Saser Kangri III. I was the leader of the 25-man Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition. We left Leh on April 16 and approached up the Shyok valley along the old “Silk Route” toward Sinkiang. The Shyok had to be forded 17 times before we got on Apr...
Mount Jeffers, Kichatna Spires. On July 1, Jay Smith and Steve Gerberding are said to have climbed a new route on the west face of Jeffers. Details are missing as we go to press.
SLIP ON SNOW, UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount NiblockA party of four were making an ascent of Mount Niblock on July 14, 1991. While traversing an upper slope covered with snow, one o...
Manaslu Attempt. Ron Rutland led six British climbers on an unsuccessful attempt to climb the northeast face of Manaslu. They reached a high point of 6000 meters on December 6 but had to give up in the face of bad weather.Elizabeth Hawley
Peaks near Manali. Jamshed Elavia, Nandlal Purohit and Dr. Geeta Mehta, Indians, and Joseph Franci, Marianne Schmidt, Margo Young and Carl Bruesch, Americans, in June climbed Hanuman Tibba (19,455 feet), Manali (18,600 feet), Ladakhi (17,525 feet)...
Pumori, Post-Monsoon Ascents, Attempts and Tragedy. A number of ascents of Pumori (7161 meters, 23,494 feet) were made in the post-monsoon period, all by the southeast face and east ridge except where noted. An expedition of 8 Swiss and 2 Germans ...
Gasherbrum II. A 12-member international expedition was led by Pole Marek Grochowski. There were six Poles, three Germans, an American, an Austrian and a South Tirolean. They had planned to climb a partially new route from the Gasherbrum La but fo...
Cerro Matus or Titlis, 1993, Northern Patagonia. In February, 1993, Argentines Patricio Figueredo, Sebastián González Chiozza, Osvaldo Méndez and guide Darío Remorino climbed Cerro Matus (1860 meters, 6102 feet: also called Titlis), on the border ...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. Japanese Hiroshi Kawasaki and Kimihiro Kumaga attempted the west ridge of Thalay Sagar in July. They placed Camp I at 5500 meters on July 20, but monsoon rains and snow increased the danger of avalanches and they abandoned th...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, SKI MOUNTAINEERINGOregon, Mount HoodOn June 15, while ski traversing the Coe glacier at about the 9500-foot elevation, Robert Wiebe (58) went out ahead of his two companions and apparently slipped during a turn. Another party of ...
LightningOne phase of this ever-interesting subject to the mountaineer has been taken up by Prof. E. Mathias in a recent issue of La Montagne (March, 1933) in an article on “Les phénomènes de la foudre ascendante et globulaire dans les montagnes e...
Xuelian Feng, Tien Shan. The Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club sent its fourth expedition to attempt Xuelian Feng with me as leader. Expeditions in 1986, 1988 and 1989 had managed to find the route to the south side of the mountain and had...
Washington, Glacier Peak—Chocolate Glacier—On the Mountaineer Summer Outing, July 30, during the descent of Chocolate Glacier, Julie Balinski (33), while traversing between two crevasses, stepped backward and fell into the lower one. Her fall was ...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—Missouri, Mark Twain South County Bank. Evelyn F. Mooers (54) fell 40 feet to her death during a rappelling exercise. A group of ten bank officials and friends were present. Police said she had attached her cl...
EQUIPMENT FAILURE—WIRED NUT BROKE, FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLEDCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn October 6, about 1900, Baek Man (27) was leading the pitch off Camp 5 on the Nose, using aid. He had placed a few pieces of protection and ...
Everest, Post-Monsoon Attempts from the North. None of the expeditions that attempted Everest via the North Col in the post-monsoon was successful. Six Italians and four Swiss, led by Aldo Verzaroli, got to 7600 meters on September 30. From an exp...
Jacob’s Chair, Fry Canyon Area. Jacob’s Chair, a 270-foot Wingate sandstone tower in south-central Utah, north of Highway 95, was first ascended by George Hurley and Bill Forrest in November, 1976. It is a previously unreported climb. The monolith...
FAILURE OF BOLT ANCHORAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainCameron Cairns (20) and Randy Clark (24) had climbed Cascade waterfall on 3 March 1978 and were rappeling down it. Cairns descended about 30 meters to easy slopes. Clark followed him,...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, and STRANDED, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefield, Mount AthabascaOn July 19, a party of two (both 38) were ascending the Northeast Ridge ofMount Athabasca, when they encountered technical, e...
Huascarán Norte, North Face. George Durand, Gilles Percia and I followed the Paragot-Seigneur route of 1966 on Huascarán Norte’s north face from July 1 to 3. We were to the right of Casarotto’s and left of the Belgian Johan de Skipper’s route. The...