Mango Gusor. A Japanese expedition led by Tateshi Sudo is said to have climbed Mango Gusor (6288 meters, 20,630 feet). Details are lacking.
Taulliraju and Other Peaks. Our High-Mountain Military Group expedition was made up of Captain Jean-Pierre Charles, Dr. Emmanuel Cauchy, Adjutants Lionel Mailly and Hervé Farges, Sergeants Yves Tedeschi, Bruno Prom, Jean-Marc Gryska and Dominique ...
Darban Zom Attempt and Accident, 1978. Paddy Feely, Irish, Fred van Gemert, Dutch, Bob Milwood and I, English, in early August of 1978, made very good progress on the north side of Darban Zom (23,665 feet). After only two weeks our first summit at...
Mount Sally Serena and the “Irish Peaks", Taurus Group, Purcells. On July 24 the A. Maki, C. Wagner, and R. C. West families began their backpacking up Irish Creek to camps at Tara and Shannon Lakes. Two days later Bob and David West made a first ...
Yukon, St. Elias Range, Border Peak of Mt. Vancouver. The 10-man Japanese party was flown to the Seward Glacier 28 May to attempt a new route, the SW Ridge, on the Border Peak of Mt. Vancouver, 15,700. A steep snow slope was utilized to reach a co...
PROBABLE CORNICE COLLAPSE, WEATHERYukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount LoganOn May 10,1987, a party of six was flown into the Seward Glacier on the base of the Hummingbird Ridge. Four of the party crossed the glacier and climbed Mount Augusta...
Mount Everest, Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was organized by the Slovak Geographical Society of the Slovak Academy of Sciences with two parallel programs: scientific research and mountaineering. The research concerned the problems of nature ...
Summary of climbing on El Gigante. This year saw at least two repeats of Logical Progression and the establishment of two new long routes (described in the reports that follow this one). Neither ascent of Logical Progression was clean, so the rout...
Against the Wall. Simon Yates. Jonathan Cape: London, 1997. Distributed in the U.S. by Trafalgar Square, North Pomfret, Vermont. Color photographs. 176 pages. $35.00.Okay, let’s get this over with: Simon Yates is the guy who cut the rope on Joe Si...
Mazamas. During the year The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, started 128 climbs on 45 different peaks in their regular climbing schedule. In addition, club outings added many new peaks to the collective mountaineering experience of The Mazamas. The g...
Himalchuli North Tragedy. Germans Dr. Wolfgang Weinzierl and Peter Wauer and South Tirolean Günther Einsendle set out for Camp I on October 15, hoping to pitch Camp II on the southwest ridge at 6500 meters. The only survivor, Siegfried Reiter, doe...
Jethibohurani or Nampa South Attempt. Yasuo Ohsumi led eight climbers from Nagoya University. Their aim was to climb Jethibohurani or Nampa South (22,802 feet). They placed Base Camp at 12,300 feet on its west side. They reached 20,175 feet on Oct...
Duivelsei, first ascent. Intending to ascend an unclimbed mountain in the southern Suriname jungle, Gerke Hoekstra, Ronald Naar, and I traveled to Paramaribo in September. We chartered a small plane that flew us to an isolated airstrip south of th...
Explorers Club of Pittsburgh. ECP enjoyed another active year in 1980. Membership has remained at about 150 (in line with the concept that “small is beautiful”). There was no snow or ice to speak of in western Pennsylvania. Energies normally devot...
Bhagirathi I, West Ridge. Two separate New Zealand expeditions climbed in the Gangotri region. Geoff Gabites, Mark Gabites, Dave Stephenson and I reached the summit of Bhagirathi I (6856 meters, 22,493 feet) alpine-style via the west ridge on Sept...
AVALANCHEWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierOn October 24, climbers Aaron Koester and Matt Little contemplated a summit ascent from their high camp at Cadaver Gap, but due to a late start the pair instead decided to train and explore and t...
Tsaranoro, various climbs and new routes. Dave Kenyon and I arrived at Camp Catta on September 19. Our first three days were spent repeating the excellent existing routes, Alien II (350m 6b), Croix du Sud (300m 6b+), and Pectorine (250m 6b/A0) on ...
Makalu’s West Pillar. Kitty Calhoun Grissom’s article on this first female ascent of Makalu appears earlier in this volume.Makalu. The Japanese Research Center of High Mountains organized a lightweight expedition composed of leader Dr. Makoto Hara...
Hand of Fatima, first complete link-up (in a day). From mid November to mid December, I had the extreme pleasure of being part of a North Face–sponsored expedition during which we explored the surreal sub-Saharan dream-world of Mali as we ventured...
Condoriri and Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. Our expedition, Dr. Rudolf Fürst and his wife Dorothee, my wife Else and I, drove on July 4 to Tuni Lake and continued up the Condoriri valley to camp at Khauan Khota (lake) at 14,600 feet. Next day we...