Vesper Peak, North Face. Although this face has some of the finest granite in Washington, it will never light anyone’s fire. Broken by a large ledge system two-thirds of the way up, this 1200-foot face lacks any “classic” lines. Between the Vesper...
Kangtega Attempt. This British expedition was made up of Rab Carrington, Alan Rouse and Brian Hall. They attempted to climb Kangtega (22,340 feet) by the northwest ridge, up a short icefall to a rock buttress leading to a long summit ridge. On the...
Kulu. On October 7 the Ladakhi Wangyal and I climbed the unnamed pass of 16,391 feet between Kulu and the Bara Bangahal in the Dhaula Dhar range. The pass is marked on the Survey of India Sheet 52H/SW, somewhat optimistically, as leading from the ...
Kang Guru. Our expedition was composed of Dr. Borislav Aleraj, Stipe Božic, Marijan Cepelak, Mladen Briški, Nenad Pivac, Branimir Predovic, Borislav Starcevic, Branko Šeparovic, Boris Vrbek and me as leader. The main party having left Dumre on Sep...
Alpine Paintings. The Alpine Club (London) recently sold at Christie’s a group of paintings, some of which are of historic interest. Three of these have been secured for the American Alpine Club. All are water- colors.1. Aosta and the Rutor, by Ge...
Tirich Mir East Attempt. A German expedition from Trostberg led by Stefan Rausch had as its objective climbing Tirich Mir by the southeast ridge from the South Barum Glacier. They arrived in Chitral on July 23. They placed three camps on the sites...
Vallecito-Rincón Traverse and Other Mendoza Climbs. A Randis and M. Sánchez, of the Club Mendoza de Regatas, traversed the almost two-mile ridge connecting Vallecitos and Rincón peaks, both over 17,000 feet. It took them 14 hours to traverse all o...
In early August Jim Koewler, Steve Kragh, and Dave Reimann from the Wilderness Encounter Program at Southwest Minnesota State College (Marshall) and I explored and climbed in the jagged “Fry Pinnacles” or Leaning Towers, east of Kaslo, B.C. The 13...
Koz Sar, First Ascent. Ichiro Yamagata led an eight-member team from the Sendai Ichiko Alpine Club of Japan that made the first ascent of Koz Sar Peak (6677m) via a small ridge in the south face. From 5000 to 5900 meters, the climb offered a crumb...
Tukuche Peak. On May 10 the leader of the light Swiss expedition, Georges Hartmann, Aloïs Strickler and Sherpa Sonam Girmi made the first authorized ascent of Tukuche Peak (22,690 feet), while Alfred Hitz and Ruedi Homberger were climbing the 22,3...
Makalu Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Germans Michael Dacher, Ralf Dujmovits, Richard Koller, my wife Gaby and me as leader and Swiss Norbert Joos, Luis Deuber, Peter Weber and Fredy Graf. We were disappointed with our liaison officer, who d...
AVALANCHE WEATHER, POOR POSITIONWashington, Whitehorse MountainOn May 12, 1985, Denae Rideout (28), her cousin Jeff Tucker (27) and another cousin, Jeff Kollgaard set out to climb Whitehorse at 0800 as part of an annual Mother’s Day family gatheri...
Cordilleras Blanca, Huaytapallana and Yauyos. Peter Barry, Archie Simpson and E. Pahl climbed Lasontay Sur (18,701 feet) in the Huaytapallana. Simpson and Barry then went to the Cordillera Blanca where they made the second ascent of Santa Cruz Chi...
The Kachinas, Phoenix, Arizona, have developed an indoctrination course for prospective members to pass before they can join the organization. On all climbs they adhere strictly to a four-point climber’s safety code. The Club has also developed a ...
Palmer Creek Buttress, 1989. In July 1989, Fred Beckey, Brian Litz and I climbed Palmer Creek Buttress, a west-facing wall of the Palmer Creek branch of New Fork Creek. We scrambled third-class up 1000 feet of scree and loose blocks. The climb the...
St. Elias, Kennedy, Queen Mary, Peak East of McArthur and Steele Attempts. Alaskans John Bauman, Dave McGivern and Leo Americus attempted a winter ascent of Mount St. Elias via the Abruzzi route from the Newton Glacier from March 4 to 23. Due to e...
California, Yosemite National Park, The Iota. On 7 May Jeff Kevser (20) and Thomas Stutzman (20) were climbing the Iota. Kevser led the first pitch, 5.5 plus; Stutzman led the second pitch and was almost at the end, approximately 135 feet up. He s...
Mandani and Sumeru. Base Camp for the Mountain Lovers Association of Asansol was placed at 14,850 feet at the junction of the Gangotri and Kirti glaciers. On October 1 Pranesh Chowdhury, Anil Deb, Tusar Sakar and Sherpas Tshering and Kami climbed ...
Saser Kangri III. I was the leader of the 25-man Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition. We left Leh on April 16 and approached up the Shyok valley along the old “Silk Route” toward Sinkiang. The Shyok had to be forded 17 times before we got on Apr...
Mount Jeffers, Kichatna Spires. On July 1, Jay Smith and Steve Gerberding are said to have climbed a new route on the west face of Jeffers. Details are missing as we go to press.