West Molar, south face. For some time I had hoped there would be a classic line from the east on the main peak of Gladsheim in the Valhalla group; a shortage of information did not tell the true story—of cutoff notches and a final alpine problem. ...

Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park: (2) On July 13, 1952 J. Henry Fortenback (45), received a laceration of the temple caused by a dislodged rock above the cables of Longs Peak. Clifford Doty (30) also received a bruised left knee and leg from ...

Proboscis Variant, Logan Mountains, 1992. Spaniards José María Codina and Joaquín Olmo made the second ascent of the 1963 first-ascent route of Proboscis, with a variant. After climbing the first third of the route, they continued straight up, whe...

California, Yosemite, Serenity Crack. On 20 March, Verne Muhr and Gary Lane were climbing Serenity Crack. Since there already was a party of two on the climb they let them get about halfway up the first pitch then Verne started nailing the first p...

FALL ON SNOW, NOT WEARING CRAMPONSCalifornia, Mount ShastaOn June 11, 1989, Richard Ferrell (45) and his brother Brett Ferrell (31) were climbing on Sergeants Ridge on Mount Shasta. They had ice axes and were carrying (but not wearing) crampons. R...

Ganesh VI, First Ascent. Two members of a six-man Japanese team made what they believe was the first ascent of Ganesh VI (6480m), northeast of Kathmandu in the Ganesh Himal range. Their ultimate objective was the top of Ganesh II (7111 m), while t...

Dhaulagiri Tragedy. In December, three men disappeared on Dhaulagiri who were attempting a winter ascent by the normal northeast ridge. Four Americans and two Canadians, whose leader Timothy Brill did not even reach Base Camp, were apparently more...

Ritipampa del Quelccaya. A field party from the Institute of Polar Studies, The Ohio State University, Columbus, Ohio, made several ascents of the Ritipampa del Quelccaya, an ice plateau in the Cordillera Vilcanota, during the course of glaciologi...

Peak 6,075 m, first ascent. In early September a nine-member all women team from the IMF led by Chandraprabha Aitwal approached an unclimbed 6,075m peak in Kakora Gad from Harsil on the Gangotri Road. After acclimatizing at Kana Tal, base camp was...

Sentinel, Devachan, Papsura Ascents and Tragedy. Base Camp was established by 17 New Zealanders on the west bank of the Tos Glacier at Sara on September 2. Over the next ten days, two camps were placed on the névé beneath the two principal objecti...

Manaslu. Jerónimo López Martínez, Gererdo Blázquez García and the Sherpa Soman reached the summit of Manaslu (26,760 feet) on April 27. They had made the sixth ascent of the mountain and the third from the east. The Spanish expedition, led by Jaim...

Mount McKinley. Although the weather turned back several expeditions to Mount McKinley, three were successful. On June 23 Lee Nelson, Webb Sater, Bud Payne and Steve Horner reached the South Peak via the West Buttress. Two groups climbed Karsten’s...

Rubal Kang. On June 26th K. E. Snelson and J. de V. Graaf of Cambridge University, with Pasang Dawa, who previously had climbed on K2, reached the summit of Rubal Kang, 20,300 feet. This peak lies at the head of one of the four glaciers explored b...

Pumari Chhish Attempt and Ascent of “Skirish Sar”. Our Austrian expedition to the mountains north of the Hispar Glacier was composed of Georg Bachler, Robert Schauer, Hilmar Sturm, Hias Schreder, Sepp Portenkirchner and me as leader. With 32 porte...

Langtang Lirung Winter Attempt. Eight Japanese led by Kouich Ezaki attempted to climb Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 27,324 feet) by its southeast ridge. They were able to get only to 6250 meters on December 11.Elizabeth Hawley

Trango Tower, West Pillar, second ascent. A Swiss team comprising Francesco Pellanda, Giovanni Quirici, and Christophe Steck made the second ascent of the 1987 Dedale-Schaff- ter-Fauquet-Piola route on the west pillar of Trango Tower (6,251m), a d...

Iowa Mountaineers. The club has become increasingly active in sponsoring skiing, backpacking, and mountaineering courses for University of Iowa credit. In January 40 members camped at 11,000 feet in Colorado’s Collegiate Range and completed a 10-d...

Peak 6,100m, attempt. A 16-member Japanese team, with Sherpa support, visited the mountains north of the Annapurna Range during the summer season. Susumu Akihata and Yuichiro Ishi- hara were joint leaders. The expeditions goal was an unnamed and u...

Burgundy Spire, Annie Green Spring Route. David Jay and I climbed this new route on the south ridge and southwest face in mid-October. We scrambled up the obvious gully to a large chockstone and moved right to the ridgecrest. We followed the ridge...

Mount Moran, Central Triple Glacier. The last of the three glaciers on the northwest side of Mount Moran was investigated this past summer on August 24 by James Greig and P. Cleveland. A bivouac was made at the base of the glacier and the next mor...