Quechua Names in the Northern Peruvian Andes and Their MeaningsCésar Morales Arnao,1 Club Andino Peruano Translated by H. Adams CarterIt is not hard to express oneself in everyday Quechua. What is difficult is to give an etymological explanation o...
FALL ON ROCK, NUT/CAM PULLED OUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESTennessee, Sunset Rock, Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military ParkThe park received a report of a serious fall and injury to a male climber (23) beneath Sunset Rock in the park’s Lookout...
Mountaineer: Thirty Years of Climbing on the World’s Great Peaks. Chris Bonington. Diadem Books, London, and Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1989. 192 pages, numerous color illustrations. £17.95 or $29.95.Chris Bonington’s latest book, his tenth...
The Last Blue Mountain, by Ralph Barker. London: Chatto & Windus, 1959- 212 pages, 22 ills. Price 21s. New York: Doubleday, 1960. Price $3.95.This is not just another book of the expedition; it is different in two important respects. First it ...
Mount Vancouver, West Face. Mount Vancouver was first climbed in 1938 by Noel Odell and party. Our ascent, the fifth, was by the previously unclimbed west face. We flew in from Kluane on May 27. After four days of avalanche watching, we had some...
Photography of the Kangto Range. During a trek to the East Kamang district in October-November, Harish Kapadia took photos of the enigmatic high peaks straddling the Arunachal-Tibet border. These form what is generally referred to as the Kangto Ra...
Arrigetch Peaks, Western Brooks Range. On July 9 Dave Dahl, Jock Richardson, Bill Zaumen and I flew from Betties to Takahula Lake and began the long walk into the Arrigetch Peaks. By early evening of the next day we reached our base camp in Aiyago...
BELAY FAILURE—Washington, The Tooth. Jack Bartleson (46) was injured while climbing on the southwest corner of The Tooth on April 24.The accident occurred as Bartleson was being belayed by Don Brooks while a second rope team consisting of Jim Llew...
FALL ON SNOW, UNROPED, POOR POSITION Colorado, Mount Sneffles(Following is a letter from Adam Beal [early 20’s] to a friend.)Our plan was to set up a base camp on Sunday, and then do a technical ascent of Mount Sneffles on June 24. The climb up Mo...
Cholatse from the WestAndrew SeltersOUR CHOLATSE CLIMB proved to me the value of setting ambitions high enough to make life interesting but modest enough to let life in general remain the truer goal. We had no illusions about an ultimate climb, bu...
Siguniang, north face attempt; Siguniang North, attempt; Camel Peaks. The Siguniang Group was visited in May by UK alpinists, Tom Chamberlain, Dave Evans, Dave Hollinger, and Andy Sharpe. This team, which set up Base Camp in the Chang Ping, had as...
Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. Bob McDougall and I spent our first six days in the spires getting acquainted with the sleet and snow storms characteristic of the Kichatnas, and moving our supplies despite them. After landing on the Tatina G...
Haydon Peak on Skis. Our group, consisting of Pierre Beghin, Christian Bougnaud, Jackiepolo Duliand, Alain Gaimard, Michel Poencet, Maurice Poulain and me, landed on May 6 at Yakatat in very bad weather. On May 8 we made a reconnaissance flight of...
Colorado, North Cheyenne Canyon—On November 28, Roger E. Ross (18), Lawrence L. Beckner (17) and Edward Rhodes (17) went from Colorado Springs to the nearby cliffs of Cheyenne Canyon. The area is used by Ft. Carson soldiers for mountaineering prac...
Sierra Nevada de Mérida. This note is contributed to encourage North Americans visiting on business to pack their climbing boots. Access to this range from Mérida, by the world’s highest cable-car system, is now so rapid as to put a premium upon a...
Mount Adams, Pinnacle Glacier Headwall. On June 26 Gary Faulkes and I packed into Killen Creek Meadow on the west side of Mount Adams to climb the northwest ridge route and to reconnoiter the Pinnacle Glacier Headwall, which lies between the north...
Mt. Saugstad. Mt. Saugstad (about 11,000 ft.*) is in the Coast Range of British Columbia, some 13 miles S.E. of the small fishing and lumbering town of Bella Coola. The Mundays and Henry Hall visited the area in three different years and carried o...
Bollinger, East Face, Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range. Dave Goeddel and I completed an exhilarating new route on the vertical east face of Bollinger. The route follows a prominent diagonal crack system for four leads before zigzagging to th...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, ROPE SEVERED New York, ShawangunksOn April 29, a climber (20) became tired while attempting High Exposure, a 5.6 route. He was also off route. He fell, and his rope severed as a result of impact on a sharp ed...
Palcaraju Sur, New Route. Palcaraju Sur (6100m) is at the end of the Cojup range in the Cordillera Blanca. Pedro Gonzales Bris and I established base camp at 4300 meters on July 3 in the ruins of the site Electroperu once used to modify runoffs in...