Huascarádn Norte, East Face, Chacraraju, South Face, and Other Peaks. In June and July with the Peruvians Lucho Felipe and Américo Tardoyo I climbed Huandoy Oeste by a new route from the Cook Glacier, Artesonraju from the Quebrada Santa Cruz, Pisc...
Waddington Range, Various Activity. The wettest spring on record drifted into a pretty scruffy summer, but four noteworthy new routes, including Dave Hesleden and Simon Richardson’s; (see below) and one significant “completion” got done in breaks ...
Huandoy Norte and Cayesh. Geoff Creighton’s and my first objective was Huandoy Norte by a new route* that ascends the steep, broad apron of rock and ice below the west peak and then traverses west to the col between the north and west peaks. From ...
The Himalayas arc becoming more popular. We read of at least four expeditions now under way for climbing there next summer. Herr Paul Bauer, who led the Bavarian party of 1929, will again lead the same group, with the exception of Dr. Ernst Beigel...
Bollinger Peak, Southwest Face. Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and I made a new route on the southwest face of Bollinger Peak on July 19. We started up an inside corner, formed by some black, flaky rock just left of the long, steep, slabby gully on the ...
Super Nova Area, High Line. On March 20, 2000, in the Super Nova Area near the Rostrum, Ammon McNeely, and Cedar Wright established High Line (VI 5.10R A4). The route is located between Crack the Whip and Dime Bag. The climbers report “This route ...
Twaharpies Peaks, Wrangell Mountains. We eight Poles flew from McCarthy to the Glacier Creek landing on the Chitistone River. We had an airdrop on the upper part of the Twaharpies Glacier at 6000 feet, where we set up Base Camp. Our main climbs we...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDNew York, ShawangunksA young man (17) died after a 200-foot fall from the final 15-foot ledge of Strictly From Nowhere (5.7). He was scrambling unroped at the time. (Source:, Brad Snyder)
Annapurna, Attempt and Tragedy. On December 2, Anatoli Boukreev and I, accompanied by the alpinist and videographer Dimitri Sobolev, flew by helicopter from the last lodge to a base camp at 4095 meters. A long glacier separated us from the beginni...
Torrecita Tito Carrasco, First Ascent, and Cerro Pollone, West Pillar, A Fine Piece. In November, 1999, I went back to Patagonia with Jim Donini with no fixed objectives but hopeful of finding some good unclimbed terrain above the Marconi Glacier....
CORNICE COLLAPSEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount PattersonOn July 24, 1985, two men were climbing Bluebird Glacier on Mount Patterson. About 1900 hours, they were two pitches above the bergschrund on the final ice pitch that leads to the summit rid...
Kun. Franz Bayerschmidt, Andreas Loferer, Sepp Madl, Jürgen Mecke, Othmar Urscheler, Christian Auer and Laurent Fautsch got to the top of Kun on August 12 and 15.Günter Hauser, Deutscher Alpenverein
Ninjeri, Chango Glacier, Spiti. The Chango Glacier lies at the northeastern end of the Kinnaur District of Himachal Pradesh on the Indo-Tibetan border. The glacier is surrounded by snowy peaks and Chamonix-type aiguilles, which had been viewed fro...
Rainbows. In late June, Russell McLean and I established a new route on the western wall of the Ribbon Falls amphitheatre. We began this very steep, predominantly direct-aid route about 200 feet in from the amphitheater’s outer edge, precisely at ...
Knud Rasmussen Land, first ascents. A team of young British climbers (average age 25) completed 16 ascents of previously unclimbed peaks in the West Knud Rasmussen Land, ca 40km northeast of the Watkins Mountains. From June 13 to July 22 Richard F...
Istor-o-Nal North. The Salzburg section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖVA) was composed of Kurt Lapuch, leader, Manfred Oberegger and Max Friedwagner. They first reconnoitered the upper Lopar valley, east of Istor-o-Nal group, looking for a route o...
Tilitso Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition from Moravia, Czechoslovakia was led by Jirí Bobák and I was the climbing leader. The other climbers were Dr. Raimund Mikal, Petr Gríbek, Leoš Horka, Zdenek Krácmar, Ludvík Palecek and Dalibor Trpík. We w...
Jogin II. An expedition led by Amulya Sen finally succeeded in making the first ascent of Jogin II (20,208 feet) after previous unsuccessful attempts. They established Base Camp on the Kedar Glacier on September 30. On October 11 from Camp II at 1...
Cerro Torre. On February 17, Brazilian Makoto Ishibe and I reached the summit of Cerro Torre via the Maestri route. He is the first Brazilian to make the ascent. We left Base Camp on February 16 and climbed five pitches above the standard snow-cav...
A New Climbing Club in Ecuador. In August, 1972 a group of expatriate residents in Ecuador organized an English-speaking climbing club in Quito, the International Andean Mountaineers. The club meets every Wednesday evening at the Club Wildcatter P...