P6620, “Lava Mountain,” Talkeetna Mountains. This nondescript peak, located northeast of Granite Peak in the Matanuska Valley, was one of those ever scarcer virgin mountains close to the highway on which a weekend assault can be planned. Vin Hoema...
ROBERT M. SCHWARZENBACH1917-1988Robert M. Schwarzenbach died on August 27, 1988 in Stamford, Connecticut. He was born in Jericho, New York and lived for some years as a youth near Zürich, Switzerland. He received a degree from the Federal Institut...
Bustle Tower, Southeast Face, Mount Sir Harrison Smith, North Buttress, Tathagata Tower, East Face, Crescent Peak, South Ridge, Logan Mountains1, 1977. During our stay in the Logan Mountains, we made the following first ascents: Bustle Tower, 2000...
Urus Este, Cordillera Blanca. The Germans Dettlef Leppert and Johannes Schmidt climbed Urus Este (17,782 feet) on May 14. Further details of what they did are not yet available.César Morales Arnao, Club Andino Peruano
Point 12,612', East Face, The Illness. In August, 1988, Franziska Garrett, James Garrett and Fred Beckey traveled to the seldom-visited St. Lawrence Basin of the Wind River Range to attempt the east face of Point 12,612' on the Wolverine. James an...
Peak 1640, Chugach Range. In the course of a traverse of the Western Chugach icecap from Eklutna to Girdwood, on August 20 my brother William and I made the first ascent of Peak 7640, for which we have proposed the name of “Bellicose Peak”. This i...
Ottarosko, Nuit Range, Coast Mountains. Ottarosko, a 10,000-foot massif near the northern end of the Nuit Range, east of Waddington, is featured by a large, cascading northern glacier and a long, serrated southern ridge. Its most striking aspect i...
Colorado, Boulder, Second Flatiron—On November 5, John Barry (27) and Cleveland Bell were climbing the overhang at the bottom of the summit block of the second Flatiron, southwest of Boulder. This pitch is strenuous but it is normally climbed with...
FALL ON ROCK, WASPS, NO HARD HAT New York, ShawangunksOn May 15, a climber (22) was leading Disneyland, a 5.5 route, when he was stung by a wasp. He fell and hit his head, which resulted in a loss of consciousness for 30- 40 seconds. (Source: Brad...
Gog, Northern Selkirks. On July 26, Frank Zahar and I made a new route on Gog, starting 30 feet left of the Gog-Magog col on the Friendship col side of the formation. We worked up and right to the base of a 25-foot vertical jam chimney. We continu...
FALL ON ROCKColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkOn June 7, a thirty-nine-year-old male experienced climber had started to follow the fourth pitch of Ruper (5.8) on Redgarden Wall when he reached for a hand hold, missed and fell. The belayer cinche...
Trango Nameless Tower, The Book of Shadows. Eric Brand, Jared Ogden, Willie Benegas, and Kevin Starr completed a new route, The Book of Shadows (VII 5.10+ A4 WIV), on the Trango Nameless Tower in July and August. An account of their climb appears ...
Tirich Mir. Two expeditions attempted Tirich Mir (25,267 feet) last summer. First, the German Fritz Stammberger, climbing alone, established a series of camps and had reached possibly 20,000 feet when he was caught in an avalanche from which he em...
A small group from Valparaiso comprising Messrs. P. P. Kuhn and Lalive d’Epinay and Mrs. Kuhn von Boemble, climbed on March 3rd, 1930, the volcano Tinguiririca in the central Andes of Chile, making what they consider to be a first ascent. (Andina,...
Pabil (Ganesh IV). This joint Japanese-Nepalese Police expedition was co-led by Shigehiko Toyoda, Japan and Yogendra Thapa, Nepal. They made the first ascent of Pabil (23,300 feet), climbing the south face to the southeast ridge. The summit was re...
Cerro Marconi Norte. It was reported that Maurizio Giordani climbed a new route (5.5, 500m), solo, on on the north flank of Cerro Marconi Norte, on December 9, 1996. (High Mountain Sports 176)
Liberty Bell, West Face via Serpentine Crack. About 300 feet south of the original west-face route on Liberty Bell there exists a twisting crack system that was a tempting climbing sight. With the increased popularity of rock-climbing due to the n...
STRANDED, POOR CONDITIONSAlberta, Banff National Park, The FingerOn September 28, a party of two was reported overdue from a climb on the previous day. A search by Warden Service rescue crews was initiated and the party was located on the rappels ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLEANING ROUTENew York, ShawangunksIn October 1981, a young man (17) fell ten feet to a ledge while trying to remove a stuck nut on Rusty Trifle (5.3). (Source: Brad Snyder)
Lhotse Tragedy. Nicolas Jaeger, the French climber who had such a remarkable record, particularly of solo ascents, disappeared on Lhotse on April 27. His original plan had been to make the first ascent of the 10,000-foot-high direct south face of ...