Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Cirque of the Towers Traverse

Cirque of the Towers Traverse. When our party of six arrived in the Cirque of the Towers, Dick McCracken and Charlie Raymond and I were immediately struck by two fine challenges: the unclimbed south face of the Watchtower and a traverse of the Cir...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden Wall

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Red Garden WallOn September 10, 1994, a climber (30) was leading on “Blackwalk” (5. l0b/c) on Red Garden Wall. He was 30 feet off the ground and five feet above...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Mt. Huber

Mt. Huber. G. Collier was of the party which made the first ascent in 1903 (E. Tewes, C. Bohren, C. Kaufmann). Their route, little likely to be repeated, is not given in the Guidebook, but is nevertheless remarkable. Leaving the chalet at Lake Lou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India Punjab, Deo Tibba and Shilla

Deo Tibba and Shilla. An All-India University Students Expedition led by R. Jaikumar climbed Deo Tibba in July. The main objective of this party was, however, Shilla, once reported as over 23,000 feet when it was first climbed a hundred years ago ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Place No Protection British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Assiniboine

FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AssiniboineOn 1 August 1979, Edward Donn (39) and Vic Beresford (24) were descending Mt. Assiniboine at 930 hours after reaching the summit. Beresford easily crossed a six-fo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Premiere Buttress

Premiere Buttress. The first climb of this sloping, rounded buttress, just above the last road switchback at Whitney Portal, was made on November 17 by Brian Gochoel and me in 5½ leads. The rock is excellent granite, with numerous chickenheads tha...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Lirung, Winter Ascent and Attempt

Langtang Lirung, Winter Ascent and Attempt. Two Japanese teams attempted the normal route, the southeast ridge of Langtang Lirung (7234 meters). The first party consisted of eight Japanese and four Sherpas under the leadership of Koichi (also spel...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia—Cordillera Apolobamba, Condorini, Acamani and Other Peaks, Southern Apolobamba

Condorini, Acamani and Other Peaks, Southern Apolobamba*. Our expedition was composed of Régis Cazes, Philippe Couture, Xavier Mes- saut, Serge Renner and me. While acclimatizing, we left La Paz on July 15, headed for Huayna Potosí and climbed to ...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineering Club of Alaska

The Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The club now has a membership of over 100 persons and has maintained an active climbing schedule throughout the year. Although the club has not sponsored any major expeditions this year, individual members have d...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Northeast, Lindbergh Fjelde, Various Activity

Lindbergh Fjelde, Various Activity. On July 25, Paul Walker of Tangent Expeditions International flew a team comprising Ralph Atkinson, James Berry, Luke Francis, David Howe, Phil and Anita Jones, Malcolm Minchin and Owain Turner into the Lindberg...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, West Face, and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real

Ancohuma, West Face, and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. As training for a Himalayan expedition to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Club Andino Bariloche, we organized this expedition to Bolivia. The climbers were Pablo Hülskamp, Alejandro Ro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Attempt on Rupal Face

Nanga Parbat, Attempt on Rupal Face. The eleventh German expedition to the mountain, led again by Dr. Karl M. Herrligkoffer, made an attempt to climb the 15,000-foot-high Rupal or South Face of Nanga Parbat (26.660 feet). If it had been successful...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna, Glacier Dome and Tent Peak

Gangapurna, Glacier Dome and Tent Peak. The members of our expedition were Günther Hauser, leader, Ludwig Greissl, Hermann Wünsche, Hermann Köllensperger, Otto Seibold, Erich Reismüller, K. H. Ehlers and myself. We set up Base Camp at 12,000 feet,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Peak 29 Nepal

Peak 29 (25,705 feet), sometimes called Manaslu II or Dakura Himal, is located between Manaslu (26,760 feet) and Himalchuli (25,895 feet). It was Nepal’s highest unclimbed mountain. Yet it was nearly an unknown peak when we started our exploration...

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| Published 1970 | Author Senya Sumiyoshi


Accident Reports ANAM
Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (2) The Flatirons (near Boulder)

Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (2) The Flatirons (near Boulder). On 10 October 1948 a group of students from the University of Colorado climbed to the top of the first Flatiron by a short, easy route up the back. Two of them then decided to descend ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Range, Nanga Parbat, Various Ascents

Nanga Parbat, Various Ascents. It was reported that a number of teams made successful ascents of Nanga Parbat in 1997. A China-Pakistan expedition that fixed rope up to 7400 meters on the Diamir Face put eight climbers on top June 15. Two Japanese...


Book Reviews AAJ
Publications of the American Alpine Club

Publications of the American Alpine Club.The following publications may be obtained upon application to the Assistant Secretary at the Club Rooms. Prices include postage.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Peak 12,416, North Face

Peak 12,416, North Face. In September 1971 Jeanne Neale and I climbed five pitches of free climbing up a diagonal crack system. Moderate but continuous fifth class brought us to the virgin summit of the highest peak on Glacier Divide, a 15-mile-lo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure of Nut and Piton, Washington, Mount Garfield

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT AND PITONWashington, Mount GarfieldOn May 14, Frank Wells (33) and Craig Parsley (25) started an ascent of the South Face of the West Peak of Mount Garfield at 0700. At 1100, around the 1200-meter level, Wells fell, pu...


In Memoriam AAJ
Gustave Ernest Landt, 1894-1977

GUSTAVE ERNEST LANDT 1894-1977Gustave Landt was born in Highwood, Illinois, November 29, 1894, and died suddently of a heart attack on April 5, 1977, at his home inNorristown, Pa., survived by his wife, a daughter and three grandchildren.Gus reciv...