FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, The BookOn August 15, 1994, about 1500, Laura Grignon (29) slipped and fell on rock while leading what they believed to be the J Crack III 5.10a on ...
Mt. Haddo. Tewes calls this peak “Sheol,” but there is no doubt as to the summit which he and C. Bohren attained. Crossing Castle Crags, they found the Aberdeen Glacier too steep and therefore took to the face and ridge of Mt. Haddo, of which they...
Deo Tibba. This now frequently climbed, 19,687-foot Kulu peak was climbed on May 18 by the expedition’s leader, C. Pritchard, and R. Hatch and on May 20 by S. Kumar, B. Merchant and the Ladakhi porter Wangyal. On the 20th Pritchard and Hatch also ...
FALLING ROCKBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. QuadraA. Magnus, a member of a party of 13, was crossing a pass, which required a rappel, near Mt. Quadra on 5 August 1979. Magnus was first down and stayed at the foot. A rock fall hit him on the...
The Citadel, North Face. In early August, TM Herbert, Dennis Hennek, and I climbed the 1700-foot north face of the Citadel at the south end of Le Conte Canyon. We chose the longest most direct line leading to the east summit. The first day was spe...
Dhaulagiri Attempts, Ascents and Tragedy. Nine teams attempted Dhaulagiri (8167 meters) this autumn, all via the Northeast Ridge. The climbers came from Georgia, Belarussia, Bulgaria, Kazakhstan, Japan, Spain, Austria, France, Italy, the Netherlan...
Acamani Sur. Our objective had been to reach the summit of Aca- mani (18,590 feet) via its south ridge. Unfortunately the ridge comes to a high point (17,455 feet) detached from the main peak, which could not be seen from the distance with binocul...
Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland. Oregon, launched 112 mountain climbs in Oregon, Washington, and California in 1964. Bad weather defeated 31 of these attempts, of which 14 were on Mount Hood, where the club introduces hundreds of newcomers to mou...
Rignys Bjerg Area, Various Activity. The Rignys Bjerg mountains lie some distance east of the Watkins Bjerge and Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjelde areas at approximately 69° 5' N, 26° 30' W. In late May, Nigel Edwards and three others were flown into the ar...
Ancohuma, East-northeast Face. The route we climbed on Ancohuma was to the right of the one done in 1978 by Cosimo Zappelli and his party (A.A.J., 1979, p. 252). We left La Paz on May 22 and drove to the Candelaria mine. The next day with 40 llama...
Attempt on Malubiting. We were dead unlucky on this trip. Extreme frustration ended on April 25 with permission for Malubiting from the south (we had asked for a northerly approach). Ian Bell, Arthur Clarke, Brian Cosby, Ian Grant, Brian Ripley, T...
Langtrang Himal. A two-man expedition of the Uozu Alpine Club of Toyama Prefecture, consisting of Ikuo Saegi and Tokumi Yamaguchi, did not have serious climbing objectives but they tried to climb Dôme Blanc and reached considerable height. They we...
Dhaulagiri VI, Second Ascent. Michihiko Ogata led a second Japanese expedition, this one from Fukuoka Alpine Club, to attempt Dhaulagiri IV (25,153). This post-monsoon expedition was also unsuccessful in reaching its main objective. They climbed f...
Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (1) Pikes Peak On 24 July 1948 James Slack (20), a medical student at the University of Oklahoma, left Colorado Springs for a solo climb up Pikes Peak. He had been warned against the undertaking by the friends with who...
Nanga Parbat, First American Ascent. Carlos Buhler became the first native-born American to climb Nanga Parbat when he ascended the mountain with a Russian team in July. It was also the first Russian ascent of the mountain. Further details are lac...
A List of Publications Relating to The Mountains of Alaska, by Francis P. Farquhar and Mildred P. Ashley. New York. The American Alpine Club, 1934.In a monograph of thirty-seven pages, the authors present an extensive bibliography which should be ...
The Saddlehorn, South Face. This prominent tower is located east of Mount Ruskin and can be seen from the vicinity of Taboose Pass. In May, Steve Roper and I climbed three steep pitches of free climbing up a very straight crack system on the south...
FALL OFF CORNICE, FALL INTO CREVASSE, BAD WEATHERWashington, Mount RainierBetween 0930 and 1000 on May 7, 1983, Douglas Vercoe (34), Judd Flynn, and James Busek left Paradise for Camp Muir. Their intention was to climb Mount Rainier on the followi...
ALAN J. GIVLER 1947-1977 A1 Givler and Dusan Jagersky perished last summer in Alaska while descending P 8440. Both were beloved friends of many people and the loss of their continued companionship has been keenly felt. It is an honor and privileg...
Masherbrum Attempt. Christine de Colombel and I took as our objective the beautiful west ridge of Masherbrum (7821 meters, 25,660 feet), hoping to climb it without high-altitude porters, oxygen or fixed camps. It was the first time that a woman ha...