A.A.C., Siena Nevada Section. The year 1979 was an active one for our section’s 196 members. Sixteen section-sponsored events were held, including three traditional section meetings, seven organizational meetings, three outings, one service projec...
Kak Bhusand, Rajrambha. Gangotri III. All three of these peaks were climbed by members of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. Kak Bhusand (19,210 feet) was climbed on May 14 by J.S. Negi, leader, Nafe Singh, Mingur and Ang Chettar, a first ascent. Thi...
San Valentín. On December 28, fourteen people climbed San Valentin (given both as 4058 and 3876 meters, 13,314 and 12,716 feet). The group was organized by Frenchman Philippe Moderé, who had previously climbed the mountain with his wife Nicole in ...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount BlumOn September 6, 1987, John Petroske (31) was leading out a pitch nine of a new route on the west face of the North Ridge of Mount Blum. The North Ridge requires a long one-day approach in a very remote area of the...
Solo Ascents. I climbed Cayambe on June 13, 1972, Cotopaxi on the 18th and Chimborazo on the 20th, all solo.Michael Kelsey, Unaffiliated
Cerro Cristal. Ugo and Benigno Balatti, Giuseppe Alippi and I had hoped to climb Cerro Campana, which rises north of the Glaciar Moyano, but the weather in late 1991 made this impossible. As a consolation, on January 3 we climbed Cerro Cristal (22...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITIONNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Huntington RavineDuring the afternoon of March 30, two climbers (ages unknown) emerged from North Gully onto the more open slopes above the gully. After simul- climbing the gully’s midsectio...
Nanga Parbat. After a four-day approach, on June 20 Italians Sergio Martini, Fausto De Stefani, Almo Giambisi and Carlo Claus got to Base Camp at 4200 meters at the foot of the Diamir Face. Despite bad weather, they established Camps I and II at 4...
Washington—Cascades, Snoqualmie Pass: Keith Jacobson (17), Larry Schinke (17), and Eddie Olmquist (17) without registering or checking on weather conditions started on an overnight ski-mountaineering trip from Snoqualmie Pass Summit to Snow Lake o...
Leopold’s Needle, Gila Wilderness Area. Driving west into a setting sun, shortly before Glenwood, Jon Butler and I saw a wild tower. We spent an entire evening driving back and forth on Forest Service roads, trying to figure the best approach to t...
Climbing Regulations in Argentine National Parks. While climbing in Argentina last winter I found out the new rules for climbing in the national parks; climbers would do well to comply with these and get permits in Buenos Aires before leaving for ...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, POSSIBLE AVALANCHE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn April 20, 1991, Joe Massari (45) was attempting Kiener’s Route on Longs Peak. Conditions were quite adverse, with...
Everest Attempt by a New Route. Canadian Barry Blanchard and I attempted a new route on the north side of Everest without fixed rope, camps or supple-mentary oxygen. We followed the spur between the two large couloirs that go up into the pinnacles...
Tigray and Adwa regions, Nebelet, summary of new routes 2006–winter 2008. Ethiopia is a hardcore adventure-climbing destination where you have to take the rough with the smooth, and there can be more rough than smooth. The sandstone in southern Ti...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, IGNORING HAZARDS TO OBTAIN OBJECTIVEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Bruins PassOn March 17, 1993, Fritz B. (33), from Austria, and Herbert F. (50), from Germany, skied up Connaught Creek toward Bruins Pass after chec...
Gasherbrum I. An expedition of eight Canadians, led by Gilbert Rioux, climbed the Yugoslav route. On August 29, Pierre Bergeron and Dr. Christian Bernier reached the summit.
Kedar Dome. An Indian team climbed Kedar Dome (6831 meters, 22,410 feet) on June 2. Summiters were leader Sachin Karato, Sumanta Talukdar, Samir Krishna Das and Bujay Hazare. Another Indian expedition climbed the mountain when on September 29 Utta...
The Ascent of Rum Doodle. By W. E. Bowman. New York: Vanguard Press, 1957. 141 pages; ills. Price $2.95.This is the antidote for the indigestion that follows reading too many mountaineering books. It is the account of the conquest of the great Rum...
Kabru South. An Indian Army expedition led by Colonel H.S. Chaukan, former head of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Manali claims to have climbed Kabru South (7317 meters, 24,096 feet) for the first time. It is reported that 13 members re...
Cascade RangeAccident on Mt. Baker. Mr. Burge Bickford sent to Mr. Norman Bright the following information, which was forwarded to the American Alpine Club:Here are the facts regarding the Strathdee case as far as we know. Larry and Jack Schwablan...