Kusum Kanguru, 1982. In the A. A. J., 1984 on pages 242-3, an ascent of the northeast ridge of Kusum Kanguru was described. Antxon Zamarbide, Eduardo Emanuel and I climbed that ridge in October 1982 before the other group did in 1983. We made the ...
Pumori, German Southwest Ridge Ascent. All four members reached the summit. On October 24, the successful climbers were leader Jürgen Knappe and brothers Peter and Rainer Bolesch. Two days later South Tirolean Josef Anton Holzer, who had been ill ...
Tsaranoro Kely and Pic Dondy, New Routes, and Other Ascents. A Polish expedition visited Madagascar from mid-August until the end of September. Boguslaw Fic, Tomasz Samitowski, Krzysztof Zielinski, Waldemar Niemiec, and Michal Zielinski, with Marc...
FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED, CLIMBING ALONE Colorado, Sangre de Cristo RangeOn July 28, 1986, a Colorado Mountain Club party of 12 approached the east side of Ellingwood Peak (4307 meters) in the Sangre de Cristo Range in southern Colorado. The ...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Tony Lewis, leader, Scott Thorbum, Ron Matous, Dr. Mike Young, Rob Gustke and me. From Gilgit we hired jeeps on May 11 for the bone-jarring 12-hour ride to Tsharing in the Rupal valley. Our appr...
Kulti Glacier Basin. The R.A.F. Mountaineering Expedition to Kulu and Spiti led by Group Captain A. J. M. Smyth attempted in late May to reach the Bara Shigri Glacier, but heavy snows on the Rohtang Pass kept them from their objective. They crosse...
Totem Peak, East Face, Southern Purcells. Art Twomey saw that the good late-year weather would be excellent for his latest pipe dream, an ascent of the east face of unclimbed Totem Peak. Even the higher peaks in the St. Mary’s wilderness, usually ...
Colorado—Boulder: Blain St. Clair, a freshman business student, checked out with the Mountaineer’s Register sometime in early 1952 at the University of Colorado and started up “the back route of the rock” alone. He reached the top and started down...
Ellesmere Island. The Innuitian Orogen geological province constitutes a marvelous sandstone desert of mesas and buttes punctuating the icefields. The corridor from Tanquery Fjord to Hazen and to northwest Greenland has been used since the days of...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Owens GorgeOn June 17 a friend, Courtney Smith (?), fell while climbing in Owens Gorge in eastern California. The climb he was on started from a three meter high ledge, ascending about five meters to ...
Rubal Kang. Led by Dilip Kumar Bhattacharya, twelve Bengalis set up Base Camp at 4875 meters at Ratirang on July 30. Seven members and a Sherpa reached the summit (6188 meters, 20,300 feet) on August 3.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
Our expedition was organized by the Japanese Alpine Club, Student Section. The six members were Yasuhiko Iso, Takeshi Ogawa, Kazuya Murayama, Yasuo Kubota, Yuuzo Samura and myself as leader. We wanted to climb Hunter’s east ridge from the Tokositn...
Manaslu. Our expedition was the best and the most successful I have ever been on, not just because we reached the summit, but because of the warm relationship between the members. There was never a single quarrel among the eight of us. Arthur Haid...
Whitechuck Mountain, North Face. On June 5 Larry Cooper, Don Page, Steve Kieffer and I climbed the north face of Whitechuck Mountain, completing eleven roped pitches on rock, snow and some ice. We needed snow flukes and small knifeblade pitons. NC...
South Buttress of the Watchtower. Viewed from Lonesome Lake, the Watchtower presents an elegant 800-foot buttress. On July 18 Charlie Raymond and I began from just inside the couloir south of the Watch- tower. The first pitch went up a ramp leanin...
The Mitre. On August 13th, 1903, Collier, Tewes and C. Bohren ascended Mitre by “a couloir in the south wall and thence over the greatly exposed ridge.” This would seem to have been the first ascent by tourists, since the 1901 ascent was by profes...
Attempt on Reo Purgyol. Gurdial Singh, Balbir Singh, Deepak Capoor, Major Balwant Sandhu and I proceeded beyond Simla to Kalpa, headquarters of Kinnaur District. We travelled along the Sutlej gorge, a truly fascinating countryside, and turned up t...
Mount Carillon, East Face. From below, the topography of the ridges and faces around the Boy Scout Lakes is somewhat confusing. Seeing fine rock walls in the area of Lone Pine Creek’s north fork, Chuck Haas and I chose the attractive, steep east f...
Lemon Mountains, Various Activity. The Lemon Mountains are one of Greenland’s geological freaks; their spiky peaks sit uncomfortably between the usual Greenland domes on either side. You can find them on the map at the northern end of Kangerdlugss...
Choktoi Glacier Area, Various Ascents. It was reported that a British expedition of Alex Franklin, Will Garrett, Fiona Hatchell, Colin Spark and Guy Willett operated in the Choktoi Glacier area in late June and some of July. They attempted Hanipis...