Notch Peak is located approximately 45 miles west of Delta on U.S. 6/50. Directions to it are given in James Garrett’s Ibex and Selected Climbs of Utah’s West Desert. Dave Shewell and I climbed Appetite for Destruction (IV 5.11 A0 or 5.12-) on Not...
East Peak, Black Butte near Mount Baker. On May 4, after deciding that rotten rock ruled out an attempt on the unclimbed Roman Nose (northwest arête) of Mount Baker, Fergus O’Conner and Edward Cooper turned to the unclimbed ice wall rising between...
Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route, Solo Ascent, and Fifth Man to Climb all 14 8000ers. It was reported that Krzysztof Wielicki “led” a 10-member international expedition to Nanga Parbat, though he was still on K2 [see Climbs and Expeditions: Tibet] wh...
Whitesaddle Mountain, North Face. In July, Reed Tindall and I made the first climb of spectacular Whitesaddle Mountain from the north. The mountain, so visible and prominent from Bluff Lake and the upper valley of Moseley Creek, has seen only a fe...
Bear Tooth, Unforgiven to serac base. On May 13 Gilly James and I climbed a gully on a west-facing buttress of the Bear Tooth [located to the right of the prominent hanging glacier southwest of the Bear Tooth summit—Ed]. Approach from the Root Can...
Araca and Choquetango Groups, Quimsa Cruz. This expedition of Germans was led by Hermann Wolf and composed of Rudi Bülter, Georg Fichtner, Christian Griesshammer, Peter Hacker, Karl-Heinz Hetz, Widukind Langenmaier, Michael Lentrodt, Michael Mager...
Miar Peak Attempt. A scientific-mountaineering expedition led by Dr. Franco Secchieri and assisted by Marino Lena failed to climb Miar Peak (6824 meters, 22,390 feet) because of the impossibility of ascending the Miar Glacier. They did make the fi...
Cerro Ventanani, Ruta de Los Amigos, New Route and Cerro Sancayuni, West Face Hanging Glacier Route, First Solo Ascent. On July 8 and 9, I established one new route and made a first solo ascent in the Linco Valley of the Cordillera Real. The Linco...
Colorado, Third Flatiron. On 22 February Franklin Lankford (20) started out at about 1:00 p.m. to make a solo winter climb of the Third Flatiron. In good weather the standard route is a fourth class friction climb on a 45 degree sandstone slab som...
In late June Crispin Chatterton, Rob Grant, and I traveled to Ren Land in the west of Scoresbysund. The area is part of the main Greenland landmass, but separated from it by a deep valley, and is characterized by a major ice sheet with smaller sub...
FALLING ROCK, IMPROPER TECHNIQUE, STRANDED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn August 27, 1986, a party of two began climbing the Greenwood-Locke route on the north face of Mount Temple. They reached the top of the easy climbing and bivouacke...
Churen Himal Tragedy. On September 14, a 15-man German Alpine Club (DAV) expedition led by Gustav Harder began its approach. The purpose was to train experienced climbers from the Alps to climb in the great mountains of the world. The south ridge ...
CHESTER L. ERRETT1905-1994Chester L. Errett was a member of the American Alpine Club for 51 years. He was hard working, persistent and helpful to others in his vocations and avocations. Chet was born in Los Angeles, California, on October 23, 1905...
Nilgiri North. A Polish women’s expedition came to Nepal rather late in the season and established Base Camp on October 21, just 3½ weeks before the season officially ends. They attempted the north face to the west ridge of Nilgiri North, the same...
Dhaulagiri I, Attempt and Tragedy. Chantai Mauduit and the Sherpa she often climbed with, one of several men named Ang Tshering (not a summiter of any 8000-meter mountain), were found lying in their second high-altitude camp at 6550 meters on Dhau...
Bharte Khunta. This peak was climbed on June 19 by a team from Delhi led by C.S. Pande.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
East-Southeast Ridge of Symmetry Spire. John Dietschy, Dave Dingman, and Karl Pfiffner on July 30, 1957 climbed this new route, the first ridge to the east of the Jensen Ridge. This ridge ends on the east ridge, which they then followed to the sum...
Spantik, British Route, Second Ascent and Variation. Mikhail Davy, Alexander Klenov, Marko Prezelj, Manu Guy, Manu Pellissier and Attila Ozsvath traveled to Spantik (7028m) in June. After climbing 25 pitches of the British route, Davy and Klenov r...
Huddleson’s Bluff, South Fork of the Clearwater River. On October 19, 1973, we crossed the cold river and hiked downstream to the wall. In the morning we crossed the sometimes very exposed ledge at the base of the main wall to where Dave had left ...
Cold Climbs. Ken Wilson, Dave Alcock and John Barry, compilers. Diadem Books, London, 1983. 280 pages, 181 black and white and 62 color photographs, 70 diagrams. £17.95.Please answer the following statements truthfully:1. I am an ice climber and p...