Arrigetch Peaks, Western Brooks Range. On July 9 Dave Dahl, Jock Richardson, Bill Zaumen and I flew from Betties to Takahula Lake and began the long walk into the Arrigetch Peaks. By early evening of the next day we reached our base camp in Aiyago...
BELAY FAILURE—Washington, The Tooth. Jack Bartleson (46) was injured while climbing on the southwest corner of The Tooth on April 24.The accident occurred as Bartleson was being belayed by Don Brooks while a second rope team consisting of Jim Llew...
FALL ON SNOW, UNROPED, POOR POSITION Colorado, Mount Sneffles(Following is a letter from Adam Beal [early 20’s] to a friend.)Our plan was to set up a base camp on Sunday, and then do a technical ascent of Mount Sneffles on June 24. The climb up Mo...
Cholatse from the WestAndrew SeltersOUR CHOLATSE CLIMB proved to me the value of setting ambitions high enough to make life interesting but modest enough to let life in general remain the truer goal. We had no illusions about an ultimate climb, bu...
Siguniang, north face attempt; Siguniang North, attempt; Camel Peaks. The Siguniang Group was visited in May by UK alpinists, Tom Chamberlain, Dave Evans, Dave Hollinger, and Andy Sharpe. This team, which set up Base Camp in the Chang Ping, had as...
Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. Bob McDougall and I spent our first six days in the spires getting acquainted with the sleet and snow storms characteristic of the Kichatnas, and moving our supplies despite them. After landing on the Tatina G...
Haydon Peak on Skis. Our group, consisting of Pierre Beghin, Christian Bougnaud, Jackiepolo Duliand, Alain Gaimard, Michel Poencet, Maurice Poulain and me, landed on May 6 at Yakatat in very bad weather. On May 8 we made a reconnaissance flight of...
Colorado, North Cheyenne Canyon—On November 28, Roger E. Ross (18), Lawrence L. Beckner (17) and Edward Rhodes (17) went from Colorado Springs to the nearby cliffs of Cheyenne Canyon. The area is used by Ft. Carson soldiers for mountaineering prac...
Sierra Nevada de Mérida. This note is contributed to encourage North Americans visiting on business to pack their climbing boots. Access to this range from Mérida, by the world’s highest cable-car system, is now so rapid as to put a premium upon a...
Mount Adams, Pinnacle Glacier Headwall. On June 26 Gary Faulkes and I packed into Killen Creek Meadow on the west side of Mount Adams to climb the northwest ridge route and to reconnoiter the Pinnacle Glacier Headwall, which lies between the north...
Mt. Saugstad. Mt. Saugstad (about 11,000 ft.*) is in the Coast Range of British Columbia, some 13 miles S.E. of the small fishing and lumbering town of Bella Coola. The Mundays and Henry Hall visited the area in three different years and carried o...
Bollinger, East Face, Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range. Dave Goeddel and I completed an exhilarating new route on the vertical east face of Bollinger. The route follows a prominent diagonal crack system for four leads before zigzagging to th...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, ROPE SEVERED New York, ShawangunksOn April 29, a climber (20) became tired while attempting High Exposure, a 5.6 route. He was also off route. He fell, and his rope severed as a result of impact on a sharp ed...
Palcaraju Sur, New Route. Palcaraju Sur (6100m) is at the end of the Cojup range in the Cordillera Blanca. Pedro Gonzales Bris and I established base camp at 4300 meters on July 3 in the ruins of the site Electroperu once used to modify runoffs in...
Pilgrims of the Vertical: Yosemite Rock Climbers and Nature at Risk. Joseph E Taylor III. Harvard University Press, 2010. 384 pages. Hardcover. $29.95.Taylor's unique book stems from an earlier article that has evolved to 276 pages, with another 7...
First Ascents and New Routes, Southern Wind River Range. We are uncertain how much of our route on Mount Temple’s north face, which we did on August 22, is new, but we believe that the upper half, above the glacier, is a complete deviation from a ...
Report on Bolivian Climbing. The year looked good on paper—twelve good new routes, a couple of old classics like Huayna Potosí, innumerable shorter climbs and so forth—but the memory is deadened by the July coup d’état which brought so much pain t...
Scottish East Greenland Expedition to Southern Staunings Alps. The following members of the mountaineering clubs of St. Andrews University, Dr. Philip Gribbon (Leader), Ian Wasson, John Wedderburn, Ian Wilkinson and of the Royal College of Science...
British Mountaineering Council Meet. Mark Hutchinson, our British Mountaineering Council host, has a most enjoyable and charismatic personality and did an unsurpassable job of organizing the meet and in particular of arranging an itinerary which a...
Peak 12,360' South Ridge. In mid-April Jon Miller and I left Fairbanks for a climb of the obvious line on the south face of Peak 12,360'. Situated between Mt. Hayes and Mt. Shand, this unnamed peak is the third highest peak in the Hayes Range. We ...