K2—Giant of the KarakoramDave BohnTragic news reached me in late November, for I learned of the death of Günter Jahr, hit by an automobile in Munich while riding his motorcycle. Though Günter spoke no English, and I no German, we shared twelve fin...
Peak 6,482', The Reach Around; and Peak 6,482', and Slow and Delirious. In spring 2005 two routes were started on Peak 6,482', unnamed but known in the local climbing community as G-l. G-l is short for Mt. Greer, named in honor of the Greer brothe...
This is the thirty-eighth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the eighth that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: There was a substantial decrease in the numbe...
AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains North, Durrand GlacierOn January 20, a group of eleven backcountry skiers was caught in an avalanche. Three people were able to extricate themselves and they dug out one injured person. Seven other skie...
Nalumasortoq, Planeta Spisek, New Route, and Ulamertorssuaq, Ascents. The Polish Greenland 2000 expedition climbing team consisted of Jacek Fluder, Janusz Golab, Stan Piecuch, and Marcin Tomaszewski. They were accompanied by a small television tea...
Everest, West Ridge Attempt. Our team members were Jim Sano, leader; Chas Macquarie, climbing leader; Todd Bibler, Sandy Stewart, Claude Fiddler, Alex Moad, Shari Kearney, Lucy Smith, Doug Dalquist, Eric Reynolds, Annie Whitehouse, Rennie Jackson,...
Baffin Land—astonishing land of vertical walls, unearthly landscapes, permanent sun. And erotic dreams. Our gang included Alexander Odintsov (continuous leader of crazy project “The Russian Way—Walls of the World”), Valery Rozov (flight leader of ...
Growing up in the heart of the Wrangell Mountains in interior Alaska, I have always had a penchant for vertical escape. My friend John Giraldo also shares this interest, and together we spent our teenage years pushing ourselves on little-known pea...
Mt. Wilson, Rivers of Babylon. On November 26 and 27 Paul McSorley and I climbed a new nine-pitch route on Mt. Wilson, in the bowl between Mixed Monster and Ice Nine. Rivers of Babylon is the central of three ice flows. The climbing is sustained, ...
Api, Winter Ascent and Tragedy. Api (7132 meters, 23,399 feet) is difficult to approach and the climbing route is long and dangerous. It was first climbed in 1960 by Katsutoshi Irabayashi, Gyaltsen Norbu, M. Terashi and Y. Tsuda from the northwest...
Tocllaraju (possible new route); La Esfinge; Huandoy Sur, new route to summit ridge. I went to Peru in early June, headed straight to Huaraz, the “Chamonix of South America,” and spent three months climbing in the Cordillera Blanca.After acclimati...
Tilitso Attempt. Eight Spaniards led by José Luis García wanted to climb the north ridge, the normal route on Tilitso. Very deep fresh snow defeated them. It took seven days to ferry the loads from where the porters had dumped them, refusing to go...
Hydrology, edited by Oscar E. Meinzer. 8vo., 712 pages; illustrations, charts and tables. New York: McGraw Hill, 1943. Price $7.50.A monumental work, to which 22 different scientists have contributed 15 chapters, covering almost every phase of hyd...
The Alaskan MileA winter circumnavigtion of the McKinley and Foraker massifsby Daryl MillerIn 1794, the first observations of the Mount McKinley and Mount Foraker massifs were recorded by George Vancouver. Since then, only a single team has experi...
The Springs of Enchantment—Climbing and Exploration in Patagonia. John Earle. Hodder and Stoughton, London, 1981. 191 pages, black and white illustrations, maps. £7.95.Though written in 1980, The Springs of Enchantment is like a book from the past...
West Face of Mount Huntington, Alpine-Style. Since the climb would be a second ascent, following the Harvard route, one should up the ante: do it alpine-style. Jeff Bevan, Randy McGregor, Bruce Wehman and I flew to the Tokositna Glacier on June 25...
Cochamó, Cerro Capicua, Los Gorilas del Norte and Los Tigres del Norte. Tom Holzhauser, Dominik Angehrn, my brother Michi, and I arrived without plans in Cochamó in early January 2009. After checking the area we decided on Cerro Capicua, which had...
Shivling Attempt. Our expedition was composed of geologists and climbers: Tony Rex, Mike Norry, Paul Metcalf, Nick Groves, Alan Newby, Jill Peacegood, Jon Tinker, Mark Miller, Simon Nathan and me, United Kingdom; Maryrose Fowlie, New Zealand; Patr...
South Ridge of Drizzlepuss. On July 6, 1957 William Cropper and John Dietschy took ten hours to climb the sharp ridge from Leigh Canyon to the summit of Drizzlepuss, the well known pinnacle at the base of the east face of Mount Moran. They avoided...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, CLIMBING ALONE, FATIGUEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 19 about 7:30 a.m., RMNP Dispatch received a cellphone call from a visitor reporting an accident and requesting help on Longs...