Northeast Face of Symmetry Spire. This route, climbed by John Dietschy and Dave Dingman July 24, 1957, differs from that climbed in 1953 by Roald Fryxell in that it is just north of the northeast chimney; Fryxell’s route was further around on the ...

Gasherbrum I and II. Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) and Gasherbrum II have been climbed by teams of Quota 8000, an organization which has a five-year project to climb all the fourteen 8000-meter peaks. Our first expedition had as climbers Gianni Calca...

Lupghar West II, Ascent. It was reported that Nicolas Sieger led a four-member team on an attempt of Lupghar West II (7010m) in August. When time ran out, three of the team members left for home, but Sieger remained behind to continue efforts on t...

Mount Leatherman and Other Winter Ascents, Big Lost River Range. Rick Albano and I made the following climbs, which we believe were the first winter ascents: Mount Leatherman, up the west ridge and down east ridge, on March 19, Class V; P 11,899 (...

To the Untouched Mountain: The New Zealand Conquest of Molamenqing, Tibet. Warwick Anderson. Reed, Wellington and Alpenbooks, Seattle, 1983. 242 pages, 12 color plates, maps. $18.00.At 7703 meters, Molamenqing is the world’s forty-fifth highest mo...

FALLS ON ROCK New York, ShawangunksOf the 17 climbing accidents reported from this area in 1988, 14 were leader falls averaging about six meters. Injuries included nine franctures and four dislocations. In five cases, protection pulled out.Althoug...

FALL ON ICE, GEAR RACKED RANDOMLY, FATIGUE, FAILURE TO LISTEN TO INSTINCTS, POSSIBLE SENILITYSouth Dakota, Spearfish CanyonFebruary 6. Aging ice climber (67) begins approach too tired to get to base of climb (100 feet from road), but with the aid ...

Medicina de Montaña. Eusko Jaurlaritza, Editor. Itxaropen, S.A., Zarautz. 1984. 414 pages. Not priced.This collection of papers presented at a mountain medicine meeting held in San Sebastián will unfortunately have limited readership in the USA si...

Disteghil Sar. An Austrian expedition under the leadership of Wolfgang Stefan climbed Disteghil Sar (25,868 feet) in the Hispar Muztagh of the Karakoram. Having left Nagar on May 12, they had ascended the Hispar and Khiang Glaciers and were ready ...

FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT, ETC.Utah, Cottonwood CanyonsFour reports of climbing accidents were filed for this area, one resulting in a fatality when a solo climber fell while descending Mount Superior’s north side. The othe...

Überlebt—Alle l4 Achttausender. Reinhold Messner. BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, Munich, 1987. 247 pages. Many photographs, mostly in color, route paintings.On October 16, 1986 with the ascent of Lhotse, Reinhold Messner became the first to climb all th...

Amadou Alpiniste, by Alexis Peiry. Paris: Désciée de Brouwer. 36 pages; 16 photographs by Suzi Pilet. Price $1.72.This charming book for children tells the story of little Amadou, whose greatest friend, a seasoned rock climber, is killed by lightn...

Deborah and Hess Attempts, Ascent of P 9730. On May 16 Gwain Oka, Ray Brooks, Chris Puchner and I were flown to the Gillam Glacier at 5500 feet. Under clear skies we made two carries to 7500 feet on the north side of P 9730. This north face did no...

Mt. Jefferson (2)—On September 6, 1954, George Watts (20), Ron Coon (18) and Ed Keech (18) with little previous experience, climbed Mt. Jefferson up to the pinnacle by a rather round about route. Keech had gone ahead and scaled the pinnacle and re...

Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Chasm View Wall, Paint it Black, Winter Ascent. On January 24, Mike Pennings and I completed the first winter and second ascent overall of Paint It Black (VI 5.11 A3+). The route was first climbed by Steve Quinl...

Kwangde. A Nepalese expedition to the Everest region was led by Kumar Khadga Bikram Shah, President of the Nepalese Mountaineering Association. They were accompanied by a Japanese television team. They had originally hoped to climb Karyolung but c...

Overview. First ascents, high peaks, exploration, and challenging climbs by Indian mountaineers: all were part of 2008 in the Indian Himalaya, a year that will be remembered for energetic climbs and generally settled weather.Sixty-five foreign exp...

PULMONARY EDEMA AT LOW ELEVATION—California, Sawtooth Range. Friday morning I got a call from some Oregon State University friends inviting me to join a group of four that would be climbing in the California Sawtooth Range, west of Bridgeport, Cal...

Across the Frozen Himalaya, by Harish Kohli (Indus Publishing, New Delhi) describes a 2000-kilometer ski traverse from the Karakoram Pass to the Lipu Lekh Pass through the coldest winter in two decades. It is a remarkable adventure by Kohli, who, ...

Quarry Peak, East Face. In August Vern Clevenger and I established, the first route on this massive face in Matterhorn Canyon. Our line lies on the left-most (smoothest) section of the face and follows a right-leaning, left-facing chimney and ope...