East Face of Longs Peak, The Diamond, Toiling Midgets. During the second week of August, Pete Takeda and I established a new route, Toiling Midgets (VIA3+ 5.8), on the east face of Longs Peak. Upon arriving at the base of the wall we discovered th...
Mera. French climbers, Marcel Jolly, G. Bang, L. Honnilh, L. Limarques, with Ang Lakhpa and two other Sherpas climbed Mera (21,120 feet) in the Khumbu region on October 29, 1973. They climbed steep glacial slopes on the north. In 1953 Colonel Jimm...
Fast track permits. 113 Himalayan peaks were pre-cleared for 2009, meaning that obtaining permits should only take two-three weeks. You still need to fill out an application and other formalities, but now you can arrive on a tourist visa, so the h...
Dave Diegelman (17) and Bill Brice (17) had been climbing for the full day of August 19, 1975, on Half Dome’s Regular North Face, VI 5.8, A3. It started to rain moderately hard at 3 p.m. The climbers continued on for one more hour to reach the biv...
Denali: A Literary Anthology, edited by Bill Sherwonit (Mountaineers Books, $18.95), is a new volume that collects a variety of literary works. Although the mountaineering accounts collected here will be familiar to most readers of this journal, t...
Mount Palmer, Chugach Mountains. Named after one of the early traders in the Knik River area, George Palmer, this is one of the cirque peaks of the Hunter Creek Glacier, located roughly 35 miles east of Anchorage and ¾ of a mile southwest of where...
W. RYLAND HILL 1912-1988Ryland Hill, an American Alpine Club member since 1961, died on December 22, 1988. He was Dean Emeritus of the College of Engineering at the University of Washington in Seattle. He had also served in UNESCO as chief of thei...
Mount Monarch, South Ridge, 1977. I made solo the first ascent of this obscure route, the south ridge, on the beautiful peak which dominates the southern Tweedsmuir area. On August 14 Fred Beckey and I were flown to Success Lake and made an airdro...
Aided by the unlikely combination of the Peruvian army and the Evangelical Union of South America, our Scottish Andean Expedition set up a forward base in the Urubamba valley at Calca, north of Cuzco, on July 3. At the head of the Quebrada Cancha ...
Squaretop, AC/DC. To the left of the great bay in the east face of Squaretop, the wall forms a long fin that ends in a tower. From Granite Lake our route and the formation are quite obvious. We called the tower “Squaretower” and our route on the f...
Mount Gerdine, Alaska Range. The ascent of Mount Gerdine (10,765 feet) was finally completed on May 5 after two previous unsuccessful attempts. The first was made in September, 1961, by Helga Bading, Dr. Rod Wilson, Gregg Erickson and John Dillman...
Tony Dick and I climbed a new line in the Emperor Face in August 1981. We went left of the Stumps-Logan line. There was much hard ice climbing, much rockfall and rock climbing up to 5.9, A3. In July 1982 Urs Kallen, Tim Friesen and I attempted to ...
Colorado, Boulder, Amphitheater—On November 20, Michael Finnegan (19) and Barbara Reinecke (17) were climbing in the Amphitheater. The weather was mild and warm with sun on the rock. Their clothing was adequate and climbing conditions were good. T...
RAPPEL FAILURE New York, ShawangunksWhile descending Easy Overhang on July 28, a climber (18) rappelled off the end of his rope and fell 20 feet, suffering cuts and bruises. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisIn many places in this climbing area, a 150-...
Crescent South Faces, Bugaboo Spires. The first climb done on the 1968 Calgary Mountain Club camp was the south face of one of the Crescent Towers, the "Donkey’s Ears” face visible from Boulder Camp, and it was climbed by Brian Greenwood, Ron Thom...
STRANDED–FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Eldorado State ParkOn June 13, a twenty-one-year-old male with moderate climbing experience was seconding the second pitch of the Bulge (5.7) at Redgarden Wall when he fell about three feet...
Trango Nameless Tower, Insumisioa. It was reported that the Spainish team of Fermín Izco, Mikel Zabalza, and Antonio Aquerreta established a new route on the Northeast Face of the Trango Nameless Tower. Insumisoa was developed at roughly the same ...
Khinyang Chhish. The British-Pakistani Karakoram Expedition, under the joint leadership of Major E. James E. Mills and Captain Jawed Akhter, had overcome the greatest obstacles on the route up the southeast side of Kkinyang Chhish (25,762 feet) ab...
Himalchuli, South Face. The Yuki-To-Iwa-No-Kai Expedition made the second ascent of Himalchuli by a new route. We were Kazumi Fuji- kura, Satoru Tamura, Hisao Miyazaki, Sandaichi Omata, Shigenori Tamura, Tadashi Okamoto, Kenji Morohashi, Kazuhiro ...
Effects Of El Niño On Patagonia’s 1997-’98 Climbing Season. Briefly explained, El Niño is a sporadic warm water current that flows clockwise from west to east along the equator and then south along South America’s west coast against the normal pol...