Palcaraju Sur, New Route. Palcaraju Sur (6100m) is at the end of the Cojup range in the Cordillera Blanca. Pedro Gonzales Bris and I established base camp at 4300 meters on July 3 in the ruins of the site Electroperu once used to modify runoffs in...
Pilgrims of the Vertical: Yosemite Rock Climbers and Nature at Risk. Joseph E Taylor III. Harvard University Press, 2010. 384 pages. Hardcover. $29.95.Taylor's unique book stems from an earlier article that has evolved to 276 pages, with another 7...
First Ascents and New Routes, Southern Wind River Range. We are uncertain how much of our route on Mount Temple’s north face, which we did on August 22, is new, but we believe that the upper half, above the glacier, is a complete deviation from a ...
Report on Bolivian Climbing. The year looked good on paper—twelve good new routes, a couple of old classics like Huayna Potosí, innumerable shorter climbs and so forth—but the memory is deadened by the July coup d’état which brought so much pain t...
Scottish East Greenland Expedition to Southern Staunings Alps. The following members of the mountaineering clubs of St. Andrews University, Dr. Philip Gribbon (Leader), Ian Wasson, John Wedderburn, Ian Wilkinson and of the Royal College of Science...
British Mountaineering Council Meet. Mark Hutchinson, our British Mountaineering Council host, has a most enjoyable and charismatic personality and did an unsurpassable job of organizing the meet and in particular of arranging an itinerary which a...
Peak 12,360' South Ridge. In mid-April Jon Miller and I left Fairbanks for a climb of the obvious line on the south face of Peak 12,360'. Situated between Mt. Hayes and Mt. Shand, this unnamed peak is the third highest peak in the Hayes Range. We ...
Pumori. A Japanese expedition led by Yasuo Iwazoe successfully climbed the normal, south ridge of Pumori. From Camp III, after a bivouac, on October 21 Ryoichi Hamada, Michio Sugawara and Hiroyuki Mizuguchi got to the summit (7145 meters, 23,442 f...
In 2003, in Chamonix, France, conditions were good, and alpinists in heaven. I heard whispers in the lift lines of an American woman, an accomplished alpinist. The whispers carried awe, respect, and stories of the Croz Spur on the north face of th...
On a rainy day in early spring 2005, I walked below Lower Cathedral Rock and Middle Cathedral Rock. As I came to the base of the Gunsight, the gully that splits Lower and Middle, I gazed at the sweeping north-northwest face of Middle. A hast...
Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing. Jeff Lowe. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1996. 256 pages, color photos. $29.95.Waterfall Ice: Jeff Lowe’s Climbing Techniques. Arctic Wolf, Nederland, Colorado, 1995. Video. 180 minutes. $...
The Citadel, Supa Dupa Couloir. While climbing Off the Wall Madness in 2002, Twid Turner and I were amazed by a couloir running vertically, straight to the summit. In 2003 we were back for more, accompanied by Ollie Sanders. The Shadows Glacier wa...
FALLING ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn July 12, 1981, Lori Rose and Climbing Ranger Randy Harrington climbed Sentinel Turret in Death Canyon. At the beginning of the second pitch, a large (approximately 10” × 4”) rock came hurtling down from above and hit...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITIONNew York, Adirondack High Peaks, Wright PeakOn February 20, one skier was killed and five others injured when they were caught in an avalanche in the Adirondack High Peaks while skiing in an off-trail area. The avalanche oc...
Mountaineering Holiday, by Frank Smythe. 8 vo.; 229 pages, with 24 illustrations and a map. London: Hodder & Stoughton, 1940. Price 12/6.This book describes the Alpine vacation and guideless climbing of two experienced English mountaineers. Th...
North post Spire, Bugaboos, North Face. From a camp on the west side of the Vowell Glacier, Jim Alt, Volker Vogt and I in June climbed the north face of Northpost Spire. We ascended easy third-class slopes to the right of the slabs to just below t...
Denali National Park, other ascents. The following information supplements the individual reports above. Ian Welsted and Chris Brazeau started up the Denali Diamond after the Japanese party (see above), and though they skipped the upper four pitch...
FAILED TO TURN BACK, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHER, POOR POSITION–BIVOUAC SITECalifornia, Split MountainIn October, the climb up our twelfth 14,000-foot peak, Split Mountain, did not go well. One member of our climbing party, Dave Fre...
MARW A Ice Screw. An ice screw has been developed in Austria, which is different from the type described in the A.A.J., 1960, 12:1, p. 190. The MARW A ice screws sent to me to test were about 6½" long with a shaft 5/16" in diameter. The upper inch...
Karambony, Sakay, Tsaranoro, The Zoze Wall, and Other New Routes. On July 8, Jim Haden and I arrived in Antananarivo, Madagascar. Within 20 minutes we were slapped in the face with the fact that we had no agenda or local contact. I had planned to ...