Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Arizona, Spider Rock, Canyon de Chelly

Spider Rock, Canyon de Chelly. A solo ascent of Spider Rock was made by Dave Jones. An unreported free ascent was accomplished in 1981 (5.10) by Tom Kosgriff and Todd Skinner. The crux of their climb was an off-width crack near the summit of the 8...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self Arrest, Party Separated, Exceeding Abilities — California, Mount Shasta, Hotlum/Bolum Ridge

FALL ON HARD SNOW - UNABLE TO SELF ARREST, PARTY SEPARATED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Hotlum/Bolum RidgeOn September 12, a team of four climbers was descending the Hotlum/Bolum Ridge. Two of the team went ahead to scout the desc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Auyuittuq National Park, Mt. Asgard, Scott Route, and Various Beta

Mt. Asgard, Scott Route, and Various Beta. In early August, Jeff Bowman and I climbed the 1974 Scott Route on the southeast buttress of Mt. Asgard with two bivouacs (owing to a 4 p.m. start). Because of the relative popularity of this route, we th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Montana, Tweedy Mountain, East Pioneers Mountains

Tweedy Mountain, East Pioneers Mountains. In August, Craig Zaspel and I made the first ascent of Tweedy Mountain’s north ridge, including the prominent tower. There were seven pitches of enjoyable alpine climbing followed by 500 feet of 4th-class ...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Adirondack Forty-Sixers

The Adirondack Forty-Sixers, by Grace L. Hudowalski, Edward A. Harmes, Katherine T. Flickinger, Peter A. Ward, and Orville C. Gowie, with Preface by Rudolph W. Strobel and Introduction by David H. Beetle. Published by the Adirondack Forty-Sixers. ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Around the Roof of the World

Around the Roof of the World. Edited by Nicholas and Nina Shoumatoff. The University of Michigan Press, Ann Arbor, 1996. 23 chapters, 23 drawings, and 16 colored plates. Notes, index, 227 pages. Hard cover. $29.95.This fine book by American Alpine...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangtega in Winter

Kangtega in Winter. Kangtega (6779 meters, 22,241 feet) was climbed in the winter for the first time. Ten South Koreans led by Kyong Soo-Jeon climbed it from the south, establishing three camps, the highest at 5800 meters. On December 31 Lee Dae-S...


Accident Reports ANAM
Belay Anchor Failure—Knot Came Undone, Fall on Rock, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Owen

BELAY ANCHOR FAILU RE-KNOT CAME UNDONE, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount OwenOn the evening of September 3, a cell phone call reported an Exum client with a sprained anlde on the West Ledges of Mount Owen. Tanya Bradby of Seat...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori, East Face

Pumori, East Face. On October 25, Sherpas Sundare, Ang Dorje and Nima and I got to the top of Pumori. We made the climb directly from Base Camp. With five Sherpas, I had fixed 1500 meters of rope for my seven clients, but not one of them could get...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Washington, Magic Mountain

FALL ON ROCKWashington, Magic MountainOn September 16, 1984, Alex Deak (50) fell while descending the east side of Magic Mountain. His ten meter fall resulted in a broken ankle, and a helicopter evacuation was made. A month earlier, the same indiv...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri Winter Ascent, January, 1985, Correction

Dhaulagiri Winter Ascent, January, 1985, Correction. The Poles Czok and Kukuczka climbed the northeast (normal) ridge of Dhaulagiri, not the north face as stated in A.A.J., 1985 on page 293. They reached the summit on January 21.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Morocco, Peak 4040m, New Route

Peak 4040m, New Route. On April 18, Tomas Gomez Gomez and Massimilliano Montemagno (Spain) established the new route, Eva se Desespera (V+ 75°, 645m), on Peak 4040m , near Afellah N’Ouanoukrim in the Western Atlas. Further details are lacking. (Se...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Poor Position, Colorado, Eldorado Springs

FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITION Colorado, Eldorado SpringsOn June 21,1986, a Japanese climber was hit by a rock while sitting at the base of a climb on the Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Springs State Park. No other climbers were visible above him when th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Oregon, Three Fingered Jack

FALL ON ROCKOregon, Three Fingered JackKate Tinnesand (23), a graduate student at Oregon State University and member of Corvallis Mountain Rescue Unit, died in a fall while descending Three Fingered Jack, on July 23, after a climb with two other U...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Southwest Ridge of Mount Moran

Southwest Ridge of Mount Moran. Between the many-stepped south and west ridges of Mount Moran there is only one other, the long southwest ridge which leads directly to the summit plateau. John Fonda, Dave Dingman, and Karl Pfiffer climbed this fro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Batura IV

Batura IV. An expedition of nine Poles and a German led by Wladylaw Wisz succeeded in making the first ascent of Batura IV (7500 meters, 24,607 feet) by the splendid south face. This face of about 11,500 feet had very difficult passages and could ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Central, Cordillera Jatún Chácua, Clarification, and Cerro Janpari, Ascent

Cordillera Jatún Chácua, clarification, and Cerro Janpari, ascent. The Cordillera Jatún Chácua is located south of the Cordillera Raura and north of the Cordillera de la Viuda. The only access is through the mining town of Oyón and up the Pucayacu...


Book Reviews AAJ
Oesterreich: Austria, her landscape and her art

Oesterreich: Austria, her landscape and her art, by Viktor Griessmaier. 60 pages of trilingual text, with 336 full-page photographs. Vienna: Anton Schroll, 1950. Price, $11.00.The newest and most comprehensive pictorial work on Austria, this book ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Serei Porkush, 1984

Serei Porkush, 1984. More details are available on the first ascent of 6872-meter (22,546-foot) Serei Porkush. The peak lies south of Kampir Dior above the lower part of the Batura Glacier. The British climbers took eight days to ascend the glacie...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Ronti

Ronti. Mr. Peter Aufschnaiter and I reached the summit of Ronti (19,895 feet) on June 15, 1955. [This was the first ascent. Editor.] Setting out from Nanda Prayag, we ascended the Nanda Kini valley, crossed the Humkum Gala (17,000 feet) and next a...