Notes AAJ
100th Anniversary of the Planinska zveza Slovenije

100th Anniversary of the Planinska zveza Slovenije. The American Alpine Club congratulates the Planinska zveza Slovenije (the Slovene Alpine Club) on the 100th Anniversary of its founding. Slovene mountaineering has a long history. The first ascen...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse—Snow Bridge Collapse, Washington, Mount Rainier

FALL INTO CREVASSE—SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSEWashington, Mount RainierOn August 27, 1989, around 0830, Park Ranger Nina Burnell (26) and her climbing partner Mark Ross (28) were descending the Disappointment Cleaver Route from the summit of Mount Rainie...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna IV Attempts

Annapurna IV Attempts. Two French expeditions were unable to reach the summit of Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet). A group of twelve led by Hervé Thivièrge reached 6600 meters on October 13. Ten climbers under the leadership of Bernard Clém...


Accident Reports ANAM
Party Separated on Summit — Whiteout, Washington, Mount Rainier

PARTY SEPARATED ON SUMMIT – WHITEOUTWashington, Mount RainierOn May 4th, two climbers left Paradise at 9:00 p.m. with the intention of doing a single-push summit climb and skiing back down the mountain via Fuhrers Thumb. In the afternoon, the park...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Nunavut, Mount Thor, Southwest Face and Ridge

Mount Thor, Southwest Face and Ridge. On August 2, Claude Berubé, François-Guy Thivièrge and I climbed the southwest face of Thor to the saddle of the summit ridge and up the summit ridge to the top (5.9, A2, 40 pitches). The rock was very solid w...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing Unroped, Washington, North Cascades, Glacier Peak

FALL ON ICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, North Cascades, Glacier PeakOn June 30, 1991, elated veteran mountaineer Steve Studley (27) stood above the clouds at the 10,568-foot summit of Glacier Peak in the North Cascades Moun...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Ak-Su, Pamir-Alay

Ak-Su, Pamir-Alay. From June 28 to July 21, fifteen Yugoslavs from various parts of the country led by Lazar Popara of Vojvodina climbed in the Ak-Su area of the Turkestan Range, one of the most difficult climbing regions in the USSR. Wild and har...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Himalayas

A Swiss expedition was active in the Himalayas this summer (1939). A small party consisting of André Roch and Ernst Huber with the guides Fritz Steuri and David Zogg made several noteworthy climbs in Garhwal and surveyed the mountains around the K...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, North Carolina, Whitesides, Three Routes in a Day

Whitesides, Three Routes in a Day. On the 800-foot cliffband Whitesides, Jim Corbett and David Young climbed three routes on the formation in a single day. The pair climbed Traditions (5.11c/d), Perversions (5.11R), and the Original Route (5.11a) ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped, Weather—Probably, California, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel Rock

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, WEATHER— PROBABLYCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel RockOn May 29, 1993, the body of Derek Hersey (36) was found on the second class ledges at the start of the Chouinard/Herbert route, at the bottom of ...


Notes AAJ
The Teton National Park Museum of Jenny Lake

The Teton National Park Museum at Jenny Lake has recently obtained a number of original paintings of Thomas Moran, whose pictures helped to make the Yellowstone known to the nation when it was but little more than a name.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Our expedition was made up of Dr. Mariano Arrazola, Eduardo Martínez de Pisón, Jorge Palacios, Angel Sánchez, Pedro Manuel Nicolás and me as leader. We climbed the Diamir Face. We established Base Camp and Camps I, II an...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock–British Columbia, Bugaboo Range, West Buttress of South Howser Tower

FALLING ROCK—British Columbia, Bugaboo Range, West Buttress of South Howser Tower. Thom Nephew (26) was prospecting the ridge approach to the West buttress of South Howser Tower at about 1330 hours on August 16, 1975, for an intended climb. He tou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Lirung

Langtang Lining. An expedition of four Spanish Catalans climbed Lang- tang Lirung (7234, 23,734 feet) by the southwest face. On October 7, the leader Carles González de Agustín, Manuel Miranda and Eduardo Sanchez got to the summit.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Pukuraju, South Face

Pukuraju, South Face. It was reported that the French team of Jean Noel Roux, Jean Emanuel Sicart and Christophe Vigne climbed the Central Couloir on the south face of Pukuraju (5346 m) on August 11, 1995. The 350-meter route, which featured 60- t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Bastion Peak

Bastion Peak (Peak 10). Apparently two different routes were employed in ascents of the N. face—one by a C. M. C. party led by A. H. Jackman, another by a Chicago group led by Joe Stettner.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Northern Andes, Quéhuar and Azufre

Quéhuar and A zufre, Northern Andes. An expedition of the Club Andino Mercedario, San Juan, comprising ten Argentinian mountaineers, several Argentinian and Japanese cameramen and the American scientist Johan Reinhard, returned to Nevado Quéhuar h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Inugsuin Fjord, Nuksuklorolu, The Belluno Spur, and Other Ascents

Nuksuklorolu, The Belluno Spur, and Other Ascents. Two Italian expeditions explored less- known parts of Baffin Island in 1997 and 1998, tallying a number of ascents. In 1997, one woman and five men (Antonella Giacomini, Manrico DelFAgnola, Giulia...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Green River Pyramid, Wind River Range, 1986

Green River Pyramid, Wind River Range, 1986. This pyramid is very apparent from the Green River valley opposite Squaretop. In June 1986, Carl Horton, Shawn Mitchell and I climbed it by its southwest face. (III, 5.10a.)Fred Beckey


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kusum Kanguru, 1982

Kusum Kanguru, 1982. In the A. A. J., 1984 on pages 242-3, an ascent of the northeast ridge of Kusum Kanguru was described. Antxon Zamarbide, Eduardo Emanuel and I climbed that ridge in October 1982 before the other group did in 1983. We made the ...