The Evolution Traverse takes a line along the crest of the Evolution group, linking nine 13,000’ peaks named after contributors to evolutionary theory. Konstantin Stoletov and we, of San Diego’s Pullharder Alpine Club, made the first winter ...
Seventy Years of Climbing On Longs PeakJohn L. J. HartOVER a hundred years ago Longs Peak (14,255 ft.) was a landmark and nothing more. To the French trappers it was Les Deux Oreilles; to the Indians it was Nesotaieux, or the Two Guides. It stood ...
I traveled to Kyrgyzstan in August, beginning my trip once again in Ala Archa National Park outside Bishkek, the capital. The area offers a perfect chance to shake off jet lag and get one’s mountain boots banged around a bit, which I managed to do...
The Southern Vilcanota. John Wilson of Christchurch, New Zealand, and I left the village of Santa Rosa on the south side of the La Raya-Vilcanota divide on July 8 by mining truck, bound for the Mina Korani (16,000 feet) to the northeast. On the 12...
Snafflehound Spire, Snaffleophagus. The northern part of the Bugaboos has a collection of less-impressive spires called the Vowells. The rock tends to have less-perfect lines and less- climbable features than the Bugaboos proper. Overall we were a...
TABLE III1951-82 1959-82 USA CAN.1983 1983 USA CAN.TerrainRock1835107Snow122175Ice7910101Unknown102Ascent or Descent:Ascent1523119Descent117773Unknown2115Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock110878Slip on snow or ice45744Falling rock or object24415E...
FALLING ICE–FALL ON ICENew York, Adirondacks, Poke-O-MonshineIce on the first pitch of the popular 160-foot climb “Positive Thinking” broke off Poke-O-Moonshine Friday and crashed to the ground, taking an Ontario climber with it.Kevin Bailey (34) ...
Les Aiguilles de Chamonix, by Henri Isselin. Paris: Arthaud, 1960. 267 pages, 38 photo-illustrations (including a 6-page panorama), 2 route sketches, an orientation map, and a folding contour map (1:20,000) of the aiguilles W. of the Mer de Glace....
Many People Come, Looking, Looking, by Galen Rowell. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1980. 164 pages, color photos. Price $30.00.Even among the many superb photographers of today, Galen Rowell has a quality which immediately identifies his work, just a...
Other Climbs in the Cascades. Cascade Peak, the last unclimbed peak in the Cascade Pass region, was ascended on July 23rd by Schoening, Sharpe and Beckey. From Gilbert, at the end of the newly-extended Cascade River Road, the party made its way th...
Land of Mountains, Hiking and Climbing in New Zealand, by PeterRadcliffe. Seattle: The Mountaineers.Serene and pastoral on one hand, displaying the world’s biggest ten and twelve thousand-foot peaks and atrocious weather on the other, New Zealand ...
Illimani, Nada es Seguro. On April 25 Bruce and Sheila Hendricks and I took the 3 p.m. bus from La Paz to Cohoni. During the ride we chatted with locals and were able to hire an arriero (mule/horse driver), whose horses would carry our equipment i...
Washington, Index Town Wall. On 5 October John Svensson (28) and Steve Swinburne attempted some direct-aid climbing on the Index Town Wall, some 60 or so miles north of Seattle. Svensson led a direct aid pitch, and they then started up a very diff...
El Cohete, known for its splitter cracks and the longest routes in Arenales, has a frequently climbed east face, but the other faces are practically unexplored. Its north face had no known routes until, after four days of vertical gardening and ...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HELMETMaine, Acadia National Park, GunklandiaOn October 8th around 11:30 a.m., my girlfriend, a group of friends, and I were top-roping Old Town and a few adjacent routes at the Precipice. Two young women were climbing the nearby ...
Conrad KainALBERT H. MacCARTHYOnce again I have thoroughly enjoyed reading Conrad Kain’s Where the Clouds Can Go (2nd edition), especially those parts covering his life and activities in Western Canada during the days of exploration and climbing i...
Grand Teton, Southeast Chimney. By taking advantage of an important variation pioneered in 1960 by Lev, Greig, Glosser, and Laing, a new route on the Grand Teton was found by David Lowe and me on August 5. The 1960 variation started from Glencoe C...
Kedarnath Dome. This summit (22,410 feet) was again climbed on September 15 by R.S. Varma, Swaran Singh, B.P. Lama, Hirday Ram, Narain Singh, Nima Thondup and Nima Puther, of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. This team originally was attempting Keda...
ELIZABETH WOOLSEY1908-1997An enthusiastic member of the American Alpine Club for 62 years, Elizabeth D. “Betty” Woolsey, 88, died at her home on Trail Creek ranch above Wilson, Wyoming, on January 11. Her last glance was of the meadow, horses feed...
Various ski descents. In the fall Bean Bowers, Ben Ditto, and I completed a ski mountaineering circumnavigation of the Fitz Roy massif. Christened the “Southern Patagonia Ice Cap Expedition”— SPICE Tour for short—we traveled 65 miles, completed se...