Kedarnath Dome. This summit (22,410 feet) was again climbed on September 15 by R.S. Varma, Swaran Singh, B.P. Lama, Hirday Ram, Narain Singh, Nima Thondup and Nima Puther, of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. This team originally was attempting Keda...
ELIZABETH WOOLSEY1908-1997An enthusiastic member of the American Alpine Club for 62 years, Elizabeth D. “Betty” Woolsey, 88, died at her home on Trail Creek ranch above Wilson, Wyoming, on January 11. Her last glance was of the meadow, horses feed...
Various ski descents. In the fall Bean Bowers, Ben Ditto, and I completed a ski mountaineering circumnavigation of the Fitz Roy massif. Christened the “Southern Patagonia Ice Cap Expedition”— SPICE Tour for short—we traveled 65 miles, completed se...
When we attended the 40th Celebration of Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) in May 1998, in Peking, we inquired about the possibility of receiving a mountaineering permit for a peak on the China- Bhutan border. We received a good reply. We s...
Blood From The StoneIf it weren’t so big, it would almost have been fun. Five-thousand feet of vertical winter on the east face of Mt. Dickey, Alaska.Sean EastonOur plane spiraled in descent beside the east face of Mt. Dickey. My face was plastere...
Charakusa Spires, 1987 and 1988. The five glacier systems leading up from the head of the Hushe Valley offer remarkably easy access to spectacularly steep walls of rock and ice characteristic of the Karakoram. From July to September 1987, Ruben Mo...
Battle Drums and Geysers: The Life and Journals of Lt. Gustavus Cheyney Doane, Soldier and Explorer of the Yellowstone and Snake River Regions, by Orrin H. and Lorraine Bonney, with foreword by George B. Hartzog, Jr. Chicago: Sage Books, The Swall...
Kuilu, various ascents; Sun Kul Canyon, various ascents. This was the International School of Mountaineering’s second trip to the Kuilu range, the first being in 2000, when we explored the Karator Glacier and its surrounding peaks. Our 2009 trip f...
High Altitude and Man. John B. West and Sukhamay Lahiri, editors. American Physiological Society, Bethesda, 1984. 199 pages, tables, diagrams. $39.00.Thanks to the American Medical Research Expedition to Everest in 1981, physiologists have turned ...
Khunyang Chhish (7,852m), west ridge attempt and Pt. 6,100m. Locals say Khunyang Chhish means “the corner peak.” In 1892 Martin Conway wrote about Khunyang Chhish and in 1908 Workman published a photo of it in the book The Call of the Snowy Hispar...
Our seven-man team was inspired to visit the Djangart region after reading a report in AAJ 2011 by the Anglo-American expedition that climbed in the western part during 2010. We were six Danes (Sune Buur, Carsten Cooper-Jensen, Jakob Fisker, Ander...
Gasherbrum II. Again a number of expeditions have climbed Gasherbrum II by the normal route. All the members of a Japanese expedition reached the summit on July 26. They were Haruyuki Endo, leader, his wife Yuka, Osame Tanabe and Takao Suzuki. Thi...
Devils Tower National Monument: A Climber’s Guide. Steve Gardiner and Dick Guilmette. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1986. 136 pages, black and white photographs. $6.95 (paper).Devils Tower is a fantastic volcanic plug that erupts hundreds of feet int...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The DMC was very active during 1956, particularly in the West. The focal point of this activity was the Teton area, where club members climbed for six weeks in the summer. Among the many climbs was the first ascent o...
Across the Col d’Hérens in 1892Charles Francis JudsonLOOKING back to memorable days spent in the Swiss Alps I can recall few more delightful in retrospect than those spent in a trip to Arolla and Zermatt. It was the summer of 1892 when I left Veve...
Shivling. An eight-man commercial French team led by Gilles Buisson and Jean-Pierre Frachon and organized by Atalante completed the first French ascent of Shivling. On September 3, Frachon, Christian Carre, Peter Bruijs and Alain Crocombette reach...
Shuwert Sar (6,152m), first ascent. I had only three weeks for my summer vacation in 2007, so I chose to try mountaineering in the Shimshal region, where it is relatively easy to approach the mountains. Guided by the panoramic photos taken by the ...
VITTORIO SELLA1859-1943The American Alpine Club has lost an Honorary Member in the death of Vittorio Sella, in his eighty-fifth year, at his home near Biella, Italy. His connection with the Club was chiefly due to Professor Fay’s acquaintance with...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER, NO SPOTTER AND NO HARD HATWashington, Icicle River CanyonOn April 17, 1993, the Everett Mountaineers were conducting a part of their Alpine Scramble course when an instructor (male—67) fell while bouldering. He had done seve...
Kangchenjunga Attempt. An expedition of 12 South Koreans led by Yoo Jae-Il attempted the southwest face of Kangchenjunga but only got to 6800 meters on September 18.Elizabeth Hawley