“Up here, there is more ice than in Europe and Canada combined.” Bold words from Marius Morstad, who invited two alpinists from every UIAA country for an international gathering in Lofoten. “We promise fresh fish daily.” OK, I’m convinced.I land i...
Operation Everest, 1946Charles S. Houston, M.D.DURING the spring and summer of 1946, the U.S. Navy con- ducted one of the most unusual expeditions in mountaineering history. It was a small (but immobile) party of four climbers, with 40 men in supp...
Karun Koh, First Ascent. Our expedition consisted of Oskar Bubbnik, Walter Krampf, Heinz Zimmermann and me as leader. Although we had obtained permission for the K12 group, that area was closed for political reasons. We picked Karun Koh as an alte...
U.S.S.R. A Soviet press dispatch quoted in “Die Alpen” gives a review of mountaineering in 1953 in the U.S.S.R. The sport seems to have become very popular; they claim to have 17,000 mountain climbers, many of whom participated in climbs from the ...
Cheo Himal Attempt and Tragedy. There was an attempt on an unclimbed mountain, a British try on Cheo Himal (6820 meters, 22,375 feet) in the Peri Himal not far from the Manaslu area, a peak which had never been attempted before. This pioneering ef...
The North Face of KangtegaPerseverance on a Himalayan wallValeri Babanov, RussiaKangtega…. What does it mean to me?Some time has passed. I’m trying to bring meaning to my own work on the north face of Kangtega, to appraise it. Victory or defeat? B...
Pik Kommunizma. Our team was composed of Ken Bures, Al Bernsconi, Chuck Betcher, Dan Aguillar, Dave Grier, Al Chambard, Ken Asvitt, LaVerne Woods, Dan Holle, Tim Gage, Gunter Bergner, Burt Falk, Jim Scott, and me as leader. We ascended the mountai...
Verónica, Soray, Salcantay. In May and June 1956 the French guide, Lionel Terray, the Dutch geologists, C. G. Egeler and Tom de Booy, and the Swiss, Raymond Jenny, made three remarkable ascents west of Cusco. From camp at 15,400 feet on the northe...
Kinnaur Kailas, Spiti. This 21,240-foot peak beat back yet another attempt. The Indian Army expedition was led by Major D.K. Khullar. The approach to this peak poses the greatest problem.Soli S. Mehta, Himalayan Club
PAUL KIESOW PETZOLDT 1908-1999Legendary mountaineer, educator and conservationist Paul Kiesow Petzoldt died in Maine on October 6.From the moment of his birth on January 16, 1908, Paul’s character was forged on an anvil of resourceful poverty with...
Piks Shumkar (4,925m, Falcon), Helen (4,710m), Bars (4,800m, Snow Leopard), Pik Kumay (Vulture, 4,830m), first ascents. Time flies. This was the International School of Mountaineering (ISM)’s 14th expedition to the Tien Shan, and it was as great a...
Oregon, Mt. Hood—A party consisting of 30 members (men, women and children) of the Sierra Club climbed Mt. Hood on August 19, 1955 from Timberline Lodge to the summit via the normal route (all class 2 and 3). The party was led by Gene Todd, an exp...
Sierra Club Ascents in the Canadian RockiesNorman ClydeFOR its summer outing of 1928 the Sierra Club of California decided upon a trip to the Canadian Rockies. Two base camps of about ten days each were contemplated: one in the Tonquin Valley, the...
GeographicalDistricts1951-731974Number of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta512066000British Columbia77261095343Yukon Territory9822126Ontario111000Quebec111000West Arctic112000Practice...
STORM clouds were thickening. Herb Staley, Mel Marcus and I pushed rapidly up a steep rock buttress, apparently the only approach to the South Peak of Mount Hozomeen. When we reached the tip of the buttress, we could catch only glimpses of the gau...
FALL INTO CREVASSE WHILE SKI MOUNTAINEERINGAlaska, Mount Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Mount WrangellA party of five skiers attempting a ski-traverse of Mount Wrangell in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park were rescued April 11 by pilot Harley M...
Lukpilla Brakk’s Western EdgePhilip C. Powers, UnaffiliatedWALKING OUT after our climb of Gasherbrum II was quite a social experience. The Baltoro Glacier had lost its snow and become populated. We found friends to feed us, doctors to mend us and ...
Great Trango Tower, Basejump. Our multinational team consisted of Australians Nie Feteris and me, Britons Leo and Mandy Dickinson, New Zealanders Wade Fairley and Geoff Gabites and Russians Vladislav Moroz and Irina Singleman. We arrived in Pakist...
Mountaineering Summary, Denali National Park and Preserve. The 1981 climbing season on Mount McKinley came in like a lamb and went out like a lion. The fair weather predominating in May and most of June allowed many climbers to complete short, saf...
PatagoniaLooking back, toward the futureRolando Garibotti, Club Andino Bariloche, Argentina“El futuro llego hace rato” (The future arrived long ago)—Los Redonditos de RicotaIt is not uncommon for every generation to feel that its importance in the...