Piks Shumkar (4,925m, Falcon), Helen (4,710m), Bars (4,800m, Snow Leopard), Pik Kumay (Vulture, 4,830m), first ascents. Time flies. This was the International School of Mountaineering (ISM)’s 14th expedition to the Tien Shan, and it was as great a...
Oregon, Mt. Hood—A party consisting of 30 members (men, women and children) of the Sierra Club climbed Mt. Hood on August 19, 1955 from Timberline Lodge to the summit via the normal route (all class 2 and 3). The party was led by Gene Todd, an exp...
Sierra Club Ascents in the Canadian RockiesNorman ClydeFOR its summer outing of 1928 the Sierra Club of California decided upon a trip to the Canadian Rockies. Two base camps of about ten days each were contemplated: one in the Tonquin Valley, the...
GeographicalDistricts1951-731974Number of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta512066000British Columbia77261095343Yukon Territory9822126Ontario111000Quebec111000West Arctic112000Practice...
STORM clouds were thickening. Herb Staley, Mel Marcus and I pushed rapidly up a steep rock buttress, apparently the only approach to the South Peak of Mount Hozomeen. When we reached the tip of the buttress, we could catch only glimpses of the gau...
FALL INTO CREVASSE WHILE SKI MOUNTAINEERINGAlaska, Mount Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Mount WrangellA party of five skiers attempting a ski-traverse of Mount Wrangell in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park were rescued April 11 by pilot Harley M...
Lukpilla Brakk’s Western EdgePhilip C. Powers, UnaffiliatedWALKING OUT after our climb of Gasherbrum II was quite a social experience. The Baltoro Glacier had lost its snow and become populated. We found friends to feed us, doctors to mend us and ...
Great Trango Tower, Basejump. Our multinational team consisted of Australians Nie Feteris and me, Britons Leo and Mandy Dickinson, New Zealanders Wade Fairley and Geoff Gabites and Russians Vladislav Moroz and Irina Singleman. We arrived in Pakist...
Mountaineering Summary, Denali National Park and Preserve. The 1981 climbing season on Mount McKinley came in like a lamb and went out like a lion. The fair weather predominating in May and most of June allowed many climbers to complete short, saf...
PatagoniaLooking back, toward the futureRolando Garibotti, Club Andino Bariloche, Argentina“El futuro llego hace rato” (The future arrived long ago)—Los Redonditos de RicotaIt is not uncommon for every generation to feel that its importance in the...
Mr. Sydney Spencer has kindly transcribed the following American entries from Führerbücher in the A. C. library:1860. Aug. 29. Chamounix. Stephen zum Taugwald was my guide in the ascent of Monte Rosa, in the pass of the Weiss Thor, the tour of Mon...
Pirámide Garcilaso, Southwest Face, New Route. On August 26, Brett Wolf of Gardiner, NY, and Andy Clarke of Glasgow, Scotland, climbed a new route on the southwest face of Pirámide Garcilaso (5885 m). Previously the only route on the southwest fac...
ELWYN ALBERT ARPS1901-1990Elwyn Albert Arps, member of the American Alpine Club since 1940, was bom in Ouray, Colorado on June 4, 1901. In his boyhood, the family moved to Denver, where he grew up. He was an enthusiastic lover of the out-of-doors ...
Mt. Theodore Koven (Peak 8). AN. face and ridge route was made by Charles Grant, Jerry More and Horace Van Valkenburgh. This route, with variations, was used by several later parties. A S.-N. skyline traverse was followed by Robert Parker, Gibson ...
Thunder Peak, East Ridge. Thunder Peak is an 8,800-foot satellite of Mount Logan in the North Cascades. Its 2,000-foot east ridge first caught my eye 15 years ago during a ski ascent of Logan. The ridge features two notches, at 7,500 and 8,000 fee...
Aconcagua. A Mountain Travel group was successful in climbing the Polish Glacier route on Aconcagua (6960 meters, 22,834 feet). The summit was reached on February 9 by John Balut, Bruce Klepinger, leader, John Pratt, Mike Skreiner, Thomas Vaughan,...
Mounts Foraker and Hunter, Ascents, and McKinley, Ascent and Traverse. We started skiing from the Park Highway close to Talkeetna (milepost 131?) on April 18, following skidoo trails (which misled us), the Tokositna River, and the Kanicula and Kah...
FALL ON SNOWWyoming, TetonsJames Forsyth (25) and three companions were returning from a successful climb of the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton on August 23. They were descending the snow between the lower saddle and the Middle Teton Glacier about ...
ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, MISCOMMUNICATION, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierMount Rainier communications received a radio call on May 21 from a team of three climber/researchers in the summit crater of Mount Rainier. The reporting party, Franc...
Lunpo Kangri Attempt. Lunpo Kangri rises to 7095 meters (23,278 feet) some 700 kilometers west of Lhasa. Hiroshi Yashima led an expedition of nine members of the Himalayan Association of Japan to the mountain. On April 22, they placed Base Camp at...