridge features two notches, at 7,500 and 8,000 fee...
Aconcagua. A Mountain Travel group was successful in climbing the Polish Glacier route on Aconcagua (6960 meters, 22,834 feet). The summit was reached on February 9 by John Balut, Bruce Klepinger, leader, John Pratt, Mike Skreiner, Thomas Vaughan,...
Mounts Foraker and Hunter, Ascents, and McKinley, Ascent and Traverse. We started skiing from the Park Highway close to Talkeetna (milepost 131?) on April 18, following skidoo trails (which misled us), the Tokositna River, and the Kanicula and Kah...
FALL ON SNOWWyoming, TetonsJames Forsyth (25) and three companions were returning from a successful climb of the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton on August 23. They were descending the snow between the lower saddle and the Middle Teton Glacier about ...
ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, MISCOMMUNICATION, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierMount Rainier communications received a radio call on May 21 from a team of three climber/researchers in the summit crater of Mount Rainier. The reporting party, Franc...
Lunpo Kangri Attempt. Lunpo Kangri rises to 7095 meters (23,278 feet) some 700 kilometers west of Lhasa. Hiroshi Yashima led an expedition of nine members of the Himalayan Association of Japan to the mountain. On April 22, they placed Base Camp at...
Spider Rock, Canyon de Chelly. A solo ascent of Spider Rock was made by Dave Jones. An unreported free ascent was accomplished in 1981 (5.10) by Tom Kosgriff and Todd Skinner. The crux of their climb was an off-width crack near the summit of the 8...
FALL ON HARD SNOW - UNABLE TO SELF ARREST, PARTY SEPARATED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Hotlum/Bolum RidgeOn September 12, a team of four climbers was descending the Hotlum/Bolum Ridge. Two of the team went ahead to scout the desc...
Mt. Asgard, Scott Route, and Various Beta. In early August, Jeff Bowman and I climbed the 1974 Scott Route on the southeast buttress of Mt. Asgard with two bivouacs (owing to a 4 p.m. start). Because of the relative popularity of this route, we th...
Tweedy Mountain, East Pioneers Mountains. In August, Craig Zaspel and I made the first ascent of Tweedy Mountain’s north ridge, including the prominent tower. There were seven pitches of enjoyable alpine climbing followed by 500 feet of 4th-class ...
The Adirondack Forty-Sixers, by Grace L. Hudowalski, Edward A. Harmes, Katherine T. Flickinger, Peter A. Ward, and Orville C. Gowie, with Preface by Rudolph W. Strobel and Introduction by David H. Beetle. Published by the Adirondack Forty-Sixers. ...
Around the Roof of the World. Edited by Nicholas and Nina Shoumatoff. The University of Michigan Press, Ann Arbor, 1996. 23 chapters, 23 drawings, and 16 colored plates. Notes, index, 227 pages. Hard cover. $29.95.This fine book by American Alpine...
Kangtega in Winter. Kangtega (6779 meters, 22,241 feet) was climbed in the winter for the first time. Ten South Koreans led by Kyong Soo-Jeon climbed it from the south, establishing three camps, the highest at 5800 meters. On December 31 Lee Dae-S...
BELAY ANCHOR FAILU RE-KNOT CAME UNDONE, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount OwenOn the evening of September 3, a cell phone call reported an Exum client with a sprained anlde on the West Ledges of Mount Owen. Tanya Bradby of Seat...
Pumori, East Face. On October 25, Sherpas Sundare, Ang Dorje and Nima and I got to the top of Pumori. We made the climb directly from Base Camp. With five Sherpas, I had fixed 1500 meters of rope for my seven clients, but not one of them could get...
FALL ON ROCKWashington, Magic MountainOn September 16, 1984, Alex Deak (50) fell while descending the east side of Magic Mountain. His ten meter fall resulted in a broken ankle, and a helicopter evacuation was made. A month earlier, the same indiv...